A private house is decorated inside with clapboard. Do-it-yourself finishing of a brick house with clapboard inside

Wooden lining (eurolining), which was replaced by siding and plastic panels, is gradually regaining its position. More and more users prefer this beautiful, natural and time-tested material.

Naturally, many construction teams offer installation services for wooden lining (euro lining). But not everyone has the money to pay for third-party work, or simply wants, if not to build a house, then at least to do the external or internal cladding of the walls on their own. Therefore, below is material aimed at those who are interested in self-installation clapboards made of wood.

How to cover a house with clapboards with your own hands

At first glance, it may seem that finishing walls and ceilings with clapboard is a simple and not time-consuming process. Paradoxical as it may seem, this is how it is. The work will require minimal skills in working with tools, wood and step-by-step instruction for the installation of wooden lining.

Step 1 – Choosing wooden lining

To choose the right wooden lining for wall decoration, you need to take into account the influence of such factors:

Purpose of the premises. Depending on the purpose of the room, the requirements for the lining will differ.

for a sauna you need elite-class eurolining, preferably coniferous;

For exterior finishing Any lining will do, the main thing is to ensure that it is properly protected from all possible damage;

for interior spaces, the main requirement is environmental friendliness of the material.

Methods of fastening wooden lining. They will have a key influence on the calculation of materials for installation. There are several ways:

Vertical clapboard paneling. The most common method. Two factors contributed to this. Firstly, the vertical fastening reliably protects the groove-ridge from water flowing in. Secondly, it allows you to visually raise the height of the ceilings of the room.

Note: vertical installation of the lining is most optimal for a steam room, as it allows condensate to flow down.

Sheathing with clapboard horizontally. The easiest way. Finishing with clapboard horizontally allows you to hide possible flaws on the surface of the walls. Horizontal fastening is more often used for exterior finishing, and the installation of the lining is carried out with the groove down to avoid water leakage.

Trimmed with clapboard diagonally. A very wasteful method in terms of material consumption. But it is beneficial when decorating broken surfaces, for example, attic walls.

Herringbone clapboard paneling. Quite labor-intensive, requiring serious calculations, but at the same time the most economical way installation of lining, allowing the use of small pieces of lining;

Combined laying of lining. Allows you to create geometric patterns from planks different lengths, mounted at different angles. However, such fastening requires certain skills and is characterized by a high consumption of material in the form of scraps. And also complex from the point of view of the frame structure.

Note. Not all lining profiles allow you to choose the installation method. For example, a block house or an American one is mounted only horizontally. Therefore, when choosing a installation method, take into account the configuration of the lamella.

You can also combine horizontal and vertical wall cladding with clapboard.

Wood type. For the manufacture of lining, both coniferous and deciduous wood are used. The choice depends on the purpose of the room, for example, coniferous species are more resistant to moisture, and deciduous species are more durable. And also on the cost of the material, the desired color and texture.

Type of wooden lining. The type of lining can be determined “by eye” knowing the main parameters that determine it. These include: the presence of knots, wormholes, chips, darkening, etc. The highest quality is the “extra” or “elite” variety, which is reflected in its cost. This is followed by varieties 1 (A), 2 (B), 3 (AB).

Note. The presence of knots, especially dead ones (capable of falling out), in addition to the visual effect, reduces the ability of wood to retain heat.

Lining dimensions. Due to the fact that the cost of lining is usually indicated per square meter, its dimensions will be important.

thickness of the lining. For external work you need to take a thicker board (20-25 mm), for internal work 10-16 mm will be enough;

width of the lining. Doesn't have a decisive meaning. But users note that for small room You should choose a narrow board. Conversely, a narrow board on a large surface will “ripple” in the eyes;

length of the lining. Maximum length paleney – 6,000 mm. You need to choose a length that will have the least amount of joints and waste. In addition, it is worth considering the problem of large-sized transportation.

Lining type(determined by the appearance of the lamella):

ordinary lining (classic, calm, standard). It does not have primary processing and has a short comb (up to 5 mm), which can create difficulties for beginners when installing it themselves;

eurolining. Has more precise geometric parameters due to strict requirements for production, packaging and storage. Features an elongated comb (up to 8 mm);

block house. Imitates rounded timber, more common in exterior decoration;

American. The difference between this lining is the absence of a tongue-and-groove system. It can only be mounted horizontally.

Step 2 - Calculation of wooden lining

When purchasing lining, you need to know how much material is required. The price of wooden lining is usually indicated in m2, less often in m3. But, a simple, mathematical calculation in in this case unsuitable. Because the square footage will be influenced by the length of the lining, the height of the walls of the house, the number and sizes of window/door openings. And the thickness of the lamella also affects the cubic capacity.

There are three ways to calculate lining:

Intuitive. The perimeter of the surface area that is to be finished with clapboard is considered. The area of the openings is subtracted from it. And to the result obtained, 10 to 30% is added for waste. A simple but not very accurate method. For those who want to save money, it is clearly not suitable.

Mathematical. It is more scrupulous and involves calculating the number of lining lamellas individually. Those. takes into account the length and width of the lamella, as well as the parameters of the openings. To calculate, you need to divide the length of the surface by the width of the lamella. Thus, you can determine the number of lamellas and take into account their length. As a result of the calculations, we obtain the exact value. In this case, no more than 10% is left for waste.

Program. in online mode.

Advice: at the point of sale, you need to select the length of the lining closest to the desired one in order to reduce waste on scraps.

The percentage of waste is determined by two parameters:

Firstly, the type of lining. The lower the grade, the greater the waste allowance.
Secondly, the geometry of laying the lamellas (method of fastening).

Step 3 - Tools and material

In addition to the lining itself, for work you will need:

wooden slats (45x20 mm) or galvanized profile for plasterboard;
thermal insulation material, vapor barrier, wind barrier (if necessary);
dowel (for a stone structure), screws (for wooden base);
nails, clamps, staples (depending on the method of fastening);
jigsaw or hacksaw;
screwdriver, hammer, stapler (depending on the method of fastening);
level, plumb line, triangle;
antiseptic, fire retardant, primer, paint or varnish;
perforator;
drill.

Step 4 - Preparing the lining for installation

Primary preparation comes down to performing work in two directions:

Primary processing of the lining includes sanding (for a regular board), sorting the lamellas by color, and checking for defects. As well as treatment with a primer, an antiseptic (protects against rotting, biological activity) and a fire retardant (creates a microfilm on the surface of the wood that prevents combustion). If the lining of coniferous wood is very tarry, it is necessary to de-resin it.

How to remove resin from lining?

To remove resinous secretions, you need to apply an acetone solution to the lamella and then wipe the surface. If there are defects, fallen knots, potholes, cracks, you need to treat the lamella with putty.

Preparatory work is carried out before the installation of the lining begins, because it is necessary to treat all surfaces of the lamellas, including those that will be located on the reverse side. As well as grooves and ridges, access to which will simply be impossible after installation.

Note: the lining must “gain” the temperature of the room where finishing will be carried out. To do this, it must be placed in the room in advance. This rule does not apply to lining for external work.

Surface treatment means inspecting the wall/ceiling for cracks, fungus, other damage, removing all defects, as well as dismantling sockets and switches. The wall surface should be treated protective compounds.

Step 5 - Cladding

5.1 Installation of sheathing under the lining

Installation of the sheathing begins with the installation of the frame belt.

Notes. At vertical installation clapboards and lathing slats are packed horizontally. At horizontal installation– vertically. When diagonal - perpendicular to the direction of laying the lamellas.

How to properly make sheathing for lining?

The first slats are installed around the perimeter of the surface. First, slats are installed at the corners of the building, so that there are two slats for each corner. We check the correct installation with a plumb line or level. Then along the perimeter of the window and door openings, and only after that the intermediate slats are filled.

The pitch of the sheathing under the lining is determined by the thickness of the insulation (if it is planned to be installed) or is selected in any order. Professionals recommend installing intermediate slats at a distance of 400 to 800 mm. Moreover, the higher the room, the smaller the sheathing pitch should be.

Wooden lining can also be installed on rounded surfaces.

The slats are attached to the surface using hardware or EC brackets for profiles for plasterboard. If the wall is absolutely flat, you can attach it directly to it, i.e. without sheathing. And if in some places there is a gap between the wall and the slats, it can be filled with a piece of wooden beam to make the slats fit more tightly to the wall.

Note. Wood slats for sheathing there must be an acceptable level of humidity. Otherwise, the lining will attract moisture and may become deformed.

It is important to ensure ventilation of the surface under the lining. To do this, the slats are packed with small gaps, as shown in the figure.

The most important thing in installing lathing is constant monitoring of the installation using building level. The more accurately the lathing is set, the easier and smoother the installation of the lining will be.

In addition, experts advise leaving a small gap at the top and bottom between the end of the slats and the ceiling, so that it is convenient to nail the lining. The gap from below (from the floor) can be easily ensured by installing a piece of wood under the rail.

Note. For wooden houses a gap of 2-2.5 cm is required. This is due to the fact that wood shrinks within 3-10 years, depending on the method of construction.

5.2 Insulation of the wall under the lining

Finishing the walls with clapboard allows you to lay insulation (hard or soft) into the cells of the sheathing. The insulation is placed in the cells of the sheathing. When laying thermal insulation material, you need to ensure that there are no gaps between the mats. To do this, it is better to lay two thin layers of material offset rather than one thick one. A vapor barrier film (when installed inside the house) or a wind barrier (when installed outside the house) is placed on top of it.

The use of a superdiffusion membrane of the Tyvek type will be universal. When laying, it is important to ensure a film overlap of 100 mm, and also to lay it right side. The side with the markings (rough) should face the lining. Counter rails are placed on top of the film, onto which the lining will actually be attached.

Advice. It is advisable to carry out insulation from the outside of the house. This will shift the freezing point into the insulation. And it will eliminate the possibility of the wall freezing.

5.3 Fastening the lining

Before proceeding directly to the installation of the lining, you need to decide on the method of fastening. Let's consider all the known methods of attaching lining to the wall, ceiling and sheathing in order to choose the most suitable option. It is worth noting that finishing a bathhouse with clapboard will be somewhat different from finishing the clapboard inside or outside the house.

How to attach the lining?

Fastening the lining with nails

The nail securely fixes the lining to the sheathing beam. As you can see in the photo, the nail is driven into the groove.

How to properly hammer nails into lining?

Eurolining can be nailed straight, but domestic (ordinary) lining can only be nailed at an angle. Working with nails is riskier than other methods because you can split the wood. For front fastening of the lining, it is better to use galvanized screw nails.

Note. The length of the nail should be at least twice the thickness of the lamella.

Advice. You can make driving a nail into a groove easier by using a simple tool. Namely, you need to saw off the sharp edge from the nail (weave). Next, place it on the nail being driven in and apply force through it. Thus, the risk of damage to the front part of the lamella is significantly reduced.

The process of fastening the lining with nails is shown in the diagram

Fastening the lining with clamps

Note: installation of lining on walls in a bathhouse requires the use of copper or galvanized clamps.

Fastening the lining with self-tapping screws

The method is used for through fastening of lamellas to the sheathing. Less often with secret.

Fastening the lining with brackets

Installing wooden lining on staples using a stapler is extremely rare. Due to the fact that you need a special stapler (gun), which can pierce fairly thick and dense wood. Some users recommend driving the staple into the clamp. Professionals disagree about the validity of this recommendation.

Combined method

This fastening of the lining allows you to secure the panels securely. The method involves the use of nails or clamps and self-tapping screws to fix the lining at the top and bottom, i.e. where the attachment point will be covered with decorative elements.

Which method of fastening the lining is better?

Knowing how to fasten wooden lining, you can choose the maximum effective method. In this case, the final choice may be influenced by:

plans for further dismantling of the lining. Fastening using clamps simplifies dismantling;

humidity level in the room. At high constant humidity levels, it is better to use self-tapping screws;

aesthetic appearance. Hidden installation involves the use of clamps or nails and allows you to completely hide the fasteners, and the mounted lining looks more beautiful. Outdoor installation lining provides for fastening through the board. In this case, it is important that the screws go in one line;

type of lining. Eurolining can be fastened in any way; conventional lining is more difficult to fasten with nails due to the small size of the groove;

the lining, which is re-attached (previously dismantled, used), is fastened with nails. This is due to the fact that during dismantling the grooves may be damaged;

fastening speed and lining thickness. Fastening the lining with a stapler allows you to carry out the work as quickly as possible, however, the possibility of its use is affected by the thickness of the lining and the type of wood;

installation method - hidden or through. For through installation, you need to drill a hole halfway through the screw, and then tighten it until it stops. Again, through installation eliminates the use of rough nails (only finishing nails), because Unsightly streaks of rust may form on the wall.

Installation of lining on walls begins from the corner of the room if the mount is horizontal, and from the top (if vertical). Particular attention is paid to the installation of the first lamella. After all, she will set the direction for all work. The first board is attached on one side (top or side), then the horizontal (vertical) is installed, then the second end is attached. Only after making sure that the board is correctly aligned and level can you secure it in the middle.

In order for the next board to fit tightly into the previous one, you need to make an effort. To do this, you can use a rubber mallet or tamper. The padding is a piece of wooden lining. Its use allows you to protect the front part of the lamella from accidental blows with a hammer.

Note. In case of using nails. They are completely hammered into the previous lamella only after the next lamella has been “baited”. This is done in order to avoid skewing the board.

It rarely happens that the lamellas cover the surface perfectly. Trimming of finishing boards is often required. Pruning must be done carefully, especially if it will not be covered with decorative elements. The last board is fastened through the end-to-end method using self-tapping screws, which can then be covered with putty, a wooden plug or special overlays. Or using finishing nails that have virtually no heads.

Another point that you may encounter during finishing is the discrepancy between the length of the lining and the height/length of the room. In this case, it all depends on the preferences of the owners, but it is preferable that the ends of the lamella fragments be at different levels.

5.5 Decorative design of lining

Cladding with clapboards outside and inside the house ends with decoration. Decorative elements will allow you to cover up flaws in the work and give the walls and ceiling a finished look.

But in order for the finishing not to spoil the work, you need to know how to install decorative elements and how to attach them correctly.

External or internal corner closed with a wooden corner. It can be glued (if the weight of the decorative element is insignificant) or secured with finishing nails.

Window and door openings should be finished with platbands. They can be joined at an angle of 90 or 45°.

The junction of the wall with the ceiling or floor must be finished with a cornice or plinth and also secured with hardware.

Reinstall the switches and sockets removed before starting work.

It is worth noting that finishing with clapboard does not end with the above stages. Next, the surface needs:

clean from dust, apply an additional layer of primer to the lining (the first layer was primed on individual lamellas before starting work);

sanding (go over the lining again with fine sandpaper). The fact is that after priming the surface will acquire a slightly rough texture;

varnishing or painting. Finishing quite a long and responsible stage. It is important to choose the right coating and apply it correctly. For example, professionals advise applying the coating in several layers and only after the previous layer has completely dried. A detailed description of how and how to cover the lining.

recycling of lining waste. Users advise using scraps of lamellas to make frames, curtain rods, furniture cladding, tabletops, etc.

Do-it-yourself clapboard paneling - video guide

Conclusion

The technology for finishing walls with clapboard inside and outside the house, and in the bathhouse (steam room, shower) is different, this should be taken into account during installation. The choice of fastening and installation method also makes certain adjustments. Good fasteners and wood processing will extend the life of the cladding.

Cladding walls with clapboard is widely used for interior decoration of loggias and country houses. Wood allows the walls to breathe. , made using such material, will give a feeling of calm and comfort. Proper cladding will allow you to make it more comfortable.

Classification

There are several classifications of this material. When choosing which one to buy, you need to start first of all from your goal, then choose the right option from those proposed.

Divided depending on the type of wood used.

It is made from the following species:

Deciduous;
Coniferous.

The second option is not recommended for use in rooms where large temperature changes are expected. These are saunas and baths. Due to the high temperature, resins can be released onto the surface of the wood, which makes the finish sticky and not very aesthetically pleasing.

In addition, these substances can cause burns. An exception to this rule is considered. It belongs to the finishing materials of the highest category. The cladding is expensive, but it will last a long time without creating problems.

Coniferous species include spruce, larch, pine, eucalyptus, cedar. These trees are considered "soft".

Deciduous trees– alder, aspen, linden, ash. Linden is considered a particularly valuable species. When exposed to high temperature, it releases a pleasant, unobtrusive aroma. It has a beneficial effect on the nervous system.

Quality is determined depending on the class. There are four of them:

Extra or Premium;

Extra class- the most expensive type. It is distinguished by impeccable execution. It is usually made by gluing, since otherwise the price of such material would be very high. It is perfect for creating expensive decorations. You will not notice any flaws either on its surface or inside.

Class A also called . The distribution by class is determined by GOST. When choosing, you should view it yourself.

Extra class and Class A are not much different from some manufacturers. You will not find any obvious defects on boards of this category. There are no black falling knots or blue stains on it. If there are defects, they are minor and do not affect the quality of workmanship.

Class B – a budget option. This type or loggias. Defects are usually in the nature of a small manufacturing defect. This category is available to most citizens.

Class C- the lowest-grade option. There are many defects on the surface such as slight rot, blue discoloration, falling black knots and cracks. If it is used, it is only for finishing unimportant utility rooms.

By profile type they are distinguished:

Standard;
Softline
American;
Block house;

It is an imitation of rounded timber. This finish is perfect would be better suited For country house. It will give the look of old log houses.

Softline received this name because of its slightly rounded edges.

Gives the impression that the panels are overlapped. It can be used for both interior and exterior work. Tightly fitting panels prevent moisture from getting inside.

Advantages

You can praise wooden lining endlessly. This is an environmentally friendly material.

He doesn't highlight any harmful substances, so they can even be used to cover rooms where children or people with allergies live.

This is a durable material. When properly processed over time, it does not lose its original appearance. It will not be scratched or burst.

Various tree species and diversity paint and varnish products, will allow you to create a finish of any color.

Cladding with clapboard, in contrast, is not so exposed to harsh external and internal factors. She is not afraid of minor mechanical damage. It will retain its original appearance.

Horizontal or vertical cladding

Do-it-yourself wall cladding with clapboard begins with choosing the laying direction. There are horizontal, vertical, diagonal and mixed.

Horizontal Vertical Diagonal
Christmas tree Brickwork Frame

Horizontal direction finishing is traditional for Russia. It expands the space. But the main disadvantage is the accumulation of moisture and dust in the joints. To avoid this, it is necessary to direct the grooves downwards. In this direction, it is recommended to start from the ceiling to the floor.

Vertical direction widely used for decoration in Finland. Using this method, we can visually increase the height of the ceiling. This is especially true if we . In this case, it is necessary to start installation from the corner, and the most difficult one.

Diagonal and mixed The direction is distinguished, first of all, by aesthetics. It is much more difficult to install. Unique design can also be achieved by combining different types of wood.

We build the sheathing

Do-it-yourself clapboard cladding begins with installing the sheathing.

For fastening it to brick and concrete walls Dowels are used; for wooden ones, nails or screws are used.

It is very important to mark the surface before installing the frame. The quality of the finish itself depends on a properly constructed structure.

The lathing also has the function of leveling the walls. To do this, place wedges or chips under the timber. The frame can be made of either wood or a metal profile. Do not forget to treat the surface with protective compounds.

A prerequisite is the use of a building level. The more often you use it, the less you will have to redo.

Most often, 50×25 mm timber is used as a base.

Fastening the frame elements depends on the chosen direction of the lining. The bars should be located perpendicular to the panels.

The standard lathing pitch is 50 cm. It is convenient to place insulation sheets inside such pockets.

You can use a fishing line and a plumb line. If you're going, experienced craftsmen It is recommended to place the ribs of the structure at the level of the knee, hip and chest. This will ensure optimal structural rigidity.

The video shows how to install the frame:

Self-cladding

Or the walls are unacceptable when using raw lining. First you need to dry it.

Finished panels are most often fastened in a hidden way. Installing the first board is very important. It lays the foundation for the entire structure. It is fixed in several places and the slope must be checked using a building level.

In the horizontal direction, we begin the installation from the ceiling, in the vertical direction - from the corner in which the greatest trimming is implied. The bottom board is usually trimmed. The baseboard will help hide this.

After the first panel is secured, the next one is inserted into the groove. It is secured in the same way.

The joints between the planks, as well as the panels themselves, must be carefully treated with special compounds.

Video - do-it-yourself wall covering:

Even if you are not a professional, if you follow all the rules and formalities, you can easily cover the walls!

Approximate cost of work

The cost of the material depends on the breed and. approximate price in the table:

The cost of the cladding goes for square meter. Price of work - approximately 300rub/m2.

Today, lining is often used as a natural finishing material. The material is thin wooden panels that have a tongue and groove for more precise assembly of the skin. During production, the wood undergoes careful processing, which allows us to obtain perfectly even lamellas with a smooth surface. The popularity of such a finishing material raises the question for a private developer of how to cover a house with clapboards with his own hands and at the same time get a high-quality result.

Important: for interior decoration, they are most often used wood material. While for external cladding, both metal and plastic panels can be used.

A little about wooden lining: classification and varieties

Lining (wooden slats for cladding) is made from various types of wood. If it is deciduous wood, then oak, birch, walnut, beech, ash, and birch are most often used. Coniferous wood species are pine, spruce, larch, cedar, etc. But in any case, the prepared cladding undergoes chamber drying during production, which makes the panels dense and durable. In addition, the low percentage of humidity of the finished panel ensures almost zero percentage of its shrinkage during its service life.

According to the classification, lining is divided into the following types:

Extra-class lining. The surface of such panels is perfectly smooth, without resin pockets, knots or cracks. The shade of the panels is even and uniform. The cost of EXTRA class lining is radically different from other types of panels.
Class A lining. The surface of such panels may contain knot cuts in a single case, but there are no visible defects in the form of resin pockets, cracks or chips on such wood. Class A wood is most often used for interior decoration of residential premises.
Class B lining. The surface of the wood has manufacturing defects and visible defects such as resin pockets, cut knots or uneven shade. This material is mainly used for finishing small auxiliary premises such as a balcony, loggia, etc. The price of the material is significantly lower than the first two options.
Class AB lining. This type of wood for finishing is characterized by low quality and a correspondingly low price.

In addition to classification, lining is also divided according to appearance into the following categories:

Eurolining.
It features a smooth surface, uniform shade and a large number of locking connections, which simplifies its installation.
Lining panel. Such wooden lamellas have the appearance of timber. At the same time, the density of the cladding material is quite high, which makes the cladding beautiful and uniform.
American lining. The lamellas are made at a bevel, which allows you to form unique wooden overlaps on the surface of the sheathing. This type of American lining is especially good in cases where the premises are operated in conditions of high or variable humidity. Condensation thus flows down the protrusions without getting into the grooves of the trim. Flea house lining. The surface looks like a rounded log. Therefore, with such

interior lining

As cladding for interior spaces, lining is an excellent material. There are several reasons for this:

High strength wooden slats that are not subject to impact loads.
Aesthetic appeal finished walls or ceiling.
Environmental friendliness of the material.
Its resistance to UV radiation.

However, wooden panels also have a number of disadvantages:

Tendency to absorb moisture. The issue can be resolved by coating the finish with special varnishes based on water, polyurethane or acrylic.
The tendency of a tree to expand linearly. During installation, it is necessary to leave technological grooves of 0.5 cm in the corners of the room. The corners are then covered with decorative corners and baseboards.

Self-installation wood paneling on the walls of the house can be done simply. But you need to follow a few basic rules:

Before installation wood panels they need to be acclimatized. That is, you first need to condition the panels in the room in which they will be used. This “exposure” will allow the tree to take the desired level of humidity and parameters at a certain temperature in the room.
Also, before installing the casing, you should check all the lamellas for defects, so as not to interrupt your work later.
The lining can be mounted both horizontally and vertically. In this case, the first method is more often used for “dry” rooms, and the second - for “wet” ones (sauna, bathhouse, kitchen, etc.).
You can fasten the lining as follows: open method, simply nailing the panels to the sheathing with nails, or in a hidden way, using thin nails and a hammer or clamps (special clips for installing lamellas).

Important: when decorating a room with clapboard in a horizontal direction, the tenon should be located at the bottom and the groove at the top. This technology will prevent possible moisture from entering the locking joints.

Installation technique

To complete the interior decoration of a house with clapboards, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

Wooden panels of the selected type;
Wooden beam with a section of 40x20 mm or metal profiles to create sheathing;
Electric screwdriver;
Hammer and hammer;
Kleimers;
Decorative varnish of the selected shade.

Work on the installation of wood panels is carried out in the following order:

First, completely clean the surface of dirt, dust and grease. If there are remnants of the old decorative coating, it is advisable to remove them.
Then we decide on the type of installation of the lining (horizontal or vertical) and apply markings on the wall for the sheathing. The first plank is mounted from the corner, clearly aligning it vertically (under the horizontal cladding) or from the floor/ceiling, leveling the horizontal (under the vertical cladding). Remember, the first panel will be the start for installing the entire sheathing with perfect evenness. The evenness of the wooden lining walls and the very simplicity of its installation depend on how smoothly the frame is mounted. The pitch of the frame planks should be no more than 50-60 cm. However, the pitch width can be varied depending on the length of the wooden panels.

Tip: under the horizontal sheathing, you can mount two vertical sheathing strips in two opposite corners of the wall and stretch a fishing line between them. It will be easier to track the evenness of the installation of the remaining slats.

Important: if the sheathing is made of timber, then it must first be treated with an antiseptic against wood rotting.

Once the frame is installed, you can begin installing the lining. Vertical cladding of a house with clapboard is much easier. Here it is enough to attach the first lamella of the lining to the sheathing and secure it with nails along the back wall of the groove at an angle of 30 degrees relative to the sheathing. I use thin nails, and so that the head does not interfere with the tenon entering the groove, it is driven into the wood with a hammer. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the wood. The next groove is driven into the lamella nailed to the sheathing and again fixed from the rear wall of the groove. This is how the entire sheathing is installed. In this case, it is advisable not to push the grooves of the panels all the way. A small technical gap will allow the tree to expand freely under the influence of temperature changes or humidity. If clamps are used during installation, they are first attached to the rear wall of the groove, and then nails are installed through the holes in them.
When installing panels horizontally, it is better to start work from the top. This way it will be more convenient to attach the slats using both nails and clamps. The work progress is carried out in the same way as with vertical cladding.
After finishing the work, all undercuts and gaps are covered with wooden plinths.

Additional processing of lining

To ensure that walls made of wooden panels last a long time and do not deteriorate under the influence of dust, moisture and household stains, you can additionally treat the wood with varnish. Most often, acrylic, water-dispersed or polyurethane varnishes are used.

The first option has a rich color palette from colorless to wenge shade. So it will be possible to completely transform the house. Acrylic varnish dries quickly and can be cleaned with a damp cloth afterwards.

Varnish on water based allows the wood to breathe and at the same time makes the surface of the lamellas protected from dirt and moisture. This varnish needs to be applied in several layers, waiting for the previous one to dry completely. Water-based varnish also comes in many shades.

Polyurethane varnish prevents the wood from yellowing over time. The main thing is to choose a primer tone that will not differ from the final shade of the varnish, especially if its color is light.

Ready wooden surface looks rich and cozy. A house decorated in this way will give a lot of aesthetic pleasure to its owners.

Important: if for some reason you cannot do the cladding with your own hands, then be prepared for the fact that you will have to pay for the work to be carried out by craftsmen. So, installing the cladding inside on a flat surface will cost about $5-7/m2. If the volume and complexity of the work are increased several times, then the price will triple. The price of the lining itself per m2 varies from $140 to $180.

Cladding materials have always been in great demand. One of their varieties is lining. It has established itself as a high-quality product with many positive properties. There is a wide variety of profiles on the market, which allows you to create different textures and attach panels anywhere. Almost any type of wood can be used as a primary raw material. Lining has become a common material for finishing steam rooms, but it can also be found in expensive private homes. The styling pattern is selected individually. It can be horizontal, vertical, diagonal, combined. Complex configurations are popular these days. Eurolining has a good reputation. She has more neat look and improved properties. If you have basic knowledge, clapboard cladding can be done on your own.

Advantages and disadvantages of finishing

Types of lining

Conventional lining is characterized by the following dimensions: thickness - 1.2-2.5 cm, width - up to 15 cm and length - up to 6 m (this is basically what it was in the old GOST standards). Standard lining has a smaller tenon - 4-6 mm, compared to 8-9 for Euro lining. The humidity of ordinary material is 8-12%, 25-35%, the European version is up to 12%. Old type the linings are made from material with natural moisture. Eurolining is a high-quality cladding board for external and internal wall decoration. It masks imperfections well and is capable of leveling surfaces. In addition, it performs sound and heat insulating functions. Eurolining has certain fixed parameters. The thickness is 1.3, 1.6 and 1.9 cm. The width is 8, 10, 11 or 12 cm. The maximum length of the board is 6 meters, but this figure depends on the manufacturer and varies greatly in different cases.

Types of wood from which eurolining is made:

Linden;
pine;
aspen.

Types of lining profiles

Variety is important in finishing, so manufacturers produce different variations and modifications of the lining. Traditional eurolining forms distinct seams after installation. If this type of lining has a rounded chamfer, then it is “Softline”. Its outer part is devoid of corners, which allows you to protect the wood from burrs and chips for a long time. "Softline" is well suited for saunas. The Shtil lining does not have a chamfer near the tenon, and, as a result, there will be no pronounced seams after assembly. The thickness reaches 2.5 cm, so it can be used for decorating facades. “Landhouse” is a lining with a complex rounded shape at the edges. Finishing with this coating will make the interior more “expensive”. Another interesting option is “Blockhouse”, which features a rounded front side. This material can be used to finish the surfaces inside log houses and facades.

Several more types of lining:

"American". Has a sloping surface. The elements are overlapped.
Double-sided. Both sides are obverse. It is used not only for finishing walls, but also for constructing partitions.

Type of lining depending on the type of wood

The lining is made from coniferous and deciduous trees, as well as from exotic species (for example, mahogany). Among the coniferous species, it is worth highlighting spruce, pine, larch and cedar. Spruce is endowed with softness, which is important for making boards with rounded shapes. This material looks great in modern interior. Pine lining is a budget option with many important qualities, including high strength. Larch is one of the most expensive coniferous species. Cedar boards have a pleasant natural smell that has a beneficial effect on the body. Among hardwoods, the most popular are oak, alder and linden. Oak wood is a durable and sought-after material. The lining made from this wood is considered classic version. Alder is suitable for use in damp rooms as it does not absorb moisture. Linden is very resistant to deformation and mechanical damage. Lining from it is relatively inexpensive.

Type of lining

There are 4 varieties:

Extra;
Class A;
Class B;
Class C.

The boards are sorted depending on the presence of resin pockets, pronounced blueness, knots, cracks, and roughness (poorly treated areas). The extra grade is characterized by the complete absence of prostrog or minor defects on the front side. On one linear meter there may be one light knot. For class A, the presence of microcracks and small untreated areas is allowed. At the longitudinal ends, cracks no longer than the width of the board are allowed. There should be no more than a fifth of all boards made of core profiles. It is acceptable to have 3 knots on one linear meter. As for class B, the presence of 2 falling knots is allowed on one such board. Cracks up to 3 cm are allowed on the front side, and any size on the front and back sides. All panels can be made from core, with resin pockets. Class C includes all boards that are not included in the categories from extra to class B, but are suitable for use. Rottenness is not allowed.

Where to apply

Clapboard finishing is often used in steam rooms and other bathhouses. In this case, choose panels made of linden and alder (for steam rooms) and coniferous wood (for other places). These types of wood are endowed healing properties, thanks to substances that are released when heated. Boards with knots cannot be used in steam rooms, as the corresponding areas become hotter. For good aroma It is recommended to install several pine boards in the area of the stove. The lining treated with protective compounds is suitable for cladding facades; the type of wood in this regard is not particularly important. Interior decoration is a complex task; panels in a uniform color scheme are required. Mahogany lining is used for cladding walls in expensive mansions. The panels are also used to make partitions to divide space: both in apartments and in open areas.

Sheathing schemes

There are two ways - using external fastening and hidden. With the external method, the boards must be fixed with fasteners. In the second case, the panels are attached to the sheathing from the groove side, where there is a joint with a tenon. The appearance with this option will be more aesthetic. The lining can be mounted vertically, horizontally and, if necessary, in a non-standard way. When laying panels horizontally, the teeth must be directed from the lower element to the upper one, and not vice versa. When sheathing a log wall, staples and nails for them and lathing are used. To cover a room with clapboard smooth walls, you need to use bars. They are placed at a distance of no more than 50 cm between adjacent elements and perpendicular to the panels. The cladding is framed with decorative skirting boards and fillets

Basic fastening methods:

nails;
screws;
staples;
kleimers.

How to sheathe it yourself

You will need to complete the following stages of work:

Prepare the lining.
Prepare the wall.
Assemble the sheathing.
Attach the clapboard to the lattice frame.
Finish the covering with skirting boards and, if necessary, other elements.

The panels are processed first. Depending on the place of application, any class of lining can be processed. It is always necessary to prepare the surface of class C products. The same applies to lining made by yourself. Preparing the walls consists of leveling them and applying markings for the sheathing. It is not necessary to level it; instead, you can do other manipulations. The crucial point is the installation of the sheathing. The timber itself and the distance between the elements are selected. The configuration completely depends on the planned method of laying the lining. Different approaches are used to fix the panels. The main thing in the work is caution, because inaccurate driving of the fastener can lead to the appearance of serious defects in the material. When the sheathing is ready, installation of baseboards and finishing begins.

How to prepare the lining

If necessary, the panels are treated with fine-grained sandpaper to eliminate roughness. Further processing begins with cleaning the surface of the material. If you plan to apply wax or varnish to the lining, stain is first used. It will preserve the color of the wood for a long time. There are 3 types of stain: oil-based, alcohol-based and water-based. Antiseptics will protect the wood from moisture penetration and mold. If the installation location is a bathhouse, waxing will be required. It is applied in small quantities, in the direction of the fibers. This procedure must be repeated several times. Then the products are polished. Among other things, the color of the boards will become deeper. Available for sale big choice impregnations with wax, which are also suitable for preparing lining. Final stage- applying varnish. You will need at least 2 layers. The material must be perfectly dry before installation.

Grease stains can be removed using a 25% acetone solution.

Preparing the walls

You will need to make markings on the wall for the sheathing. This action is performed using a pencil and level. The configuration of the cladding and the direction in which the lining will be placed are determined in advance. The bars are always placed perpendicularly. If everything has already been decided about this nuance, you can start treating the walls with antifungal agents and marking the surfaces. If something happens, the pencil is replaced with chalk. The width of the sheathing step is selected depending on the purposes. For strength, it is advisable to make it as small as possible. Usually this figure is in the range of 35-60 cm. If you plan to insulate a room in the future, the step is determined based on the size of the insulation material and should be slightly smaller. To ensure that the frame structure is level, you will need to use a plumb line and fishing line. A visualization is created, along the edges of which bars are then placed.

We create a sheathing for fasteners

This is one of the most important stages, which has a significant impact on the final result. Only sometimes the lining is attached directly to wooden walls, in other situations, lathing is necessary. At the very beginning, we select the timber. For this sheathing, a block with a cross section of 40×20 mm - best option. We install the frame one level at a time. If necessary, we level each individual wall. You can use another method - determine the most protruding place on the wall. Then a small piece of timber is placed there and the sheathing is mounted from it. From this point the thread is pulled parallel to the planned direction of laying the panels. At the extreme points of the wall, 2 load-bearing beams are placed. If necessary, install spacers between the wall and the beam. If a row of lining will be mounted from 2 boards, another beam is needed at the junction.

Other important nuances:

when securing the structure, you need to check the level;
if there are door or window openings the bars must be fastened around them;
Installation of lathing on the ceiling is done in the same way as on the walls.

Fixation methods

The lining is secured using staplers, clamps or fasteners (screws, nails). During installation, care must be taken to avoid splitting the wood and causing cracks. Full insertion of the nail head into the material and accuracy of work are ensured with the help of a hammer. When installed in a hidden way, the panels are nailed to the frame at the junction of the tongue and groove. The simplest and easiest assembly method is to fasten with small nails in any places, but it is better to prefer a neat method that involves hammering nails into the grooves to hide the connection. The highest quality fastening is ensured by metal clamps. They come in different sizes, shapes and are designed for a certain board thickness. The fasteners are connected to the sheathing on one side, and cut into the grooves on the other.

Fastening the lining to the ceiling requires careful steps, so it is better to do this together with a specialist!

The process of fastening the lining

At correct installation lathing, the process of installing the lining will take place without complications. A level may be needed when attaching the first panel. The first question before installation is which side to start laying the boards on. You can determine the answer by finding out how smooth the surface is. If it corresponds to the level, then you can start laying from any side: top, bottom, right, left, corner. The first board is then placed level. If the surface is slightly “overwhelmed”, or some corner is uneven, the boards cannot be installed this way. Otherwise, they will visually emphasize the curvature. The lining will need to be assembled in a different way. The first board is attached flush to the corner, the rest - with a slight inclination in the desired direction. Sooner or later some panel will become level. All boards “fill up” to the same extent. The first one needs to be placed with the spike towards the corner.

Rules for installing skirting boards on a wall with lining

For an aesthetic appearance, the sheathed walls are decorated with floor and ceiling skirting boards. Sometimes they need to be mounted on the wall (corner). When finishing corners, they are guided by the following rules: if there is an adjacent unsheathed wall, then the plinth is installed on it, and when placed between two sheathed ones, it should be attached to the shorter one. These measures should not prevent thermal deformation and drying out of surfaces that are most susceptible to them. If the wall is decorated with clapboard, then the baseboards are fixed using finishing nails. They hammer it through the body, the narrow cap goes into the mass. These areas are then treated with a wax pencil. If the surface is not flat (for example, log), nailing a regular baseboard will not always be possible. Gaps may remain. It is likely that in the corners the baseboards will not meet at all. Instead, you can use flat platbands. They fit tightly on the wall, and you can make them yourself, including from clapboard.

Decorative finishing methods

If installation is carried out in a hidden way, it is recommended to use decorative fasteners. A hammer will ensure accurate fixation and decoration of the nail in the wood. You can decorate the corner between the boards using treated timber - this way there will be no gaps in the opening. If the natural color of the wood does not fit into the interior or does not add any color, then the lining is coated with paint. It’s better to match the decor or White color. The nail heads that secure the starter board are covered with decorative corners. If there are no decorative slats, then the tops of the fasteners are removed with side cutters. All joints, internal and external corners must be closed. For decoration, the lower and ceiling skirting boards. The interior can be radically changed by installing false beams on top of the lining.

Conclusion

Lining - in demand finishing material. It varies according to metrological standards, profile, wood species and grade. Cladding made of lining has an attractive appearance and beneficial properties. This material is used in baths/saunas, apartments, houses, on balconies, land plots, in transport. The fastening scheme can be external or hidden. The second option is more aesthetic. You can sheathe the surfaces yourself. First of all, they are carried out preparatory work- boards are processed, markings are drawn on the walls and ceilings. The panels are varnished, coated with impregnations and wax, painted, and in some situations, minimal surface treatment is sufficient. The next thing to do is install the sheathing. The panels are attached to it using special means. The installation technology differs depending on the correct shape of the surfaces and angles.

Lining is natural material, which is perfect for cladding the house inside and outside. Not everyone knows how to properly sheathe walls, so they prefer to hire a team of builders. However, in reality, anyone who wants to can do the sheathing can do it.

Features of finishing work using lining

Covering walls with clapboard is in no way inferior to finishing with siding or corrugated sheets. The material is considered universal by experts. This board has a groove and a tongue. In addition, depending on the profile, it has a layer. Its design has an excellent appearance. It will be able to reliably protect the building from blowing outside. No finishing material can compare with it when considering the cleanliness and environmental friendliness of the indoor climate.

Variety of options

Sheathing a house, as a rule, begins with selecting the right material. In this case, the purpose of the room must be taken into account. Depending on the profile, it is divided into the following options:

Lining panel. Her profile is simple and technological. It costs from 100 rubles.
Eurolining is distinguished by the presence of recesses on the underside of the panel. Through them, drainage and ventilation of vapors and moisture are carried out. It can be used for facade cladding of a summer house. The average cost of this product is 200 rubles.
American is intended for exterior decoration. This material costs at least 190 rubles per m2.
The block house imitates round timber, as it has a convex profile on the outside. Like a simple lining, it has a flat inner side with grooves and tenons on the side. Its price is 250 rubles.

Varieties of varieties

"Extra" is a designation for the most quality material. He has a smooth and Smooth surface, no knots or defects. This is the most expensive option. If you want to save at least a little, you will need to turn to grade “A”. Here, a living knot occurs on a certain surface area. "B" may have minor imperfections in addition to knots. Grade “C” is considered the cheapest, but it has almost no aesthetic appeal.

To choose the best option for yourself, it is useful to watch the video:

How many squares are there in a cubic meter?

When purchasing material, it is important to have certain knowledge. For example: how much area can one cube cover? This value may change its meaning: it all depends on the thickness of the purchased product. Quadrature allows you to find out how many m2 of lining there are in one cube.

It can be calculated by measuring the thickness of the coating (12 - 25 mm). This figure is converted into meters. If the thickness of the product is 16 mm, then accordingly it comes out to 0.016 m.
The cubic unit is divided by the resulting number: 1: 0.016 = 62.5 squares.

Material needed for interior lining

The width and length of the room are measured. Additionally, the area of the ceiling is calculated if it is planned to be sheathed.
The area of the walls is calculated based on the height and length.
All obtained indicators are added together. From here the squaring of openings: windows and doors is subtracted.

Building material for exterior finishing

When calculating the area, the method given above is used.
Squaring the pediments by multiplying the height by the length. The resulting value is divided by 2.
The results of each wall are summed up, and the area of the openings is subtracted from the result.

You can find out the number of boards in a lining cube by multiplying the total area by the thickness.

What are the types of cladding work?

Traditionally, a distinction is made between exterior and interior decoration. For the second type, you should choose the Euro standard.

Wall covering with clapboard is carried out both vertically and horizontally. Regardless of the choice, you need to make a frame. Used as guides wooden blocks. The optimal cross-section is considered to be 30x60 mm.

The guides must be secured to the walls using pads with iron hangers, specially designed for gypsum boards. The lining is attached to the guides with thin nails or clamps. Thus, you can cover almost any room.

Exterior finishing

For this purpose, the most suitable are 2, 1 and premium. If painting will be done with colorless varnish, then “Extra” or “A” will be needed. Only these materials do not have falling knots.

3 stages of house cladding

Outside Finishing work carried out in stages:

Marking
Installation
Stitching

In addition to the traditional methods: vertical and horizontal, there is an alternative - herringbone lining layout. The last option is considered the most economical.

To install racks that act as guides, you need to use a level or plumb line. There should be 2 racks for each corner of the building. Boards or bars are used. They are secured with nails or self-tapping screws.

Bars are installed horizontally and vertically near doors and windows. To ensure a level surface, the upholstery cord is pulled from above and below. Having installed the vertical bars, the guides are set.

Beginners should know how to properly line walls with clapboard. For fastening in this case, the open fastening method is used. The screw is screwed directly into the boards. In this case, you should make sure that the fastening elements are located on the same line.

If you hire construction company, then their services are not cheap. You will have to pay at least 350 rubles per m2, taking into account the complexity of the lining and the type of insulation. Therefore, the savings are obvious if you decide to cover your house with clapboards yourself.

Lining inside

Here again you will need racks with guides. Only the fastening is called hidden. It is done with clamps or thin nails driven into grooves. There are also significant differences in interior decoration. You need a high quality board. Conducted additional work to ensure thermal insulation and waterproofing of walls.

When a room has sloping walls, the frame is mounted taking into account the slope. The interior decoration of the walls with lining of the room is carried out with a board with dimensions of 30x50 mm.

First of all, markings are made for the corner posts. In addition to them, horizontal connections are fixed. The resulting outline is used as a guide.

The finishing also depends on the material from which the house is built. If the building is made of wooden building materials, then vertical racks should not rest against the ceiling or floor. They need to be mounted at a distance of 2 or 2.5 cm. This is due to the fact that the walls in this case may be subject to constant deformation. The price, if you hire a team, will vary between 600 -1,000 rubles. The video will introduce you to all the stages of installation inside:

By trusting professionals, you can count on fast and high-quality results. This approach is practical. By doing everything yourself, you can save 2 times. Decorating a house with clapboard is not impossible. It takes time and desire.