Firewood splitter: making a wooden handle with your own hands. Choosing wood for an ax Choosing wood for an ax

IN different countries choose for an ax different material. Commonly used wood is maple, birch, beech, oak, and ash. For example, in southern Europe, the instrument is most often made from white acacia. In Russian realities and CIS countries, the most popular material is birch. Oak and maple are considered to be reliable wood. Different countries choose different materials for ax handles. Commonly used wood is maple, birch, beech, oak, and ash. For example, in southern Europe, the instrument is most often made from white acacia. In Russian realities and CIS countries, the most popular material is birch. Oak and maple are considered reliable wood.

Birch is easy to work with - basic processing and sanding. There is no strong recoil or fatigue felt. Wood can withstand heavy loads and impacts. A serious drawback is rotting due to the property of absorbing moisture, which leads to loss of strength. The birch dries out, but the shrinkage becomes too great. There is no way to somehow protect the birch from moisture.

You can go into the forest with a birch ax for a couple of days, then dry it. And everything seems to be fine, but after 1-2 months you will notice that the ax handle is very wobbly. A temporary solution to the problem is an additional wedge. You can also soak the ax in water. However, now you will have to constantly soak the ax in order to work with it. A birch ax cannot be called a reliable tool unless you are ready to make or buy a new one every month.
When hiking, most often a tool is needed for cutting across the grain. Due to this, the ax receives a strong load; if it is made of birch, it can become loose.

Maple ax handle

The maple ax handle is not prone to excessive loosening. Even if the instrument is exposed to variable humidity. The ax handle gets clean and flat surface, there are no problems with its processing. Maple does not rot as quickly as birch. In terms of strength, maple is better than oak and birch, but in terms of impact strength, birch is in first place.

Ash is considered by many to be an ideal option. This is confirmed by the production of hockey sticks, baseball bats, oars, skis and so on from ash. Strength, reliability, although the wood is stiffer than birch, but ash has more advantages.

Ax handle made of oak and beech

Among the advantages are the simplicity of processing, long service life, high strength, and the most elegant structure. But there are serious disadvantages - working with oak is inconvenient because it dries out your hand. If you make the ax handle long enough, there will be no strong recoil, but the physical load will increase. Beech is easy to work with - it has a pleasant surface. The downside is hygroscopicity. You can soak the material in oil, but the procedure will not give significant results.

Excellent impact resistance, proof of this is the production of sports equipment from of this type wood, furniture making. Viscosity, hardness, strength. In terms of strength, jatoba is better than oak. Externally, a tool made from jatoba will look solid (which should be taken into account if you are giving a gift).

Adviсe
To make the ax handle, you need chopped headers. You cannot use boards, since in this case the strength of the ax handle will be minimal. It is important to achieve high bending strength of the ax handle. If you choose birch, be sure to clear the bark from the logs and heat them on the block so that the inner layers dry as quickly as possible - otherwise the birch may rot.

You cannot use freshly felled wood for an ax handle for a number of reasons:
Minimum strength;

Too much shrinkage after drying;

The wood will crack and warp.

The structure of the ax has not changed for centuries: the head and handle. On some you can see a goatee.

It is mainly found on carpenter's axes and looks like a small protrusion near the blade, which enhances the strength of the cutting part to the ax handle and protects it from impacts on the material.

It is believed that such models came to us from Northern Europe, where they were used as military weapons.

The service life of the ax depends on the steel used to make the cutting part of the head. The best blades are made from high-carbon steel, which is impervious to temperature changes and external damage.

IN Soviet times Several types of steel were used, they were known under the following markings:

• U8GA.

The buyer can check the quality of the steel immediately before purchasing the tool in the store. To do this, you need to hit the blade on the ax handle with a dense object. The sound should be loud and long.

Such a tool will not require constant sharpening from the owner, and there will be no nicks or scratches from the wood on it.

On the farm you may need different types axes, but most often there is only one tool in the house, used as a universal one.

How to choose an ax

When choosing an axe, first of all you need to decide on the type of tool. This will determine a number of characteristics that you should pay attention to when purchasing.

The cutting part of the head can be of different widths:

• narrow;
• average;
• wide.

The weight of the tool is important. A heavy ax will cut logs well, but it is impossible to work with it for a long time. Low weight will require great human effort with little impact force.

The choice of ax depends only on the personal preferences of the buyer. Plastic handles are no less durable than traditional wooden handles. And the iron ax handle with a rubberized handle, despite its serious weight, is quite convenient to use.

When choosing a tool, special attention should be paid to the following points:

• Blade shape. It can be rounded or straight. The rounded shape allows you to focus on cutting qualities. The second option is more suitable for splitting wood.
• Sharpening the blade. A sharpening angle of less than 40 degrees allows the ax to penetrate deeper into the material. These tools are ideal for cutting down trees, but will become dull very quickly.

A sharpening angle of 40 degrees or more is ideal for chopping wood and chopping meat.

Many people prefer combined sharpening, when the edges are blunter compared to the center of the blade.

This significantly increases the strength of the tool, especially in cases where the impact force is transferred to the edge of the blade.

• Steel quality. First of all, it affects the durability of the tool. The branded head must have a stamp indicating the grade of tool steel. Preference should always be given to a forged product.
• Ax length. The short handle forces you to work with outstretched arms to increase swing strength. Recoil to the hand in this case will interfere with long and productive work.

The ideal ax handle should match the length of the arm from the shoulder joint to the wrist. This tool is very easy and comfortable to work with.

• Thickness of the axe. The ax handle should fit comfortably in your hand. If your fingers do not close around it, then you can definitely prepare for injuries during work.

• Place of purchase. Often, tools in large construction stores are more expensive than in the markets. Although this does not affect the quality in any way. The difference in prices for tools from the same manufacturer can be 15-20%.
• Tool price. If the owner of an ax plans to use it almost every day, then you should think about buying a good and expensive tool that will quickly pay for itself.

But if you intend to use it occasionally, then buy expensive model inappropriate.

• Active advertising from the seller. Each model has pros and cons that have to be taken into account when planning a purchase.

Typically very light weight and compact in size. The blade of such a hatchet may have semicircular edges to make it easier to carry in a backpack. Most often, manufacturers pay special attention to the design of such an instrument and always provide it with a case.

Main advantages:

• a light weight;
• tool kit protective cover;
• a sharp blade that allows you to use the tool as a knife;
• handle length no more than 50 cm.

Minuses:

• high price (usually significantly above average);
• rust on the blade (after long use the blade becomes covered with a layer of rust, especially after being in the case for a long time);
• not suitable for cutting firewood and logs.

Best models:

The light weight, just over a kilogram, will not burden the tourist, but plastic handle with a rubber pad will make the ax as safe as possible while cutting branches.

• STAYER Taiga. The lightest of the touring models. It has a rounded blade and weighs 800 grams. It has a wooden handle, which is not very convenient during long hiking trips.

This type is designed for chopping meat and bones. At home, it can be replaced with a regular multifunctional one, but professional butchers cannot do without such a tool.

It is ideal for chopping carcasses in cafes and restaurants. Only a man can cope with it.

A professional product for chopping meat has considerable weight, a wide blade and high steel density ( large manufacturers alloy steel is used). The ax handle is most often made of wood.

Main advantages:

• heavy weight makes it easy to cut the most stubborn material;
• the blade is sharpened under acute angle, which makes it easier to work with meat carcasses;
• high safety margin;
• durable.

Minuses:

• classic weight of more than 3 kilograms requires the use of great physical strength;
• A wooden ax handle dries out over time.

• “Meat Chopper.” Most popular among butchers. The tool has a forged blade made of high-strength steel, which eliminates the appearance of chips and scratches. The handle is coated with a layer of varnish that provides protection from premature drying.
• "Butcher". It can be considered one of the easiest. The average weight is just over 2 kilograms, the blade is semicircular and has an anti-corrosion coating.
• “Labor” VACHA S901. It has no competitors in the “most proven model” category. The manufacturer has been producing it virtually unchanged since 1950. The ax has a wooden handle and a forged blade with high quality become.

Mainly used for cutting logs, it has a hardened carbon steel blade. The handle of the tool is most often made of wood. The sharpening angle of the blade varies between 40-60 degrees.

Main advantages:

• ease of use:
• accessibility for the consumer;
• wide price range.

Minuses:

• very narrow specialization;
• On the market building materials there are a large number of Chinese fakes of low quality.

• TUTAHI. The blade is sharpened under certain type wood and can easily be damaged by improper use. It comes with a handmade leather case.
• KRAFTOOL Rhine. Its design can withstand increased daily loads. The blade is made of tool steel, and the handle is carved from hazel wood.
• KRAFTOOL is universal. It copes well with cutting wood and splitting firewood. Used as a professional tool for lumberjacks. The handle consists of two components, which prevents it from splitting during operation.

A double-sided ax has two blades of the same size and thickness. Due to this, a good balance of the instrument is achieved. The blades are made of high carbon steel and can have different sharpenings.

Main advantages:

• double blade allows you to perform multiple tasks with one tool;
• the ax handle can be easily replaced with a new one if necessary;
• used as a throwing tool.

Minuses:

• heavy weight;
• lack of shock function;
• traumatic;
• high price;
• uncomfortable handle.

The most commonly found models in stores are:

• SOG F12. The lightest of the double-sided category, weighs only 800 grams. The Chinese manufacturer equipped it with a polymer handle and a protective cover. The blade steel density is average.
• OCHSENKOPF. The sportiest of all two-sided instruments. The German manufacturer created this model according to sports standards. The weight of the product is about 2 kilograms making it an ideal throwing projectile.
• BLACK EAGLE ESTWING EDBA. This model can be read as the most military of all. It was created by American specialists taking into account the latest scientific developments for military specialists.

The tool has perfect balance, a high-carbon steel blade and a handle with a genuine leather overlay.

This species is used in forest plots for deforestation. It is difficult to use for other work due to its very impressive weight. The cutting part of the head is processed especially carefully using manual and mechanical forging.

Manufacturers always use the highest strength grade of steel. The handle is most often made from hickory, a type of hickory.

Main advantages:

• impressive weight increases impact force;
• powerful and comfortable handle;
• The blade is rounded, which reduces the risk of injury.

Minuses:

• heavy weight;
• narrow focus;
• makes it difficult to move through the forest.

• HULKAFORS. Suitable for cutting trunks of any diameter. The blade is made of high-carbon steel by hand forging with mechanical processing at the final stage of production. The handle is made of hickory and highly polished.
• SCANDINAVIAN FOREST AX. The Swedes proudly consider it the largest of the logging axes. It belongs to the category of professional tools.

The manufacturer used high-strength steel for the blade and hazel wood for the handle.

• WETTERLINGS AMERICAN FOREST AX. The American manufacturer made this tool for the work of professional lumberjacks, providing it with a particularly long handle.

Swedish steel with a large margin of safety was used to make the blade. A leather case is included.

The ideal carpentry tool has a medium-thick blade and an ergonomic wooden handle. Professional carpenters sharpen a straight blade based on their personal preference.

Main advantages:

• well balanced;
• has a sharp blade;
• The blade is fixed to the ax handle in several ways, which prevents unexpected injuries.

Minuses:

• not suitable for chopping wood;
• After purchase, you have to sharpen it “for yourself.”

Best models:

• Gardena 1000A 08714-48.000.00. This is the most powerful model. It features a special blade coating that reduces friction with wood and makes work easier. The tool handle is reinforced with fiberglass and perfectly balanced.
• Izhevsk carpenter's axe. This tool can rightfully be called the highest quality among all. For the semicircular blade, a special steel with a high degree of hardening was used. The handle is made of birch and carefully polished.
• Small Norwegian axe. The Norwegian model is the most unusual. It is only suitable for construction wooden houses using Canadian technology. Its weight is just over two kilograms, and the durable blade has rounded edges.
• Wetterlings Hjartum Carpenter's Axe. This is the most legendary and famous carpentry model. Its history goes back more than 100 years. The tool has an alloy steel blade with a cutout at the base, allowing you to comfortably hold it while working.

Such instruments are made entirely by hand by the master. Each model is distinguished by high quality steel and its own character. The design of such products allows the butt to be used as a hammer.

Main advantages:

• piece copy;
• high quality;
• long operation.

Minuses:

• high price.

Best models:

• Forged ax on an ash ax handle. Designed for cutting and splitting wood. Can claim to be the most convenient forged tool.

The blade steel is similar in composition to the Soviet grade U7. The fit on the ax handle is very strong and completely prevents slipping.

• "Taiga". This model can easily be classified as “irreplaceable”. IN hiking conditions she is capable of chopping wood, felling wood and butchering carcasses.
• Workshop “Phoenix”, ax “Journeyman”. Such products serve for many years without the slightest complaints. They can safely be called the most reliable.

The total weight of the tool is just over a kilogram, and the blade is made of hardened steel in accordance with GOST standards. The craftsmen chose ash wood for the handle.

Such a tool is often called a cleaver. It is equipped with a long and lightweight ax made of impact-resistant plastic. The sharpening angle of the blade made of hardened high-strength steel varies between 40-60 degrees.

Main advantages:

• light weight;
• reasonable price;
• wide choose;
• good balance increasing striking force.

Minuses:

• the quality of the model is difficult to determine visually;
• narrow specialization - such a tool will not be able to do other work.

Best models:

• VIPUKIRVES. It revolutionized the world of wood splitting tools by being the first modified axe.

The center of gravity of the tool is slightly shifted: when it hits a log, it turns slightly, thereby easily splitting even the most stubborn wood.

• WILTON BASH. This is the newest model of this type. It has significant weight and is suitable for short-term work.
• Council Tool Hudson Bay Axe. Most best ax for chopping wood. It has a long handle and a sharp blade. The steel used in production and the special sharpening allows it to easily cut through centuries-old trees.

Axes most often have a short handle and light weight. Like tourist ones, they are sold together with a protective case. The handle is most often made of durable polyurethane and rubberized. The blade of such a tool is wide and sharply sharpened.

Main advantages:

• a light weight;
• ease of use;
• wide range of applications.

Minuses:

• large selection of models;
• The quality of the steel requires frequent sharpening

Best models:

• STANLEY 1-59-068. This tool does a good job of chopping wood and chopping small sticks. The wooden handle is not very comfortable in rainy weather.
• TRUPER 14951. This model will help you chop branches on the go and deal with small trees. The handle is made of non-slip plastic and equipped with pads.
• SOLARIS S7101. This is the most reliable purchase for a tourist. The model consists entirely of Russian grade carbon steel. An anti-reflective coating is applied to the entire surface of the instrument.

In the area of ​​the handle there is a cover made of bakelite plywood. As an accessory, there is a leather case with a hanging loop.

This type is suitable for chopping firewood and will help cut a beam or log. It is used by carpenters and builders. Its main characteristics include a wooden handle and a blade made of high-quality steel.

Main advantages:

• low price;
• availability;
• multifunctionality.

Minuses:

• the wooden handle dries out after 5-6 years of use;
• The fit on the ax handle is not strong.

Best models:

• “SUMMER RESIDENT” standard SZAN330. This model can be considered the most expensive. The tool has a curved wooden handle and a specially shaped straight blade. Ideal for garden work.
• VOREL 33107. This is the most typical representative of its type: the wooden handle weighing about one kilogram is well balanced, the polished wide blade is made of high-quality steel. The blade is sharpened at an angle of 60%.
• T-03-1. This is the most traditional model, which has remained in the households of many people since Soviet times. The blade steel and forging method fully comply with the GOST standards used in this area. The handle is made of dried birch wood.

Such a tool is an integral part of the fire stand at the enterprise. The configuration of these shields is regulated by state rules:

• application to the ax handle paint coating Red;
• Only wood is suitable for making the handle;
• The weight of the instrument should not exceed two kilograms.

Main advantages:

• the sharp blade is heat-treated;
• especially strong fit of the ax head on the handle;
• undergoes strength testing according to GOST;
• The product is accompanied by a quality certificate.

Minuses:

• narrow specialization - opening doors, window openings etc.;
• The paint coating makes the handle very slippery.

Best models:

• ESTWING FIRESIDE FRIEND EFF4SE. Limited edition fire axe. special edition. The blade has an anti-reflective coating, and the handle is made of genuine leather.
• ESTWING FIRESIDE FRIEND E3-FF4. The most durable ax for a fire shield. The tool is made entirely of steel and is well balanced. The handle has a high quality vinyl overlay.
• RUSARSENAL ax for fire shield. This instrument falls into the “most classic” category. It complies with GOST standards and has all the required certificates. The handle is painted red.

An ax is a tool necessary for any country farm. It will come in handy when chopping wood, when building a house, and when cutting game. Unfortunately, not all axes available for sale are reliable and convenient. The operation of some of them is even dangerous! Therefore, if you have a need for “clumsy” work, you can try to make quality tool with your own hands. We will now tell you how to make an axe.

Components of the ax: metal blade, ax handle and wedge

An ax handle is the handle of a tool; the convenience of the work performed depends on its length and shape. A straight stick with a round cross-section is not the best option. The hand, holding such a tool, experiences increased tension and quickly gets tired. Much more practical is a curved ax handle with an oval-shaped section with straight sections. It is advisable to widen the tail part and bend it down. Then, during strong blows, the ax will be securely held in the hands.

Ax diagram: 1 - butt, 2.9 - wedges, 3 - blade, 4 - toe, 5 - chamfer, 6 - heel, 7 - beard, 8 - axe, 10 - sharpening

The process of making an ax looks like this:

1. Preparation of material

Strong ax handles are made from oak, birch, maple, and ash.

Wood for ax handles is traditionally harvested in the fall, before frost. Barked logs are placed in the attic, in a dry and dark place to dry. The blanks must be stored for at least a year. Some experts recommend even longer drying - 5-7 years.

However, if your ax handle is broken, but you urgently need to split logs, you can also use fresh wood. This is a temporary option, since after drying the wood will in any case decrease in volume and the handle will begin to “dangle” in the eye.

2. Cutting out the template

A cardboard template is necessary for transferring the contours of the designed ax onto the surface of the wood and making a tool with the required dimensions. As a sample, you can use a ready-made ax that is convenient for you to work with. The handle of the “standard” is traced with a pencil on a sheet of cardboard, cut out and a template is obtained.

3. Production of a blank bar

From the dried lump, strictly along the fibers, a block is hewn out - a blank for an ax handle. The length of the bar should be approximately 100 mm longer than the intended size finished product. The width of the workpiece in the front part (which is mounted on the ax blade) should exceed the width of the metal eye by 2-3 mm.

A template is applied to the block on both sides, its contours are transferred to the wood. In this case, the template is positioned so that there is an allowance of 10 mm from the front part of the block, and 90 mm at the end (in the tail part). The allowance in the shank serves to prevent the handle from splitting when inserting a metal blade. He cuts off after final assembly.

4. Hewing out the ax handle

In order to finally bring the ax handle to the required size, transverse cuts are made at the top and bottom of the block. Their depth should not reach the intended contours of the ax by 2 mm. Excess wood along the cuts is chipped with a chisel. Finally, down to the contour lines, the material is cut with a rasp. Use a file (or rasp) to round bends, corners, and transitions. Final sanding carry out sandpaper.

5. Impregnation with waterproof compound

The best means for impregnation of wood - drying oil and linseed oil. The ax handle is coated with any of these oils. After it dries, apply the next layer. This is done several times until the oil stops being absorbed.

The ax handle should not be slippery, so it is not recommended to cover it with varnishes and oil paints. You can mix a small amount of dye, such as orange, red or yellow, into the drying oil. An ax with a bright handle will be clearly visible in the grass and will not get lost.

For information on how to make a high-quality ax handle for an ax in camping conditions, but in compliance with all the rules, see below:

Selecting a metal blade and ax attachment

It is almost impossible to make a metal sheet with an eye at home, so you will have to buy it ready-made. When purchasing, pay attention to:

• steel quality - ideally, the product is marked with the GOST symbol, and not TU or OST;
• blade - must be smooth, without dents, cracks, or bends;
• the shape of the eyelet is in the form of a cone;
• the ends of the butt should be perpendicular to the blade.

At the end of the ax handle, two axial lines are drawn - longitudinal and perpendicular to it. A groove is cut along the contour of the longitudinal line to the depth of the eye - this cut will be necessary for wedging the ax handle. Then a butt is attached to the end and the contours of the eye are outlined, focusing on the axial lines. Using a knife, ax or plane, cut off the seating part of the ax handle, giving it the shape of an eye. Moreover, this is done so that the ax handle protrudes beyond the eye by about 1 cm.

Using hammer blows, the ax is placed on the ax handle. Do this carefully so that the wood does not crack. After the end goes beyond the boundaries of the butt, check the firm fit of the blade - it should fit tightly and not slip.

Attaching an ax to an ax handle: a - fitting, b - attachment, c - wedging; 1 - axe, 2 - ax handle, 3 - wedge

Wedging the ax guarantees a firm fit

Wedging serves to enhance the reliability of fastening the metal part of the ax to the ax handle. The safety of working with this tool depends on this. Wedging is carried out by driving a wedge made of hard wood (oak, walnut, yew, etc.) into the end part of the ax handle. Accordingly, the volume of the landing part of the ax increases and “tightly” fits into the eye.

To make a wedge, use a well-dried wooden plank about 5-10 mm thick. The working part of the wedge is made equal to the depth of the cut. Using a rasp, the wedge is hewn so that its sides are parallel to each other. Only the very end is turned with a double-sided chamfer. The thickness of the wedge near the chamfer should exceed the width of the cut by 1 mm, at the end of the working part - by 2 mm.

Diagram of a wedge used to wedge an ax handle

To drive a wedge, the ax is placed vertically on a hard surface (table, anvil, etc.). Use a chisel to widen the cut groove, install a wedge and hammer it in with a hammer. Before driving, you can lubricate the wedge with glue (without a rubber component) to prevent it from being pushed out of the cut and for a more secure fit.

Kerf groove extensions to facilitate wedge driving

Wedging an ax with one wedge is a popular and reliable option

Wedging with one wedge is not the only way possible variant. Some craftsmen prefer to use a larger number of wedges, for example two or five. In the latter case, the first wedge is driven into a longitudinal groove at the end of the ax (as when wedging with one wedge), and then the remaining four are driven perpendicular to the first. How to place an ax on an ax handle and then wedge it is shown in detail in the video:

The correct technology for sharpening an ax blade

The blade of a hand-made ax will perform its function only if the sharpening angle and chamfer width are maintained correctly.

The sharpening angle affects the convenience of the ax and the degree of its functionality. If you plan to cut wet, freshly cut wood, then the sharpening angle should be approximately 20°. If there are dry trees, then 25-30°.

The width of the chamfer is also very important, but in ready-made purchased blades, change it to the usual home handyman not possible. However, there is a way out: sharpen the ax blade with a double “trigger.” The first angle is turned at 15°, the second at 25° (average value).

Sharpening an ax: a - sharpening angle, b - chamfer width (should exceed the thickness of the blade by 2.5-3 times)

The ax is sharpened using an electric sharpener. At the same time, make sure that the blade does not overheat too much - this leads to a deterioration in hardness near the cutting edge. Therefore, when starting the sharpening process, you should place a container of water next to the sharpener to cool the metal. It is advisable to immerse the blade in water after each pass along the circle.

It is necessary to reduce runout to a minimum grinding wheel, regularly editing using special cutters. When sharpening, hold the ax so that the blade is directed towards the rotation of the electric sharpener. The butt is held at 45°. The blade is sharpened by smoothly moving the ax along the circle. The sharpening angle is carefully sharpened and the chamfer is polished.

Sharpening an ax on an electric sharpener allows you to quickly get a sharp blade

The final sharpening of the ax (grinding) is performed using a sharpening stone regularly moistened with water. Instead of a block, you can use a piece of plywood covered with sandpaper. Remember that working with a sharp ax is a pleasure, while a dull tool will force you to exert more effort, leading to rapid fatigue.

It is not easy to choose a new wooden ax for a cleaver, the configuration of which is largely determined by individual preferences.

A truly comfortable handle would be a custom-made handle, made using accessible technology that does not require special skills.

Wood processing can be easily done using carpentry workbench or on a replacement desktop. List of the the necessary tool as follows:

• Wood hacksaw;
• Carpenter's axe;
• Plane;
• Hammer;
• Chisel;
• Roulette;
• Sandpaper.

Using power tools ( grinding machine, circular saw or electric planer), will greatly facilitate the process of making a handle for a cleaver, but you can do without them.

Wood for an ax

The type of wood and the drying of the workpiece determine the durability of the ax for the cleaver. Freshly cut lumps are not suitable for handles: when the wood dries out, it becomes much thinner, cracks and warps. At home, a natural drying method is used, which allows you to prepare the workpiece in a dry shed for two years and in one year if you keep the wood in a heated room. The harvested wood is sawed off 15–20 cm longer than the future ax for the cleaver, in order to subsequently remove the ends covered with cracks.

Among the available tree species best properties Ash has a handle that is strong, elastic and does not dry out much over time. It is easier to find a suitable birch log, but it takes longer to dry, and it rots faster. A maple ax handle is less loose, and is slightly inferior to a birch one in terms of impact strength, but is more durable and easy to work with.

Shape and dimensions of the ax

A firewood cleaver should have a slightly curved handle 50–70 cm long for medium logs and 80–100 cm for large stumps. The ax handle is made of an oval cross-section, consisting of two semicircles connected by straight sections. This handle provides a confident grip and tactile control over the trajectory of the cleaving axe. Only the seating part of the ax for the cleaver is ovoid in shape, corresponding to the hole in the metal tip. A bend is made in the tail part of the handle in order to better hold the cleaver, which tends to slip out of the hand during strong blows. In addition, the downward-pointing end causes less twisting of the hand at the final moment of the blow.

Making your own handle

First, a block of dried lump is made from a thickness of 3–5 mm greater than the width of the mounting hole. The reserve will allow you to later adjust the workpiece in case of mistaken removal of excess wood somewhere. If it is necessary to remove a thick layer, use an ax or circular saw, then the surfaces are planed with a plane, simultaneously leveling the planes.

On the resulting workpiece, mark the outline of the ax handle with the same margin of a few millimeters.

For convenience, the piece of wood is clamped and transverse cuts are made with a hacksaw in increments of 35–40 mm, not reaching the marking line by 2–4 mm.

Next, use an ax or chisel to knock down pieces of wood in small pieces, following the direction of the chip and not allowing it to go deeper than the drawn contour.

The shank is filed perpendicular to the axis of the ax to reduce the likelihood of chipping wooden product.

Having completed the rough processing, mark the dimensions of the mounting hole.

Why find the center at the end of the workpiece and align the tip along it.

The final shapes are given to the workpiece by planing the convex surfaces with a plane, and the sunken parts are selected with a sharp knife.

Working carefully, remove thin shavings and periodically turn the part over to change the direction of the cut. As a result, you get an almost finished ax handle.

Now the upper end of the handle is chamfered for approach.

They try to lightly insert the handle into the eye, after which marks will remain on the wood, showing how much material needs to be removed.

Focusing on these marks, they continue to adjust the axe. Then another test attachment is made to identify areas of chipping.

Subsequent fine-tuning of the handle is carried out with sandpaper, smoothing out all irregularities and bringing the surfaces to a smooth state.

The tip is finally placed on the finished ax handle, ensuring an even fit. The protruding end of the piece of wood is cut off with a saw.

Place the cleaver vertically and hammer in a wedge, the length of which should not exceed the size of the butt to avoid cracking. If the wedge is not completely buried in the wood, the excess is cut off with a hacksaw.

The handle of a firewood cleaver is impregnated with a protective and decorative compound, leaving the surface rough. Do not use varnishes or oil paints, forming a glossy coating.

The result of an activity - economic or industrial - depends not only on the perfection and quality of the tool used, but not least on how convenient it is for a particular person. As for the handle of a purchased ax, it is often this that becomes the source of a number of problems - intense dulling of the cutting edge, the piercing part regularly flying off, rapid fatigue, and so on.

Wood selection

It is clear that not every breed is suitable for making an ax handle. It is advisable to focus on ash, oak, maple, hornbeam, acacia, rowan (necessarily old), beech and even apple trees. But the best option after all, birch is considered, namely, the root part of the tree or growths on its trunk. This wood is characterized by maximum density. Consequently, the durability of the ax is guaranteed.

It is better to harvest lumber in late autumn. At this time, the movement of juices practically stops, which means that the wood is relatively “dehydrated.”

Sample exposure

Even experienced master You may not be able to make a quality ax the first time. Therefore, it is necessary to stock up on several blanks for the ax handle. Opinions vary on the length of their storage before processing, but everyone agrees on one thing - drying should be done for at least 3 - 4 years. Moreover, it cannot be accelerated artificially. The process should proceed naturally, and it is advisable to choose a dark and dry place for storing raw materials.

It makes no sense to use “fresh” wood on the ax handle. As a result of the material shrinking, it will become deformed, which means that the handle will have to be constantly wedged, otherwise the metal will fly off. Undried wood is used only as a last resort, as an exception to the rule, when there is an urgent need to make an ax handle, at least for a while.

Preparing the template

A good ax handle must have a strictly defined shape. Trying to withstand it “by eye” is a futile task. The same applies to linear dimensions - they should be as close as possible to the recommended values.

Axes have different purposes. As a rule, a good owner has at least two of them. Cleaver and carpenter are a must. The dimensions and shape of the ax for each are clearly visible in the figure.

What to consider:

• The “tail” is made somewhat larger in cross-section than the gripping part. This ensures that during the work the ax handle will not break out of the master’s hands.
• Since we all have different heights and arm lengths, the linear parameters of the ax are not standard. They vary within certain limits. First of all, this refers to its length (in cm). For a cleaver - from 750 to 950, for a carpenter's tool - about 500 (±50). But it is necessary to leave a so-called allowance, first of all, on the side of the butt fastening (8 - 10 cm is enough). Once it is firmly seated on the ax handle, without splitting the wood, it is easy to cut off the excess.

If you have an ax on the farm, which is convenient in all respects, then it is enough to transfer the contours of its handle onto a sheet of cardboard and cut out a template using them.

Making an ax

Having a sample, this is easy to do. The main stages of work are as follows:

• workpiece marking;
• sampling of excess wood (electric jigsaw, carpenter's knife, etc.);
• finishing, grinding the ax handle.

• You should not rush to fine-tune the fastening part “to size”. During the process of processing the ax, you need to constantly monitor how tightly it fits to the eye of the butt. Even a small “shaft” is undesirable, since such a handle will have to be wedged out immediately. Taking into account the specific use of the tool, it will not last long. Therefore, grinding the ax should alternate with its regular fitting in place and adjustment within the required limits, with a small margin (about 2 mm). The work is painstaking, requiring time and accuracy, but the result is worth it.
• When processing a workpiece for an ax handle, it is not advisable to use files. Such a tool loosens the wood, so it is unlikely that you will be able to accurately maintain the dimensions - you will have to constantly remove burrs, which means choosing wood. For finishing, it is more correct to use a sharp knife, glass fragments, sandpaper with different sizes grains The recommended direction for stripping and sanding is along the grain.
• It is also necessary to choose the correct angle of the butt attachment. For a universal tool used for economic purposes, 75º is sufficient, a cleaver – about 85±50. This is also taken into account when finalizing the securing part of the axe.

Protecting the wood of the ax

Any tree is susceptible to rot to some extent. For the ax handle, linseed and drying oil. Varnishes and paints cannot be used to protect the material from moisture. Otherwise, it is not a fact that the handle will not systematically slip out of your hands. The consequences are known.

The composition is applied to the ax handle in several stages, and each layer must dry thoroughly.

Experienced craftsmen mix dyes into drying oil or oil. bright color. It is very useful if you have to work with an ax in dense bushes or in areas with tall grass. A tool with a handle that is clearly visible will definitely not get lost.

Ready-made ax handles are available for sale. If you decide to purchase a handle rather than waste time preparing wood and self-production, then it is advisable to have its approximate dimensions with you (indicated in the figure above). And choose a workpiece based on them. At home, all that remains is to slightly adjust the ax handle “to suit you.”