Types and purposes of chainsaws. Chainsaw chain pitch value

First hand chainsaws appeared in the 1920s. They were equipped with chains with straight and flat teeth - such a chain system was not very efficient and was very labor-intensive to maintain. In 1947, Joseph Cox proposed a new type of chain. Its shape was L-shaped, due to which it was possible to significantly increase the productivity of chainsaws, and ensured ease of sharpening. As a result, the Cox chain quickly ousted all its competitors from the market. Currently, most chainsaws are equipped with just such chain systems - they have a characteristic crescent-shaped cutting profile and allow you to work effectively with any type of wood.

Saw chain design

The concept proposed by Joseph Cox turned out to be so successful that it has undergone virtually no design changes. By by and large improvements affected only the tool lubrication system, as well as the fight against kickback and vibration.

Any saw chain consists of three types of links:

Cutting

This is the most complex part of the chain set. Its design includes a cut depth limiter and a cutting element with a contour cutting angle.

Presenters

Such links are also called shanks. Through the drive sprocket they transmit rotation from the saw motor to the chain, ensuring its stable position on the bar.

Connecting

Designed to connect cutting and leading elements.

The main ones in the chain system are. They are available left- and right-handed, and their cutting edges protrude beyond the plane of the bar, which ensures free cutting with minimal cutting resistance. Chain teeth (cutters) work on the principle of a plane - the further the upper cutting edge is extended, the larger the cut will be.

Saw chain cutters come in two main types:

Chisel (English: chisel – chisel, cutter)

They have high productivity and provide good speed sawing. The configuration of such cutters provides a smaller contact area with the wood when cutting, thereby reducing the resistance of the latter. The disadvantages of chisel-type chain teeth are their high sensitivity to an abrasive environment, as well as the complexity and labor-intensive sharpening process.

Chipper (eng. сhipper – chop into chips)

The crescent profile of chipper cutters is less efficient due to the increased contact area when cutting. On the other hand, chippers are very easy to maintain, since the rounded corner of the cutter does not react so painfully to errors during sharpening.

Chipper link chains are preferred when cutting contaminated wood.

Main settings

Saw chains are usually distinguished by:

cutting direction (longitudinal and transverse);
dimensions (length and size of the elements of the chain set);
design features;
the order of the cutting links.

Cutting wood along the grain causes more resistance than cutting across it. Due to the demand for both types of sawing, two types of saw chains are produced - longitudinal and transverse. They differ in the angle of attack of the incisors. As a result, when cutting longitudinally, the productivity of the saw increases, and when cutting transversely, the “aggressiveness” of the tool is smoothed out. Well, together with the latter, it reduces the level of vibrations and reduces the load on the engine.

If quality requirements are not high, longitudinal cutting can be performed with a chain saw with a cross chain.

Presented on the market today, they have different dimensions. One of the main parameters of the saw chain is the number of links, i.e. chain length. In addition, chain systems have a certain pitch. It is measured by the distance between three links connected in series, divided by two.

Classification of saw chains by pitch

Depending on the pitch value, saw chains are divided into 5 classes:

0,25 (1/4)’’

Chains installed on one-handed chainsaws have a small pitch. Such a tool is not very powerful, but allows you to perform precise work, incl. in hard-to-reach places.

0.325’’ and 3/8’’

Chains with such pitch values received the most wide application. Over 80% of the instruments produced in the world are equipped with just such chain sets.

0.404'' and 3/4''

Large chain sets are installed on large saws with increased productivity - felling systems, harvesting equipment, etc.

Obviously, what larger sizes chain links, the greater the productivity it has. It should be remembered that the cut will be wider, which means that a larger saw will be needed to overcome the cutting resistance of the wood.

Classification by shank thickness

The thickness of the leading links is the second most important parameter of the chain. It must match the size of the tire groove along which the tire slides during operation. This increases the reliability of the fit and eliminates the risk of it coming off during operation. The movement of the chain itself is smooth, without unnecessary jerks and vibrations.

Global manufacturers of saw chains produce headsets in 5 main sizes:

1.1 mm (miniature chains for mini saws);
1.3 mm (most in demand, because they are installed on);
1.5 mm (installed on saws high power and productivity);
1.6 and 2 mm (chains with thick shanks are installed on professional and industrial saws).

Profile height, cutting depth and saw motor capacity

Depending on the height of the cutting edge located above the plane of the guide bar, saw chains are distinguished into high- and low-profile. The former provide maximum productivity, while the latter have an increased support area for the cutting link, as a result of which they produce thin chips and are safer to operate.

The depth of cut is the size of the gap between the top edge of the cutter and the cut stop, which regulates the thickness of the chips. The most in demand are saw sets with gaps of 0.025’’ and 0.03’’, while chains with a value of this parameter up to 0.07’’ are used as part of machine felling units. It is the cutting depth that determines the performance of the chain set. However, the larger it is, the more the saw will vibrate during operation. In order to balance performance and vibration on a chain with a large pitch, manufacturers install cutting teeth with a minimum depth and vice versa.

The engine size of the saw is directly related to. If the latter is installed on a tool that is too powerful, it will be subject to increased loads and will fail much earlier than expected. Therefore, when purchasing a chain set, you should carefully study specifications the saw itself.

The order of the cutting links

The list of basic parameters of saw chains also includes the order of the cutting links. In the standard design, each cutter has a pair of shanks. In a chain with a semi-pass, every third cutter is replaced by a leading link, and in sets with a full skip - every second. Chains of the second and third types are not produced - they are made by handicraft from factory products.

Headsets with pass and semi-pass are much cheaper than standard ones, but are inferior to them in performance, reliability and ease of use.

Saw chain lubrication system

The reliability and efficiency of the latter directly depends on the quality. In order to ensure normal operation of the tool, manufacturers supply it with oil pump, which supplies oil to the cutting system through special holes. The chain itself is responsible for the uniform distribution of oil - its shanks, passing through the sprocket, capture the lubricant, which, as a result of the movement of the headset, spreads over it and the saw bar. Often, to increase the efficiency of lubrication, special channels are made in the drive links using a milling cutter or drill, and additional recesses are made in the connecting links.

The chain saw's lubrication system works to reduce the destructive effect of friction and, of course, heating. This significantly increases the service life of both the chain set and the tool as a whole. Therefore, the user must control the lubrication process. If, when the chain accelerates, there is no oil trace on the cutting line, this means that the saw is overheating, and the chain itself can quickly become dull, or even burst.

In order to increase the lubrication effect, global manufacturers produce saw oils on an organic basis. They cost a little more, but provide a quarter of the consumption, and when released into the environment, they self-decompose within a few hours.

Modern chainsaws can be equipped with chains and bars with various parameters. However, before purchasing a new headset for a specific model, you should make sure that its lubrication system will cope with its functions during operation.

Vibration and kickback when cutting

Neither the first nor the second can be avoided when working with a chainsaw, but their intensity can be reduced. occurs due to the collision of cutters with wood. At the moment of contact of the cutting edge with the tree, it becomes sandwiched between it and the tire for a split second. Part of the impact energy is transferred to the user’s hands through the headset, drive sprocket and saw body.

To reduce the kickback effect due to vibrations when cutting wood,:

beveled cut stop (ensures smooth movement of the chain due to the smooth sliding of wood from the cutter);
shock-absorbing protrusions on the shanks and connectors (help dampen vibration as it is transmitted to the sprocket);
beveled or raised heel of the cutter (provides subsidence of the chain at the moment of impact, which helps not only dampen vibration, but also reduces wear on the chain set and saw bar).

Thanks to the use of these structural elements in the chain, the risk of injury when the saw bounces due to contact of the toe of the bar with a hard surface is significantly reduced.

Saw chain maintenance: highlights

The saw set, guide bar and drive sprocket are consumable items. Therefore, most important questions When purchasing an instrument and accessories, reliability and durability are considered. They largely depend on the type and intensity of work that the user will perform. No less important role play:

headset lubrication;
running in and tensioning the chain;
sharpening of cutters;
instrument care.

Running in the chain set is done by soaking it in oil for a while, followed by a short run at idle and adjusting the tension. If the chain is not tensioned enough, it will constantly jump off, while overtightening leads to an increase in the load on the chain and its premature wear.

Due to intense use, the cutters of the saw chain become dull. To avoid having to buy a new headset every time, the user can sharpen the cutting elements themselves. In this case, it is necessary to strictly comply with the sharpness of the cutter angles and the height of the limiter with the factory parameters.

In addition, you need to make sure that all cutting links of the chain are sharpened equally. Otherwise, the performance of the tool will decrease or the vibration and load on the saw motor will increase. Another important point when working with a chainsaw is monitoring the integrity of the chain. If the slightest cracks, abrasions or damage occur, it should be replaced. In conclusion, we note that only competent selection, as well as timely and proper care

for the tool and accessories can ensure normal performance, durability, reliability and, of course, the safety of the chainsaw.

Chainsaw service, video

If you can't decide on consumables for your chainsaw, send a request using the form below. Our specialists will select everything you need and contact you.

If you want to purchase a saw chain or guide bar for an electric or chainsaw, but don’t know which saw set will fit your saw model, fill out the form with the parameters you know. Our technical specialist will select consumables for your saw and contact you.

To choose a chain for a chainsaw, you need to know three parameters:

Chain pitch;
Chain thickness (drive link thickness);
Chain length (number of drive links).

Knowing these three parameters, you can easily select a chain for a saw, pole saw or harvester head.

1. Chain pitch

Chain pitch is usually denoted in inches; it is calculated as follows: measure the distance between the nearest drive links of the chain, or the distance between the three closest rivets of the chain (from the center of the rivet), divide by 2 and convert to inches (1 inch = 25.4 mm).

The chain pitch should always match the pitch of the saw drive sprocket and the driven bar sprocket.

Chain with a pitch of 0.25" aka 1/4". The distance between the three rivets (drive links) is 12.7 mm ÷ 2 = 6.35 mm, converted to inches (÷ 25.4) in inches this is 0.25" (more often referred to as 1/4").
0.325" pitch chain. The distance between the three rivets (drive links) is 16.5 mm ÷ 2 = 8.25 mm converted to inches (÷ 25.4) in inches this is 0.325".
Chain with a pitch of 0.375" aka 3/8". The distance between the three rivets 19 mm ÷ 2 = 9.5 mm is converted into inches (÷ 25.4) in inches this is 0.375" (usually denoted as 3/8" so as not to be confused with 0.325").
0.404" pitch chain. The distance between the three rivets is 20.5 mm ÷ 2 = 10.25 mm, converted to inches (÷ 25.4) in inches this is 0.404".
Chain with 3/4" pitch. The distance between the three rivets 38.1 mm ÷ 2 = 19.05 mm is converted into inches (÷ 25.4) in inches this is 0.75" (usually denoted as 3/4").

2. Thickness

Chain thickness is the thickness of the drive link (can be measured with a caliper). This dimension must always match the thickness of the guide bar groove.

In total, for electric and gasoline saws, as well as harvesters, there are 6 sizes that determine the thickness of the drive link:

1.1 mm (0.043”);
1.3 mm (0.05”);
1.5 mm (0.058”);
1.6 mm (0.063”);
2.0 mm (0.08”);
3.1 mm (0.122”).

3. The third main parameter when selecting a chain: Chain length (Number of drive links).

The length of the chain is determined by counting the number of drive (internal) chain links. Important:

The cutting links do not determine the length of the chain (don't count them).
The length of the guide bar does not determine the exact length of the chain (for example, on a saw with a 16" (40 cm) bar, a chain with a length of 55, or 56, or 57 links can be installed, depending on the chain tensioning mechanism of the particular saw model).
A chain with a length of approximately 55-57 links will not suit you; only a certain size recommended by the saw manufacturer will do.

What is the bar length on my chainsaw?

The length of the cutting part of the tire differs from its overall length. The length of the bar is usually considered to be the cutting length (working part) - this is the distance from the front of the saw to the rounded tip of the nose of the bar. This measurement is rounded to the nearest inches or centimeters. An inch is denoted as " equals 2.54 cm.

For example, the length of the cutting part of the bar for a Stihl MS180 chainsaw is 40 cm. 40 cm ÷ 2.54 = 15.7 inches. Rounds to 16" (inches).

For the Shtil MS180 chainsaw, a 16-inch (40 centimeter) Oregon tire is suitable, article number 160SDEA074.

How to choose a tire for a chainsaw?

Even with the most careful use of a chainsaw, the owner sooner or later faces the need to replace the saw chain. The range is represented by several types, differing in pitch, configuration of cutting links and other indicators. The best chain for a chainsaw is the model recommended by the instructions for use.

The guide bar and chain are replaceable equipment, so owners of budget chainsaws have the opportunity to choose a more wear-resistant and durable saw set.

Photo: chainsaw chain

The desire to increase the performance of the saw by installing a longer headset can only be realized if the engine has sufficient reserve power and torque.

It is best to independently select a chain for a chainsaw that is optimal in terms of cost and operating parameters after consulting with an experienced specialist. The wrong choice of headset components can reduce the performance of the chainsaw or initiate its premature failure.

The quality of budget and branded chains differs significantly. Many owners of cheap household chainsaws prefer to operate their equipment with more advanced saw sets from the leading brands Shtil, Husqvarna and Oregon. The unofficial rating recorded an increase in consumer demand for similar products brands Hammer and PowerSharp.

The standard length of a household saw bar with a power of 2-2.5 hp. is 40-45 cm. The size of high-performance professional class analogues reaches 70 cm.

The higher price level of branded tires and chains is compensated by the high quality of complex sawing work, increased service life, and stable performance characteristics throughout the service life assigned by the manufacturer.

Properties of wear-resistant chains for general and special purposes

The types of household and professional grade chains intended for working with wood differ in the quality of the material, service life and cost. The diamond chain, designed for working on concrete and unique in its wear resistance, belongs to the category of special rescue equipment.

One option may be a wear-resistant carbide chain. The service life between repairs of such a product is an order of magnitude higher, but to sharpen it you need special equipment, allowing you to sharpen cutting links at different angles, respectively for standard transverse and for rip sawing.

The carbide chain is designed for productive sawing of hardwood and light building blocks. It should be borne in mind that when working on aerated concrete or foam concrete, the service life of a saw set, even the most prestigious brand, is reduced by 2-3 times.

Saw chain pitch characteristics

The selected chain must match the length of the guide bar and its design. One of the main parameters for selecting a chain is its pitch, which is traditionally measured in inches.

The cutting sets of household chainsaws use smooth-running and safe-to-use 3/8-inch chains; the metric standard is 0.325 mm.

Analogues with an increased pitch of 0.404″ type are designed to complete powerful and productive chainsaws professional level, therefore they are practically not used in household chainsaw equipment.

Self-installation headsets with increased pitch must be consistent with the type and traction characteristics of the power unit.

Shank parameters

No less important condition the right choice saw chain is the thickness of its shank, which varies in the range from 1.1 to 2 mm. In the inch standard, shanks are available in sizes 0.043/ 0.04/ 0.05/ 0.058/ 0.063 and 0.08 inches, respectively.

Chains with a minimum thickness are used in light, small-cube, budget-level models. In household and semi-professional chainsaws, analogues resistant to constant and variable loads, with a thickness of 1.3 to 1.6 mm, are in greater demand. Professional chainsaw equipment is equipped with reinforced chains with 2 mm shanks.

Design features

In a medium and high class chain, each cutting link is equipped with two shanks, which inevitably affects its cost. Owners of their own chainsaws are offered more affordable models of through-pass or semi-through type.

In the first case additional elements the chains are located directly after the cutting link. In the second option, connecting elements are mounted after every second pair.

In standard, through and semi-through chains, the number of saw links is 50, 40 and 37.5 percent, respectively. Simplification of the design of cheap products is inevitably accompanied by an increase in the load on the saw links, the need for frequent sharpening and a reduction in its service life.

Length

This chain indicator is determined by the number of links. Leading manufacturers indicate the chain length in inches or the number of links in the accompanying documentation. When purchasing any model yourself, it is recommended to know both parameters.

Professional grade chain design features

The offered range can be divided into chains with chisel and chipper cutting link configurations. In the first case, the sectional link is similar to the number 7. This profile provides increased productivity for sawing work of increased complexity.

A significant disadvantage of the chisel “seven” is its complexity manual sharpening, since even a slight deviation from a given angle, the main advantages of the seven profile are canceled.

The chipper links are crescent shaped. The increased contact area with the wood being cut creates additional loads on the engine. On the positive side, the design of chipper circuits is valued for its stability at high level contamination and less stringent requirements for precision finishing of cutting edges.

Types of materials

Standard saw chains are made from high-quality chromium-nickel steel. For working with dense and frozen wood, chains with carbide links are recommended. A significant disadvantage of such models is the increased cost and the need to use special sharpening equipment with corundum attachments.

Cutting depth and chain profile height

Owners of professional models who sharpen chains by hand at home should know these parameters. The cutting depth is adjusted by decreasing the stop height of each cutting link.

The parameters of the low-profile and high-profile chain are 0.025 and 0.03 inches, respectively. Knowledge of profile types is necessary to correctly select the height of the limiters.

Chain models for crosscutting and longitudinal sawing

The main range of saw chains with a sharpening angle of cutting links of 25-35° is intended for standard transverse cutting of wood. Models for longitudinal sawing on the domestic market are present in minimum quantity.

If necessary, the deficiency problem can simply be solved by changing the sharpening angle of standard chains to 5-15°. The tire in this version is used without changing the design.

All information provided is valid for Chinese chainsaws and their components. The majority of the Chinese chainsaw range is made up of more or less successful copies of leading European developers, so all standards are almost identical.

How does the need to sharpen a chain manifest itself?

Blunt saw chain teeth significantly increase cutting time. The malfunction is manifested by increased vibration, reverse shocks when the headset enters the cut, ejection of small chips and a distinct smell of burnt wood.

Using a manual sharpening device mounted on the headset, cylindrical and flat files, the cutting edge of the saw links is restored without removing the chain from the bar. A more advanced and productive way is to fine-tune the chain in a specialized workshop.

gives a significant saving in time, guarantees the same angle on all cutting elements of the chain. User reviews for automated sharpening are mostly positive. In a negative sense, a patterned finishing of each saw link is noted, without taking into account its wear and other individual characteristics.

Pro recommendations for operation and maintenance of saw chains

A significant portion of the headsets in use do not fully exhaust the assigned resource.

The main reasons for forced wear:

low efficiency of the lubrication system;
high degree of wear on the drive sprocket;
excessive saw chain tension;
use of substandard and surrogate chain oils.

Experts advise using a set of several chains, changing them as necessary. This option can take advantage of more productive mechanized sharpening.

Worn and damaged chains should be promptly discarded. Even with an emergency stop brake and a safety device, the operation of worn-out parts is characterized by an increased risk of injury.

How to eliminate the risks of buying a counterfeit chain?

On the domestic market there is a small but stable range of counterfeit chainsaw parts and component materials from Asia, mostly made in China.

With every desire to meet the European level of quality, technical and operational properties Chinese copies are far from perfect, since they exhaust their service life by about 50-70%.

This disadvantage is compensated to a certain extent by lower cost. On the other hand, practice shows that only branded products guarantee long-term and trouble-free operation of chainsaw equipment.

Purchasing a part from a licensed or branded store will help you avoid the risks of purchasing a Chinese counterfeit designed as a branded product.

The choice of gasoline saws is determined by several criteria. One of them is the pitch of the chainsaw chain. This parameter determines the equipment’s capabilities, the speed of sawing materials and must correspond to the engine power; only in this case will it be possible to extend the life of the tool and reduce the specific consumption of fuel and lubricants.

The concept of a step and its meaning

Chain pitch refers to the distance between any three rivets. In saw chains, this length characterizes the distance between the two cutting teeth relative to each other. The pitch size is also equal to the length between the vertices of two adjacent chain shanks (guide elements that fit into the groove of the bar). In order to correctly determine the chain pitch of a chainsaw, measure the distance between the axes of three rivets in a row.

There is a well-founded pattern that states that the greater the distance between the cutting teeth of the chain, the deeper they go into the material being cut. By increasing the pitch of the chainsaw chain, you can increase its performance. In this case, the force for rotating the drive sprocket changes accordingly. You need to understand that the higher the step, the more power need to be applied to pull it while sawing the material, and the greater the engine power should be.

Modern manufacturers of gasoline saws use three main types of sawing chains with the following pitch values, measured in inches:

0.325;
0.375 (marking 3/8 is used in classification);
0.404.

The quality and accuracy of the cut created in the material depends on the chain pitch. If the quality of cutting when working with a chainsaw is not of global importance, then the accuracy of the cut is sometimes important when dissolving logs or boards; for this, you need to take into account the dependence of the saw pitch on dissolving the wood according to given markings.

The rule for selecting a chain indicates that the pitch between the teeth is directly proportional to the performance and power reserve of the motor and inversely proportional to the accuracy of the cut being created.

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Correspondence between engine power and the distance between the cutting teeth of the chainsaw chain

Based on data obtained experimentally, it is recommended to select a chainsaw by considering the ratio of drive power and the distance between the cutting edges. It is known that the higher the pitch, the more force must be applied to rotate the drive sprocket and the greater must be the maximum torque developed by a gasoline engine.

To choose the right the desired configuration tool, it is necessary to use the minimum power data for each of the three typical circuit steps.

Critical power indicators gasoline engines, rotating the drive:

step 0.325” - power of at least 1.8 hp. (1.47 kW);
step 3/8” - power of at least 3 hp. (2.21 kW);
step 0.404” - power of at least 4.5 hp. (3.31 kW).

If the power of the driving motor is less than the specified values, then during the cutting process the following phenomena are possible: jamming of the chain in the tree, a decrease in the rotation speed of the drive, leading to overheating of the motor, increased cutting time and increased operating costs for fuel.

The use of powerful motors with a small pitch chain is not advisable, as this will also increase the time for dissolution and increase fuel costs. However, this combination is allowed if there is a need to perform precise work with wood.

The indicated minimum values of the drive characteristics indicate the ability of the equipment to operate reliably, but do not indicate the time of its continuous use in a professional environment. Rather, these values are given as recommendations for occasional work or for operating conditions where the tool is used for long periods of time. For long-term use of the equipment, which involves professional mode, the following technical data are required:

step 0.325” - power 2.5 hp (1.84 kW);
3/8” pitch – 4 hp power. (2.94 kW);
pitch 0.404” - power 6 hp. (4.41 kW).

The choice of tool should not be justified by the desire to have the highest possible chain pitch, as this entails the presence of a powerful motor and a long bar, which significantly makes the saw heavier.

And if, for example, it will be used occasionally or for summer cottage work, then such a choice is inappropriate.

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Dependence of pitch on additional characteristics of saw chains

During the movement of the chain and cutting wood, very high loads are applied to it; therefore, an important characteristic is the thickness of the link element that fits into the groove of the bar and slides in it. This value also shows the thickness of the fastening elements of the links. You can measure it with a regular caliper.

Typical guide element thicknesses:

1.1 mm;
1.3 mm;
1.5 mm;
1.6 mm;
2.0 mm.

Thicknesses of 1.1 and 1.3 mm are used for the manufacture of entry-level chains intended for minor work. Most often, the step length at these values is 0.325”, which implies a gentle regime and low loads.

The value of 1.5 mm is the most common on the market of chainsaws and accessories; this value is enough to ensure safe work at 3/8" pitches. However given value will always indicate that the chain is not intended for professional activities.

The guides, which have thicknesses of 1.6 and 2.0”, are designed to guide the most complex work, that is, they allow the use of equipment in shifts. At the same time, you need to know that these two values are a certain classifier, indicating that the metal for the manufacture of these chains is smelted from special grades of steel, that is, increased strength is built into the structure.

All produced chains may differ in cutting depth. It is characterized by the height of the cutting tooth (profile). The height is measured between the top flange of the cutting edge and the stop (all on one segment). There are low profile and high profile chain products.

The higher the profile, the higher the entry into the wood and, accordingly, the cutting speed. The height of the profile affects the occurrence of vibrations, which can cause increased wear of the drive or difficulty holding the tool in the hands; the higher the cutting part, the stronger the vibrations will be. Also, a high-profile chain requires increased engine power.

Household chainsaws always have a low profile chain. Professional devices combine different variants, but they always adhere to the fact that if the chain has a large pitch, then its profile is low, and if the pitch is 0.325, the profile is made high.

Such variations create the opportunity to increase the cutting speed not by increments, but by the profile height (cut depth). However, most professional tools for felling trees focus on increasing the pitch rather than the profile height, arguing that the chainsaw is more controllable in this version.

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Some important points when choosing chains or chainsaws

There are other indicators that influence the performance of the tool and the specifics of the work.

geometry of the cutting tooth (profile);
number of cutting links;
type of sharpening of the cutting edge of the link.

There are two types of cutting profile: chisel and chipper. The first option has a straight working surface and is more productive. The second type has a sickle shape and reduced productivity. A chipper chain is easier to maintain because it is easier to sharpen and strict adherence to sharpening angles is not required. Chisel options are most often used in 3/8 and 0.404” pitches.

The number of cutting teeth is always determined by their ratio to the number of guides included in the saw bar. That is, the link with the cutting part has two guide links. If such a combination is not observed, this means that the chain is of questionable manufacture.

The type of sharpening of cutting profiles is regulated by the type of future work. Typically, a classic chainsaw is used for cross cuts of wood and extremely rarely for longitudinal cuts. In rare cases, you come across chains with cutting links oriented for longitudinal cuts.

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When purchasing a tool, you need to clearly understand the scope of its use and, depending on this, determine the required chain pitch.

Chain links: a - cutting or cutter, b - lock.

Conditional types of use of chainsaws for private users:

pruning branches in the garden, simple garden work;
individual construction, firewood collection, occasional tree felling;
frequent use (implying work for hire), procurement of very large volumes of firewood, operation in your own workshop.

In the first option, a chainsaw with a chain with a small pitch (0.325”) is recommended. This will allow you to get a lightweight and maneuverable tool that will allow you to easily trim branches, including climbing ladders and tree branches. This equipment makes it possible to carry out simple dissolution of wood, and occasionally it is possible to carry out felling without big trees.

The second option involves choosing a saw with a pitch of 3/8” and a guide link thickness of at least 1.5 mm. Such saws allow you to easily carry out the entire range of maintenance work on a site, a small workshop, and prepare a supply of firewood for the winter.

The third option suggests the use of 3/8 and 0.404” chains paired with a powerful motor, since the list of work performed is intended only for professional tools, and it is important to take into account the thickness of the guide link, it should be 1.6 or 2.0 mm. The steel for the manufacture of such chains is made taking into account possible overheating when dissolving wood without losing the hardness of the cutting edges of the links.

Interchangeability of chains is allowed only for the pitch size specified by the manufacturer. This is explained by the number of teeth of the drive sprocket, which is calculated only for a certain distance between the links. The chainsaw bar has a groove for a certain thickness of the guides; this should be taken into account when changing the chain.

Replacing the drive sprocket with a larger pitch is not recommended due to the mismatch between power and loads when dissolving wood. A weak motor will not develop required power for pulling cutting links through wood, which will lead to jamming or failure of the drive and clutch of the device.

The most universal chain has a pitch of 3/8”, this allows for multilateral use, combined with a high cutting speed and a fairly accurate cut line, and satisfactory ripping of wood fibers.

Today we would like to talk about how to choose the right bar and chain for chainsaws (electric saws). This article will be useful for beginners who have just bought a chainsaw and do not know the differences between tires and chains, how to choose a tire and chain, what to look for, as well as for experienced users who use a chainsaw in their work at a semi-professional and professional level .

When buying a chainsaw, most likely the seller asked you questions related to the purchase of a chainsaw and asked about how often and what you are going to cut. Depending on this, the buyer is offered appropriate models. In this article we will not touch on the choice of the chainsaw itself, but will concentrate on the issue of choosing an additional or main bar and chain.

Classes of chainsaws and electric saws

There are 3 classes of chainsaws: amateur, semi-professional, professional.

Amateur saws, as a rule, are designed for periodic work, have low power (up to 2 kW), low weight, and low vibration. This is the most common group and chainsaws from this group are most often purchased by summer residents and owners of private houses. Chainsaws from this class allow you to trim tree branches, prepare firewood, and make small renovation work. Even a not very experienced user can operate and use such a saw.

Semi-professional saws have more power (from 2kW) and are designed for longer work in construction. The weight of such a saw is much greater than that of an amateur saw. Such chainsaws are used at the stage of new construction for work related to wood: preparing rafters, cutting floor boards, cladding a house with timber and other work. Unfortunately, such saws are also not designed for continuous operation for 6-8 hours or more.

Professional saws are used on an industrial scale in enterprises that fell and chop trees around the clock. Such saws allow you to work for a long time, and in the most difficult places: hardwood, thick and knotty trees. The power of such a saw can reach up to 6 kW. The professional saw weighs more than 6 kg, vibrates and makes noise during operation, and is also quite difficult to control.

When purchasing a chainsaw, a bar and chain are included. Pay attention to the characteristics of the bar and chain that come with the kit. These parameters will allow you to quickly find, choose chain and bar for chainsaw, and also buy them with minimal waste of time.

Choosing a tire for a chainsaw (electric saw)

One of the tire parameters is its size. As a rule, tire size is indicated in inches, sometimes in centimeters. We recommend using the size in inches. The most commonly used tire sizes are 11″, 12″, 13″, 14″, 15″, 16″, 18″, 20″, 21″, 22″.

A smaller tire size is used for simpler jobs. For example, a chainsaw with an 11-13-inch tire installed is used as a lopper, and is also used for cutting small, thin boards. This tire is small and allows you to accelerate the chain at high speed, which allows you to carry out work quickly. Most used and one size fits all tires 14-16 inches. Such tires allow you to both prepare firewood and use a chainsaw (power saw) as a lopper. Tires 18 - 22″ are used for cutting thick trees when preparing firewood. Such tires are used in semi-professional, professional and powerful saws.

Your saw's manual should tell you the bar sizes you can use. It is not recommended to install a tire longer than the manufacturer specifies, as this will affect engine speed. The longer the tire, the more power the engine spends on rotating the crankshaft to accelerate the chain, and this affects engine wear. This is the most important rule to follow.

At choosing a tire for a chainsaw It is worth paying attention to the shape of the tire itself.

For amateur saws used narrow and flat (low profile) tires. These tires do not kick back and are very safe, which novice users will appreciate. There are also lightweight tires for a chainsaw. These tires have a reduced weight, which allows you to work and control the chainsaw in a shed, as well as on the roof of a house. The lightweight saw bar consists of 2 steel plates, which are bonded inside with polyamide.

There is another group of saw bars - with replaceable heads. This is necessary for chainsaws working in intensive mode when felling forests, when the wear rate of the mechanisms increases. For domestic needs, this form of tire is not needed.

One of important parameters saw bar is its shank (fastening). Each manufacturer has its own tire mount. Therefore, sometimes a bar from one saw may not fit another.

Since the bar is directly connected to the chain that is installed on it, it is necessary to take into account the chain pitch. You will find out what it is below.

Choosing a chain for a chainsaw (electric saw)

In order to choose a chain for a chainsaw, you need to know the following parameters (they intersect with the parameters of the saw bar).

Chain size must match your tire size. If you bought a chain smaller than your tire, you simply won’t install it. If you bought a chain that is larger than your saw bar, the chain will not install correctly and will not stretch over your saw bar. Both options lead to the inability to work with a chainsaw. The chain size is indicated in inches and can be 10″, 12″, 13″, 14″, 15″, 16″, 18″ and higher.

Chain pitch(in the figure this is the distance “a”) measured in inches and marked 0.325″, 0.375″ and 0.404″. In order not to confuse similar numbers, a chain pitch of 0.375″ is most often referred to as 3/8. Why is that? If we divide 3 by 8 we get 0.375. You need to understand that the higher the chain pitch, the more professional and powerful the saw. The most used and popular chain pitch is 0.325″. This chain pitch is used in amateur and semi-professional saws. If you are using the saw for cutting limbs and felling thin trees or construction work, then a chain pitch of 0.325" would be more appropriate. A chain with this pitch will make your work smoother, more convenient and will not “tear” the wood when you start cutting. The 3/8 pitch chain is used for felling thin trees and for cutting medium-thick wood. And the chain pitch of 0.404″ is used only in professional saws and we will not talk about it in this material, because it is not very popular and our readers will probably not encounter it.

Shank thickness saw chain (drive link thickness) is one of the important parameters of the chain. The drive links are designed for different tires, so pay attention to this parameter. Shank thicknesses are available in the following sizes: 1.1 mm, 1.3 mm, 1.5 mm, 1.6 mm and 2 mm (0.043”, 0.05”, 0.058”, 0.063” and 0.08” respectively) . A 1.1 mm chain is used in small saws and it is impossible to do serious work with such a chain. A chain with a drive link thickness of 1.3 mm - 1.6 mm can withstand heavy loads. The chain is quite popular and is used on amateur and semi-professional saws. If the shank thickness is 2 mm, then we can immediately say that the chain is used in professional saws. The conclusion can be drawn as follows: the greater the thickness of the drive link, and accordingly, the wider the groove of the chainsaw bar, the higher the quality of the chain and the more capable it can withstand heavy loads.

Number of chain links(chain tails) is a parameter by which the length of the chain can be determined. That is, when choosing, you can name the number of links or the size of the chain in inches. Some chain manufacturers indicate in the product article exactly the number of links, and not the length of the chain. Therefore, it is better if you know both parameters of the saw chain when purchasing.

The following characteristics are used to select a saw chain for a professional saw. Those who use household and semi-professional saws may not read our material further. We will touch on the remaining parameters briefly, without going into depth.

Types of cutting links There are different ones, we will touch on the main ones - chisel (in the picture on the left) and chipper (in the picture on the right). In the figure we see what shape the chisel profile has. In cross-section, this profile resembles the number seven. People call this type “seven”. It is believed that this profile is intended for fast and quality work saw. The point is that everything working surface strictly straight and cuts evenly into the wood. This type of link is used mainly on professional saws. However, it also has disadvantages. For example, sharpening such a chain is quite difficult, because even with a slight deviation from the correct angle, the work completely loses all the advantage of the chisel. The chipper type in cross-section is very similar to the shape of a sickle, which is why this profile called "sickle type" and "sickle". The contact area of such a link is larger, which entails higher loads and worsens cutting characteristics. However, the chipper type of link tolerates dirt much more easily, and when sharpening, you do not need to be too precise in the angles.

It is very important to know the material from which the cutting links of the saw chain are made. Mainly for saw chains, high-alloy chromium-nickel steel is used in the manufacture of cutting teeth. Therefore, when purchasing a new chain, it is necessary to visually check the quality of the cutting elements and their sharpening. But to use the tool when processing particularly hard, frozen or heavily contaminated materials, there is a need to harden the teeth. For such purposes, options are offered, on the teeth of which special carbide brazing is made. They have increased wear resistance. The presence of soldering marks is marked on the surface of each cutting tooth.

Depth of cut and chain profile height. Depth of cut is the height of the profile, which indicates the depth of cut of the saw (it is worth adding that the height dimension also plays a role, but the depth of cut is main parameter). The higher the profile, the deeper the chain “reaches”, which means higher performance. The smaller the profile, the thinner the chips are removed, that is, the chain does not bite deeply into the wood. This depth can be adjusted by grinding down the stops located at each cutter, but in the new chain these dimensions already have a certain type. There are two types of profile: 0.025" (0.635 mm) - low profile chain and 0.03" (0.762 mm) - high profile chain. This information should also be specified in the characteristics of the saw (often the brands of chains that are suitable are simply indicated, and they already correspond to the required size). There is not much choice here, this information is given more for information purposes. After all, when sharpening chains yourself, you need to know the type of profile in order to bring them into the appropriate form when sharpening the limiters. But at their core, both types are divided into profiles of professional and amateur chainsaws. True, there are nuances here too. Professional chainsaws do not always have high-profile chains, but household ones are always equipped with low-profile options. And if everything is clear with low-profile types, then high-profile requires clarification. After all, it makes the chain highly productive, which means it increases the vibration and aggressiveness of the chain, which has already been mentioned. And strong vibration will not allow you to work with the saw for long hours at the logging site. This is where the developers did a trick; to maintain low aggressiveness, they also take into account the chain pitch. After all, if the step is large (and this entails vibration) and the profile is high (this also increases vibration), then in the end the saw, although it will cut quickly, will become simply inconvenient for long work. And this balance is maintained by choosing not the two most effective parameters, but by alternating them. That is, if the step is large, they give a low profile, if the step is smaller, they can make a high profile. This balancing allows the chainsaw to work less aggressively and efficiently at the same time. But it’s difficult to say which chain is better (with a large profile and a small pitch or a small profile and a maximum pitch), it all depends on the wood, working conditions and for each case everything is individual, you just need to try. Let us also note that on highly professional saws when felling large trees, chains with large pitches and a high profile are used, since speed is extremely important here. It happens that the profile is produced even larger than the stated one, even 0.07” (1.778 mm), but this is extremely rare and is often used on machine units for felling. In general, this entire point can be attributed to the professional use of serious chainsaws. For the average user, this parameter is important only in one case, when sharpening a saw at home. You can cut depth limiters only with verbal knowledge, otherwise your household chainsaw will not cut at all and will definitely get tired from high loads.

Longitudinal and transverse cutting type. The longitudinal type chain is designed for cutting wood along the grain, and the transverse type chain is intended for cutting across. Craftsmen understand that the difference in the resistance of wood in the two cases is different and to work across it, you don’t need sharp corner, but for working along lengths, the tools are sharpened very sharply. For chain saws, these parameters are: 25-35 degrees - for cross cutting; 5-15 degrees – for longitudinal cutting. These characteristics can be read on the chain and seen even with the naked eye on the cutting teeth themselves. By the way, each tree also likes different angles, so it’s worth understanding these parameters separately if you work with wood professionally.

Everything is banal, chainsaws are often used for cross cut. If you cut along, this is most often done circular saw, which is more effective for this. And that is why the demand for longitudinal type chains is so scanty that the market is not particularly involved in their development. Therefore, even finding a longitudinal type chain on the market is very, very difficult. Most people choose the transverse type, and it is for these reasons that we discarded it to the very, very end. And this was the last parameter for classifying chains for chainsaws.

For a household chainsaw (not a professional one), this approach will be relevant, but only professionals should re-read everything written again. So, you should start choosing a chain for a chainsaw by reading the instructions. If it is not there, we look for the model of our saw on the Internet and find all the important characteristics there. And to go buy a chain for your household tool, just write down the following: the brand of chainsaw (to buy a chain from the same manufacturer), the number of driving links (namely leading, not cutting), the width of the bar groove (or the width of the driving link, tail) and the length of the bar (if we have the number of leading links, this can be discarded). Knowing all these parameters, we will definitely buy the right chain. If you only know the brand, you can get hurt. After all, there are technological features of even well-known brands, where for some reason the sprocket, bar and chain are replaced with similar but distinguishable types. And it is especially important to know all the indicated numbers, if our saw is cheap, domestically produced or from China (perhaps a counterfeit brand), here it will not be difficult to buy a completely different chain, we see for ourselves that there are a lot of characteristics. Be careful! And let professionals be sure to re-read everything that has been said several more times. Having delved into the essence, everyone will learn to understand everything stated as correctly as possible, which in the future will certainly help even good chainsaw make it even more efficient and reliable.

Sequence of chain cutting links

If you look at any standard saw chain, there will always be two tails (two driving links) per cutting link. This is a standard and is followed by all chainsaw chain manufacturers. However, there are chains on the market with fewer cutting links, these are the so-called semi-skip and skip chains. In the first case, another additional connecting link is inserted into every second pair of cutting teeth. In the second case, an additional link is installed between each cutting tooth. As a result, a standard chain with 64 driving links (tail) should have 32 cutting teeth, that is, 50%. But in the case of a half-skip, we will already get 40% of the working teeth, and with a skip – 37.5%. Who needs such chains? In a chain, only the cutting teeth are valued; they are made using special technology, are sprayed, and are much more expensive than connecting links. If it is not possible to make the chain shorter, then by skipping the cutting elements you can significantly reduce the cost of the chain itself.

As a result, you can sell it cheaper and at the same time make money from it. But such a chain is only negative; it makes the saw more aggressive, reduces its performance and even increases wear and tear of both the entire saw set and the chainsaw itself. It is not recommended to buy such a chain; its cheapness does not at all justify further repairs and operational efficiency. In addition, no factory makes such chains; everything is made at home from factory chains (at best), so it is clear that the build quality and durability of the chain itself is reduced several times. And when buying a chain on the market, we carefully study the order of the links so as not to accidentally ruin your new device in such a popular way.

When to buy a new chainsaw chain and bar

The simplest and most basic criterion that determines chain wear is its stretching. If you cannot tension it using the tension adjustment screw on the saw, you will need to replace it. However, installing a new chain on an old worn sprocket and bar will cause even more wear. It is known that the chain wears out 2-3 times faster than the tire and sprocket, so to increase durability it is worth resorting to a trick. For example, you have new chainsaw, you are going to work with it a lot and for a long time (if a saw is bought for five-minute work once a year, then one chain will be enough for a lifetime). And in this case, for efficiency, we buy three chains at once (possibly with different pitches or with different types relative to the strength of the cutting teeth, if you have a professional tool). Then, after several hours of working with one chain, we replace it with another and constantly alternate the entire set (and do not forget to turn the tire over, it also requires uniform wear). As a result, all three chains will gradually stretch and grind down simultaneously with the tire and sprocket, and after tension is impossible, you can safely change all the chains, the tire, and the drive sprocket. Believe me, with this approach the gain in durability will be an order of magnitude higher than installing a new second chain on an already worn tire. In addition, a chain stretched almost to the limit will behave more calmly and efficiently than a new one. old tire and an asterisk.