How to cut chipboard at home. How to cut chipboard without chipping in a home workshop

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In this material we will touch upon a topical issue for garage craftsmen who deal with furniture made from chipboard, the question of how to cut chipboard without chipping. In fact, the question is quite pressing, because professional equipment (format cutting machine) on which cutting is carried out in furniture shops costs about a million rubles, which not everyone can afford, and the area for its placement should be slightly larger than standard 18 sq. meters. A feature of such machines is the presence of two saw blades (the first is a small scoring one and the second is the main one, which follows exactly behind it). What can replace such a machine in an amateur workshop?

The most optimal replacement, in my opinion, is a plunge-cut circular saw complete with a guide bar. That's what we'll talk about today.

Personally, I use an Elitech plunge-cut saw - this is a domestic budget model, which, despite its simplicity, allows you to achieve good results.

Professional models (for example, Festool saws, they cut even better, but also cost 5 times more).

So, how is a plunge-cut circular saw different from a regular one? Firstly, with its spring-loaded working part with a depth limiter. Due to this, it is very easy to set and change the depth of cut; in addition, the “head” returns to its original position on its own without operator pressure. Secondly, there are mandatory grooves on the sole for integration with the guide rail. Thirdly, a rigid structure that eliminates backlash (the cut passes strictly in one place).

The tire itself is equipped with an anti-splinter tape (as a rule, it is a tape made of hard rubber - black stripe on the right)

The tape presses the laminate, preventing its pieces from tearing off at the points where the teeth of the saw blade exit. The tire also has grooves for fixing to workpieces with clamps and tapes for easier sliding (red stripes).

By the way, the Festool saw is equipped with anti-splinter inserts on the side opposite the tire, which makes the cut clean on both sides of the blade.

The tire itself is rigidly attached to the workpiece and does not move. Fixation is carried out with special clamps (their shape is somewhat different from standard F-shaped ones. The price, by the way, too).

All these features allow you to cut in “two passes”. The first one does not cut deep the top layer of the laminate. The second is through sawing to the full depth. At the same time, there is no longer any material at the point where the tooth emerges from the workpiece, so there is nothing to pull out, and accordingly, chips do not form. This is all in theory. Let's look at how this is all done in practice.

The markup is quite traditional. Using a tape measure, mark the start and end points of the cut (you can use a carpenter's square).

We draw a marking line connecting these risks.

We set the guide bar along the line so that the edge of the anti-splinter tape aligns with the markings.

Please note that the tire lies on the part that should remain (there will be no chips on it - the tape on the tire will help). On a suspended piece, they are possible due to the absence of an insert on the saw itself.

You can, of course, saw by laying a sheet of laminated chipboard on a workbench, but this damages the surface of the workbench and you need to use replaceable tabletops (I don’t do this, although with large pieces this may be the only correct method).

The tire is attached to the workpiece in pairs F-shaped clamps, inserted into special grooves on the tire.

We take the saw in our hands and set the depth regulator to 11-12 mm, which corresponds to 5-6 mm of cutting depth (the bar itself “eats” about 5 mm).

We place the saw on the bar, aligning the grooves on the sole with the protrusions on the bar.

We make the first shallow cut. The photo shows that there are a small number of chips on the part of the workpiece not covered with tape.

And one more photo from a different angle.

And a close-up

We change the depth to 35-40 mm and make a second through cut without changing the position of the tire.

Having removed the tire, we see a fairly neat cut that does not require additional processing.

I took a separate photo of the part after removing the tire from above

And from the bottom side.

By the way, the cut from below is traditionally cleaner, because in this place the teeth of the disk only cut into the material, they tear it out at the exit.

Let me also note one important fact. Use sharp discs when working. The disk used in this lesson is already quite tired and requires editing. I think that with a zero disk there would be no chips at all.

In addition to the sharpness of the teeth, the quality of the cut is greatly influenced by the material being cut. There are thornier coatings and stronger coatings. In this example, 16 mm Lamarty chipboard boards were used - one of the best domestic boards. Egger or Kronospan laminated chipboards are much more susceptible to chipping, and I most likely would not have achieved such a result with this disk.

All these points come with experience, all that’s left is to invest in the purchase of this device.

In principle, you can cut in “two passes” with ordinary circular saws with homemade guide rails, the main thing is that the sole does not dangle, but doing this is less convenient than using plunge-cut saws, primarily due to the inconvenience of rearranging the sawing depth.

Chipboard is a chipboard, a common material. Currently, it is widely used in the production of furniture, office and cabinet furniture, wardrobes, partitions, countertops, etc.

The main advantages of this material: affordability, ease of use, good thermal insulation properties, high strength, homogeneity of the material (no voids, cracks) Thanks to special additives, it becomes resistant to moisture, open fire, and fungi.

Chipboard can be sawed, planed, milled, nails or screws driven into it, drilled, cut. It can be used to make various parts of almost any shape. Possible use different ways: laminate, paint, veneer, plastic or paper. The material is mainly used indoors. It is not suitable for outdoor work; it is, after all, wood. Chipboard covers walls, decorates residential and industrial premises. But with all the advantages, there is one problem - chips that occur when cutting. Here we will discover how to avoid this problem and share some tips.

Preparing for work

Conditions

It must be remembered that for quality work Several conditions must be met.

  1. Install the stove correctly. The surface must be flat, stable, without drops. The chipboard board must be fixed so that it does not “move out” during operation.
  2. The tool must be in good working order.
  3. It is necessary to saw the chipboard board only with a saw with fine teeth (this is important for coated boards, since a saw with fine teeth does not crumble the material).
  4. It is best to apply masking tape to the cut line.
  5. You must strictly follow safety precautions.

Compliance with all the above conditions will guarantee receipt good results from the work done.

Expert advice

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"It is not difficult to turn a carpenter's level into a theodolite by equipping it with an aiming device from a slot and a front sight."

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Before drilling a hole in concrete wall, secure a piece of paper just below. Dust and concrete fragments will not fly around the room.

"To cut a pipe exactly at a right angle, we recommend doing this. Take an even strip of paper and screw it onto the pipe along the sawing line. The plane passing through the edge of the paper will be strictly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe."

"Roll over logs or wooden beams A simple device will help - a piece of a motorcycle or bicycle chain, equipped with a hook on one side and secured to a crowbar on the other side. "

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You can cut a piece of slate of the required size with a saw, but it is better and easier to punch holes along the line of the intended cut with a nail at a frequency of 2-3 cm, and then break off the slate on the support.

" The best way glue the tile to the wall: take bitumen, melt it and drop just four drops on the corners of the tile. Stuck on dead. "

When making shaped window casings, it is most convenient to cut shaped holes with a hacksaw with a sharpened blade.

"Making stained glass is a long and difficult task. You can make a quick imitation of stained glass. To do this, take thin slats or rods of vines, glue them to a sheet of glass, and then paint the glass and cover it with varnish."

"If you don't have a dowel at hand, you can make one from a piece of plastic tube. The body of a ballpoint pen can also be suitable for this. Having sawed off a piece of the required length, make a longitudinal cut, about halfway, and the dowel is ready."

"It is known how difficult it is to hang a door when working alone. But just shorten the bottom pin by 2-3 mm and the work will become much easier."

"A very durable, non-shrinking and fairly waterproof putty is made from bustylate mixed with any powder - chalk, gypsum, cement!, sawdust, etc."

"If you need to screw a screw into the end of a particle board, drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw, fill the hole with Moment glue (not epoxy!), screw the screw in a day later. The board does not delaminate. However, the resulting connection can only be placed under load through day. "

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To save time, the edge of the wallpaper can be trimmed with a sharp knife without unrolling the roll. To do this, you must first align the end of the roll and draw the edge border on the outside with a simple pencil. Working with a knife, the roll must be gradually turned in the direction of rolling.

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"Slight rotting on wood can be eliminated as follows: the affected wood is removed from the healthy layer, and then soaked in a 10% formaldehyde solution. After drying, the area is puttied and painted over."

How to cut laminated chipboard without chipping?

laminated chipboard- this is a well-known particle board, finely sanded and covered with a paper-resin film. Lamination is carried out under a pressure of 25-28 MPa at a temperature of 140-210 C. The coating is durable, beautiful, resistant to mechanical damage and thermal effects, which makes laminated chipboard very attractive for furniture production and interior decoration premises.

Many home craftsmen prefer self-production furniture and buy high-quality chipboard in construction stores or from manufacturers. Fortunately, the wide range of colors of laminated coatings allows you to easily choose the most suitable one. suitable material. The surface texture is also varied: it can be smooth, imitating wood or a natural stone, embossed with shagreen or wood pores.

But to make with my own hands unique furniture or exclusive interior, it’s not enough to just buy laminated chipboard and cut it according to patterns. The thin laminated coating has a fragile structure. With rough, illiterate actions, the cut turns out to be torn, and deep cavities appear on the edges of the coating. To cut laminated chipboard without chips and cracks, you need to know some tricks of working with it.

Rules for sawing laminated chipboard

You can cut laminated chipboard at home with a hand saw with fine teeth, a circular saw, or a jigsaw. In order for the work to go without a hitch, you need to:

1. Secure the adhesive tape tightly along the cut line to prevent the teeth from damaging the front part of the coating.2. Using a sharp knife, cut through the laminated coating and the layer of chips underneath along the cut line. Thus, the saw will cut the inner layers of chipboard, affecting the coating only tangentially.3. When working, place the hand saw under very acute angle to the surface of the board.4. Perform cutting with electric tools with minimal feed.5. Using a sharp knife, cut off the resulting part thin layer coating edges at an angle of 45 .6. Grind the cut with a fine file, processing the cut in the direction from the edges to the center.

To prevent the edge of the sawn chipboard from forming chips and cracks during further operation, it must be protected with special overlays. This can be a self-adhesive melamine tape, a C-shaped overlay edge, or a T-shaped edge.

Do it yourself or order it?

A custom cut will be smoother

  • Cut the slabs yourself using available hand tools
  • Tools and materials
  • How to cut chipboard without chipping?
  • Figure cutting
  • What not to cut chipboard

If you have at least once tried to cut chipboard at home, then you know for sure that this work is by no means easy and requires not only skill, but also the presence good tool. Laminated chipboard is especially difficult to process; when cutting it, many chips often form. That is why many craftsmen, faced with such a problem, come to the conclusion that it is better to cut chipboard when purchasing, especially since many trading organizations provide similar services and the price is quite reasonable.

Chipboard sawing is carried out using precise format-cutting machines, which will help obtain workpieces of a given size and shape.

Modern models allow smooth sawing of slab materials not only in horizontal and vertical directions, but also at an angle.

In addition to cutting sheets, they will help you calculate and provide several options for competent and economical cutting in the form of a visual video file. sheet material(using special computer programs) and, if necessary, perform edging. However, if for some reason you prefer to do this work yourself, you will have to do some preparatory work before cutting the chipboard.

Tools and materials

If possible, it is best to cut chipboard with a hand router using homemade guides. This method is not very convenient when cutting large sheets, because when working with this tool you need a table. In addition, with this method it is necessary to change cutters frequently. But as a result, you will get cleanly processed, “trimmed” edges.

An electric jigsaw is the most popular tool for cutting chipboard.

Some craftsmen use a jigsaw in their work, however, in the absence of skill, it is difficult to make an even cut, and chips may form.

You can try installing a bimetallic blade with teeth pointed inward, designed for laminate, on a jigsaw. When cutting with a jigsaw, you should increase the speed, with a small feed, so that breaks do not form.

If such methods do not suit you, then to cut chipboard at home, we will prepare for work:

  • a hacksaw with fine teeth (the one designed for metal work is best). In this case, the teeth must be set apart by 1/2 the thickness of the blade and be hardened
  • paper adhesive tape
  • file for roughing cut line
  • sandpaper to finish the cut line.

How to cut chipboard without chipping?

Before we start cutting chipboard, especially laminated chipboard, we cut a line along which we will cut with a sharp tool and glue paper tape with an adhesive layer along it. This will help minimize damage to the decorative chipboard layer.

To ensure that there are as few chips as possible, it is necessary to direct the movement of the hacksaw at an acute angle to the surface (no more than 30°). Movements should be smooth, without excessive pressure on the plate or sudden jerks.

If chips still cannot be avoided, we process the cut first with a file, working in the direction from the edges to the center, and then with fine-grained sandpaper. You can also mask all defects by using, where possible, a flexible profile.

Figure cutting

It is even more difficult to obtain curved surfaces of a given configuration at home, and you will have to spend additional money on purchasing a router that will help you get rid of chips and nicks formed when you cut chipboard.

Price for manual frezer may vary significantly depending on the manufacturer, power, availability additional functions. If you do not plan to produce furniture professionally, then it is advisable to purchase an inexpensive model.

To cut chipboard you need to follow these steps:

  1. Having marked the contours of the required part on a sheet of chipboard, we cut it out with a jigsaw, trying to cut just a couple of millimeters from the intended cutting line
  2. we make templates of the design radius from fiberboard or plywood and carefully sand the ends with sandpaper
  3. Having attached the template to the part to be finished, clamp it with clamps and process it with a hand-held copying cutter with a bearing, removing excess material exactly to the intended line.

In this case, it does not matter which cutter (with two or four knives is used). The only condition is that the knives must cover the entire thickness of the cut being processed.

How to cut chipboard?

After processing, all that remains is to glue the edge onto the part. Watch the video to see how this is done:

What not to cut chipboard

If the volume of work is large enough and the quality requirements are low, some craftsmen advise sawing chipboard at home using a grinder (angle grinder, commonly called an angle grinder). In doing so, they use a disk designed for working with wood. To make cutting easier, a guide bar is secured along the cutting line using clamps. Cutting chipboard using a grinder can sometimes be seen in the video.

Attention, important! This method is absolutely unacceptable, since the likelihood of injury during operation is very high, especially if large-diameter discs are used and the protective casing is removed from the grinder.

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How to cut a pipe evenly with a grinder?

When working with construction or plumbing tasks, you need to know how to cut a pipe evenly with a grinder. In this article we will look at quick and easy ways of how to properly cut a pipe with a grinder so that the result is perfect.

Cutting pipe at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees

If you need to cut a pipe at an angle of 45 degrees, which is often required when laying water and heating pipes. Often steel and cast iron pipes that have a cylindrical shape are used. IN installation work Rectangular or profile pipes are used. However, you should cut the pipe correctly with a grinder so that you can easily connect it later. Therefore, you should carefully mark the pipe.

Some craftsmen try to mark the cutting area using a tape measure, but we warn you that the result will most likely be negative. And for positive result, consider the following recommendation from professionals.

Take a sheet of paper or cardboard, preferably A4, fold it diagonally and wrap it around the pipe where you plan to straight cut. The edges of the paper must be absolutely aligned with each other. And the side of the paper that is closer to the end of the pipe was perpendicular to the axis. Then mark a cutting line in a circle.

If you need to cut exactly at an angle of 90 degrees, then solve the problem quickly using paper or masking tape. Wrap it around the pipe so that the ends match. Make an even mark and saw off.

How to cut a profile pipe evenly?

Experts advise using it when cutting profile pipe square To do this, apply the square to the sides one by one, and smooth movements rotate and mark. After the steps, secure the pipe and cut. Prepare yourself a template that will be useful in the future and will save time. It is better to carry out the action with a grinder, so the cut will be smoother.

How to cut cast iron pipe?

When working with cast iron pipe, keep in mind that it is a fragile material. Therefore, we will find a way to cut such metal without damage.

Before starting work, make notes for the cut, as in working with steel pipes. Submit wooden beam for support. Run a grinder around the circumference of the pipe, making small cuts. Then take the chisels, insert them into the groove and hit them hard with a hammer. Please note that Bakelite-based cutting discs are used to cut cast iron pipes.

If you don’t have a grinder at hand to cut a cast-iron sewer pipe or other purposes, use a hacksaw, chisels or special pipe cutters.

How to cut a gas pipe?

Cutting a gas pipe is a dangerous action, so it is best to leave it to professionals. But if you are confident in your abilities, then use a grinder, welding, hacksaw, or gas welding to cut metal.

Trimming instructions:

  • Before work, turn off the gas supply riser. Then release the rest of the gas from the pipe. To do this, light the gas in the burners and wait for it to go out.
  • After these steps, cut. Using a welding method, the metal base burns when exposed to high temperature. The result is fast and effective. But remember that for pruning or rooting gas pipes Again, experience is needed.

Methods for cutting large diameter pipes

For cutting large diameter pipes, such as sewer pipes, there are a number of reliable tools available. Next, let's look at some of them in detail:

  • The grinder is inexpensive and affordable option, but is considered not the safest to work with such materials. If you decide to use this method, be careful and use protective equipment.
  • A roller machine (pipe cutter) is a tool adapted for such manipulations. The device is attached and material removal begins. The clamping force is adjusted using mechanical devices. It is important to note that machine models differ in shape, so before use, consider the size relationship with the pipe.
  • Gas cutting is the most popular option for cutting larger diameter pipes, sheet metal. The cut occurs due to the action of a high intensity flame, the metal melts and leaves the cut zone with a gas flow. This method is convenient and effective.

How to cut a pipe lengthwise correctly?

A quick way to cut a pipe lengthwise using a grinder:

  • Pay main attention to the markings.
  • For this case, use painting thread, which is widely used when marking walls.
  • Before starting work, secure the pipe and, using small movements, carefully saw the pipe.
  • It’s better not to rush, but delicately and slowly process parts of the pipe, so cutting disc will not jump off the marking lines. Remember safety precautions.

How to cut thin-walled pipes?

Thin-walled pipes are made of non-ferrous metals: aluminum, copper.

How to cut laminated chipboard with a jigsaw without chipping

Such work should be done delicately, as there is a high probability of deformation of the material. For cutting, fillers such as sand are used. Actions can be carried out using a grinder or a special machine.

To summarize, we emphasize that cutting metal pipes The process is complex, but every willing master can strengthen it. Using the advice of professionals, you can easily cope with cutting pipes of various sizes and materials. Also, do not forget to process the edges of the pipes after cutting with a file or sandpaper. And the most important thing to remember when starting such actions is safety precautions. When starting work, wear a special suit (casing), mask or goggles closed type. Your hands should also be reliably protected from sparks, so use thick gloves.

Cutting panels from chipboard and other materials

  • Any home craftsman sooner or later he faces the need to cut chipboard. This could be making furniture with your own hands or covering walls. MDF panels or chipboard. As you know, sawing chipboard is not difficult, but making an even cut without chips is not an easy task.

    Do it yourself or order it?

    A custom cut will be smoother

    High-quality sawing of chipboard is difficult to do manually due to big size sheets. The dimensions of a standard slab are 2440x1200, and this is not the limit. However, if you work with chipboard or MDF quite often, it makes sense to get an expensive tool and work for your own pleasure. If you only need to cut a few sheets, you can go two ways:

    • Cut the slabs yourself using available hand tools;
    • Order cutting of chipboard in a specialized workshop.

    What to choose is up to you, and we will consider each of these options.

    Cutting panels at home

    You can also cut with a jigsaw

    It is quite possible to saw a sheet of chipboard or laminated chipboard by hand. True, in this case you are unlikely to be able to avoid the appearance of chips and burrs, but you can try to reduce their number and size.

    There are several rules that should be followed when cutting chipboard panels:

    • Sheets must be cut on a flat, hard surface. For sawing large panels, two large tables(their height should be the same!);
    • in order to prevent chipping, stick adhesive tape or good masking tape along the cut line, which will hold the edges of the laminated layer;
    • For sawing with a hand saw, select a blade with a grinding tooth. The saw teeth should be sharpened well. You need to drive the saw with slight pressure, at an acute angle to the surface, constantly monitoring its position;
    • To cut chipboards and laminated chipboards using a jigsaw, the cut line should be scratched or even cut through. It is best to use a sharp knife to cut through the durable laminate layer;
    • install a file with fine reverse teeth;
    • select maximum speed the jigsaw is running, turn off the “pendulum”;
    • fasten an even strip along the cut line and move the jigsaw strictly along it;
    • The jigsaw should be pressed firmly against the surface being cut.

    All these recommendations help to correctly saw and cut chipboard, but chipping, nevertheless, cannot be completely avoided. Therefore, if it is so important to get a perfectly smooth, even cut line, without chips or saw marks, you should contact specialized workshops where they will cut out any shape from a sheet of chipboard for a reasonable fee.

    Precision and quality

    Accurate cutting is the key to success

    Format cutting machines for sawing laminated chipboards and chipboards have high quality cutting, which allows you to reduce subsequent costs for processing cuts (grinding, removing chips and burrs, and so on). That is why such machines can be used to cut any complexity and configuration, which means almost inexhaustible possibilities in furniture production. Fantasy children's furniture, comfortable tabletops computer desks, figured through carved decorations in the doors kitchen facades– all this is possible using machines.

    There are two types of panel cutting machines:

    • vertical, which are a strong, rigid, vibration-resistant welded bed (frame), installed vertically with a backward deviation of 50°, with guides located above and below, along which the saw beam moves. It is a bracket for the saw unit, which moves along the beam down and up, and also rotates 90°, which allows you to make both vertical and horizontal cuts. The cutting precision is amazing. A special scoring unit is used for sawing laminated chipboard, as well as hard, corrugated or porous boards. The rotation speed of the saw reaches 15 thousand revolutions per minute;
    • horizontal, consisting of a table for the stove, a carriage for moving the saw along the saw mechanism and the saw mechanism itself, consisting of one or two cutting units. The cutting units themselves are equipped with a main and scoring saw. The principle of operation is simple: the main saw deeply cuts through the chipboard, and the scoring saw accurately and clearly cuts the bottom edge (veneer or laminated surface). The saw unit can also be tilted up to 45°.

    The miter saw is a “domesticated” and greatly reduced copy of the horizontal saw. It will not be possible to cut a wide sheet of chipboard or laminated chipboard on it, but it can handle small parts quite well.

    We cut other types of panels

    MDF panels also need to be cut evenly

    Cutting MDF differs from cutting chipboard panels. The high density of the material quickly dulls the saw teeth, so it often has to be sharpened or completely replaced. Unfinished MDF can be cut using a regular machine, but laminated board requires a machine with an additional bottom saw.

    Cutting panels from chipboard and other materials

    This is especially important when cutting slabs with a double-sided finish.

    Fiberboard can be cut at home using an electric or hand jigsaw. Of course, the file must be sharp, with a fine tooth; the jigsaw must be set to maximum speed. Install the fiberboard horizontally on a support that should not interfere with sawing (between two tables or chairs, for example), secure it with clamps if necessary.

    The electric jigsaw should be held with both hands, pressed firmly against the surface, and moved smoothly, strictly along the marking line, without jerking or pressing.

    The same applies to working with a hand jigsaw.

    In cases where it is necessary to cut many sheets of material, it is more convenient to contact a specialized company. This will save you time and effort.

    Video on cutting chipboard using a circular saw

    It is not always easy to cut chipboard beautifully and without chips. See how to do it correctly:

    How to cut laminated chipboard without chipping

    So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to write another analytical note. This time the topic is sawing laminated chipboard without chipping.

    There is a fairly fair opinion that it is possible to cut laminated chipboard cleanly only on professional equipment(that is, a format-cutting machine).

    The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades located strictly on the same axis. The first one cuts the chipboard, the second one cuts it right through.

    The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive ones))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR AN Amateur.

    Of course, if you decide to make a cabinet with your own hands. then it’s better to order a sheet cut (five square meters piece) in the workshop, and then calmly assemble it. BUT WHAT TO DO IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE IN THE CALCULATIONS AND YOU NEED TO CUT A PIECE OFF. I don’t want to drag myself back to the workshop, but I need to cut.

    This article aims to answer this question. The review of options will go from simple to complex. Unfortunately, not all methods will be illustrated (please forgive me in advance), I will try to compensate for this shortcoming with text????

    Method 1 - Scratch

    The old-fashioned way. Previously it was used for sawing Soviet laminated chipboard coated with a thick layer of varnish. Nowadays it is rarely used. Using a ruler, use an awl or a simple nail to scratch a marking line to the thickness of the decorative coating.

    After this, we saw along the line, trying to ensure that the edges of the saw teeth fall exactly into the scratch and not go past it. You can cut with either a jigsaw or a hand saw.

    In principle, in the photo on the right you can see that all the chips remained on the piece without a scratch, and they did not go beyond the scratched line.

    Detailed tutorial on this method

    The cut is much cleaner than when sawing without a scratch, but chips do occur. It is difficult to keep the tool strictly along the line. So slow.

    Short cuts of acceptable quality can be made a simple jigsaw. To do this, several conditions must be met.

    Firstly, the file must be with minimum size teeth (that is, for metal) and a new one. In this case, on one side (where the teeth enter the material) the cut will be almost clean. On the opposite side, there will be chips, but relatively few.

    Secondly, the tool must be fed smoothly, without pressure. The speed should not be set to maximum (slightly above average.

    The disadvantage of this method is that it is quite difficult to maintain the strict straightness of the cut, as well as the presence of a small number of chips.

    Method 3 - Circular saw

    To work with a circular saw, we need a “finishing” saw blade (again, with a fine tooth). It is more convenient to make long straight cuts with circular saws than with a jigsaw. But in this case, much more chips are formed (the side where the teeth cut into the material (top) is usually clean. Pieces break off from the opposite side (bottom)).

    You can cut like a free-flying saw (it’s quite difficult to guide exactly along the line). It is difficult to cut several identical parts - there is a lot of hassle with markings.

    Same with a saw fixed to the table. When using guides, sawing is much more convenient. Both hands are free. You can use a guide, which will increase the cutting accuracy and allow you to stamp identical parts.

    Even if you use a finishing disc, there will be a lot of chips on one side.

    Method 4 - Sawing with trimming

    This is a modification of working with circular saw. Ideally, it will require plunge saw. but, in principle, you can get by with an ordinary circular saw. To work, we need a ruler (tire), which is fixed to the workpiece with clamps. It can be purchased or homemade (in the photo there is a simple circular with a homemade tire).

    The whole trick is to, by analogy with a cutting machine, make two cuts strictly along the same line.

    Cutting along a tire (long ruler) will help us with this. The tire is placed along the marking line, after which we first make the first cut, cutting the laminate, with a depth of about 6-10 mm.

    In this case, the teeth run almost parallel to the surface of the laminate, without tearing out pieces of it.

    If you enlarge the photo it will look something like this

    The second cut is through. At the same time, as we remember, no chips are formed at the point where the tooth enters the material. And at the exit point, the laminate has already been cut off and there is nothing to prick.

    This is a good way to trim incorrectly marked parts, but you can’t cut the entire cabinet this way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount quite comparable to the formatter (it also, secretly, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with markings. Only straight cuts can be made.

    Provides the cleanest possible edge to the workpiece, the quality is no different from the formatter, often even better.

    With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, retreating 2-3 mm from the marking line, and then align the line according to the template (I usually use a second piece of laminated chipboard, sawed on a format saw, of a suitable size). The cutter must be copying, that is, with a bearing.
    Very clean cut. Possibility of making curved cuts, that is, making multiple radius parts. including several completely identical ones. Disadvantages - a lot of hassle: the need for precise marking, preliminary filing of workpieces, setting a template or tire for the router, that is, it is not very suitable for mass use.

    LDSP is a very common chipboard covered with a paper-resin film, which is also finely sanded. Lamination occurs at a temperature of 140-210 degrees Celsius and at a pressure of 25-28 MPa. After the entire lamination procedure, the surface turns out to be beautiful, durable, resistant to thermal influences and mechanical damage, which gives the chipboard a very attractive appearance when making furniture and when finishing the interior of a room.

    A large number of craftsmen prefer to make furniture themselves and for this they buy high-quality laminated chipboard from manufacturers or in ordinary construction stores. A wide range of colors when laminating the surface allows you to easily choose required material. Textures are also varied: it can be embossed to look like wood spores or shagreen, or smooth, and also imitate natural stone or wood.

    But in order to make an exclusive interior or unique furniture yourself, it is not enough to simply purchase laminated chipboard. The laminated coating has a very fragile structure. If not correct actions The cutting of laminated chipboard turns out to be very ragged, and deep cavities appear on the edges. In order to cut laminated chipboard without cracks and chips, you need to know a few tricks when making a cut.

    Basic rules for cutting laminated chipboard

    Cut laminated chipboard at home you can use a circular saw, a jigsaw, or a hand saw with fine teeth. For all work to be successful, you should:

    • Secure the adhesive tape very tightly along the main cut line, which does not allow the teeth to harm the front part of the surface.
    • Using a sharp knife, make a cut along the cutting line in the laminated coating. In this case, the saw will cut the inner layers of the chipboard, having only a tangential effect on the coating.
    • Pilou manual type, when working, should be positioned at a very acute angle relative to the covering of the board.
    • Sawing using an electric tool with minimal feed.
    • On this part, cut off the surface edge layer at an angle of 45 degrees with a thin knife.
    • Sanding the cut area should be done with a small file, sanding the cut in the direction from the edges to the center.

    To subsequently protect the surface from cracks and chips, you should use overlays: C-shaped overlay edge, self-adhesive melamine tape, T-shaped edge.

    Everyone knows that laminated chipboard is our chipboard, which is covered with a paper-resin film. The lamination process takes place under special conditions: pressure 25-28 MPa, temperature 140-210 °C. The surface is durable, smooth, and beautiful. The laminated chipboard coating is very resistant to mechanical stress and thermal stress. Because of these qualities, laminated chipboard has become simply necessary for furniture production and for interior decoration.

    Some craftsmen like to make furniture themselves. They acquire good laminated chipboard quality from manufacturers or in special construction stores. Since the color range of laminated chipboard is very rich, you can easily choose required material. The surface of laminated chipboard also has the most varied structure, since it can be smooth, imitate wood of different species or stone.

    To make special furniture or unique interior with your own hands, it’s not enough to just buy laminated chipboard and draw it into details. The laminated chipboard coating is very thin, its structure is fragile. If you cut laminated chipboard roughly and incorrectly, the cut will turn out ugly, torn, and cavities will form on the edges. To be able to cut laminated chipboard correctly and not get chips and cracks, you need to know some little “tricks” of the job.

    Rules for sawing laminated chipboards

    For cutting laminated chipboard at home they use hand saw with fine teeth, circular saw or an electric jigsaw. To complete the job without any problems, you need to do the following:

    1. Secure the adhesive tape tightly exactly along the cut line. The tape will prevent the saw teeth from damaging the coating film.
    2. Use a sharp knife to cut through the coating and the layer underneath along the cutting line. In this case, the saw will only cut the inner layer of chipboard and touch the coating only tangentially.
    3. The hand saw, when working with it, should be placed at an angle (very sharp) to the surface of the slab.
    4. When cutting with a power tool, you need to use a minimum feed.
    5. When the part is cut out, you need to cut the edge of the coating at an angle of 45° with a sharp knife.
    6. The cut is polished using a fine file, the cut is processed towards the center from the edges.

    The edge of the sawn laminated chipboard should be covered with a special overlay to prevent any chips or cracks on it in the future. To protect the cut, you can use self-adhesive melamine tape, or a C-shaped edge, or a T-shaped edge.



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