Finnish doors began their victorious march across the expanses of the post-Soviet countries at the end of the last century. People began to trust what low price can stand high quality. White paneled doors from Finnish manufacturers, who continue to not only maintain, but also expand the niche of their products, are familiar to everyone. Most people want to have strong, reliable, comfortable and durable doors.
Finnish doors began their victorious march across our country more than 10 years ago. The use of environmentally friendly materials and the most modern technologies, allows us to produce high-quality and high-quality products designed for a long service life without losing their consumer qualities.
The range and color range of Finnish doors currently supplied are so wide that they can satisfy the most sophisticated taste of the buyer. This interior doors, doors for saunas, doors for bathrooms, fire doors, entrance doors and others.
Despite this diversity, interior doors are still in greatest and most consistent demand. Previously, the overwhelming majority of Finnish interior doors supplied to our country were smooth frame doors with honeycomb filling or paneled doors made of solid pine. Usually such doors were white or gray. Now veneered and melamine doors have been added to them. Veneered doors are finished with veneer of valuable wood species - oak, beech, hornbeam, mahogany. Melamine doors are covered with melamine, which imitates the veneer of certain types of wood - walnut, cherry, pear, etc.
All types of Finnish doors have one distinctive design feature, which distinguishes them favorably from the bulk of other doors. This is availability pretend strip or a special protrusion on the door leaf that closes the gap between the leaf and the door frame. This design makes it possible to improve the heat and sound insulation of Finnish doors. In addition, the ledge door leaf makes possible errors during installation invisible.
The set of interior doors includes a door frame with embedded hinges and a door leaf with installed mortise lock, which allows you to minimize damage that occurs during the installation of doors.
Finnish interior doors are adapted to Russian conditions. Due to the thickness of the door frame of 92 mm, they are suitable for installation in any interior partitions. The height of the door frame of Finnish doors is 210 mm, which is several centimeters higher Russian standard. Therefore, sometimes it becomes necessary to trim the door a little.
Before purchasing Finnish interior doors, determine which doors you need - left or right. If door hinges located to your left - this is the left door. These doors have left-handed locks. And if the door hinges are on the right, then these are right-handed doors with a right-hand lock. You must be in the room into which the door opens.
Installation of Finnish doors.
The door block consists of a frame and one- or two-door leaves. According to their design and functional purpose, doors are divided into panel and frame, external, internal, balcony, etc., with and without a threshold, with and without a transom, glazed and solid...
Panel doors consist of a frame, filling and sheathing. Frame completed made of timber (slats), cladding - from glued plywood, veneer, solid fibreboard, filling - from small-sized lumber, waste plywood and solid fibreboard, paper honeycomb. foam plastics, etc. The door leaf is framed along the perimeter with wooden trims.
Frame doors (panelled, framed) consist of frame (bars) and filler (panels). Glass, boards, plywood, fiberboard and particle boards can be used as panels.
According to the design of the door leaves, doors are divided into single-leaf, double-leaf with leaves of the same and different widths, and according to the opening method - on the right with the door leaf opening counterclockwise and on the left with the door leaf opening clockwise.
Front and interior doors can be solid or glazed. Often near door blocks top part(transom) is glazed and fixed tightly in the frame, or glass is inserted into the door instead of panels.
You can design the door yourself, order it from a craftsman, or purchase it in a store. More durable doors are made of oak or beech, more beautiful ones are made of mahogany or ash.
Installation of door frames and doors. When installing the door frame front door the block is lifted and installed in the opening on a lining made of roofing felt and mastic. Last time door frame Most often they are installed on polyurethane foam. It is necessary to ensure that the lower bar occupies a strictly horizontal position. Vertical and horizontal elements are installed using a square, plumb line and level. The plumb line must pass exactly through the middle of the top side and the intersection of the diagonals of the box. The absence of distortions during installation is evidenced by the equality of the diagonals. This can be achieved using wedges, lifting one side or another of the box. After leveling vertically and horizontally, the box is attached to the wall at three points on each side: at a distance of 1 m from the floor and 30 cm from the top and bottom of the box. They drill or punch holes in the wall (against the side of the box) and hammer them into them. wooden corks to a depth of 40-50mm. install the box and drive nails into the corks, the heads are recessed into the wood by at least 2 mm. Instead of nails, you can use steel pins with a diameter of 8-10 mm; the diameter of the holes for them should be 2-3 mm less than the diameter of the pins.
When installing, the gaps between the wall and the frame are caulked using a dry or wet method. With the dry method, the gaps are filled with dry tow, slag or glass wool and sealed. When wet, the materials are moistened in gypsum dough (it is prepared in small portions - from 0.2 to 0.5 l). As it hardens, wet plaster expands and presses more tightly against the wall and beam, protecting the gap from blowing through.
When installing paneled trim outer door made from simple and figured bars. Kalevki are selected on a harness or on separate bars. They form a groove 15-20mm deep. where panels up to 50 mm thick are inserted.
Internal doors, depending on their purpose, can be solid or lattice. Frames for internal doors are less massive and consist of three bars - two vertical and an upper one. When installing doors in interior walls openings are made without quarters. The door frame in the partitions is pulled out to one side of the doorway to the thickness of the plaster so that during installation the platband is adjacent to the frame and the wall. When the thickness of the partition is less than the width of the door frame, nail a block with a thickness equal to the difference in the thicknesses of the partition and frame. If the thickness of the partition is greater than the width of the door frame, a block of appropriate thickness is nailed with inside boxes.
If, during installation, you additionally connect the door bars with dowels (wooden pins), the door becomes stronger. The diameter of the holes for the dowels is 10-15mm. Pins are made from hardwood. The dowels are fastened using glue.
The doors are installed on hinges selected according to size. Most often, two hinges are installed on the door leaf, but in some cases, when the door is made of heavy wood, three hinges are installed. Under no circumstances should hinges be installed on the horizontal bars of the door trim.
Binders and doors are hung on hinges different designs, more often - half-hinged and hinged. Half-hinged hinges consist of two card halves; in one a rod or axis is attached, in the other a hinge in the form of a cap is attached. Such loops are always removable; their cards can be easily separated. To reduce friction between them, a ring is put on the rod, usually bronze (can be copper or brass). Each card has three to four holes for screws (a hinge has six to eight holes), and sometimes more. The height of such loops is 75-50 mm, the width of the card is 30-45 mm.
Hinge hinges are made blind and removable; the latter have a tip screwed onto one end of the rod. The height of the loops is 75-25 mm, the width of the card is 30-35 mm. Binders and doors are installed on such hinges. Hinges smaller sizes used for vents. The dimensions of the loops are determined based on the massiveness of the products, the sizes of the bars of the boxes and straps.
The screw shaft should fit fairly tightly into the hinge hole, and its head into the countersunk hole. When the head of the screw protrudes above the countersunk hole, the doors will spring back and not close tightly.
When installing, screws with flat or countersunk, semicircular or semi-countersunk heads are used: the first type of screws is for all types of work, the second and third are for fastening handles, add-on locks and other devices, that is, where the protruding heads will not interfere with the tight rebate of the sashes door frames.
When installing or replacing collapsible hinges, you must remember that the hinges can be left-handed or right-handed - they are not interchangeable. New loops should have the same direction as the old ones.
When installing, to determine the direction of the door, you need to open it towards yourself - the door will be left-handed or right-handed, depending on which hand is on the door handle. There is a rule to make it easier to remember: right door opens counterclockwise.
The work of installing hinges is carried out in the following sequence: the hinge is placed on the sash or door at a distance from the edge, equal to length loops. Mark the places for the loops. Using a chisel, cut wood to the thickness of the hinge card and attach it with screws so that its axis is parallel to the edge of the block. Having secured the hinges on the sash or door, they are opened, placed against the frame, pressing tightly against the top bar, and outlined along revealed cards, leaving marks under the loops at quarters. Based on the risks, select the wood for the hinge maps, mark the locations for the screws, install each hinge with one screw, and check how the sash or door closes. If necessary, make corrections and strengthen the hinges with screws.
When installing doors in a frame, it is especially important to fit the door to the quarter. A hung door should not spring when opening and closing, but should rotate freely on its hinges.
The handles are also secured with screws. The gaps between the door frames and the wall are covered with slotted boards.
After installation door block the fabric is removed from the loops so as not to damage it during finishing works. Upon completion of the finishing of the room, door blocks in the openings of plastered walls and partitions are lined with platbands at the level of the wall plane.
Installation of the finished kit. A door set usually consists of three elements: a door leaf with a built-in lock and latch, a door frame with a door stopper and hinges, and trims fitted to a miter joint. Finnish doors have a strong reputation in our market; they are seriously competed by French products, which has a special grace.
Modern interior door can be made of chipboard or fibreboard, aluminum and plastic (PVC), etc. Door frames are also made of different materials.
The finished door kit contains the most hard work made at the factory. The jambs and lintels are profiled and drilled for assembly. The doors have hinges installed and the lock is in place. All that remains is to assemble the components and install the kit in a new doorway or in an old opening from which the door and frame fastening have been removed. The assembly principles are the same for all door sets. The difference lies in the completeness of the assembly of the supplied package. The box may be a set of separate elements, separate platbands, or maybe it’s all already assembled.
Before starting, measure the height and width of the opening, as well as the thickness of the wall. Door frames are supplied in sets depending on the wall thickness. Before installation, you need to decide which side of the wall the door will open to and whether it will open to the left or to the right. It is very important when installing a door block - and this depends on your qualifications - to place the frame correctly in the doorway. If the frame is slightly skewed or does not fit tightly into the opening, the door will not open and close correctly. And you are unlikely to be able to install the door without damaging its appearance. So, you need to start from the loop side of the box. If you installed this jamb correctly and fit it tightly, then install top bar and the opposite jamb is not at all difficult.
The canvas, platbands and parts of the frame facing the room have already been finished (paint, varnish, veneer, etc.), but the wood facing the inner edge of the opening is usually not processed.
The door frame is assembled as follows: first, connect three sections of the door frame and door casing, passing the plastic tenons on the jambs into the plastic grooves on the lintel. Then press the components together until their corners connect correctly. The box is fastened by inserting bolts into drilled holes and tightening them with nuts.
After this, the assembled box is placed in the doorway. The spaces between the jambs and the wall should be the same on both sides. The platband is pressed tightly against the wall. Using a plumb line or level, make sure that the hinge jamb is plumb and does not deviate to the side.
Working from the other side of the doorway, insert the seal between the hinge jamb and the wall at the level of all three hinge pins. Holes are drilled in the untreated surface of the hinge jamb at the level of each hinge. If the wall is concrete or brick, then drill the wall and insert plugs into the holes. Then install the jamb to the wall with No. 10 screws. The screws must be long enough to grip the jamb, seal and penetrate the wall at least 25 mm
Doors are hung as follows: the door is lowered at right angles to the plane of the opening with three hinge sockets screwed to the door onto the corresponding hinge pins of the jamb. Install handles and handle caps on both sides of the door, close the door, adjust the position of the loose jamb, and then insert weather stripping between the jamb and the wall. The second jamb is secured to the wall in the same way.
In order to cut the trim to size, the inner edge of one of its sections is inserted into the corresponding groove in the door stopper of the frame. If a gap forms between the platband and the wall, then the surface of the platband is adjusted with a plane.
Do the same with other sections.
The platbands are strengthened during installation as follows: three sections of the platbands are connected in the same way as the sections of the box; spread the necessary glue (PVA, Liquid, Nails, Dap, the Nail, etc.) on the untreated surface of the frame along the jambs and lintel, then push the assembled trim into the door frame. During installation, the inner sides of the platband are firmly pressed against the groove of the assembled box. Cut three spacers from a block (or boards) the width of the doorway. It is necessary to place a soft cloth under the ends of the bars so as not to damage them. varnished surface clypeus. Then spacers are wedged between the sections of the casing lubricated with glue. This will hold the trim securely in place until the glue dries.
Entrance and interior doors. Finnish doors
Finnish doors have been quite popular for many years. Previously, they were only available to some people. But now they can be found absolutely everywhere: in cafes, restaurants, in apartments. These doors have already managed to occupy a certain niche of this market and study the Russian consumer.
Finnish doors have managed to show that they are very reliable and of high quality. They worked on the manufacturing technology of these doors for a very long time. And this brought the production of Finnish doors to a new - European level. They became sold in all countries.
One of the differences between Finnish doors is their strict design in a palette with fairly cool shades. The abundance of different models allows each buyer to find what he needs. But some people don't want to buy Finnish doors because they think their design is a little "stingy".
The most important advantage over other doors is ease of installation. All necessary holes are made by the manufacturer itself. The width of the door frame is 9 cm, the height is 210 cm. These parameters are suitable for Russian apartments, although sometimes you have to trim the door a little or increase the opening itself.
If you decide to give preference to purchasing Finnish doors, then when purchasing you need to look at the certificate of conformity issued to the manufacturing company and whether it has a corresponding seal and a stamp on the end of the door itself.
- Price and Quality are current
Have you decided to buy interior doors? then think about a few things: the price that suits you, the right option door opening, design, dimensions and the presence of additional doors similar in design to doors.
It wouldn’t hurt to immediately think through the design of the doors. It is necessary to take into account that Sami wooden doors are expensive, but at the same time, they can become a real decoration of the interior. The elegance, variety of shapes and service life of such doors (massive doors can be repaired) speaks for itself. If your goal is to buy interior doors that are durable and flawless in operation, you need to know the manufacturers’ strict adherence to all cycles technological process during their manufacture. The quality of the materials used by the craftsmen also plays an important role. To mark high quality, some companies put their logo on the product. 
Interior doors made from combined materials such as MDF will be cheaper. They look great, are durable and are virtually equal in quality wooden door. But the plus is that their reaction to changes in humidity in the room is much less. The price of an MDF door depends on the type of wood veneer used for finishing. At the same time, the type of material does not affect the quality of the door itself; it gives the door leaf a shade and texture.
There are also hollow, so-called honeycomb filling, doors. The outer panel is specially formed. Such as masonite interior doors are less durable and require more careful operation. They exist both already covered with veneer, and simply in a primed form. The latter are suitable for people with more creative approach, because they allow you to paint the interior as you like.
The door frame can be made from either solid wood or chipboard or MDF. It is wood, despite its popularity among buyers, that is less practical. The array can become damaged over time, and there is also a risk of changes in linear dimensions. Modern materials, made to look like wood, not only exceed physical properties array, but also by appearance, sometimes superior to natural wood. At the same time, the technology for installing boxes of different materials will be completely different.
Certification is not provided for interior doors. And it is quite difficult to determine the quality of the material from which the door leaf is made by eye. Experts recommend buying a door from trusted, serious companies, or from an already established and proven brand.
Processed
At the end of the 20th century, imported goods began to arrive in Russia in large numbers, including Finnish interior doors. They had noticeable differences from similar door designs that were previously manufactured in the country. Further, all doors with a similar design began to be called “Finnish doors”.
Such doors have three features that distinguish them from others:
1. There is a porch. The rebate is the part of the quarter (or rebate) edge that forms a projection above the end of the door. The edge creates another additional angle when abutting, which provides
- increased sound protection of doors,
- reduces drafts.
2. The door is equipped with embedded fittings. The universal latch lock and hinges are cut into place at the factory during manufacture. Any lever handle can fit the lock. If desired, a hole is made under the handle and a screw is placed to close the door from the inside. Due to the presence of a quarter on the canvas, only screw-in hinges are cut into.
3. The door frame of this type of door is sawn at the factory at an angle of 45 degrees and is manufactured required size. The box also contains a lock strike plate and hinges. These operations, performed at the factory, facilitate and speed up the installation of doors; you need to assemble the frame and then mount it in the existing opening.
Follow the instructions, be precise with measurements and check the results. Please read the instructions carefully before proceeding with installation. The external door is intended primarily for use as an entrance door in private homes year-round residence, mansions and townhouses, in buildings where thermal insulation qualities are required.
It is strictly forbidden to install doors in a house under construction or in a room where wet work is being carried out (for example, concreting a floor, pouring screed, etc.). Excessive moisture can cause wood to warp and paint to peel. In addition, the fittings, including the lock body, may become rusty.
ATTENTION! When installing entrance doors in the cold season, you must use certified mounting foams, specifically intended for use at low temperatures - information with specific recommendations for use is usually printed on the cylinder by the manufacturer.
Always install moisture barrier (bitumen strip, etc.) between the horizontal base and the threshold.
Never install the box directly on a concrete floor or screed! Use, for example, bitumen strip, etc.
Doors should be installed in places with a sufficiently long roof overhang or canopy over the door, which will protect the door surface from moisture and sunlight.
When determining the size of the canopy, you should be guided by the following formula: the width of the canopy D must be at least half of the height of the canopy (the distance from the bottom of the door to the bottom of the canopy, see diagram).
Entrance door installation steps:
Stage 1
Check that the base under the threshold is horizontal.
Install the ebb in the mounting opening and place the assembled box on it
Coat the seam with sealing compound.
Low tide can be installed later. In this case, bring the ebb tide under the threshold
and glue it, installing the ebb in the groove intended for it in the threshold.
Stage 2
Secure the box in the mounting opening using wedges, inserting them above the mounting holes of the box so that the side of the box with hinges is exactly vertical (both parallel and prependicular to the plane of the wall). Use two wedges for each mounting hole in the box, insert one wedge from the outside, the other from the inside. Check with a spirit level that the box is level.
Make sure there is enough space around the perimeter of the box for the seal
and secure the hinge side of the box to the wall with mounting screws.
Stage 3
Install anti-burglary pins in the door. Do not screw them in completely, leave a margin of 10mm. Hang the door leaf on its hinges.
Tighten the anti-burglary pins as far as they will go, install and tighten the hinge mounting screws.
Stage 4
Make sure the threshold is set horizontally. Align the side of the box with the lock strike plate exactly (both parallel and prependicular to the plane of the wall). Secure the box to the wall with mounting screws.
Stage 5
To adjust the door height, use a hex key. Before adjusting the door sideways, loosen the security pins and mounting screws. Adjust to the side using the adjusting screw provided for this purpose. After adjustment, tighten the anti-burglary pins and mounting screws as far as possible.
Adjusting the hinges of the Jeld-Wen entrance door
The position of the outer door leaf can be adjusted in height and horizontally by adjusting the hinges.
This is especially true, for example, when shrinking a house.
Height adjustment
Tools required: 5 mm hex wrench.
Door adjustment up
- Loosen the upper adjusting screw (1) on all hinges by turning it 2-3 turns with a hexagon.
- By turning the adjusting screws (2) on the bottom of the hinges, set the door to the desired height position.
- Be sure to tighten all hinge screws an equal number of turns to evenly distribute the weight of the door on the hinges.
- Tighten the retaining screws on top of all hinges (1).
Door adjustment down
- Loosen the lower adjusting screw (2) on all hinges except one by 2-3 turns.
- By turning the screw (2) of the remaining hinge counterclockwise, lower the door to the desired height.
- Tighten the adjustment screws (2) of the remaining hinges to the same position to evenly distribute the weight of the door across all hinges.
- Finally, tighten the upper adjustment screws (1) without excessive force.
Horizontal door adjustment
Tools required: 5 mm hexagon, Phillips screwdriver.
Increasing the distance between the door and the door frame on the hinge side
- Tighten the adjusting screws (4) on one of the hinges so that the door leaf is in the desired position. .
- Tighten the adjustment screws (4) on the second hinge (on the remaining hinges) to level the door leaf and distribute the weight of the door evenly.
Reducing the distance between the door and the door frame on the hinge side
- Loosen the mounting screws (3) and the anti-removal pin (5) on all hinges by 2-3 turns.
- Loosen the adjusting screws (4) on one of the hinges so that the door leaf is in the desired position. .
- Loosen the adjustment screws (4) on the second hinge (on the remaining hinges) to level the door leaf and distribute the weight of the door evenly.
- Carefully tighten the screws (3) and anti-removal pins (5).
Stage 6
Does the door close tightly?
The closing tightness can be adjusted using adjustments in the strike plate.
Stage 7
Carefully seal the gap between the wall and the frame, filling it mineral wool. Then coat the gap with a sealing elastic mass to vapor-waterproof the seam. Do not use polyurethane foam, because when it expands, it can deform the door frame and complicate possible subsequent door adjustments.
Instructions for servicing external doors
Painted products
The products are painted with moisture-resistant paints that meet the requirements for resistance to scratches, wear resistance and surface appearance, and which withstand exposure to many household chemicals, grease and solvents.
Cleaning
Use regular ones detergents(non-alkaline), such as dishwashing liquid. To clean mold, use special means to remove mold. Do not use detergents that may scratch or dissolve the painted surface. Avoid, for example, the use of solvents, abrasive powders, metal fiber sponges, etc. Wet the surface from bottom to top, but wash it from top to bottom. Otherwise, streaks from drips may appear on the door. Wipe dry.
Service
Normal cleaning is usually sufficient unless the door is damaged or abnormally worn. To maintain shine, however, it is recommended, after washing, to rub the door surfaces, for example, with car wax.
Touch up
It is best to touch up minor damage with a brush and alkyd or acrylate enamel of a suitable color and gloss level, intended for outdoor use. First check the compatibility of the paint with the original paint material on a small surface, for example, by painting a small area on the edge of the door on the hinge side.
Product quality and warranty conditions for Jed-Wen doors
Jeld-Wen manufactures its products in accordance with the requirements of the unified European standard CE.
What is CE?
The CE mark is a guarantee to the consumer that a given product complies with the essential requirements of a European harmonized standard and can therefore be legally placed on the market.
CE marking has long been mandatory on products such as toys and electronics, but more recently this unified standard has been established for certain building materials.
What does this mean for the consumer?
All CE marked products carry product data in the Declaration of Performance (DoP) format, allowing clear and easy comparisons between similar products and providing the consumer with the information they need to make an informed decision.
The DoP provides key information on the performance characteristics of construction products that have been independently tested and certified by an EU body.
All products subject to these Directives are required to be marked with the CE mark, either on the product itself or on its packaging - the CE logo and a number which indicates the relevant DoP.
Failure of the product to comply with the requirements of the CE standard in terms of curvature of the blade or frame is considered a warranty defect.
We apologize if you encountered a defect in JELD-WEN products! If you find a defect, please contact us and provide your order number. Please note that a defective product cannot be installed or used!
How to measure whether a door leaf is curved?
Place the door leaf on a flat horizontal surface
Measure the distance between the central part of the door leaf and the surface on which it is located (mm)
Allowed curvature of up to 5 mm per door leaf
How to measure if a door frame is warped?
Curvature towards the wall
Place the box (flat) on a horizontal flat surface so that the ends of the box touch the ground.
The allowed curvature of the box in the direction of the wall is 3 mm / per 1 meter (i.e. for a box with a height of 20M and 21M 6 mm per vertical of the box.
Curvature towards the edge of the box
Place the box on its side on a flat, horizontal surface with the ends of the box touching the surface.
Measure the gap between the center of the box and the surface (mm).
The allowed curvature of the box in the direction of the edge is 1.5 mm / per 1 meter (i.e. for a box with a height of 20M and 21M up to 3 mm per one of its verticals)
We are not responsible for product defects resulting from normal wear and tear, improper storage, installation and operation.
Door leaf and a quarter white in Finnish technology has a cutout for a 2014 or 2018 lock, door leaf thickness 38mm.
Mandatory additional equipment for the Finnish door block
1. Lock 2014 with strike plate, with a key for regular use. (standard key fits all 2014 locks).
2. Lock 2018 with strike plate, under the mask (cylinder)
3. Door framePone quarter white(34x70), cut to size with hinges (screw-in) and the mating part of the lock, consisting of 2 long and 1 short bars (without threshold).
Economy class Finnish door design White laminated - the perimeter frame consists of MDF, high-strength cellular honeycomb core, MDF cladding laminated with finishing film
White laminated doors with rebate They are mainly used in office premises, clinics, educational institutions, but also of course in apartments and country houses.
The advantage of a rebated door, which appropriated the name " Finca"First of all, it is convenience and ease of installation,This design of the door block when closed has no visible gaps between the door frame and the leaf,The quarter cover provides good heat and sound insulation, and also hides defects in the installation of the door frame.
At the request of the customer, our specialists can install on Finnish doors following additional elements- (Fender plate, Ventilation grille, Reinforced glass of any size, opening window, both solid and glass, door closer).
The main advantage of such door blocks is that they are always available in stock in Moscow!!!
Follow the instructions, be precise with measurements and check the results. Please read the instructions carefully before proceeding with installation. The external door is intended primarily for use as an entrance door in private houses for year-round use, mansions and townhouses, in such buildings where thermal insulation qualities are required.
It is strictly forbidden to install doors in a house under construction or in a room where wet work is being carried out (for example, concreting a floor, pouring screed, etc.). Excessive moisture can cause wood to warp and paint to peel. In addition, the fittings, including the lock body, may become rusty.
ATTENTION! When installing entrance doors in the cold season, it is necessary to use certified mounting foams specifically designed for use at low temperatures - information with specific recommendations for use is usually printed on the container by the manufacturer.
Always install moisture barrier (bitumen strip, etc.) between the horizontal base and the threshold.
Never install the box directly on a concrete floor or screed! Use, for example, bitumen strip, etc.
Doors should be installed in places with a sufficiently long roof overhang or canopy over the door, which will protect the door surface from moisture and sunlight.
When determining the size of the canopy, you should be guided by the following formula: the width of the canopy D must be at least half of the height of the canopy (the distance from the bottom of the door to the bottom of the canopy, see diagram).
Entrance door installation steps:
Stage 1
Check that the base under the threshold is horizontal.
Install the ebb in the mounting opening and place the assembled box on it
Coat the seam with sealing compound.
Low tide can be installed later. In this case, bring the ebb tide under the threshold
and glue it, installing the ebb in the groove intended for it in the threshold.
Stage 2
Secure the box in the mounting opening using wedges, inserting them above the mounting holes of the box so that the side of the box with hinges is exactly vertical (both parallel and prependicular to the plane of the wall). Use two wedges for each mounting hole in the box, insert one wedge from the outside, the other from the inside. Check with a spirit level that the box is level.
Make sure there is enough space around the perimeter of the box for the seal
and secure the hinge side of the box to the wall with mounting screws.
Stage 3
Install anti-burglary pins in the door. Do not screw them in completely, leave a margin of 10mm. Hang the door leaf on its hinges.
Tighten the anti-burglary pins as far as they will go, install and tighten the hinge mounting screws.
Stage 4
Make sure the threshold is set horizontally. Align the side of the box with the lock strike plate exactly (both parallel and prependicular to the plane of the wall). Secure the box to the wall with mounting screws.
Stage 5
To adjust the door height, use a hex key. Before adjusting the door sideways, loosen the security pins and mounting screws. Adjust to the side using the adjusting screw provided for this purpose. After adjustment, tighten the anti-burglary pins and mounting screws as far as possible.
Adjusting the hinges of the Jeld-Wen entrance door
The position of the outer door leaf can be adjusted in height and horizontally by adjusting the hinges.
This is especially true, for example, when shrinking a house.
Height adjustment
Tools required: 5 mm hex wrench.
Door adjustment up
- Loosen the upper adjusting screw (1) on all hinges by turning it 2-3 turns with a hexagon.
- By turning the adjusting screws (2) on the bottom of the hinges, set the door to the desired height position.
- Be sure to tighten all hinge screws an equal number of turns to evenly distribute the weight of the door on the hinges.
- Tighten the retaining screws on top of all hinges (1).
Door adjustment down
- Loosen the lower adjusting screw (2) on all hinges except one by 2-3 turns.
- By turning the screw (2) of the remaining hinge counterclockwise, lower the door to the desired height.
- Tighten the adjustment screws (2) of the remaining hinges to the same position to evenly distribute the weight of the door across all hinges.
- Finally, tighten the upper adjustment screws (1) without excessive force.
Horizontal door adjustment
Tools required: 5 mm hexagon, Phillips screwdriver.
Increasing the distance between the door and the door frame on the hinge side
- Tighten the adjusting screws (4) on one of the hinges so that the door leaf is in the desired position. .
- Tighten the adjustment screws (4) on the second hinge (on the remaining hinges) to level the door leaf and distribute the weight of the door evenly.
Reducing the distance between the door and the door frame on the hinge side
- Loosen the mounting screws (3) and the anti-removal pin (5) on all hinges by 2-3 turns.
- Loosen the adjusting screws (4) on one of the hinges so that the door leaf is in the desired position. .
- Loosen the adjustment screws (4) on the second hinge (on the remaining hinges) to level the door leaf and distribute the weight of the door evenly.
- Carefully tighten the screws (3) and anti-removal pins (5).
Stage 6
Does the door close tightly?
The closing tightness can be adjusted using adjustments in the strike plate.
Stage 7
Carefully seal the gap between the wall and the frame by filling it with mineral wool. Then coat the gap with a sealing elastic mass to vapor-waterproof the seam. Do not use polyurethane foam, because when it expands, it can deform the door frame and complicate possible subsequent door adjustments.
Instructions for servicing external doors
Painted products
The products are painted with moisture-resistant paints that meet the requirements for resistance to scratches, wear resistance and surface appearance, and which withstand exposure to many household chemicals, grease and solvents.
Cleaning
Use regular detergents (non-alkaline), such as dishwashing liquid. To clean mold, use special mold removers. Do not use detergents that may scratch or dissolve the painted surface. Avoid, for example, the use of solvents, abrasive powders, metal fiber sponges, etc. Wet the surface from bottom to top, but wash it from top to bottom. Otherwise, streaks from drips may appear on the door. Wipe dry.
Service
Normal cleaning is usually sufficient unless the door is damaged or abnormally worn. To maintain shine, however, it is recommended, after washing, to rub the door surfaces, for example, with car wax.
Touch up
It is best to touch up minor damage with a brush and alkyd or acrylate enamel of a suitable color and gloss level, intended for outdoor use. First check the compatibility of the paint with the original paint material on a small surface, for example, by painting a small area on the edge of the door on the hinge side.
Product quality and warranty conditions for Jed-Wen doors
Jeld-Wen manufactures its products in accordance with the requirements of the unified European standard CE.
What is CE?
The CE mark is a guarantee to the consumer that a given product complies with the essential requirements of a European harmonized standard and can therefore be legally placed on the market.
CE marking has long been mandatory on products such as toys and electronics, but more recently this unified standard has been established for certain building materials.
What does this mean for the consumer?
All CE marked products carry product data in the Declaration of Performance (DoP) format, allowing clear and easy comparisons between similar products and providing the consumer with the information they need to make an informed decision.
The DoP provides key information on the performance characteristics of construction products that have been independently tested and certified by an EU body.
All products subject to these Directives are required to be marked with the CE mark, either on the product itself or on its packaging - the CE logo and a number which indicates the relevant DoP.
Failure of the product to comply with the requirements of the CE standard in terms of curvature of the blade or frame is considered a warranty defect.
We apologize if you encountered a defect in JELD-WEN products! If you find a defect, please contact us and provide your order number. Please note that a defective product cannot be installed or used!
How to measure whether a door leaf is curved?
Place the door leaf on a flat horizontal surface
Measure the distance between the central part of the door leaf and the surface on which it is located (mm)
Allowed curvature of up to 5 mm per door leaf
How to measure if a door frame is warped?
Curvature towards the wall
Place the box (flat) on a horizontal, flat surface so that the ends of the box touch the ground.
The allowed curvature of the box in the direction of the wall is 3 mm / per 1 meter (i.e. for a box with a height of 20M and 21M 6 mm per vertical of the box.
Curvature towards the edge of the box
Place the box on its side on a flat, horizontal surface with the ends of the box touching the surface.
Measure the gap between the center of the box and the surface (mm).
The allowed curvature of the box in the direction of the edge is 1.5 mm / per 1 meter (i.e. for a box with a height of 20M and 21M up to 3 mm per one of its verticals)
We are not responsible for product defects resulting from normal wear and tear, improper storage, installation and operation.
