The reverse hammer is necessary tool, with which you can fix dents in hard to reach places car body. These are parts of the car where it is impossible to squeeze out a dent from the back side.
These mainly include the arches, sills and pillars of the car. Such equipment is used for minor damage to a specific area, which does not require replacement of the entire fragment.
This tool is not complex equipment and is not large in size. It is the reverse hammer that will be discussed in this article.
What kind of device is this
If you are at least a little familiar with plumbing, then creating such a tool at home will be quite simple for you.
Self-production such a device will not take much time, and will not even require the presence special equipment or knowledge. For a more visual understanding, we present a primitive drawing that will not be superfluous.
As noted above, the design of such a hammer is very simple. A metal sleeve is mounted on a steel rod 50 cm long with a diameter of 10 to 20 mm, which should be easy to grip by hand.
The diameter of its hole should allow it to slide freely along the hammer rod without creating a large backlash. A handle is installed on the top to hold the tool by hand. An impact washer is tightly attached to the rod in front of the handle.
Another safety washer is attached at the bottom, which prevents the bushing from flying off the rod during operation, thereby causing additional damage to the leveled surface. And at the very tip of the tool there should be a hook for grabbing staples.
If you decide to make such a hammer yourself, rather than buy it in a store, where the price will be much higher, then it is advisable that the hook and bottom washer be removable. Since for convenience when working it is better to have a set of hooks different lengths, as well as several bushings of different weights.
How to use
The operating principle of the reverse hammer is as follows:
- First of all, you should inspect the damaged area of the car, select the appropriate hook based on the location and main dimensions of the dent, in order to then correctly calculate the accuracy of the applied force.
- Then the repaired area of the body surface must be thoroughly cleaned from excess paint layer and primer down to the metal.
- Next, you need to weld special repair brackets (washers) onto the metal surface of the dent using welding machine. If the electric spotter comes complete with a reverse hammer, then during the leveling process you only need to change the nozzle.
- Then you need to hook the hook of the auto tool onto the brackets, and then begin to pull out the dent with gentle and light blows.
- It is recommended to perform leveling until the damaged part of the body surface is completely eliminated.
- To get rid of dents on your car, you first need to weld some brackets and push a hammer through their holes to remove the damage.
- After which the corrected surface defect should be treated with a primer and re-coated with paint to match the body.
Good to know: A body work reverse hammer is one of the most important tools designed to remove irregularities in hard-to-reach areas of the car.
However, it is worth paying attention to the fact that such a device has its drawbacks, due to which, along with the dent on the car body, a layer of paint that was not even damaged is completely removed. In addition, areas of extensive dents in the hood, roof and surface of the trunk of a car cannot be straightened with its help. Welding staples can greatly deform the metal, which will ultimately lead to a complete replacement of the part.
Vacuum device
I would like to add special kind The described device is a vacuum return hammer.
It is interesting to know that vacuum body straightening has characteristic feature, which makes it possible to repair a considerable area of the damaged surface of the car.
The advantage of such a reverse hammer is the vacuum suction cup, with which you will not need to remove the thickness paint coating from the car before starting body repairs.
When working with a reverse vacuum hammer, there is no need to drill or weld brackets onto the area of the body to be leveled.
Restoring the body using vacuum straightening occurs in several stages:
- Cleaning the surface from grease and warming up the area for leveling.
- Two specially selected glue pins are glued in the center and along the edges of the dent.
- The piston is hooked with a vacuum hammer, gently acting on the leveled area.
- Repeating the two previous actions until the surface accepts the required form.
- Thoroughly modify the leveled surface with a mini-lifter, which is sold in a set with pistons.
Take note: To level out unevenness in difficult places, hooks of the same shape and different lengths are used, allowing you to eliminate the defect in the most different parts car body surfaces.
However, vacuum extraction of dents is also not without its drawbacks, namely that it does not completely eliminate the defect. In addition, if the damaged areas of the car have cracks, then such straightening can damage it more. Therefore, it is worth paying great attention to the method of carrying out body repairs and the selection of appropriate tools.
However, when performing body repair work to remove dents in difficult places where there is no access from inside the machine, only a reverse hammer will help you. Such reliable tool To level out dents, every car mechanic who repairs cars should have one.
How to make a reverse hammer from scrap materials, see the following video:
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Sometimes it happens that the usual appearance of instruments quickly becomes boring and is in no way original, since it does not stand out from the others in any way, which, as usual, looks dull and does not cause any delight. That is why the idea of creating a carved hammer handle was taken, and I will tell you how the author made it in this article. Before moving on to the process of making a carved handle, you need to decide on the choice of tool, namely in this case hammer, as it is very popular in the workplace of every do-it-yourselfer.
In order to do carved handle with our own hands, we will need:
* The hammer itself has a wooden handle, ordinary, standard, in this case 600 grams.
* Wood cutters.
* Stationery knife.
* Drill with grinding attachments.
* Varnish for wooden products.
* Pencil.
Once you are sure that all the details are there, you can begin the creative process.
Step one.
Armed with a pencil, draw the pattern that you want to see on your handle, in this case it is a diamond-shaped pattern that looks quite original and tasteful.
After all the markings are ready, you can start cutting out the template, the so-called removal of the first layer, we do this using a stationery knife, precisely cutting out a part of the wood along the lines. When working with sharp tools, be careful and also do not forget about safety measures; for this, it is better to protect your hands with gloves. In the process of cutting out patterns, for more precise processing of the ends, it is better to cut them with greater strength
so as not to leave marks.
Step two. Next, we use cutters designed for carving wood, with the help of them you will be able to achieve more deep place
patterns, which will give them greater clarity and will look more impressive than a shallow groove. Chinese-made cutters cannot boast of high reliability and resistance to stress, therefore, during the cutting process, their blades broke several times, so be on alert, and also work with them carefully, since during processing there is a risk of driving the blade into your hand, which is not pleasant outcome of events.
After the final work with cutters, the result was something similar to diamonds.
Step three.
The patterns are refined using a drill and a grinding attachment; after this processing process, the handle takes on a more beautiful aesthetic appearance, as well as smooth corners.
When the work with the drill is completed, we make the surface smooth with sandpaper, which must be used to clean all sides of the handle.
Step four.
For greater convenience, the decision was made to make a hole in the handle to place the hammer on a shelf or hang it on a nail next to other tools. We do this using a drill installed in a screwdriver, then we grind this hole and enlarge it with a drill. Step five. The final step is to coat the surface of our
carved hammer
However, there are times when it is broken or only one head remains. And it is simply necessary to perform work that involves a hammer.
Therefore, you need to figure out how to make a hammer with your own hands.
Using a Hammer
The history of the origin of the hammer goes back centuries. It was still used by primitive people. They found him the best various applications. Used in construction, mining, hunting.
By changing the hammer, you can trace how humanity developed. Mostly the change affected only the material from which it was created. But the design itself remained unchanged
There are a huge number of types of hammers that are used in various spheres of human activity. So, it is used in medicine, construction, cooking, and plumbing. In these areas you cannot do without a hammer. However, each sphere has its own specific type of hammer.
The most popular and in demand is a regular hammer, which is used in everyday life. Its popularity is explained by the fact that it is multifunctional and versatile.
Its main goal is to increase the power of a human strike. In addition to being needed for driving nails, it is also an indispensable assistant for other construction tools. For such as punches, chisels, chisels.
The following work is performed with a hammer
- nails are driven in;
- crush tiles or concrete;
- make holes;
- straightens or bends metal objects.
Hammer design
The photo of the hammer shows that it consists of two parts
- lever
- striker
The handle can be made of the following materials
- tree
- plastic
- metal.
In the production of the striker they use
- steel;
- copper;
- lead;
- tree;
- rubber.
Its shape and size depend on the area in which it is used. And the cost of the hammer is greatly influenced by the shape of the striker.
The square one is much cheaper than the round shape. Since its striking part has much clearer accuracy, as well as greater impact power. The speed of any hammer can only be adjusted by a person.
How to make a hammer
The tool begins to be made from the handle. Since the firing pin itself is usually there. Making it at home is problematic. Therefore, you should not throw away your old hammer heads.
The handle is easiest to make from wood. The following tree species are suitable for this: 3t
- birch;
- maple;
- Rowan;
Note!
To make it you need a block of wood. The size depends on how long the hammer is needed. The handle itself is turned from the block. Afterwards, be sure to sand it so that there is no discomfort during the work and the skin on your hands is not damaged.
The prepared wood must be thoroughly dried and then varnished. The drying room is selected carefully. Since it must comply with the basic rules:
- good ventilation;
- absence large quantity sun rays;
- constant positive temperature.
It is important that wood should not be dried using artificial lighting. Since it can be deformed and its size can change greatly.
The next stage is the most difficult, connecting the handle with the striker. The narrowed end of the handle must be inserted into the head of the hammer with some effort.
There are often cases when the tip does not fit correctly. When making the handle, it turned out to be a little larger. It’s not scary; using a rasp, you can process it to the desired size, and then sand it so that the surface is smooth.
Note!
The firing pin is mounted perpendicular to the base of the handle. In this case, the structure must be kept in an upright position.
The head is inserted using gradual blows against a hard surface until the handle fits tightly into the head. That's it, the hammer is ready to use.
Making a hammer yourself is not difficult, the main thing is desire. Of course, you can buy a new hammer in the store, but this does not fully guarantee that the connection between the head and the handle will not break again. Therefore, it is advisable to make a hammer with your own hands.
Photo of a hammer with your own hands
Note!
To ensure that it does not fly off the handle during operation, but sits on it securely and firmly, it is enough to just place it correctly on the handle once.
Lever
First, about the dimensions: the hammer handle should be oval in cross-section, from 250 to 350 mm long, smoothly tapering to the end on which the hammer head is mounted.
The best wood for making handles is birch, beech, oak, ash, maple, hornbeam or rowan. It is completely unacceptable to make hammer handles from species with easily splintered wood: pine, spruce, aspen or alder.
Hammers with metal and plastic handles are now available for sale. They completely avoid the problem of fitting the head onto the handle, but for some reason I prefer hammers with wooden handles. They are warmer to the touch, feel more secure and comfortable in the hand.
Most often, hammer handles are made from birch wood. If you plan the handle yourself from a thick birch branch, it must be dried in a warm, shady and well-ventilated place.
Do not try to dry wood using artificial heat sources: electric fireplaces, air heaters, radiators. With such drying, the wood inevitably cracks and loses its strength.
If wooden handle for a hammer it will not be dried enough, over time it will dry out and decrease in volume, and the head will dangle on it, constantly threatening to fly off the handle of the tool.
Fitting the hammer head onto the handle
Insert the thin end of the handle into the hole in the hammer head. The ideal would be to fit the head on the handle with a certain force or, as the masters say, “with interference.”
If the handle turns out to be a bit thick, process its thin end first with a rasp and then sandpaper. As a result, the end of the handle should be a gentle cone. Having attached the hammer head to the handle, make sure that it is strictly perpendicular to the center line of the handle.
Holding the handle vertically, with the head of the hammer up, strike it with the back wide end against a hard surface from top to bottom. With each blow, the head of the tool will slowly but surely fit onto the expanding handle, becoming stronger and stronger on it.
The immobility of the head during subsequent impacts will indicate that it has “sat” firmly enough on the handle.
Wedging the hammer handle
Prepare a place for a wooden wedge. To prevent the wedge from moving to the side and damaging the handle, use a narrow chisel to make a notch about 5 mm deep at an angle of 30 0 to the longitudinal axis of the hammer.
A wooden wedge is a blade about 3 mm thick, about 15 mm wide and 30 to 50 mm long. The wedge should gradually taper towards the front, but its end should be blunt.
After the wooden wedge is driven into the handle approximately 15-20 mm, use a hacksaw with small tooth saw off the protruding hammer head top part handle so that it protrudes beyond the head by 2-3 mm.
Cut the second wedge from a strip of metal, the same shape and size as the wooden one, but much shorter, no more than 20 mm long.
Hammer it into the handle at the same angle of 30 0 to the longitudinal axis of the hammer, but on the other side of the center line.
After the metal wedge is completely driven “flush” into the handle of the hammer, the work on arranging the hammer can be considered complete.
Good luck to you! May everything work out for you!
All wooden handles on hand tool, I make it from well-dried birch, including for hammers. For hammers weighing 300-400 grams, a rectangular block, 350 millimeters long, with sides 40x30, is sufficient. Measure the internal jaw of the hammer head. After finishing, you should get a block with sides approximately 35x25. On one side of the block, mark the center (with lines from corner to corner). Around this center, build a rectangle with sides equal to the hole on the hammer in width and height. Bend the edges and faces of the block with a plane from the back of the future handle to the sides of the rectangle drawn at the end. Chamfer the corners and round them. Using sandpaper, adjust the front edge of the handle to the size of the hole in the hammer so that it fits tightly.
The lines at the end of the handle that we drew to construct the rectangle will now become marks for the place of the wedges. Take a chisel and make notches along them, so that the notches do not reach closer than 5 mm to the edge of the handle, otherwise the wedges may split the handle.
We drive wedges crosswise - first wooden and then iron. For a wooden wedge I use resinous pine; it “sticks” well to the birch handle.
None paints and varnishes I don’t use it for impregnation. I don't feel comfortable when the handle slides. A new handle mounted on a hammer, including its end parts, is impregnated a couple of times with clean machine oil, drying a day between layers. The handle of such a hammer does not absorb water, even if left in the rain, it does not make your hand freeze in the cold season, and as a kind of aesthetic addition, it has a beautiful amber color - this color is obtained from staining birch with oil.
