DIY frame bathhouse. Construction of a frame bath: fast and high-quality construction Step-by-step frame bath

Complete construction frame bath with your own hands is a completely doable task. It still needs to be properly insulated and insulated from moisture penetration. It is easier and faster to erect a frame structure than a similar structure made of logs or bricks.

Anyone can do this job home craftsman, since he will not need to order drawings, will not need to equip a serious foundation and purchase expensive building materials.

The frame bathhouse in the photo has a significant advantage - the structure is light in weight, which means it will not shrink during operation. Among the disadvantages, it should be noted that during precipitation, moisture penetrates through the cracks of the frame and then accumulates inside it. This problem should be solved in advance.

Designing a future bathhouse

A frame bath project can be the construction of either a small building consisting of a steam room and a dressing room, or a two-story building on suburban area. The choice depends on the wishes and financial capabilities of the owner. You can also make a panel bathhouse with your own hands, but without certain skills it will be difficult.

When building a modest-sized frame bathhouse with your own hands, a simple strip or column foundation will be sufficient. You will need to purchase dry timber with a cross-section of at least 20x20 millimeters and an edged board. If the future bathhouse must have at least three rooms, then a more serious foundation will be required.

To save materials, it can be arranged as a dressing room attached veranda and then inside the small bath building there will be enough space for a washing room and steam room.

When building two-story frame baths, you need to remember that they are the most fire hazardous and in the event of a fire, the fire will spread very quickly, and getting down from the top floor will become problematic.

Creating a wooden base

Self-construction of a small frame bathhouse, as a rule, does not require the construction of a foundation due to its lightness. But to prevent the walls from becoming damp, you need to make a foundation.

In the case where you plan to build a bathhouse no larger than 3x4 meters in size, and the walls and roof are light, then it is enough to create a simple wooden foundation, which is secured along the edges with stakes. Such a basis is considered especially a good decision when carrying out construction on clayey, seasonally mobile soils that do not have excessive moisture levels.

Construction of a columnar foundation

This type foundations for a frame bath are made in the presence of high groundwater. They construct a columnar version of the foundation without the involvement of special equipment and a team of workers (more details: " "). You need to have a drill, plastic or asbestos pipes at your disposal and be able to mix cement mortar.

If you are building a frame bathhouse with your own hands, step-by-step instructions for arranging a columnar foundation look like this:

1. Level the land.
2. Mark the locations for installing the pillars.
3. Holes are drilled and waterproofing is placed at the bottom.
4. Gradually pour the concrete solution and raise the pipe, which is fixed at the 20-30 centimeter mark. When the concrete hardens, it is reinforced.
5. If the base is ready, the pipe is filled with solution to the end.
6. Using a strong beam, a grillage is formed.

Block base for a bath

Do-it-yourself frame bath projects, if it has a large area and it is planned to install a heavy stove in it, require the creation of a reliable, strong foundation from reinforced concrete blocks. But it is allowed to equip such a foundation on soil with a freezing depth of no more than a meter.

Pile-screw option

Sequencing:

1. Designate the location for installation of the piles.
2. They drill holes of the required size, based on the characteristics of the soil.
3. The piles are screwed into the soil gradually.
4. Assemble and secure the harness.

Strip foundation

Such a foundation is installed when personal plot heaving soil.

The work on its construction is carried out step by step:

1. Markings are made on the site and a trench is dug, the width of which is 40 centimeters and the depth is approximately 50 centimeters.
2. The hole is filled with sand layer by layer until the ground level is reached, compacted each time and watered with water to ensure compact shrinkage.
3. They construct formwork 50 centimeters high and 30 centimeters wide. For greater strength, it is reinforced using rods and metal pipes.
4. Pour the concrete solution in several approaches (without allowing the previous layer to dry) or at a time.
5. Roofing felt is laid on top of the concrete to waterproof the frame walls.

Projects and drawings of a two-story frame bathhouse provide for the provision of the most reliable support on any type of soil, with the exception of floating ones. The base is a prefabricated strip foundation.

Installation and insulation of floor coverings

Bars with a cross-section of 5x5 centimeters are nailed to the bottom of the logs in the main rooms of the bathhouse building. Rough coating boards are mounted on top of them, then roofing felt (for waterproofing), followed by mineral wool slabs 10 centimeters high or expanded polystyrene. Before laying the final finishing material for the floor, glassine is laid (to provide a vapor barrier).

The floors in the washing area can be arranged differently:

1. To ensure that the floor surface is warm in any weather and dries quickly, a separate foundation should be created around the perimeter of the room.
2. The soil is removed to a depth of 50 centimeters and a 10-centimeter layer of gravel and sand is poured into the resulting trench. If water enters such a drainage hole, it will go into the ground and a pit will not be required.
3. For this floor, it is advisable to use asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 10 centimeters. They are laid directly on the foundation and filled with concrete so that they do not move.
4. Then a 4-5 cm thick edged round board is laid on the pipes, maintaining a gap of 6-7 millimeters and using rubber gaskets which are fixed with nails.
5. Then the floor material is pressed down with baseboards.

Walling

If we are building a frame bathhouse, after the foundation is prepared, we can begin building the walls. Before doing this, make sure that the wood is well dried. The type of wood used is not particularly important, with the exception of birch, since it will quickly rot. The main thing is that the wood has low thermal conductivity.

When choosing materials for external cladding, preference should be given to pine and larch, while aspen is best suited for interior finishing. After completion of construction, the outside of the building is covered with an antiseptic, for example, Texturol. It is necessary to monitor the quality of the work performed so that repairs to the bathhouse are not required too early.

Inside, a do-it-yourself bathhouse made from boards, when finishing the walls with clapboard, is sanded and coated with furniture varnish in several layers. The wooden lining inside the steam room and washing room is treated with a special impregnation.

Construction of walls on the foundation

Most reliable design The bottom trim is considered to be made of high-quality timber, having, for example, a cross-section of 10x10 centimeters. It is connected at the quarter corners and securely fastened with nails.

Intermediate racks are installed along the perimeter of the walls, made from beams with a cross-section of 10x10 centimeters. Floor logs are also created from paired boards with a cross-section of 15x5 centimeters. They are placed on the waterproofing of the base of the bathhouse.

Installation of finished walls

People who have experience in how to build a frame bathhouse advise building and fastening the walls for this building on the ground, after which they should be lifted and installed in place.

It’s more convenient to do it this way, since your hands won’t get too numb. In addition, when using this technology, it is possible to build both walls and a foundation at the same time if several people work.

Construction of the truss structure

Typically, boards with a section of 15x5 centimeters are used for floor beams and rafters in frame baths. They are placed on the edge and fastened together. As a result, a distance of 10x12 centimeters is obtained between the rafters. In a vertical position they are fixed with “kerchiefs”, and on top they are combined with a ridge beam of a similar section.

The beams extend outward approximately 40 centimeters. The sheathing is made from boards 25 cm thick, it is laid in the direction from the ridge.

To fasten the rafter forms, special metal plates. It is much easier to assemble such a structure on the ground next to the building, and then lift it up and install it there ready-made.

From roofing materials best choice there will be soft tiles (if a light bathhouse is being built on a conditional foundation) and metal tiles (if a large building is being built). When it is not planned to build an attic, then external roof insulation is required.

Exterior wall decoration

As practice has shown, the construction of frame baths is best done from OSB boards. The fact is that they are multi-layered and do not move or warp, as happens with natural wood. But a bathhouse made of OSB or other materials needs external finishing. One option is plastering or painting.

The modern construction market offers a huge selection of finishing materials, and therefore it does not matter how simple the design of the bathhouse is from the outside, since it can be given an expensive appearance.

The most popular and in demand of them now are:

1. Lining. This decorative finishing material is the most accessible and easy to install for external upholstery of frame baths. Such buildings look very solid. On the external wall, the lining is placed horizontally after waterproofing has been made from glassine, the sheets of which are fixed overlapping and the edges are taped. If the work is done efficiently, unnecessary moisture will not be able to penetrate inside the bathhouse.
2. Thermal panels. Often the construction of a frame building requires wall insulation, which can be done with their help. Thermal panels have a three-layer structure. It contains between two polyvinyl chloride layers thermal insulation material(mineral wool or polystyrene foam). The surface of thermal panels, as a rule, looks like masonry and is sprinkled with compressed stone chips on top. The panels have mutual grooves, and after they are laid, a monolithic pattern is obtained, reminiscent of brick or stone walls. The finishing of the façade of the bathhouse is carried out using ordinary self-tapping screws - they will fix the material to the profiles.
3. Facing brick. A frame bathhouse fits perfectly into the landscape of any garden or summer cottage on which a frame bathhouse is built. brickwork. An even row always looks beautiful on a bathhouse building. The cost of facing a frame structure with brick will be much cheaper than building an entire bathhouse from it. In addition, between brick finishing And wooden walls You can add additional insulation.
4. Vinyl siding. This is the most popular modern cladding material used for cladding frame bath buildings. Siding has an affordable price and is easy to install. In addition, the market offers a wide selection of textures, colors and thicknesses of products.
5. Block house. Frame bath, the façade of which is lined with this the latest material, looks like a log structure. It is almost impossible to distinguish such a building from a real log house.

Internal insulation and vapor barrier

Improvement of the bathhouse premises of a frame bath from the inside involves carrying out work to prevent the accumulation of moisture as a result of temperature changes. The fact is that inside the structure in winter time year is very hot, and the weather outside is cold. Hence the need to install a vapor barrier. Most simple solution This problem is caused by laying polyethylene film under the interior clapboard trim.

You should approach the work of covering the steam room room responsibly. In this case, you will need a high-quality vapor barrier made of glassine, aluminum foil, polyethylene film, etc.

It is not recommended to use materials such as roofing felt or roofing felt in a steam room, since under the influence of high temperatures they will begin to emit an unpleasant specific odor. Experts recommend using Ursoy roll material 50 millimeters thick for internal insulation of frame baths.

It is laid out between vertical posts, secured with nailed slats. In some places, the heat insulator can be fixed to external boards, but using special nails with a rubber washer above the head.

As a result of the work done, you should get some kind of cake for the walls of the bathhouse from the following layers:

• external lining;
• glassine;
• polyethylene film;
• internal lining.

The main point that should not be forgotten is the need to leave a 5 cm air gap.

Particular attention is paid to the steam room, where it is important to ensure the “thermos effect”. For this reason, it is recommended to place the heat insulator with foil inside the room. On the ceiling you need to use not only foil Ursa, but also regular insulation, laying it in a layer of 5 centimeters.

As for the walls and ceiling of the steam room, it is advisable to use aspen lining for finishing, which has healing properties. Boards, namely poplar or tongue-and-groove linden, are also suitable.

Ventilation

Before making a frame bathhouse, they carefully consider the arrangement of high-quality ventilation. If the building is small, an asbestos cement exhaust pipe with a cross-section of 12 centimeters will be sufficient. They take her to the attic.

Such projects have many advantages, including the possibility of construction without the involvement of craftsmen, exclusively with your own hands. The article contains a description of the process, as well as photos and videos that will help you understand the construction of the building, from the foundation to the roof.

People who want to get quick results at a relatively low price prefer to build a frame bathhouse. You can do the work at any time of the year, as soon as you want to get your own steam room, and the absence of shrinkage characteristic of a wooden structure makes it possible not to delay finishing. You need to start by choosing a project - you can create it according to an individual sketch or purchase a ready-made one. At this stage you need to consider:

• number of floors;
• the presence of additional buildings - attics, terraces, etc.;
• arrangement of rooms - including the steam room: it can be separate or built-in;

• the location of the heater in order to properly design the ventilation and chimney;
• roof configuration and type of covering for it - this will allow you to calculate required power rafter system and floors;
• communication scheme;
• materials that you plan to use for the construction of the bathhouse, including for the final finishing;
• location of construction - including whether the structure will be a separate building or an extension of the house.

Advice. When planning to build a bathhouse, be sure to take into account the characteristics of the soil on your site. The choice of foundation type depends on this. For walls, prepare boards from aspen, linden or larch - these species hardly deform and retain heat well.

To use a frame bath even in the cold season, it must be insulated. This question should be asked in advance in order to select suitable material and include it in the cost of the project. Mineral wool and fiberglass are considered optimal.

One of the most significant disadvantages of a frame structure is its susceptibility to weather conditions. During precipitation, moisture gets into the cracks of the building, which collects from the inside and gradually destroys the building, so before building a bathhouse you should think about a vapor barrier. Usually between internal lining and a special foil film or glassine is laid as insulation.

Attention! It is undesirable to use roofing felt for this purpose. When heated, it becomes a source of a specific and very unpleasant odor.

Laying the foundation: foundation, bottom frame and floors

Most often, for a frame structure that is light in weight, a columnar foundation is prepared. You can make one of the simplest options with your own hands - a base made of asbestos-cement pipes into which concrete mortar is poured. To complete this work you will need:

1. Drill holes about 1.5 m deep and 0.2 m in diameter.
2. Insert pipes with a diameter of 0.1 m into them. Cover the empty spaces with sand and compact it well.
3. Determine horizontalness over the entire surface using a level. Make appropriate notes on each pipe.
4. Prepare a solution of water, sand, small crushed stone and cement.
5. Cut the pipes to the required mark and pour thoroughly mixed concrete inside each of them.

Advice. If you have never made a columnar foundation, but have dealt with a strip foundation, feel free to use the option you are familiar with. It will also withstand the frame structure well.

The strength and durability of the bathhouse will be ensured by proper piping at the top and bottom. To make the bottom one, you need to lay a layer of boards or timber on the foundation and secure it firmly. This will become the basis for the floor and walls. You need to start installing the piping after the foundation is completely ready. For work, it is necessary to prepare boards with a cross section of 5x10 cm. They are pre-treated with an antiseptic.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. Waterproofing the structure with roofing felt.
2. Marking the walls and laying out along the outer contours of the boards (outside). You need to connect them to each other with nails.
3. Connection using base frame supports. Control of horizontal laying.
4. Insertion of logs for subsequent flooring. The distance between them is about 0.5 m.
5. Treatment of the entire structure with a composition that prevents wood rotting.

Advice. The piping and logs can be attached to the foundation pipes using pre-walled metal plates. This will give additional strength to the future bathhouse. Expanded clay blocks can be placed under the logs to strengthen the entire structure.

At this stage it is advisable to start laying the floor. It can be wood or concrete, leaking or not. It all depends on whether you are going to use the sauna only in the summer or all year round. In the first case, you can get by with a simple wooden flooring laid at intervals through which water flows out - this is a leaky structure. If you want to make a good-quality heated floor, you must first arrange a rough layer: stuff plywood onto the joists, put insulating film and insulation on top. Then you need to lay out the top, finishing floor covering and secure it with nails.

Advice. Flooring boards must be treated in advance so that the smallest roughness does not cause discomfort for guests in the bathhouse.

Rules for building walls. Top trim and roofing

Before assembling the base of the bathhouse - the frame - you need to fulfill 2 conditions:

• dry the material well;
• make markings for future frame racks.

After this you can begin installation:

1. Install 2 corner posts and several intermediate posts. The distance between them directly depends on the dimensions of the windows and doors and should be: 40 cm - if you plan to join with other walls and arrange the opening; 60 cm - if adhesion to other walls is not provided.
2. Check if the design is rectangular in shape.
3. Sheathe the frame with particle boards (from the selected corner). Fasten with screws.
4. Place a few more racks and cover them in a similar way.
5. Make the top trim and attach it to the vertical posts.

Then you can begin installing the roof. Prepare beams 150x150 mm - these will be ceiling beams. Place them on the top frame, maintaining a distance of 0.5x0.6 m. Mount a temporary boardwalk 5 cm thick on top. Assemble the rafters on the ground and install them on the roof. If the height of the roof ridge is small, then installation can be done directly at the top.

Advice. Before installing the last rafter structure, mark out the particle boards along it that will cover the pediment.

Depending on what material you are going to use as a roofing covering, you need to decide on the appearance of the sheathing installed on the rafters:

• for iron or soft roof(for example, roofing felt) you need to make a continuous surface;
• for metal tiles, gaps with a distance of 35 cm are acceptable;
• for slate or ondulin, you can take steps of 60 cm;
• When using natural tiles, you must first take into account its size.

After installing the sheathing, you need to lay the covering, and then install the windows and doors.

The outside of the bathhouse can be plastered, lined with boards or siding, and the inside can be imitated to look like natural wood. It is better to line the wall that separates the steam room from the relaxation room with bricks for fire safety purposes. You should not paint or varnish the interior surfaces: due to the high temperature, they will begin to release toxins. Take care of the construction thoroughly - and the bathhouse will serve you for many years.

A good bathhouse, made of high-quality material, designed and built individually, taking into account the personal needs of the owner, is the dream of any summer resident. Taking a steam bath, improving your health, or just having a good time in the company of friends or relatives is a real Russian tradition.

Nowadays, unfortunately, it is not possible to build a bathhouse from most building materials due to the state of the general economy of the state. Therefore, we suggest you consider the option of building a bathhouse with your own hands based on a wooden frame. It is easy, quick and inexpensive compared to building from natural wood, timber or stone.

This article provides step-by-step instructions for constructing a frame bathhouse, starting with the rules for choosing high-quality material, ending with the internal lining of the bathhouse premises, as well as several tips and recommendations from professionals.

Construction options

The construction of any bath implies the presence of four main functional premises:

• verandas (dressing room);
• rest rooms;
• shower;
• the steam room itself;

Sometimes owners combine several rooms, increasing their functionality without losing the level of comfort. The size of the bathhouse depends mainly on the number of people who will use it. The most common options:

• 120x250 cm. Ideal sauna for one person. It consists of two rooms: a steam room (120x150 cm) and a dressing room (100x120 cm). You can change clothes in the dressing room. If necessary, you can arrange a corner with a shower in the steam room.
• 250x250 cm. This option is suitable for two people. It again consists of two of the same rooms (steam room 250x150 cm and dressing room 100x250 cm). If desired, it is possible to arrange a place to store fuel for the stove.
• 300x300 cm. This sauna is suitable for use by three people. The space inside can be organized in different ways. For example, make a steam room 300x150, and put a shower stall in it, 100x150 cm. The remaining space can be equipped as a relaxation room, which will simultaneously serve as a dressing room.
• 400x400 cm. The most ideal option if you plan that four to five people will use the bathhouse at the same time. You can leave a square meter for the steam room itself. In this case, the dressing room will be 200x150 cm, and the rest room will be 400x200 cm. Part of the area of ​​this room can be allocated for a shower by placing a stall in one of the corners.

Please remember that these are just a few of the many options available. You have the right to change the parameters of each room, depending on your personal preferences and financial condition.

Preliminary work: planning and material selection

First, you need to draw a sketch, create a drawing of the future bathhouse, and also draw up a work plan that will help give coherence and organization at each stage of construction.

It is important to conduct a small analysis, studying all the nuances of constructing a frame bathhouse, the advantages and disadvantages of both the bathhouse itself and the materials used. It is also necessary to take a soil sample to find out its composition: construction work will take place on it, and if the soil is clay, which tends to settle quickly, then in any case you will need a foundation (in rare cases you can do without it). The bathhouse can be either an extension of the house, in which case the entire space can be equipped as a steam room, the bathroom will serve as a shower room, or separately. The drawing should indicate, in addition to the appearance of the future building, its features: the location of windows and doors (usually this concerns supporters folk signs and Feng Shui), general dimensions, interior design premises, number of floors and so on.

According to Feng Shui, the windows should be directed to the east, and the door, in order to improve the circulation of Qi energy, should be located in the south direction, and it should open into the room. The number of windows should not exceed three for each doorway.

The main advantages of a frame bath are:

• relative cheapness compared to other building materials;
• ease of installation. You don't have to resort to the help of a team of professional builders. Everything is quite simple, you can build a bathhouse alone;
• no need for a massive foundation;
• ease of wiring of all communications;
• no shrinkage;
• high speed heating rooms with proper insulation.

The disadvantages include:

• poor sound, vibration and waterproofing;
• the need for additional thermal insulation of all premises. This is necessary in order to prevent heat loss, as well as create some kind of tightness;
• Difficult to maintain and operate. Due to the fact that moisture penetrates into a frame bath more easily, for example, during rain, the wall insulation can quickly become unusable, and replacing it is quite problematic, since the wall covering will have to be dismantled.

Mineral wool, glass wool, polystyrene foam blocks and many others can be used as insulation. The use of liquid glass is not recommended!

From the materials we will need:

• cement (can be M400 grade for building a foundation);
• sand (coarsely sifted, quartz, quarry or purified river sand is suitable for building a foundation);
• insulating material (steam, hydro);
• insulation (about 5 cm thick);
• roofing material;
• gravel;
• timber 10x10 cm (for assembling the lower trim);
• timber 5x15 cm (for mounting the frame);
• beam 4x5 cm (for arranging struts for racks);
• plastic pipes (diameter from 5 cm for water drainage);
• clapboards or any other material for interior cladding.

Since a frame bath is a very lightweight structure, the foundation can be built using a simplified system. Both a strip foundation, which is poured under all load-bearing walls, and a nested foundation are suitable, but the second requires stable soil, otherwise the building may fall apart.

Foundation

This article will discuss two main foundation options: nested and strip. For the first option, you need to purchase special piles for the foundation; they can be made of metal, cement, or other materials, or you can make them yourself. There are two types of piles: bored and driven. For the first, holes are drilled around the perimeter into which wooden formwork and a metal support column are inserted, after which concrete mortar is poured inside, after some time the formwork is removed, and the resulting space is filled with sand, gravel or a mixture of them. If you chose the second option, then below are step-by-step instructions for you.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Immediately before building the foundation, the area on which the bathhouse will be built must be cleared of debris and the top layer of soil must be dug up using a shovel.
2. We drive small wooden pegs into the ground at the corners of the perimeter, and stretch a thread between them to prevent displacement when installing the piles.
3. On the market you can find metal piles already equipped at one end with a small drill, which will help you easily penetrate the ground. The rods should be about 10–30 cm in diameter, this depends on the thickness of the future walls, and about a meter in length. This is necessary so that each support sinks 50–70 centimeters underground to the level of soil freezing, and rises another 30–50 cm above the surface. All rods are coated with a primer or special compounds that prevent oxidation and corrosion of the metal. The supports should be placed at a distance of 1–1.5 m from each other. On top, if this is not provided by the manufacturer, to increase stability, you can stuff a square hat also made of metal 20x20 cm and 0.5–1 cm thick. Use a plumb line or a spirit level with a magnet to ensure the pile is perfectly level.
4. Holes are drilled in the metal caps, which are later filled with concrete mortar, with their help the grillage will be attached. As a grillage, you can use thickened beams 20x20 cm (then there is no need to drill holes in the supports), or channels, or reinforced concrete slabs.

For greater stability, you can build a strip foundation. Of course, this option will cost a little more, but you will be calm and confident that the bathhouse will last for many years.

A strip foundation is a very good option for small buildings if the soil in your garden area does not tend to move, and with high-quality hydro- and thermal insulation you do not have to worry about the floor and walls being too cold.

Step-by-step instructions No. 2 include the following points:

1. Identical to the first step in the construction of a pile foundation.
2. Identical to the second step in the construction of a pile foundation.
3. Next, you need to dig a trench 60 cm deep and 40 cm wide around the perimeter, as well as under the load-bearing walls (indicators may vary depending on the design of the bathhouse).
4. The bottom is covered 1/3 of the depth with sand, which is filled with water so that it “sits” better.
5. A layer of gravel or stone/broken brick is placed on top of the sand.
6. It’s worth going over the top with a construction vibrator, which will help fill the resulting voids efficiently.
7. The gravel layer is again covered with sand and carefully compacted. As a result, the height of all layers should correspond to the ground level.
8. A wooden formwork 20–30 cm high is constructed on top, inside which a reinforced belt is laid. The entire space is filled with cement mortar in a ratio of 1:3:3 (for each bucket of liquid cement there are three buckets of cleaned and sifted sand and three buckets of crushed stone).
9. After all manipulations, when the solution has hardened sufficiently, the formwork is dismantled. For the first few days, and in hot weather for about a week or a little more, the foundation is watered to prevent cracks from appearing. The solution will finally become durable, turning into a monument, in a month.

When building the foundation, do not forget to dig a trench into which you need to place a drain pipe - it will connect the floor of the bathhouse and the drainage well. In this case, the floor should be equipped at a slight angle, and also additionally insulated, for example, with roofing felt.

The floor can also be insulated by compacting the soil, adhering to the angle of inclination of the floor covering. Next, a pipe is laid in the trench and covered with sand or gravel. A layer of crushed stone (10–20 cm) is laid on top, and a lower concrete screed (2–5 cm) is poured on top of it and laid on the screed bulk insulation, for example, expanded clay, which is covered with a layer of waterproofing on top. After all the insulation work, the last layer of the subfloor is poured - an upper concrete screed (5–6 cm) sealed with a reinforced mesh. A finishing floor is laid on top of the subfloor; most often, boards, ceramic slabs, porcelain stoneware or soapstone slabs are used for this.

Important! Please note that if you are planning to build a heater in a steam room, then it is necessary to allocate a place for it at the construction stage and equip a separate foundation there, which ideally should not be in contact with the main one, since due to a large temperature difference, its destruction may be observed.

Walling

After building the foundation, you can begin building the walls. For frame walls, a new base is created, which is constructed in the same way as a grillage using tenon and grooves. At the corners you can use the same beams as for the base; they must be walled up in concrete.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. To begin with, all material is pre-dried. For the frame, it is not recommended to use coniferous species, since when heated they release a resinous substance, due to which there is a chance of ignition of the entire building, and birch, since it is more susceptible to rotting processes than other species. For these purposes perfect choice there will be material from deciduous trees (aspen, linden, oak, larch), because these raw materials have high level thermal insulation, which is so important for the construction of a bathhouse.
2. The lower trim must be tightly secured using anchor bolts.
3. Next, the construction of wooden racks begins from the corners along the load-bearing walls. The beams are fastened using galvanized corners (the most reliable option), or grooves are cut out in the bottom trim, into which the edges of the beam are then inserted and nailed using nails, bolts or special construction staples. The distance between the beams is usually 60 cm; if an opening is planned in the wall, then the number can be increased by 40 cm, but no more.
4. Temporary slopes are installed between the beams, which prevent the movement of the racks during construction work.

Do not forget to check each installed support using a plumb line or building level.

1. An upper frame is mounted on top, which helps to better secure the support posts and is the basis for the roof rafter system, also using metal corners.
2. A special groove is cut in the beams at the corners of the top trim, and they are secured with 2-4 nails (depending on the thickness of the walls).
3. Then they begin to install permanent supports. Boards with a cross-section smaller than the racks themselves are used as slopes. They are most often attached to the inside of the bathhouse, four for each support: two upper and two lower.
4. Next, on the outside, all beams are treated with furniture varnish in 2-3 layers, and on the inside - with an antiseptic; only the counters in the steam room and shower should not be treated.

External wall cladding is an important procedure. The service life of the entire building depends on how well you take care of it.

1. After all the construction work on the construction of the walls is completed, we proceed to cladding the walls from the outside. To do this, it is attached from the outside around the perimeter waterproofing material using construction staples on OSB sheets.
2. A frame of small boards is mounted on top of it (not always), and on top of them is a facing material, often clapboard boards, or a block house. This creates some ventilation. Looks beautiful, stylish and elegant. The lining is attached horizontally. To prevent moisture from getting into the seams between the boards, we recommend installing them overlapping.
3. Insulation blocks are laid under the waterproofing. In places under the slopes, blocks of the same mineral wool should be carefully cut and inserted.
4. The insulation is covered with another layer of waterproofing on top.
5. The last layer is OSB sheets; a wooden frame can also be mounted on them, on which the internal lining will be installed in the future.

Roof arrangement

Despite the fact that usually installing a roof is a very labor-intensive process, which is simply impossible without the participation of professional builders, in small sauna 6x6 m, or even less, it will not be difficult.

The roof can be either single, double or hipped. The choice again depends on the personal preferences of the owner and his financial capabilities. Consider the option of a gable roof.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. The first step will be to install the Mauerlat - a supporting structure on top of which the roof truss system is attached.
2. After the rafters, in order to make the structure more reliable and stable, vertical supports are installed, which are secured using the same galvanized corners. If necessary, at the stage of installing the rafter system, access to the attic is made.
3. A sheathing of boards 15–20 cm thick is installed on the front boards, and roofing material is already placed on it. This procedure is usually carried out starting from the roof ridge.

The roof must be insulated. First, waterproofing is attached, under which blocks of the same mineral wool are installed, and a vapor barrier is placed under the insulation, which can be used as compacted foil. Additionally, for greater tightness, the insulation is covered with polyethylene film. Next comes work on the interior lining.

The finishing touches. Interior decoration

At the final stage, the floor, walls, and ceiling are installed and insulated (more on this above), windows and doors, and interior furniture are installed. Particular attention is paid to the stove, because the stove is the soul and heart of every Russian bath. You can make it yourself or buy it ready-made. The stove can be laid out independently from brick or soapstone, but this design takes up a lot of space, so it is better to replace it with modern electric analogues.

As already mentioned, it is better to use deciduous trees rather than coniferous trees for the ceiling and walls. All electrics in the bathhouse must be covered with moisture-proof material. Buy wiring that is double braided and covered with non-flammable material; be sure to use corrugation for the wires to prevent mechanical damage, because dismantling a wall or ceiling covering, repairing it, and then putting it back in place is not easy or quick.

Take the quality of ventilation seriously. Take care of installation special valves and ventilation anemostats, which will help remove accumulated moisture after water procedures.

Let's summarize

As you may have noticed, there are a huge number of options for building a frame bath, the choice of which depends only on you. Use quality materials, do not skimp on the thoroughness of the work - and then your bathhouse will last for many years, delighting you and your loved ones.

The construction of a bathhouse is necessary on any summer cottage and country house. But traditional options, which use brick or timber, have a number of disadvantages. But frame buildings deprived of them must be erected using a special technology.

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Peculiarities

It is very difficult to build buildings, even such minor ones as a bathhouse, with your own hands from bricks or logs. You will need to spend a lot of money on materials and prepare perfect drawings. And without the help of someone it will not be possible to complete such work. Therefore, frame projects deserve increased attention. Moreover, the consumption of wood compared to conventional timber structures is reduced by exactly half.

The buildings turn out to be relatively light, even if they are made in dimensions of 6 by 4 or 6x6 m; if the size of the structure is 3x4, 4x4 m, this circumstance is even more pronounced. Therefore, there is no need to prepare solid foundations. You can simultaneously finish external and internal walls, and the overall installation speed increases noticeably. The smallest area of ​​the steam room is 250x250 cm. It is recommended to use asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 100 and a length of 4000 mm, which are filled with concrete, for the foundation.

All wooden elements are thoroughly dried before installation. The rafters are assembled on the ground, after which they are lifted one by one and placed above the frame posts. The roof is made only in a ventilated version.

It is advisable not to raise the ceiling in the steam room above 210 cm. Only after finishing the frame is completed, the bathhouse is divided into separate rooms.

Advantages and disadvantages

The undeniable advantages of building frame baths are:

• Ease of construction;
• cheap design (low cost for materials);
• simplification of foundation work in comparison with other options;
• poor thermal conductivity;
• the ability to make communication channels inside the walls and not spoil the appearance;

• elimination of shrinkage;
• no need for complex construction equipment;
• environmental safety (rare for country budget buildings);
• the ability to complete all work without the involvement of specialists;
• exclusion of wet work - construction can be done in winter and even where there is no stable water supply;
• wide variety of finishing options.

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But after carefully studying the reviews of owners and developers, you can immediately detect certain shortcomings. Each of them can be eliminated with timely measures, only because you need to properly understand the possible problems. Frame baths in their pure form cool quickly, and therefore an ugly fungus appears inside after a short time. To cope with this difficulty, you need to use only the highest quality insulation.

Polystyrene foam or simple mineral wool do not serve effectively enough, and the first option also catches fire easily.

You can extend the service life of a panel bath if you impregnate all used timber and boards with special antiseptics. After 18-24 months, the shrinkage of the frame is sometimes 80-100 mm. As a result, the external and internal decoration is deformed. This risk can be reduced if you use lumber that has been kiln-dried.

Subtleties of design

The simplicity of construction and its accessibility for non-professionals does not mean that you can safely start work without preparation. Even having experience in such work does not give grounds for a complacent attitude. A well-thought-out design and drawings of the future structure will help you avoid serious mistakes.

On a small area (3x4 or 4x4 m), it is necessary to maximize the intensity of space use. If possible, such small baths should be avoided altogether if there is sufficient territory for development.

The most simple circuit– when the steam room, shower, boiler room and dressing room are combined. But such a step is acceptable only for mini-structures or transportable bathhouses, because it is not possible to distribute the temperature as expected. Therefore, they try to create, even with the smallest dimensions, even very small, but autonomous rooms. A 3x4 m bath can easily be heated by a small boiler or a wood-fired stove. Some designers even find the opportunity to supplement it with a veranda or terrace.

Minimum-sized projects have a number of valuable properties:

• low consumption of building materials;
• almost complete elimination of waste;
• high speed of work;
• strength and reliability (since in a small area there is no need to save on the quality of components).

It should be remembered that even a small one-story extension to a house must be registered with the cadastral registration authorities.

On a larger site, it is quite possible to build a 6x6 bathhouse: it will allow you not only to wash off the dirt from yourself, but also to invite the whole family and even a group of friends. Typical projects with such sides involve a significant area of ​​the rest room - it can reach 20 m2. Most often, this is where the staircase connecting the first floor with the attic is located.

A two-story bathhouse is superior to a one-story bathhouse simply because it allows you to organize additional space for living and leisure. Often there are rooms for receiving guests, bedrooms, billiard tables or other sports equipment.

Thanks to frame technology, the vast majority of costs relate to the foundation of the building, and if it already exists, subsequent stages of work will be much more affordable.

In the construction of two floors, the first step is to create a foundation from support pillars, and the base must be covered with a layer of waterproofing. Experts recommend building a truss system for a bathhouse from boards with a cross-section of 10x5 cm, and the lathing usually uses a board 2.2 cm thick.

The frame-panel structure is assembled according to the principle of a toy construction set. It is not difficult to find combinations of elements suitable for the construction of a washing room with a swimming pool; then they are simply placed on the prepared frame. The kit usually comes with detailed technological instructions that help to avoid mistakes - as long as they are strictly followed. In the case of mobile bathhouses, everything is even simpler - they are not assembled construction sites, and at industrial enterprises. All that remains for customers is to supplement the finished blocks with the necessary parts.

Most projects involve the use of gable roofs; the attic space under them is not organized or it is very small. Bath equipment is often placed inside. When choosing the type of foundation, they are guided by the category of soil and its condition. The mass of the building, even if we take into account the presence of a second floor in a number of options, is relatively small. Design insulation indicators depend on whether the bathhouse will be used year-round or whether it is intended only for the warm season.

Calculation of the quantity of materials

It is not so difficult to calculate the need for metal frame assemblies: any seller can do this after knowing the required dimensions and design. In standard projects, the exact metal consumption is standardized, but if they are made according to an individual order, then all calculations are undertaken by the designers. But they still need to be controlled, since even with iron materials, some builders can make “mistakes” in their favor. Before calculating the wood needs, you need to choose whether timber or logs will be used in this case. Timber-based structures are preferable because:

• shrinkage is noticeably reduced;
• there are no strict restrictions on size and geometry;
• the work is greatly simplified.

The strongest timber, according to experts, is made from coniferous trees; moreover, they are less susceptible to the destructive effects of wood-gnawing insects and microorganisms. Standard sizes timber taken into account in the calculations range from 10x10 to 20x20 cm. The volume is calculated by multiplying the length by the height and by the thickness of a single element.

Some masters claim that you need to add 10-30% to the result obtained. But this step is frankly stupid, because, on the contrary, you will have to spend less timber - it is not mounted on the openings of windows and doors.

Inexperienced customers and even builders replace the length of the perimeter with area, and then find themselves forced to stop work, purchase missing materials and spend money on their transportation. To avoid mistakes, you should also carefully check the labeling and accompanying documents. In some cases, price tags and sellers’ speeches indicate several big sizes timber than it actually is.

To save additional money, you can replace the timber with boards, and make the cladding from plastic lining or profile sheets. Only boards of the highest category are acceptable for work.

Construction stages

Having calculated the need for materials and chosen the dimensions of the frame bath, you need to understand the sequence of construction work. There are no fundamental differences from the construction of other bathhouses or city houses in the order of stages, but each of them reveals its own specifics.

Foundation

So, when constructing a foundation, it is best to use columnar structures. They are assembled from asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of approximately 10 cm, reinforced from the inside with concrete. Then the external contours are marked and, using a drill, holes are drilled that go 2 m deep.

Please note: the amount of depth in some cases may be greater or less. This decision is made based on soil type and groundwater depth. Each pipe is inserted into the opening and filled with coarse sand on top, and it is thoroughly compacted. When pouring, concrete is used, which is prepared from:

• 1 part cement M200;
• 4 parts sand;
• 7.5 parts of fine crushed stone;
• 3 parts clean water.

According to step by step instructions, the filling of the pipes should be smooth, and a strong steel plate is placed on each of them when ready. The installed pipes must dry, and only then it comes time to install the lower piping. The box is treated with disinfectants and covered with a layer of waterproofing. Logs are placed on top of the frame, and a subfloor is formed from them. In the gap separating the structure of the joists and the framing, roofing felt is laid, and sometimes this place is generously coated with mastic.

The construction of a foundation under a frame bathhouse, which has two or three floors, must take into account the total load and snow pressure. Wooden bases It is allowed to do only for miniature baths, the total area of ​​which is 12 square meters. m or less. Increased attention will need to be paid to calculating the diameter of the timber and leveling the surfaces.

Be sure to place several bars at the same level, trimmed along the perimeter with stakes. Such systems perform well on clay soils, where they serve consistently for many years.

During the construction of baths on screw piles there is no need to join supporting structures using timber or channels. Such supports help to build even on the slope of a hill or on a heavily eroded bank of a river with a rapid current. The introduction of piles into the ground is carried out either with the use of special equipment, or through the efforts of several builders at the same time. When working, it is strictly forbidden to deviate the support from the horizon line.

At every fourth turn, the position of the pile is carefully verified using a magnetic level. It is forbidden to remove structures that have tilted when twisted, according to the technology; their position is corrected using a rotary level. To get rid of the gaps separating the piles and the surrounding soil, you can use any durable concrete and fragments of reinforcement. After completing the installation, the piles are checked for evenness. If everything is in order, the heads are welded on top of them; A drain in a bathhouse is always equipped not only in the washing room, but also in the steam room.

Many people try to install a bathhouse on a strip base. This solution is acceptable even on soil prone to movement and subsidence, which can easily swell. The tape is divided into Finnish and Canadian; both schools of technology are simple, but require a careful and responsible approach. Monolithic foundations are erected directly on the construction site, and prefabricated ones are only laid and connected. Most often they focus on shallow depths (up to 50 cm), such a tape is evenly spread under the load-bearing walls.

Choice suitable option foundations are often difficult without geological surveys. The simplest check can be carried out independently: the type of soil and its visual characteristics are determined by digging a trench 150 cm deep. They carefully evaluate not only the height of groundwater, but also the level to which the ground freezes.

For any type of foundation, the construction site is cleared of grass and bushes, flowers and turf in advance. There should not even be stumps, roots or any objects that could interfere with construction.

Strong cords made of colored fabrics help to simplify marking. In accordance with the markings, you need to dig a recess for the foundation, which will be 50 cm deeper and 400 cm wider than the prepared landmark. The building's cushion is made of sand, which is generously filled with water and compacted. Then cover the first layer with crushed stone. Waterproofing is installed along the side planes of the trench. Traditionally, roofing felt is used, although it is increasingly being replaced by the more modern penetron.

The formwork is created as follows: the upper edge of the waterproofing is used for laying boards, their thickness is 50 mm, and their width is maximum 1.5 m. The boards must be laid without the slightest cracks, with an elevation of 30 cm above the ground. Then reinforcement is also carried out: tied wire reinforcement placed 50 mm below the top point of the formwork (later completely hidden by a layer of concrete). Concreting is done with a mixture of cement with sand and gravel; its thickness is similar to dense sour cream. Additional strengthening is achieved through plasticizers.

Recommended to cook building mixture yourself, as it is much faster than receiving ready mixture from the factory. In addition, this approach will help preserve the quality of the cold seam and avoid water seeping through it, which would damage the base. And, importantly, differences in cost can be neglected. Having completed the work, the foundation is covered with liquid-impermeable material. Concrete will harden in 24 hours, but will gain final strength only after a few weeks.

The formwork must be made using smooth and strong panels so that its appearance is ideal. The nails are driven strictly from the inside to the outside. If you do the opposite, removing the shields will be much more difficult. When working on formwork structures, you need to immediately think about the connections for sewerage, water supply and electrical cables.

If they are not provided immediately, then you will need to chisel and destroy the quality of the monolith.

It is quite acceptable to install a strip foundation in the form of a monolithic belt under a frame bathhouse if the fertile soil layer is removed and replaced with sand. Both a monolithic solution, a shallow structure, and a non-buried base are necessarily protected from the effects of frost heaving.

• For this use:
• drainage means;
• side edges;
• insulation around the blind area;

removal of heaving soils and replacing them with sand or crushed stone.

Tapes with shallow depth cannot be used on various slopes: there they will not withstand significant shear forces. When building on dusty sand or embankment, an expansion slab is placed underneath. A correctly executed monolith always has a greater height than width. Moreover, the difference is 2-4 times; Such a step will make it possible to make the basement part of the structure optimal; it will be possible to form both the beams and the ground floors.

Walls and floor

They begin to work by arranging special racks that will be secured by the upper harness. In between, other posts are added. They will make the sauna stronger and more stable. The box is covered with boards, they are attached with self-tapping screws. By sequentially assembling the parts, the structure is finally formed.

In most frame baths, the floors are created from logs and boards, but it will not be possible to accurately determine the appropriate size of these elements without complex calculations. But this is not necessary - private developers can easily make do with ready-made average values. In most cases, boards with a thickness of 30-40 mm and finishing logs based on timber with a cross-section of 100x150 mm are acceptable. The thickness of the board, expressed in millimeters, should approximately correspond to the gap between the joists, expressed in centimeters.

If thermal insulation is used, the gaps between the finished flooring joists are adjusted taking into account the insulating layer being created.

As for the basic materials, all long-lasting types of wood are suitable for creating a floor in a frame bath. But the poplar and so on soft wood unacceptable. Before purchasing and using, you should carefully check the dryness and integrity of the material, the absence of cracks, splits and other problems. Ideally, all lumber should be taken from one batch that has been kiln dried.

It is advisable to make the finishing flooring from edged or tongue-and-groove boards, since it will not require additional sanding, but the rough base can be unedged.

An alternative to wooden structures is often self-leveling flooring. This solution has become more and more popular over the years, pushing ceramic and stone surfaces into the background. The key advantages of self-leveling flooring can be considered:

• integrity of the created coating;
• high mechanical strength and excellent wear resistance;
• zero level of fire danger;
• absence of dust and harmful emissions during operation;
• a significant variety of design options, including decoration with three-dimensional drawings;
• Maintenance is much easier than caring for wooden structures.

But there are also objective weaknesses: for example, a self-leveling floor will finally harden only after a few days, when you can walk on a wooden floor right away. There is a high risk of scratches and dirt, and the cost of such coating is very high. It is recommended to make any bath floors with a slope towards the drain; this will prevent water and soap suds from spreading in all directions. The self-leveling floor can be made horizontally (without a slope) or the mixture can be poured onto a base that already has a slope. The first option requires carefully sealing the intersections of the floor with the walls, and the second is more difficult to implement, but directs all the liquid in the right direction at once.

You can’t just “pour” a self-leveling floor: its substrate is prepared very carefully. On top of the tree you need to lay powerful concrete screeds, and with reinforcement. The sooner the mixture is poured, the better - it quickly loses its fluidity, and if this happens before the end of the work, all costs will be in vain. Most often, two people fill the floors.

When working with walls, in most cases, the front cladding is made on the basis of lining or particle boards. Waterproofing is provided by parchment laid under the outer skin. Only then is insulation used, which must be ideally environmentally friendly and fire safe. The total thickness of the cake and its individual layers is determined by the climatic parameters of the territory and the peculiarities of using a frame bath.

A structure used year-round must have not only thicker walls, but also a special vapor barrier. The optimal solution for this is considered to be polyethylene film.

Painting wall paneling, even in dressing rooms, is undesirable, because fumes from even the safest paints and varnishes can be harmful to health. When thinking through the design of walls, special attention is paid to how ventilation ducts and electric wires. Since flammable materials are used for exterior finishing, and there is often excess moisture in the air, preference should be given to closed, thoroughly insulated cable ducts.

If the rooms are finished using boards, their thickness should be approximately 30 mm. With a smaller value, strength suffers; with a larger value, the structure becomes heavy.

Roof

The basic parts used in the construction of the roof of a frame bathhouse are gradually laid and assembled directly on the site. The truss must stand on the prepared frame base. Placing it on a rough surface helps to simplify the work on creating a roof. boardwalk. The model cake always includes ventilation systems, so the gap from the rafters to the counterbeam is filled with a vapor barrier. The sheathing must be attached to the timber.

Then it’s time to make gables from oriented slabs or quality boards. In most cases, it is worth limiting yourself to the simplest pitched roof, which can be done quickly and without unnecessary difficulties. But if you choose a completely original design, not every specialist will be able to complete the work correctly and within the allotted time.

What is very important, with the same area, gable solutions are 50-100% more expensive, and this difference is not justified even by their specific capabilities. If calculated correctly, a cover with one slope will last for many years and will be extremely convenient to use all this time.

Flat roofs It is not recommended to do it yourself in bathhouses. The cost-effectiveness of such a choice is only apparent - the need for powerful artificial ventilation when natural ventilation is weak absorbs all the savings. According to qualified builders, a pitched roof should be located at a general slope of 20 to 30 degrees. If this condition is met, liquid and solid precipitation will spontaneously descend down.

You can create a slope in two ways: deliberately making the walls unequal in height or installing racks. With the second option, less material is wasted, but the heat will be retained worse.

Experienced roofers know for sure that as the angle of the roof decreases, they have to use increasingly smooth facing materials. But at an angle of less than 10 degrees, even best solutions do not allow you to get rid of the resulting puddles and snow drifts. The Mauerlat is formed from coniferous timber with a cross-section of at least 15x15 cm. The outside is covered with a layer of waterproofing (smeared with mastic or wrapped in roofing felt). Rafters are made exclusively from smooth boards with a cross-section of 5x15 cm, which are made of hard wood.

With such dimensions, an optimal safety margin is achieved and it remains possible to attach insulation up to 15 cm thick, if necessary. Please note: the length of the rafters is calculated with reservation for overhangs, which improve the protection of the walls from water. All ends of the rafter legs are equipped with cuts for mauerlats, which are secured with nails or metal plates. The sheathing is attached to the legs of the rafters at right angles.

Under certain roofing materials that are prone to deformation, a continuous sheathing based on moisture-resistant plywood must be created.

In other cases, gratings are made of slats; their thickness varies from 2.5 to 3 cm. But in each specific case, of course, this thickness must be uniform throughout the entire volume. It is advisable to cover bathhouses with pitched roofs with ondulin, corrugated sheets, metal or soft tiles. If there is a simple ceiling below, without an attic or attic, you need to lay a slab or roll insulation. Regardless of this, use:

• hydrophobic film;
• fire retardant and antiseptic impregnations;
• special fasteners;
• carefully selected and tested tools.

Single-pitch roofs should rest on rafters spaced at intervals of 0.5-0.8 m. The roofing material should be attached to the base using special self-tapping screws, including caps made of synthetic rubber. These tops help block water seepage. If there are no specialized fasteners, you need to use simple self-tapping screws, supplementing them with external rubber gaskets. Then the gables are sewn up, a drain is installed - this completes the external work on the frame bathhouse.

Finishing

No matter how reliable and durable the created “box” is, it will not be possible to limit it to it. It is imperative to protect these structures from negative external influences and at the same time make them more attractive.

Finishing external walls helps developers and designers express their tastes and aesthetic priorities. Often they try to cover them with siding or clapboard. These materials are not much less popular than block house and plaster.

Before applying any cladding, you need to check the rough walls. There should not be even minor cracks on them, the joints of the sheathing should fit tightly to each other. Using vinyl siding, you can create a variety of visual pictures: and imitation simple tree, and a “brick” wall, and something high-tech in spirit. They perform no less well plastic panels, and if you need to increase the natural appearance of the bathhouse to the limit, you should choose a block house.

If you choose lining, it must be left for several days to allow acclimatization to take place.

Decorating a frame bath from the inside is no less important than the outside. It is recommended to give preference to environmentally friendly materials; their increased cost is fully justified. Selecting a design interior decoration Now there are no restrictions, you can use any style, not necessarily traditional Russian. The dressing rooms are finished with both deciduous and coniferous wood. But it is advisable to choose a color that is as calm and balanced as possible, taking into account the purpose of the bath.

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The washing compartments are covered with lining, pre-impregnated with mixtures that block rotting. Some consumers use plastic panels and even polycarbonate sheets. There is no place for coniferous wood in the steam room, with the exception of cedar. Among deciduous varieties, the first place invariably comes from linden, which does not burn when touched and does not fade during long-term use. In more budget projects, preference is given to aspen and alder.

You can decorate a brick sauna stove using tiles: this option is the simplest, cheapest and at the same time allows you to provide an attractive appearance. The tiles should not be hung on the masonry; they should rest on the base of the stove. You should avoid simple plastering; it does not give decent results even in dry rooms. The use of decorative stone sometimes brings good results.

If the stove is not made of brick, but is supplied to order, you should choose the solution that matches the chosen style.

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Ventilation

Even the most durable and reliable materials will not last long if moisture stagnates inside. And the constant accumulation of musty air will not bring pleasure to anyone. All these problems can be solved using carefully designed ventilation. In most cases, the choice is made between supply and exhaust and natural systems. Self-circulation is ensured by placing the air inlet at a height of 0.5 m from the floor, and the air outlet at approximately the same distance below the ceiling.

An outlet at the bottom can only be installed when using forced ventilation or large ventilation pipe. The cold air input can be organized in the space behind the stove, and the outlet in the floor itself, if the basement is connected by ventilation to street air or other rooms. For baths built into the house, it is always necessary to use means of forced ventilation.

How to insulate?

It is unreasonable to blame high-quality and intensive air exchange for the lack of heat in the bathhouse. Almost always, the real cause of the problem is weak and poor-quality insulation. In most cases, slabs are used mineral wool. Thanks to a large number They retain heat well from the air inside, and their high melting point means there is no fear of fire. Often frame wall It is insulated with reed slabs, which are environmentally safe and perform their task well.

The low cost of foamed synthetic materials and their lightness and resistance to moisture make such protective coatings some of the best. But it is important to understand that not all materials in this series are equally perfect. In addition, any such insulation can be used only where strong heating is excluded.

Thermal protection must be protected from contact with water and water vapor. Wet insulation quickly deteriorates and loses its positive qualities.

The classic approach to insulating stoves and their surroundings involves the use of various asbestos materials for protection. It can be used in the form of slabs or sheets. But given the danger of asbestos fibers to humans, it is advisable to use other finishing methods:

• basalt fiber;
• isolon;
• needle-punched mats.

Heat in a bathhouse can escape not only through the walls; Most of its leakage occurs through floors and ceilings. Expanded clay is sometimes used to create thermal protection inside them. It is used less and less in wall insulation because it is too heavy (500 kg per 1 m3) compared to publicly available analogues. In addition, expanded clay is significantly inferior in heat retention to both foam plastic and mineral wool, so the thickness of the insulating layer increases. And even though it slowly but steadily absorbs water, it turns out to be very difficult to dry the material.

The insulation of frame buildings with sawdust has a fairly long history. They are absolutely safe in environmental and sanitary terms, but installing such thermal protection will not work quickly. Wood shavings are used not only for insulation, but also as bedding for animals, fertilizer and in many other cases. Therefore, suppliers no longer give it away for free, but prefer to receive money for such a sought-after product. In a large city, sawdust is also sold in supermarkets, but the price level there is even higher than in sawmills.

Only shavings made from hard hardwood are suitable for the job. The maximum permissible humidity is 20%, and it is better if it is even lower. Clean sawdust has not been used on construction sites for a long time, because it settles and forms voids, and fungus can appear inside.

Raw materials must be processed boric acid or copper sulfate. The standard mixture also includes clay or cement (when finishing the ceiling), lime or gypsum.

The layer of sawdust under the floor should be at least 200 mm, and in the northern regions of the Russian Federation this figure can be increased by another 50%. Loose laying involves mixing wood processing waste with binding materials, then the composition is poured into wooden molds on which the floor is laid. The base is protected from dampness using kraft paper, polyethylene and similar materials. The composition is placed uniformly over the entire area; it has to be compacted only in rare cases. The final readiness of the insulation is achieved after two days.

Examples of finished buildings

Beautiful frame baths can be made in a variety of designs. This is what the structure looks like with a not too steep roof pushed forward above the facade. There is a kind of platform in front of the door that you need to climb up to. small stairs. The design concept is clearly built in the spirit of maximum naturalness of construction. Many corner baths built using frame technology are finished with siding.

If done correctly, it is extremely difficult to distinguish them from simple log buildings. A modern approach to baths often involves the use of a minimalist style. A striking example is presented in the photograph - there is only a canopy, a small ladder and clapboard-lined walls and a rectangular window. You can build such a structure with your own hands, and in as soon as possible. Using any of the presented types of washing machines is easy and convenient.

If you have your own plot, your own house or cottage, and at the same time you are an avid steam room lover, sooner or later you will start building your own bathhouse. If you already have experience in building frame houses, then building a bathhouse with your own hands will be easier for you. If you have no experience, you will need a lot of theoretical information, and practical advice from the masters will never be superfluous.

Where to begin

So, you firmly intend to build a bathhouse with your own hands. First answer the following questions:

1. Where on the site will your panel building be located. Consider everything: the presence and location of the necessary communications, is there enough space to build a frame structure, do you want the bathhouse to be close to the house or located far away? Or maybe you want there to be a free passage-corridor from the house to the steam room? In general, you should have a first idea of ​​what you want, as there are a lot of options.
2. Determine the quality of the soil, this will be useful to you when building the foundation. If you have already built something framed before, then you already know what kind of soil is on your site. Let me remind you that they can be sandy (with admixtures of rock and other rocks), fine sandy (loose and extremely unstable) and clayey (subject to swelling in the cold season). For the first type of soil, the simplest and lightest foundations are suitable, and for the second two, the foundation should be more reliable (although frame buildings rarely need heavy foundations).
3. Plan what rooms your building will consist of. Usually baths have a dressing room, a shower and a steam room. However, you may want to have a terrace, a swimming pool, a loft or a more extended sitting area.
4. Determine where the stove will be located, as this affects the location of the ventilation system, pipes, and chimney.
5. Think about what you want the roof of the bathhouse to look like. The more interesting the solution, the larger the roof, the more reliable the rafters and frame floors will need to be made.
6. Select a company or store where you will purchase building materials. Find out where there are discounts or free shipping - this can help you save a lot.

How to draw a plan for a future building?

Once you have decided on the basic issues, it is time to start construction. The first step is to draw it yourself or purchase a ready-made plan. You can purchase a ready-made bathhouse plan from developers involved in frame construction. They already have several ready-made, proven solutions that they will be happy to sell to you. An additional advantage may be assistance from company representatives with the purchase of building materials or good advice DIY assembly.

However, if you want to do everything yourself, pay attention to the following tips:

1. Determine how many people your bathhouse is designed for on average. If you often have guests, you can save on space by reducing the shower room and thereby increasing the dressing room or seating area. The shower room is traditionally the smallest room in a bathhouse.
2. Even if you plan to steam alone or with a small group, do not make the steam room very small. The steam will be of poorer quality, and besides, you may not have room for a three-level bench, which is needed to steam at different heights.
3. Consider creating a deck.
4. It wouldn't hurt to have a bathroom at all.
5. Place several outlets in the break room. Then you can use an electric kettle, listen to music and even connect a small refrigerator with cold drinks if necessary.
6. Think about the location of the windows. The relaxation room should be the brightest, and the steam room can do without natural light altogether. A do-it-yourself panel design allows you to make windows anywhere.
7. Doors should be positioned functionally. From the shower you need to be able to immediately go to both the steam room and the relaxation area. It is better to place the bathroom closer to the shower - this will make it easier to lay communications.

Taking into account all these factors, having decided on the budget, you can begin to select building materials.

Building materials: choose and buy

So, you start building the best frame vacation spot. You need to determine what building materials you will need and calculate how much to purchase. To do this, you need to decide on the main stages of your work:

1. Laying the foundation.
2. Installation of the frame.
3. Laying communications.
4. Insulation and insulation of walls (internal and external).
5. Construction of the roof and chimney.
6. Interior decoration, installation of a stove, swimming pool, etc.
7. External cladding.
8. Construction of a terrace.

We discussed laying the foundation in a separate article, you can read about it. I can only say that it is best to stop at strip foundation– it is suitable for most soils, has good load-bearing capacity and reliably protects the building from distortion. You can easily build it yourself. To create this type of foundation you will need formwork and self-tapping screws for its assembly, concrete, reinforcement, stones, possibly crushed stone or sand. The foundation does not need to be deepened very much - for light frame houses optimal height is 60 cm.

For further construction you need to purchase:

• boards or beams for constructing the frame
• materials for vapor barrier, waterproofing and windproofing
• materials for thermal insulation
• building materials for interior decoration
• materials for external cladding
• tools, screws, nails, etc.

Proper calculation of building materials helps save money cash and not buy too much, and at the same time saves your time. Knowing the technology of frame construction, it is easy to calculate the quantity necessary materials. To do this, you need to find the total area of ​​your building, from which we subtract the area of ​​​​all door and window openings. We separately calculate materials for the floor and ceiling.

Pay attention to the instructions for insulating and heat-protective materials - they usually indicate how much material is needed to insulate a square meter. If such instructions are not available, check with your sales consultant. Frame buildings need good insulation.

Construction of the frame

Read about how to make a foundation for a frame bath. When it is ready, we make the frame.

Despite the fact that the construction of a bathhouse is similar to any other frame construction, it also has its own characteristics. The room itself is often in contact with moisture, and temperature fluctuations lead to faster wear of materials. Therefore, when constructing a frame, all wooden parts must be treated with special antiseptics, and preferably in several layers.

After you are convinced that the boards and beams are well dried and reliably protected with impregnations, we proceed to the construction of the frame.

To make a frame with your own hands, first of all we tie the base. We mark the future walls and line the outer building with boards (section 50×100 mm). We fix it with nails or self-tapping screws. Using a support made of boards or timber, the base frame is connected (the upper part of the building is connected in the same way). The timber or boards are laid horizontally. Use a level to check for accuracy under a straight line.

If you notice a slight misalignment, correct it by placing small pieces of board under the lowered part. It is better to use several small boards, layered, rather than one wide board.

When laying the studs, note that you need to be comfortable with installing insulation and sheathing later. The distance between the axes should be no wider than half a meter, but if there is a doorway in the wall, make a gap of 0.4 meters.

The pitch size of the racks depends on the size of the openings into which the windows and doors will be installed. It is necessary to build an additional rack where the frame meets other walls.

Usually the bathhouse begins to assemble from one of the corners of the planned room. After erecting one wall, it must be checked for verticality with a tool. If everything is in order, it is fixed using struts (temporary).

The remaining walls of the frame are installed in the same way, and later the angles are checked - they must be strictly 90⁰. Additionally, we fix the structure with nails and boards.

Steam, wind and waterproofing

Insulation is best done using synthetic materials. This type of insulation is not so susceptible to changes in difficult operating conditions. These can be slabs of polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam. Slabs or a roll version of synthetic mineral wool or ecowool have proven themselves well. Installation of these types of insulation can be done with your own hands. The material is lightweight and does not require special skills or complex tools for installation. Read more about insulating a frame bath.

Panel technology involves the use of windproofing materials. Wind protection is provided by the external finishing of the building, consisting of special membranes or foam boards.

For frame construction, the following types of waterproofing are used: roll protective films and membranes.

An air gap is necessary for ventilation. The drainage system is represented by drainage systems.

Water laying

Communications in the bathhouse are the conduction of water and electricity. One of the main features of this non-residential premises is the need to drain water during frosts. If water remains in the pipes, it will turn into ice and burst the pipe.

To properly design a water supply system, determine where the water distribution points will be located. You will most likely need to run water to a shower or bathtub, sink, hot water boiler, or toilet. Water can come either from your home, in which case the pipes will be connected to your home, or from a separate well or well. In the second case, the water heating tank will be filled using a pump. The pump is selected based on the height of water rise, the diameter of the well and the required pressure in the system.

It is better to purchase pipes from polypropylene. To install them yourself, you need to try, but they will last longer than metal-plastic ones, in which rubber gaskets quickly fail.

Consider a filter system. You will need a coarse filter and a fine filter. The ball valve is located on the supply pipe. A filter and check valve are installed from it to the pumping station. After this, a connection is made to the pumping station, with a main line being drawn at the outlet. It leads directly to the water heating boiler, from which it will already supply hot water. The tee, which cuts in here, gives rise to a line through which cold water will flow.

The cold water supply taps of the planned water intake points of the frame building are connected to the tee. At the outlet of the water heating boiler you will have a hot water supply line. Hot water taps should be connected here.

Features of conducting electricity

Electricity can be supplied to the bathhouse in two ways:

1. By air.
2. Underground way.

The aerial method involves running the cable through the air, and the underground method involves hiding the cable in a trench in the ground. The first method is more economical, since it will require the installation of two supports (more supports will be needed if the wire stretches more than 25 meters). The second method will require additional costs for digging a trench.

For aerial installation, you should purchase a self-supporting insulated cable, and for underground installation, a much more expensive VBBShV cable. Unlike insulated, it is armored with copper conductors.

Any type of wire requires the installation of a metal sleeve, which will protect the cable from deformation when entering the building. Without an iron sleeve, the cable may be damaged due to shrinkage and movement of the wall.

You will find more information about electrical wiring.

Which roof to choose?

The roof can be simple or complex. Simple types include shed and gable roofs. More complex ones have decorative and functional protrusions. These projections are constructed if there is an attic or attic. The roof may have one or more windows if there is a room underneath it.

A pitched roof does not imply the presence of an attic or attic, however, its flatness can be used by equipping a place for sunbathing or for drying fruits, berries and mushrooms.

The most popular is the simplest gable roof - it hardly accumulates snow in winter, makes it possible to equip an attic, not too expensive financially and easy to install. Access to the attic can be made using a staircase from the recreation area. You can store brooms there or set up a billiard room.

Interior decoration

Most often, interior decoration is made of wood. You can use the following species: larch, linden, oak. Do not use pine or spruce, which release resin when heated. If you want to use conifers, place them in the dressing room or relaxation area, away from the steam room.

The floor is best made of tiles; this is the most functional material for rooms with high humidity. Naturally, you need to choose a special tile - it does not collapse under the influence of water and has a rough surface, which reduces the possibility of slipping on a wet floor.

In no case should you use the following for interior decoration:

• laminate (it does not tolerate moisture)
• linoleum (when heated it releases harmful substances)
• Fiberboard and chipboard (also emit harmful substances contained in the glue)

Exterior finishing

A beautiful bathhouse immediately reveals a good owner, so the owners always pay great attention to the appearance of this frame building. However, the external decoration of the bathhouse also has a protective function. It can be made with your own hands from:

Terrace construction

Having a terrace is a huge advantage for your bathhouse. It is installed quite simply, but as experience shows, it is used constantly. The terrace can be made of wood, but it is better to use special tiles.

To build a terrace, it is not necessary to make a foundation; it is enough to remove the fertile layer of soil and lay a layer of gravel for drainage, and a layer of sand on top. All this must be thoroughly compacted by sprinkling with water. The quality of compaction depends on the reliability of your terrace.

After laying the tiles, pay attention to the seams. It is best to seal them with special grouts that can withstand low temperatures. It is better to choose tiles from granite (the most common option), basalt or syenite. Such tiles are easy to clean, durable, and not subject to abrasion. Concrete tiles, clinker and some synthetic materials have proven themselves well. But it is better not to use ceramic tiles for terraces - they heat up too quickly and can cause burns.