How to cover a bathhouse with clapboard. Finishing a bathhouse with clapboard: how to properly sheathe walls inside bathhouses

A simple and inexpensive way to create an interior from natural wood- this means lining the inside of the bathhouse with clapboard. How to do this is what will be discussed in this article.

What to hammer in: nails, screws or staples?

In itself, it is a board with a certain profile, which must have a tongue-and-groove locking connection. On the wall or mounted with nails, self-tapping screws or staples The tools and material required to hammer in the lining in the bathhouse are as follows:

• nails, screws, staples;
• hammer, screwdriver, hardware gun;
• a mallet or a piece of clapboard for knocking a tenon into a groove;
• building level.

What nails should I take for the lining in the bathhouse? It is desirable that these are finishing nails 30-40 mm long, with an anti-corrosion coating . It’s worth taking coated screws (their length is the same, by the way). Regarding the length, you should proceed from the thickness of the board (if in a groove, then only the walls of the groove), plus you need to punch through the block to which the board is attached at least to the middle.

Staples should be the same sizes, although there are comrades who nail construction stapler 14mm staples through a clamp, but this is rather an exception. To properly line a bathhouse with clapboard, it is better to use long staples and shoot them at an angle of 45 degrees(approximately).

Of course, it is tempting to wonder which is better from the listed methods. There cannot be a definite answer to this, because everything depends on the experience of a particular person. And if he is not there, then the easiest to implement is to shoot staples using a pneumatic gun. True, it is not cheap, and few people would agree to buy it for a one-time job. Other methods are a little more difficult to implement.

How to mount: with or without clamps?

Hydro and vapor protection

Both usually have the form of a film. How vapor protection different from water protection, if there is water here and there?

IMPORTANT! The vapor barrier is made from materials that do not allow moisture to pass through at all. Such films are placed on the side of the rooms in order to maximally protect the insulation from water vapor generated inside these rooms. The waterproofing is permeable in one direction and is placed closer to the outer skin in order to remove vapors from the insulation and not allow external moisture into it.

Water protection There are perforated and membrane. Over time, the perforated one becomes clogged with dust from the air and stops working. Membrane is quite expensive.

Waterproofing membrane

As vapor protection you can even use a simple plastic film, but this does not apply to the steam room, where such a film will melt.

What kind of foil is suitable for a bathhouse under the lining

A type of vapor barrier film is the usual aluminum foil or materials foiled with it.

Reflective foil vapor barrier film

It is worth understanding that in a hot steam room, foil under the lining will better without polymer additives, because polyethylene or polypropylene cannot withstand high temperatures. Of course, the polymer base makes the foil much more tensile strength, but polymers are flammable. It happens that they close like this penofol, and then it quietly melts from the heat.

Foil on kraft paper. For more information on using foil, see

Thickness suitable foil ranges from 50 to 300 microns (0.05, 0.1, 0.3 mm). Sold in rolls, the seller immediately indicates the quantity square meters. The roll width is usually 1-1.2 m.

As an option, so that it tears less, we can recommend foil reinforced with fiberglass mesh.

Lathing

The sheathing is made from bar, the thickness of which varies over a relatively wide range. The cross-section can be square or rectangular.

IMPORTANT! It is better not to make the ventilation gap, which is formed due to the thickness of the sheathing, less than 3 cm - this is space for air that drains the lining and vapor barrier; there is no need to save on it.

So, the minimum thickness of the sheathing slats is 30 mm, you can take the width 40-50 mm - so that it is convenient to attach the strips to it.

Insulation is inserted between the bars to insulate the wall

Wood there can be any bars - even if it is conifers, You will not see any resin leaks. By grades The choice depends on the budget, everyone decides for themselves.

Types of lining

As already mentioned, the lining is profiled with a locking connection, and there are quite a lot of variations of this profile.

Oddly enough, the most important thing is not the profile, but the wood and how well it was dried after preparation. We have already recommended linden as the least expanding and contracting rock.

Good lining with ventilation grooves on the reverse side, well processed, but this applies more to eurolining. ! There is a separate section dedicated to bath ventilation.

If popular mineral wool is used as insulation, then you need:

1. Cover the walls with waterproofing.
2. Attach “holders” for mineral wool to the wall - slats, or rather even boards, between which it will be inserted. The distance between such boards should be equal to the width of the insulation minus a couple of centimeters. The width of the boards is equal to the thickness of the insulation (for some it is 5 cm, for others it is 10 or 20).
3. Insert the insulation and cover it with a vapor barrier, securing it to the boards.
4. The sheathing slats are placed on top of the vapor barrier in a direction perpendicular to the direction in which you intend.

Impregnations for the walls of baths and saunas can be found on sale; they are also suitable for steam rooms, because they are either harmless linen or paraffin oil or mixture oils With wax. Thanks to such impregnations, the wood does not absorb water and dirt does not linger on it. But it needs to be restored regularly.

Lining is possible as varnishes, so and paints, but only outside the steam room. In the washing room you can use the same products that are suitable for bathrooms.

Lining is considered an ideal solution for finishing a steam room, because it is natural wood that creates the necessary atmosphere and retains heat well. When planning clapboard cladding inside a bathhouse with your own hands, you should take everything into account necessary nuances. Even minor deviations from the rules threaten that the coating will not perform its functions and will quickly become unusable.

Covering a bathhouse with clapboard involves the use of materials that can withstand certain conditions that are typical for a given room. These include:

• High temperatures.
• Constant changes in humidity.
• Ingress of water and various substances.

Therefore, it is necessary to carefully select products. It is believed that the best option would be eurolining. This is due to the following factors:

1. Reliability of fixation due to the large size of the groove system.
2. The presence of compensation slots located on the reverse side. They prevent cracking of elements.
3. Good quality of impregnation with protective equipment, carried out directly in production.

Note! For work, material of the first or highest class (grade) is used. There is no damage or knots that will fall out over time.

Selection of wood species

The bathhouse consists of several rooms that perform specific functions. It is advisable for each room to provide a certain breed wood It must be borne in mind that not every type can be used for this type of finishing.

Linden

One of the most popular options. Linden is able to create a microclimate in the room that will be saturated with cleanliness and comfort. We must not forget about the excellent qualities of such material. The boards are durable, resistant to various influences, and retain their color and structure for a long time.

Aspen

The peculiarity of this type is that it only becomes stronger over time. This product is easy to work with. Even through for a long time When the wood darkens, it is enough to sand it to return the rich color of the surface.

The above options can be used in all parts of the bathhouse, but most often they are used in the steam room.

Cedar

It can even be used in steam rooms, but this species heats up much more than deciduous ones, so at high temperatures discomfort from contact may occur.

Pine and spruce

These types are used primarily for washing and dressing rooms. The fact is that these rocks intensely emit resin and heat up quickly. But it should be noted that this option is much cheaper than the previous ones and has a wide decorative range.

Note! Coniferous species require additional processing - de-resining, otherwise there is a high probability that the surface of the walls and ceiling will be covered with numerous streaks.

Lining made from coniferous wood is most often used for finishing dressing rooms and washing areas.

Choosing a mounting method

Do-it-yourself cladding of a bathhouse with clapboard begins with choosing a layout of elements. There are two main ways: horizontal and vertical. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Horizontal option

Horizontal option has the following advantages:

• It is assumed that the fastening will be carried out with a spike at the top, which will reduce the likelihood of water entering and stagnating.
• This method is also good because the frame for it is made vertically, which means that the air will circulate more evenly in the resulting space.
• It also cannot be ruled out that boards, even the highest quality ones, are susceptible to rotting. This happens especially quickly at the very bottom. Horizontal fastening technology makes it possible to replace only the material that has actually been destroyed.
• With this installation option, drying out is less noticeable.

We must not forget that oak wood is considered one of the highest quality, but its cost is very high.

Vertical option

Interior finishing of the bathhouse with clapboard vertical way produced quite quickly and simply. This technology has its advantages:

• Any moisture flows faster down the vertical elements.
• The tongue-and-groove system is less susceptible to water stagnation and destruction.
• This circuit maintains the temperature inside the room.

It is believed that this option is most suitable for dry steam baths.

Installation of lining

Cladding with clapboard from the inside of a bathhouse or sauna is carried out on the sheathing. It is performed exclusively from wooden beam, which is pre-treated with various antiseptics and primed.

Important! Cannot be used for frame metal profile, even galvanized options in a steam room will quickly become unusable.

Creating a sheathing

The technology is as follows:

1. The timber is carefully prepared. For work, a non-planed version can be used, but it must be treated with impregnations.
2. The racks are fastened clearly perpendicular to the location of the lining. Naturally, if a combination of vertical and horizontal schemes was conceived, then it is necessary to calculate in advance the correct location of the beam.
3. The profile is attached to the wall with a dowel. It is taken into account that the size of the timber must be larger than the width of the insulation if an option is used that fits into free space.
4. The distance between the posts should be 50-60 cm. Correct fastening is checked by level and plumb.
5. If unevenness is detected, then additional board cuttings are placed. In the case of strong curvature, hangers are used for the frame of gypsum board slabs.

Note! Need to take care of high-quality ventilation. It is arranged in two places. The first hole should be located under the ceiling, the second - at a distance of 30 cm from the floor.

Fastening the slats

How to fix the lining in a bathhouse? Most in an effective way counts hidden mount(nails and clamps). There are several explanations for this:

• If you tighten the fastener through the front part, then there is a high probability of touching this place, which will lead to unpleasant sensations (a slight burn).
• The metal is susceptible to oxidation, which means stains may appear that spoil the entire decorative appearance.
• The visible fastening indicates that the master was in too much of a hurry to finish the work, neglecting appearance premises.

The work proceeds as follows:

Stage one - covering the ceiling.

All activities begin with the ceiling structure. The fact is that this is where the necessary thermal gaps are left.

1. Laying begins from the entrance to the room. A clamp is used as a fastener. It securely fixes each element, which cannot be said about nails.
2. The slats are placed at a distance of fifty millimeters from the walls, which will compensate for possible deformations. This will also serve as a ventilation gap allowing air to circulate.
3. The first fragment is placed in its place and secured with hidden nails. Next, clamps are installed.
4. Products are grooved. Now only clamps are used.
5. The last element is difficult to install, so it is secured with hidden nails.

Stage two – working with the walls.

The technology exactly repeats that used for the ceiling. But the following is taken into account:

• The presence of capillaries in wood allows water to rise to a certain distance, and therefore it is advisable to leave a technical gap. To do this, 15-30 mm are removed from the floor.
• The boards are adjacent to the ceiling, but for walls the lamellas cannot be connected through the groove until they stop. The fact is that the tree is in constant movement, so there must be space.

It should be taken into account that violation of such simple rules leads to swelling and deformation.

The technology used makes it possible to cover the bathhouse with clapboard in all rooms.

You should know! The lining cannot be placed next to the firebox and chimney pipe. But the area around the heater can be lined with hardwood slats.

Stage three – additional processing.

After the installation is completed, additional processing of the lining is carried out. This is necessary in order to protect the tree from destruction. The work is carried out with various impregnations on natural basis. Waxing is best - when the surface is thoroughly covered with wax. The number of layers depends on the type of room. One is enough for a steam room, and at least two for a washing room.

It is important to purchase high-quality impregnations that have the necessary certificates.

Everyone wants to know how to properly line a bathhouse and save a little money. There are some options for this:

1. You should choose different wood for each room. For example, the places in the steam room where you are supposed to lie or sit are lined with hardwood, the rest with cedar. The dressing room and washing area are decorated exclusively with coniferous options.
2. You can also lower the grade (class) of the lining. If other rooms need quality material, then the dressing room looks great with a surface on which there are traces of knots and different colors.
3. It is better to carry out all the work yourself. This will not only save you a lot of money cash, but also to be sure that all events are carried out with exceptional quality.

Everyone dreams of having their own steam room; building it is not difficult, but finishing it is difficult. I will tell you how to properly line a bathhouse with clapboards and clearly demonstrate all stages of the work with photographs.

Briefly about the bath

Before we tell you how to line a bathhouse from the inside with clapboard , a few words about what I have already done:

Interior work

Lathing

Now I’m telling you how to line a bathhouse with clapboard from the inside .

You need to start with the sheathing:

• Beam. We use only well-dried material. I did not treat it with an antiseptic, because... the clapboarded wood will still heat up, and all the chemicals will creep out.

Pay attention! Since the task was to build a budget bathhouse and use it once a week, it was decided to save on impregnation. After 6 days of inactivity, the wood dries perfectly.

• Screws. Since I have gas silicate, which is quite soft, I used copper-plated screws to secure the sheathing to the walls. They are correctly called - roofing copper screw A2, and come complete with a copper rubberized washer.

Pay attention! I placed this washer between the wall and the beam to provide a ventilation gap.

• Ventilation gap. This is provided by the washer. First, I drilled the beam, inserted the screw, then put on the washer and only then applied it to the wall and tightened it with a screwdriver.

Important! I did the same procedure with the ceiling. Additionally, I taped all the joints with tape, which I bought along with the foil.

Don’t forget to carry out all work with the sheathing with a plumb line and level in your hands - the assembled sheathing must be installed perfectly level, so as not to listen to reproaches from relatives later, such as: couldn’t you ask how to sheathe a bathhouse with clapboard evenly and without jambs?

Fitting the lining

I give advice on how to properly line a bathhouse with clapboards without excess dust - carry out the entire cutting process outside the room. I did the same with the clapboard and brought it inside, already cut to the size of the walls.

1. Kleimers. Best to use hidden installation, then the lining inside will look very good. Plus, metal is a good conductor of heat, and you can easily get burned by leaning on nails and screws. This situation will not arise with clampers;
2. Nail finisher. Because I spent money on roofing fasteners, but they are not cheap - almost 8 rubles apiece with a spacer washer, it was decided to fasten the clamps with nails;

1. Lining. Just like everyone else, I thought for a long time about what clapboard to cover the bathhouse with. , but in the end I settled on . It smells nice and feels very good;
2. Nails. The included nails for the clamps turned out to be too soft, so I bought 3 packs of new, more durable ones.

Installation

Let's get started:

• First bar. I nail the first one into the timber. Using a hammer, I deepen the caps inward for safety;

• Second plank. I attach it to the clamp, fitting it tightly along the entire length;

• Third and next on the list. Methodically, without haste, I fasten all the other boards to the end of the wall;

• End board. I fasten it with nails, having previously adjusted it to size.

So, step by step, we line the bathhouse with clapboard. It turns out that visible fasteners are only in the corners of the outer planks - the rest of the lining is installed.

Pay special attention to the junction points wooden products to the stove - in this case it is better to play it safe than to do it at random.

There were also no special problems with the ceiling - the technology is the same as on the walls: the first and outer ones are secured with nails, all other boards between them are fastened with clamps.

My story about how to properly line a bathhouse with clapboard would be incomplete without mentioning the insulation of the roof from the attic side. Everything here is quite simple - using ISOVER slabs, I laid them between the beams that hold the boards of the rough ceiling.

The question was resolved simply:

• I trimmed the bottom edge with a circular saw and removed 4 cm;
• I drilled holes along the bottom edge directly above the bottom beam of the sheathing.

I’ll tell you more about this error in the video in the article.

1. Second mistake. The sheathing should have started from the ceiling, but I started from the walls. This saves material and makes the work easier.
2. Third mistake. Still, a gas silicate block is not the best good decision for a bath, if it remains unfinished for a long time. In my case, it began to shrink, so something needs to be decided in the near future.

In conclusion

Actually, this is where my story about how to line a bathhouse with clapboard with your own hands has come to its logical conclusion. There are plans to finish the dressing room and decorate the facade with something more interesting, for example, imitation timber or eurolining. If you are interested in how to line a bathhouse with eurolining, follow my publications, I’m sure you will like it.

Since ancient times, bathhouses were built exclusively from wood, and such log houses were extremely effective. The article will talk about the advantages of finishing a bathhouse with clapboard compared to using bare log house.

Characteristics of a log house

Initially, the features of the Russian log bathhouse were high humidity in the steam compartment and the environmental friendliness of the materials used in construction. Logs are relevant as a building material to this day, since the most important thing for a bathhouse is massive, heat-intensive and hygroscopic walls.

At the beginning of the procedures, the walls absorb the released moisture and then release it evenly. Experienced bath attendants have even heard how logs “hiss” from condensed moisture absorbed into the pores of the wood. The presentability and aesthetics of a Russian bathhouse is determined by the massiveness of the log house. The last conclusion can be made on the basis of photographs and ancient paintings, where the bathhouse always looks like an oversized building made of huge logs.

The main disadvantage of a log house is that it takes a very long time to heat the bathhouse. In standard log cabins Ancient Rus' it took about four hours to prepare. Logs do not last long under such operating conditions, although they are the cheapest building material.

Features of modern baths

However, we were talking exclusively about Russian baths that have survived to this day, but not about modern buildings. Today, when building baths, builders solve the problem of reducing the consumption of thermal energy, as well as reducing the heating time to 30-60 minutes.

For these purposes, the mass of the finishing layer of wood in the bathhouse premises is reduced. Usually the bathhouse is lined with clapboard about 1 centimeter thick, and under it is attached thermal insulation material with foil layer.

The advantage of this design is fast heating and minimal fuel consumption, but at the same time the rooms cool down faster, fuel needs to be added regularly, and therefore the differences with a real Russian bathhouse are significant.

The walls of such a bath do not accumulate steam, and therefore expensive stoves or steam generator units should be used to create it. During bath procedures, steam must be supplied regularly, which requires the constant presence of a bath attendant or one of the visitors next to the unit.

How to choose the right lining for cladding

Before starting work, you should decide which clapboard is best to cover the steam room of the bathhouse.

High-quality lining must meet the following criteria:

• breathable structure (wood), which has an antiseptic effect (fungus and mold do not form) and provides a kind of moisture ventilation;
• environmentally friendly material with complete safety for the human body.

At the early stages of production, lining strips were made with tongue-and-groove and quarter-tongue fastenings. To date, these options have been abandoned, since the fasteners quickly wore out and failed during operation. Tongue/groove is the most popular method of fastening products today.

The following recommendation will be useful for novice builders. It’s quite easy to save on material if you buy planks 1.5 meters long rather than longer ones (2 meters). Sheathing the room is not much more difficult. The amount of material should be calculated for the area to be covered, minus window and doorways. If you know which clapboard is best to cover the steam room in your particular case, you can safely buy the necessary material.

Basics of lining installation

If we're talking about about how to sheathe the inside of a bathhouse with clapboard, then the vertical arrangement of the slats will lead to their uneven heating during the heating process. Horizontal placement material will reduce the degree of drying out and broadening during operation. Also, horizontal fastening of the planks is necessary to visually lengthen a room with a small area. It is necessary to initially decide how the lining in the bathhouse will be installed horizontally or vertically.

Other benefits horizontal installation linings:

• replacement around darkened floors facing material simplified;
• moisture does not penetrate into the joints between the planks, and therefore the material dries faster after completing the paired procedures;
• air ventilation behind such a facing layer is much better, but for maximum efficiency you need to create a high-quality sheathing on which the lining will be fixed;
• also, the frame under the lining will be an excellent barrier for rodents who want to chew on the thermal insulation material;
• finally, installation work are greatly simplified if the planks are placed in a horizontal position.

Washing room: selection of finishing material

After you have lined the bathhouse with clapboard inside the steam room with your own hands, you should take care of finishing the room where washing is carried out after the end of the procedures. These two rooms differ in temperature, but the humidity in them is equally high.

In this regard, it will not be possible to completely cover the bathhouse with clapboard, or a number of conditions must be met:

• You can only use moisture-resistant material based on larch wood;
• it is necessary to install a powerful hood on the ceiling in a clapboard bathhouse that will effectively cope with moisture;
• if the material is less protected, then you need to take care of its complete processing various compositions, increasing resistance to moisture.

If these conditions are met, the wood will not deform under conditions high humidity, and also it does not form unpleasant stains, mold, mildew, etc. The most popular remedy is antifungal water impregnation, which will also protect the wood from various insects.

You can avoid the costs of implementing all of the above conditions if you use polyvinyl chloride as an alternative to natural wood material. plastic lining. This material is easy to install and operate, and its service life is no less than that of natural material.

However, it is worth noting that PVC lining is not suitable for a steam room, since plastic will not be able to withstand high temperatures. As for the washing room, the material is safe from excessive temperature loads, and visitors are safe from harmful substances released when the plastic is heated.

The cost of PVC lining is lower than that of natural material. When the owner finishes the bathhouse with clapboards with his own hands, additional costs will only be required for the installation of a high-quality vapor barrier layer. Also, do not forget about the ventilation gap between the cladding and the wall.

Thus, a certain sequence of layers will be observed:

• sheathing required thickness;
• vapor barrier film;
• support rails;
• PVC lining.

The nuances of finishing a fresh log house with the effect of settlement

Perhaps one of the biggest problems for a bathhouse owner is that before cladding a bathhouse with clapboards with your own hands, you need to wait a fairly long period. The reason for this is the settling effect of a fresh building. For example, a settlement of 5 centimeters will lead to the destruction of a large number of lining strips.

The problem can be solved, but the technology described below should be used only as a last resort, when finishing must be done without fail. However, any specialist, speaking about how to properly clapboard a bathhouse from the inside, will advise you to wait the required period.

So, in a newly built bathhouse, finishing can be done using movable guides that will move after the frame. On such a device, the bottom of the sheathing is fixed, as usual, rigidly, but the remaining functional elements move along guides.

There are several technologies for installing such fastenings, but when considering how to properly line a bathhouse with clapboard, experts agree that the most effective and simplest option is the following option. A slot is made to the width of the beam, which will subsequently hold the sheathing.

The wall will settle horizontally and will not affect the cladding in any way. You need to use large self-tapping screws as fastenings, or preferably galvanized nails.

All elements of the resulting structure must be placed so that there is a gap to the ceiling from the highest point, onto which the building is expected to settle. As for the ceiling cladding, it should be mounted on a rough base, and not on a frame near the walls.

The formation of gaps between the wall and ceiling sheathing can be avoided if the ceiling is sheathed clearly at the level of the top point of the wall sheathing. Skirting boards should be nailed to the ceiling, not the wall.

This cladding technology is universal and even allows you to use tiles as wall coverings, but for this it should be attached to moisture-resistant cardboard mounted on the guides described above.

The worst thing is when the bathhouse is built from aerated concrete blocks, the heat capacity of which leaves much to be desired, and to be more precise, the material simply freezes in the cold season. Only a reliable insulated frame indoors can protect a bathhouse from the external influence of cold air masses.

There must be a gap between such a structure and the walls of the building. Use as finishing material in this case, the best is lime croaker. This material has unique thermal insulation properties and will allow you to concentrate all thermal energy indoors.

Bottom line

The article discusses in detail how to properly line a bathhouse with clapboards and what materials to use. From all of the above, we can conclude that cladding is not a complicated process and is not the most expensive. Properly guided by the information provided, you can complete all the work yourself. If desired, you can entrust them to specialists who will take responsibility for all stages - from procurement necessary materials before their installation and putting the bathhouse into operation.

The most popular and easy-to-use material for interior decoration The baths are clapboard. Wood for a bathhouse is the most suitable option at the expense of their useful qualities and naturalness. Let's figure out how to do this finishing yourself.

Where to start?

First of all, you need to opt for high-quality and natural materials. The sheathing must be resistant to constant condensation, humidity and high temperatures. You can choose such types of material as brick, foam concrete or gas silicate blocks. However, none of the stone materials can replace wood, if only for the reason that stone will not be able to create a special microclimate that attracts people to the steam room, as well as the smell of wood that is still loved by all bathhouse visitors.

Why lining?

Lining - view building material made from wood. It is distinguished by its board structure, which has a special groove along the sides. Due to this fastening between the panels, maximum contact is ensured, which contributes to greater thermal insulation. Among other things, the lining is considered externally beautiful material, practical and durable.

What kind of lining will be needed for cladding?

It is important to pay attention to the characteristics of the tree when choosing. It should:

• be resistant to high temperatures and temperature fluctuations;
• be moisture resistant and durable;
• have an affordable and reasonable price.

Faced with a wide range of materials, we begin to distinguish typical characteristics boards

• eurolining

Many people settle on this variety because large sizes the boards make installation easier, and special slots on the back side provide ventilation of the wood, which prevents it from drying out and cracking. Eurolining is treated with protective agents at the manufacturing stage. This makes it easier to process wood yourself. Feel free to use the lining as cladding.

• classic lining

Narrow boards standard size with right angles. The best way Sheathing with such a board is considered to be a vertical fastening. If you mount them horizontally, the space will visually lose its beauty; condensation will be able to flow under the boards, which will lead to the destruction of the finish and its deformation.

• lining "calm"

Similar in design to classic board, however, has rounded corners. The back side is provided with special gaps that promote ventilation of the material.

• soft line lining

It is considered a type of lining that combines the “calm” option and eurolining. It features an elongated tenon, which provides better fastening, and rounded corners.

• block house

A popular type of lining, imitating a log. As a rule, it is considered the best option for exterior finishing facade, however, for cladding baths can be considered suitable material. Convenient installation and durable operation are ensured due to tenacious fastenings and the presence of ventilation of the boards on the reverse side.

Types of lining

Having decided on the type of lining, select the type of material:

• premium class (grade 0)

It has a perfectly smooth surface and a high price. The material is of absolutely high quality, has no flaws or irregularities.

• class "A" (grade 1)

Has an acceptable number of knots and cracks. Resin can be observed on the surface, and roughness is possible.

• class "B" (grade 2)

The cracks have a through nature. The presence of knots is increased. In some places there is a protrusion of natural rot of the board. It is necessary to protect the surface with varnishes and paints, which does not allow the use of the material in a steam room. Covering other rooms in the bathhouse is allowed.

• class “C” (grade 3)

Poor material for lining baths. If you use the material for finishing, then it is no more than as an auxiliary material for technical purposes. The characteristics of the lining are such that the board has large number shortcomings and defects.

Choosing wood

Finally, you can start choosing the type of wood.

• linden

The interior decoration of the bathhouse with linden clapboard is the most popular. Wood provides an ideal microclimate. Linden characteristics:

• strength, reliability;
• resistance to drying out;
• the wood structure and color palette loved by many;
• requires treatment, otherwise the surface will begin to noticeably rot or acquire a dark tint.

• aspen

The lining has a soft and elastic structure, which allows for easy installation. A special feature of wood is the fact that it does not wear out over the years. On the contrary, the longer the material is used, the stronger its structure becomes. Aspen is considered moisture-resistant material. During operation, the material is easily sanded.

• alder

It has tannins, which is beneficial for the body; it is well susceptible to high temperatures. However, wood has low thermal conductivity and a high price.

• oak

Oak lining is a difficult material to process and install. This may turn out to be insignificant disadvantages, considering that wood is practically not subject to rot and mold. In addition, the cost of the material is very high.

• other types of lining

Alternative options could be lining made of ash, as well as hardwood or softwood.

What nuances should you remember?

Installation of thermal insulation

The most important condition for a bath or sauna is heat and steam exposure. Therefore, covering the walls and floor with the ceiling with clapboard is half the battle. The preliminary stage before finishing will be the installation of a thermal insulation layer. There are several ways to do this:

1. A budget option is to attach aluminum foil or glassine to the wall using a stapler. The insulation is installed in the free spaces of the sheathing and covered with a vapor barrier.
2. Laying insulation directly on the walls before the sheathing for finishing is installed. The insulation is covered with foil. Only after this we construct the sheathing and trim the walls with clapboard.

As insulation the best option For the bathhouse, basalt wool will be used.

It is important to install the insulation so that there are no gaps or free spaces, not even gaps. To protect yourself from getting small particles of cotton wool in your eyes or mouth, you need to wear construction glasses and a respirator.

Thus, when installing insulation and enveloping the walls with foil, you will provide your bathhouse with good thermal conductivity and resistance to condensation and moisture.

Ventilation

We have already said that ventilation must be properly installed in the walls. After installing the insulation and sheathing, the most important thing for the walls will be the formation of holes under the ceiling and on the floor, preferably next to the firebox. Ventilation must be installed so that there is easy access to it.

Sheathing installation

As with any construction activity, finishing a bathhouse from the inside requires a special list of tools. Install the casing using:

• hammer drill (you can use an electric drill);
• construction stapler (appropriate staples will be needed);
• electric jigsaw;
• construction square, level and tape measure;
• screwdriver (you will need self-tapping screws of the same size);
• nails, clamps and hammer.

Upholstering bare walls with clapboard will not lead to anything good. After installing the insulation or even before that (depending on which insulation method you chose), you need to install the sheathing, onto which the clapboard boards will later be attached.

First, check for large holes or depressions in the walls. If there are any, they must be sealed, otherwise there is simply nothing to attach the sheathing to.

Direct production of the sheathing with your own hands begins with the preparation of slats and wooden blocks. They are attached to the wall using nails or self-tapping screws. The slats should be installed horizontally on the wall, at an equal distance from each other. The interval between them must be made such that the insulation can easily fit into it. Fastening the slats begins at the edges, and then the installation moves towards the middle. The sheathing is ready, you can start sheathing.

After purchasing the lining, do not rush to put it on the walls. The material needs to “settle” in a closed bathhouse for 24 hours. What is this for? The answer is simple: the boards need to absorb the necessary moisture and deform as much as possible so that the boards do not crack ahead of time. After waiting for them to deform, the boards need to be treated with a solution and dried.

There can be three ways to attach boards: vertical, horizontal and diagonal.

• We fasten the lining vertically

A common option for baths or saunas, as the mounting is quite simple and convenient. When used, the fastening is practical: when condensation appears on the walls, moisture flows along the boards, this protects the material from water getting inside the wall.

Due to this fastening, the air circulates in the right direction, due to this, a correct microclimate, air movement around the room is free.

The disadvantage may be that it is not profitable to use. If you need to replace one of the lining boards, you will have to disassemble the entire structure.

• We fix the paneling horizontally

Many people reject this method because it is unsafe. This is not so: the boards are fastened with the tenon facing up, which means that water, just like with vertical fastening, is unlikely to get inside.

When choosing such a mount, get ready to install the sheathing: thanks to it, air will properly circulate between the lining and the wall.

Boards are easy to replace. It is especially correct to install this type of fastening of the lining on the floor, since the boards are subject to rapid deterioration.

The horizontal cladding method is convenient in “log-built” bathhouses. Such structures shrink over several years and become permanently deformed. When installing the lining vertically, a change in the position of the boards is inevitable.

• We fasten the lining diagonally

As a rule, the mount is used for the ceiling. The boards are secured using clamps. Installation starts from the corner. The boards are installed in rows along the entire perimeter of the ceiling. Excess boards along the edges are sawed off at an angle with a jigsaw.

Bathhouse cladding step by step

We begin installing the cladding from the ceiling. Fasteners for boards are nails or clamps, which are driven in in several ways:

• Nails at 45 degree angles. On the ceiling, the fasteners will be completely invisible. Attach the boards to each other with a small gap, allowing them to swell easily without damaging the structure.
• The nails get hammered right through. Best option for eurolining. It is important to first drill a hole in the wood and then drive the nail. You can disguise the fasteners with plugs.
• Fastening with clamps facilitates the process of installing the lining. They are installed on the sheathing, and the lining simply engages with them during installation.
• It is possible to use an oblique or countersunk nail. One of complicated ways fastenings If you are working with such materials for the first time, it is better to refrain, as there is a risk of ruining not only the board, but the entire work as a whole.

Finishing the sauna with clapboard

Lining is a thin material, it is difficult to finish nails with a hammer, so you can use a hammer.

As on the ceiling, the lining on the floor and walls should be fixed with a small interval between the boards for its free movement. The gap distance is approximately 2-3 mm. You can leave a space of 15 mm between the ceiling and walls, hiding it with a ceiling plinth.

The lining is mounted on the walls in the same way as on the ceiling. We start the trim from the corner and move towards the center. The gap from the floor should be about 1-3 centimeters so that water does not approach the boards and they do not rot at a rapid speed. We take into account the gaps between the boards. It is important to leave them so that each board has its own space to move and swell.

How to make these gaps? Simple: the second board is driven into the first until it stops. Several stripes are marked along the seam with a sharp object. After this, the board moves to the marked stripes. Make sure the board is spread evenly using a level.

The final stage of the cladding will be the first heating of the room and “taking a sample.” It is necessary to check the material for strength and ensure its quality after the room has cooled. If fastening defects are found somewhere, they can be additionally secured with nails.

Do-it-yourself finishing of a bathhouse with clapboard inside

Consider the subtleties when covering with clapboard:

• be sure to take into account the location of the lining tenon when installing in a horizontal position;
• fasteners must be galvanized to avoid corrosion and rust of the metal, and, consequently, stains on the wood itself;
• maintain the correct interval between the boards for the necessary ventilation and free movement of the lining while heating the room;