DIY wall lamp made from twine. DIY twine chandelier

If you are a lover of everything unusual and stylish, if you like to bring fresh ideas to life, then we suggest you make a chandelier from threads with your own hands. This master class will give impetus to your imagination and teach you a new technique that will help you create unusual lamp. A few hours of work and your room will literally and figuratively shine with bright light, making you look up and see the reflection of the magical world in a beautiful hand-made lampshade made of threads.

Advantages of using a thread lampshade

The interweaving threads of the lampshade will create fancy shadows on the walls, drawing intricate laces that will tremble and sway from the slightest draft in the room. Warm, calm light will sprinkle small rays and draw smiles on the wallpaper and ceiling. Lightness and weightlessness, the measured swaying of the lamp will give peace and quiet joy, which is akin to light meditation on the shore of a warm, gentle sea.

Look in your yarn bins and find threads that match the color and texture to match your color scheme premises. Then your creation will live in a single ensemble with a common atmosphere, and complement and decorate the interior of the room.

Thread to thread, circle by circle... And before your eyes a unique pattern of colored yarn will be born. And you won’t be able to create a second work like this; each thread lampshade will be special and unique. Turn on the music, free your mind from unpleasant thoughts and immerse yourself in the meditative process...

Tools and materials for work

In every home you can find almost all the elements to create such a lampshade:

1. For the basic shape of the chandelier, you can choose an inflatable balloon, a small ball or the frame of an old chandelier or sconce, you can also use an embroidery hoop.
2. Cotton, linen, wool or mixed threads. White balls made of cotton threads look ideal, this is a win-win option. Choose yarn that matches the main colors of the walls and wallpaper, maybe 2-3 shades darker or lighter. And if you or your children love holidays, then choose bright ones rich tones in contrast to the main color.
3. Glue (PVA, transparent stationery) and varnish for covering a ball of thread.
4. The electrical part requires a cartridge and stranded wire 15-20 cm long
5. If you want to make a wall sconce, then to work you will need a stand for the sphere, a wire with a plug and a light switch. Consider the lampshade option before starting work.
6. If you choose to make a pendant from several small balls, then purchase or take out a garland with light bulbs from the New Year's box.

DIY thread chandelier

Master Class:

1. We inflate the balloon to the size we need and tie it well with thread. If it deflates, the shape of the lampshade will be sloppy and loose.
2. Apply Vaseline or baby cream to the ball. This is done so that the adhesive threads come away from the ball well at the end of the work.
3. On the top of the ball (where the tie is), carefully draw a circle with a felt-tip pen with a diameter of 5-7 cm, depending on the size of the lampshade. You can put the glass down and circle it.
4. We need to soak the entire thread with glue. To do this, take a plastic cup and make two holes near the base, corresponding to the thickness of the yarn. Pull the end of the thread through the holes.
5. Pour glue into a glass. We attach a bobbin of wool or a spool of thread to a pin so that the ball does not roll away during work. Carefully pull the yarn through the cup of glue.
6. The creative part begins. We wind the thread evenly around the ball, trying not to make large gaps (unless this is part of your idea). Leave the chuck surface open. Let the ball dry for several hours. You can hang the lampshade by a thread, or put it in a pan so that the shape does not wrinkle.
7. After the ball is dry, pierce it with a needle, or release the air from it and remove it from the inner sphere.

If desired, you can coat the lampshade with furniture varnish, this will give it rigidity and shine.

DIY lampshade for a chandelier made of threads

You can make a hemisphere in the same way. To do this, you need to draw a border line with a felt-tip pen and wind the thread up to it. At the end of the work, thoroughly saturate the edge of the lampshade with varnish so that the threads do not become frayed.

Working on the lampshade is viscous and sticky, so stock up on rubber gloves to protect your hands.

Assembling the electrical part:

if you have old lamp, then the task is simplified: take all the components and parts from it. But if it is not there, our instructions will help.

Let's prepare a set of materials:

• socket for an electric lamp;
• cartridge holder;
• the wire.

You can assemble such a structure yourself.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Centered plastic cover cut a hole to the size of the cartridge. It is advisable to take a cartridge with external thread and clamping rings. Secure the rings at the top and bottom of the lid.
2. We attach the cover with the cartridge to the lampshade.
3. We connect the wire from the cartridge contacts to the ceiling terminal.

If you want to make a sconce, table lamp or night light, then we connect the wire through the switch to the plug for electrical outlet.

Lampshade made of threads on an old chandelier frame

Suitable for work old lampshade. We need to remove the old one decorative material, correct the shape of the frame if it is deformed, and wind threads of the desired color, thickness and quality.

To make your work look neat, wind the threads evenly covering the area. You can place the yarn randomly, or you can lay the turns diagonally or perpendicular to each other. Thanks to this, beautiful intricate patterns will be created, and they, in turn, will cast fancy shadows on the walls and ceiling.

You don’t have to use glue in this option, but after finishing the work you will need to apply varnish to all layers of thread. Next, dry the frame well for 8 hours.

Be careful when choosing lamps for lampshades made of threads, since glue, varnish, and threads are flammable materials. They should be kept away from sources of high temperatures and open flames. So avoid incandescent lamps old model, opt for a fluorescent or LED lamp. They heat up slightly and consume less electricity, and their lighting intensity is higher.

IN trading network available big choice LED lamps, both in size and current consumption. A 9 W lamp produces the same light intensity as a 60 W incandescent lamp. They cost more, but with long-term use the savings on energy consumption are obvious. And the most important advantage is that the risk of fire is reduced.

Very often our taste preferences do not find options when choosing chandeliers, lamps or sconces in stores. In this case, you can create an interesting interior object with my own hands using the suggested ideas and tips.

Video

Check out the video tutorial on how to create a lampshade.

So, having figured out how a chandelier should be arranged correctly, we take on its main lighting and at the same time decorative elements: lampshade and shade. Reflectors are technologically simpler; their manufacture and fastening to the supporting structure of the chandelier does not cause any difficulties.

The Internet is full of pictures with really very beautiful homemade lamps. However, looking at them, ask yourself: how do you replace a light bulb? The answer is not always found in the primary sources. Methods for fastening lighting elements in lamps, allowing lamp replacement without the use of tools, will be discussed in the next article, but the technological methods described later in this are designed for the fact that the lampshade in this case either moves up, or is removed down, or you can simply climb into it hand.

Materials

In order of increasing complexity (and durability), lampshades and lampshades can be made with your own hands at home from paper, plastics, threads, and ready-made tubes various kinds, twine or yarn, framed with a fabric cover and stained glass. The last 2 are quite complex, but with a skillful approach to work, the lighting and decorative qualities can surpass expensive store-bought ones.

Making a paper lampshade is the easiest way: from materials other than paper, you will need threads and PVA glue, and from tools - a sewing needle, scissors and, possibly, a sharp mounting knife. However, paper lampshades are fragile and therefore suitable mainly for chandeliers. But a damaged paper lampshade can be easily replaced with a new one.

You can make a paper lamp a little stronger different ways. The simplest way is to make a lampshade-ball from paper strips, gluing them at the poles and among themselves, pos. 1 in Fig. However, the design in this case is uniform: sufficient strength of the product is ensured only and only by its spherical shape.

Paper lampshade elements

Another way is to strengthen the paper itself. He'll ask for a little additional material: copper enameled winding wire with a diameter of 0.25-0.4 mm or threads. In the first case, the lampshade will fit without additional reinforcement for a floor lamp, and in the second for overhead decorative elements you will need a solid supporting base, e.g. from a plastic bottle. The lampshade paper is strengthened with wire as follows:

• On a sheet with a density of 90-140 g/m2. see the contours of the parts are drawn.
• Using a finely sharpened pencil or a mechanical one with a 0.6 mm rod, draw the lines of the rigidity grid. If the lampshade is glued together from several whole or slightly cut sheets, the grid lines should form a seamless pattern.
• Apply a thin layer of PVA glue with a brush.
• When the glue dries to the touch, apply veins - stiffeners - made of wire along the mesh.
• Lubricate the same PVA sheet with a density of 35-60 g/sq. cm, place it on the first one and gently smooth it with your fingers.
• A day later, the parts are cut out with scissors, glued together and painted. In this way you can even imitate the wings of rare species of butterflies, poses. 2; V in this case- Swallowtail Maak.

When using threads, both sheets are taken with a density of up to 60 g/m2. cm. Then, as said, you will need a supporting base, but you can even imitate the texture of rose petals, pos. 3.

Note: a paper lampshade, durable “almost like a real one,” can be made from papier-mâché. The technology, which is quite labor-intensive, is described below, see about lampshades for the kitchen.

Plastics

It’s easy to make a lampshade for a chandelier from disposable plastic cups, fastened with a stapler, see fig. Its lighting qualities are very good, but its appearance is frankly utilitarian. Therefore, it makes sense to use such lampshades in rooms with fairly high requirements for the quality of lighting, but not in front rooms. The directional pattern (DP) of a lampshade made from cups is formed by a cardioid pattern.

Lampshade made from plastic glasses

Lampshade made from plastic spoons

A fan pattern with a wide opening, very soft light in the central spot and uniform illumination in the side zone allows you to achieve a lamp with a lampshade-cone (or pineapple?) from bitten plastic spoons on a base in the form of a PET bottle with a cut off bottom, see fig. Effective light softening is achieved by the spoons acting as translucent bowl-shaped reflectors. They are glued to the bottle and glued together with silicone glue, a mounting gun or a glue gun. Cyanoacrylate glue is also suitable, but it must be thick. Cheap “superglue” is very fluid, drips will spread everywhere and spoil the glossy surfaces of spoons.

You can also make good lampshades from bottles alone. For example, a sphere from their bottoms, fastened with a stapler, like stopper cups (see the figure for a mini-master class), will give a cardioid pattern; however, compared to the “established” one, it is noticeably distorted. But at the dacha or in utility rooms, a chandelier made from bottoms is quite useful.

Lampshade made from bottle bottoms

Lampshade hedgehog from plastic bottles

Romantic soft light, somewhat spotty, but within acceptable limits, will be provided by a globe lamp made of bottle “hedgehogs”; however, they look more like blooming sea anemones - sea anemones, see photo on the right. It’s not difficult to make the “hedgehogs” themselves: the bottoms of the bottles are cut off, the side walls are cut to the scar before narrowing into the neck, the strips are wrapped around the neck, glued with drops of glue and secured with thread or tape for reliability. However, to assemble the “hedgehogs” into a lampshade, you will need a transparent spherical base. It is made in the same way as a lampshade made from threads (see below), only the threads are white nylon or propylene no thicker than 20 gauge, and instead of PVA, colorless water-based acrylic varnish is used.

A lampshade made from leaves cut from bottles allows you to achieve very uniform illumination and is very decorative, see fig. It is assembled on a temporary spherical mandrel, see below.

Lampshade made from homemade plastic leaves

The step-by-step master class in this case is also simple, but requires patience, accuracy, some additional tools and, possibly, material:

• We are preparing a soldering iron with a nickel-plated bronze tip (for dry soldering) at 40 W or with a regular copper tip at 25 W;
• If the tip is copper, you will also need Teflon (fluoroplastic) tape 0.06 mm wide, 60-80 mm wide;
• Cut out leaves from the bottle. From a lighting engineering point of view, pale green or light brown are better suited;
• Using a soldering iron tip (copper - through the film) slightly melt the edges of the leaves, otherwise they will look unnatural;
• Using the tip of the sting (copper also through the film) we “draw” the veins;
• Using the flat of the sting between the veins, with light touches, we slightly melt the surface so that it is, like real leaves, not completely smooth;
• Again, using the tip of the sting, going deeper, but without piercing, we bring out the central vein. It is convenient to do this on a soft, heat-resistant backing (calico or felt in several layers will do);
• We place a thread in the central vein and fuse it by “screwing” the side roll onto the hollow;
• If required, we form complex leaves by tying together threads of leaves;
• Having laid out the leaves on the film (now any film), using a pipette we impregnate the threads with acrylic varnish. Once it dries, the foliage is ready for assembly.

Manufacturing procedure New Year's decorations and lamps made from threads has been described many times in RuNet. For example - video:

Video: DIY twine/thread lampshade

Here we can only note that, firstly, you will need at least 100 m of thread for a medium-sized lampshade. Secondly, there is no point in using inflatable balls as mandrels: after 10-20 turns, under the pressure of the stretched threads, the ball protrudes where it is not necessary, and the end result is something inconceivable. Thirdly, there is also no need to soak the threads in flour paste in advance: the product will turn out fragile and not moisture-resistant.

As a mandrel when making a lampshade from threads, it is best to use a tightly inflated chamber from a sports ball or a durable silicone beach ball, inflated from a pump through a nipple. The mandrel is lubricated several times with petroleum jelly (lanolin), carefully rubbing it with your hands. It won't harm the ball in any way; on the contrary, it will prolong his life.

Device for making a lampshade from threads

Next, the thread is wound onto the mandrel, continuously pulled through a simple device, see fig. This mini-impregnation bath, so that it does not accidentally crawl, tip over or spill glue on something, is secured on the table with tape; convenient double-sided. The glass is first pierced with a needle and thread, then PVA or acrylic varnish is poured and shaken, tightening as necessary. Usually the thread goes through the bath itself, because... glue until it dries is a good lubricant.

When winding, do not forget to leave a window for entering the cable and cartridge - the strength of the cut thread ball drops sharply! A day later, after its completion, the air is released from the mandrel and pulled out through the same window. “Vase-green”, it sticks to the threads very rarely and weakly: you can tear it off by slightly pulling or pressing it with your finger, but the product remains intact.

Note: Instead of thread, you can use jute, sisal or propylene twine, but there will be a lampshade for it best use, see below.

And where is all this going?

Ball lamps, see fig., are suitable for children's rooms, because... form an even soft light. The one on the left is made from paper cupcake wrappers - on a yarn ball base. Threads – propylene or thin colorless nylon; binder – acrylic varnish. White in the spool, after impregnation with varnish, such threads become almost transparent. The lampshade-ball made from cups (on the right) is not so interesting, because... The dishes are all the same, but it is also more difficult to tear it apart.

Chandelier lampshades for children's rooms

A hemispherical lampshade made from the same cups would be more suitable for the hallway, see fig. on right. With a low lamp power (more precisely, its luminous flux) it will give a bright spot below and acceptable illumination of the rest of the room, so you can use low-heating incandescent lamps of 15-30 W. The fact is that the resource of energy-saving lamps and LED lamps decreases sharply when switched on/off frequently. And a low-power incandescent lamp, especially in the hallway where the light is not constantly on, will not significantly increase electricity costs.

Chandelier lampshade in the hallway

A special case is the kitchen. The lighting requirements for it are set out in the previous article. But the lampshade in the kitchen quickly gets dirty, and the soot eats away firmly. Let us remember: bright light promotes condensation and bituminization of vapors of organic compounds. This is the deposition of soot; the lampshade is lit the brightest.

The simplest solution is a disposable paper lampshade. “Bump”, as in pos. 1 pic. below will give just the right type of lighting in the kitchen, but you will have to redo it quite often. It is better to mold a papier-mâché lampshade on a suitable frame, pos. 2. After varnishing with acrylic varnish, it can be carefully washed with a cloth and dishwashing detergent, and painted with a blacksmith’s patina, it will look like a hand-forged item and certainly not like some old newspaper.

Lampshades for kitchen lamps

But the lampshade for pos. 3 – juice straws glued to the bottle – an example of a bad solution. Such a lampshade will provide ideal light for the kitchen (the straws also work partly as light guides), but it will get dirty quickly, you can’t clean it properly, and the product is labor-intensive. Plastic reflectors for kitchen lamps for local lighting are best made from reusable plastic dishes, pos. 4, it is quite durable, inexpensive and easy to clean. Cups with handles and saucers, of course, are a matter of design decision, but bowls without a pattern are what you need.

How to make papier-mâché?

Papier-mâché is a useful material for many purposes, so let us recall the technology of its preparation and use:

• Old newspapers, or, better yet, the cheapest unglued writing paper are torn into shreds about the size of a fingernail thumb. You will need a lot of paper!
• Fill a suitable container with scraps to the top; say, a liter glass jar.
• 1/3-1/5 by volume of PVA is diluted in boiling water.
• While the solution has not cooled, pour it into the paper pulp.
• Stir until the paper completely dissolves into fibers.
• Once the papier-mâché has cooled, pour it into a consumable container or use it immediately. Paper paste can be stored for up to 6 months. in the refrigerator in a tightly sealed container.
• Prepare the next portion in the same way.
• If the paper paste goes into use right away, you can add the next one to the stuck area of ​​the mandrel while the previous one is still wet and crumpled with your fingers. If you apply it dry, the product, when dry, may fall apart into “cakes”.
• The workpiece is ready for varnishing, painting, etc. after a week of drying at a temperature of at least 22 degrees. The air temperature around the workpiece must be the same on all sides! Dry on a radiator, convector, in direct sunlight or infrared emitter it is forbidden!

Tubes

Lampshades and shades from sections of tubes are most often made for bedside lamps and lamps in the bedroom: due to their round cross-section, there is always a significant refraction of light, which can be very intimate and romantic, but in most cases is undesirable for constant and working lighting. Lampshades made of translucent tubes also provide a rather dappled light, see figure; if you use pieces of thin transparent PVC hose, the play of light will turn out very beautiful, but you don’t need to look at it for a long time, much less read or sew in such light.

Tube lampshade

Paper and other fibrous materials refract light little, but tubes made from them are not strong in themselves. For example, a lampshade made of newspaper tubes it is better to do it on a frame, see below: just because they wrinkle easily, thin paper tubes are an excellent material for weaving. As for the lighting properties, paper, especially clean paper, has excellent ones.

Lampshade on frame

Now let's move on to lampshades that are suitable anywhere, incl. and for a table lamp that can be pushed to the floor with an elbow. In addition, we will set the condition that the lampshade covering can be washed, cleaned, and changed at will. Therefore, we do not touch glass or solid hard plastic lampshades; Besides, you can’t make them at home yourself. That is, we will work on lampshades on a frame with soft lining.

About fabrics for lampshades

It is preferable to sew the decorative light cover of the lampshade from fabric with fleecy threads, i.e. natural. Due to diffraction on smooth synthetic threads, the light penetrating through such a lampshade may be hard. Choosing fabric for a lampshade by eye is not difficult: through the sample, turning it smoothly, look at some compact bright light source; preferably LED, because it gives the most coherent, i.e. ordered, light. The selection criterion is simple: the less moire fringes are observed from different viewing angles, the better the fabric.

About restoring the lampshade

The lampshade frame is quite labor-intensive and technologically complex, so first you need to look around the household to see if there is a lampshade from an old lamp lying around somewhere. Straightening it, repairing it and updating the lampshade with a new cover will be easier than making the frame from scratch.

Homemade tool for measuring large diameters

The discovered “basket” may turn out to be of a very elaborate shape, and to create patterns (see below) you will need to accurately measure its diameters in several places. In this case, a homemade caliper from 3 will help out wooden slats and a pair of drawing squares. Of course, it will not give the accuracy of a factory rod, but achievable (+/–1 mm) is enough for cutting and sewing work. And an idea of ​​the capabilities of such a tool is given in Fig.

The measurement procedure is a 2-step procedure: marks are made with a pencil on the sponges where they touch the object, and then the size is taken between the marks with a tape measure. In order for the movable sponge to glide more smoothly, and, accordingly, the measurement to be more accurate, you need to place a fluoroplastic film under the rubber bands holding it. To measure small diameters, the jaws are turned over with the squares facing out.

Constructing a pattern

Now let's shoot required diameters: the lower and upper hoops (D1 and D11 in position 1 in the figure), the largest and smallest on the belts (D2, D6, D10), in places of kinks, i.e. where the curvature of the generatrix changes sign (D4, D8) and at kinks (D5). We take the others more or less evenly between the mandatory ones.

Constructing a lampshade pattern

The diameters of the pattern of 6 wedges will, taking into account the tightening of the fabric, be equal to half the measured diameters (item 2). If there are supposed to be more or fewer wedges of the finished sleeve, proportionally change the proportion of the diameter in the corresponding diameter of the pattern. But it’s too early to cut and sew.

There at pos. 2 it can be seen that the seaming allowance is not geometrically completely similar to the template. In knot I (kink inward) this is not so bad: you can sew on a drawstring sleeve and tighten the seam with a cord. If the decor of the lampshade involves ruffles, frills, scallops, etc., then perhaps this is how it should be: small folds will fall into place, and the cord will not be visible at a break in the contour.

However, on the shelf of the contour (node ​​II), no matter how you look at it, it is in no way possible to give an allowance so that the seam does not “run away”. In higher geometry it is proven why, but we don’t need to go into this jungle: we will simply cut the paper template according to “capricious” diameters at the kinks and shelves (item 3).

Sewing a cover

Now, how to sew a lampshade using our patterns? First, individual parts of the sleeve are sewn; in this case, bottom, middle and top. Then the widest adjacent part (here the middle) is sewn to the widest belt (bottom). Next, the 2 parts that are next in width are sewn together in the same way, etc. The point is that the shortest transverse seam (we have Seam 2) is sewn last. IN this sample After sewing the bottom to the middle, the top is sewn to them. The sewing of the cover is completed by trimming off the excess allowances, except for the lower and upper hems. The edges must be trimmed.

Frame covering

The next stage is placing the cover on the frame. This is where the machine can be put in the closet: the work is entirely manual. Step by step covering the lampshade frame with a cover is done as follows:

• The cover is turned inside out (it is probably clear that it was sewn from the inside out) and put on the frame;
• Wrap it inside and stitch the top flap;
• Pull and trim the fabric to the first bend (here D8). If there was no hoop in the original sample, it must be installed in advance, see below;
• Baste the fabric to the edges of the frame from top to bottom, alternately, and to the hoop at the bend;
• Repeat paragraphs. 3 and 4 to the next bend (now D5), and so on to the bottom hoop;
• Wrap and stitch the bottom flap.

How the simplest frame of a table lamp or floor lamp is constructed can be seen in pos. 1 pic. The pendant for the chandelier is different in that the ring will be at the top, the extensions from it will go to the upper hoop, and then additional holes are needed in the ring for attaching the pendant.

Lampshade frame structure

The ring is cut from a well-soldered and fairly durable sheet metal(bronze, brass, galvanized steel 0.4-2 mm thick) or durable plastic from 1 mm. Will do computer disk, for the E10 cartridge you will only need to drill holes in it for braces and fastenings. The main dimensions of the ring for the E27 cartridge with fastening with union shaped nuts (item 3) are given in item. 2. But making a ring for fastening in the gap between the body and the clamp of the cartridge with a skirt (item 4) is unacceptable! Such cartridges are attached only with a threaded fitting in the lid!

How the stretchers are attached to the ring is shown in pos. 5: their blanks are not bent completely with a hook, inserted into the mounting holes and carefully pressed with pliers. Then, if the ring is metal, solder it (see below). If it is plastic, fix it with drops of superglue or silicone.

Soldered assembly

Frame parts are made of plastic steel wire with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm or bicycle spokes. The latter are much stronger, do not rust and do not require painting, but they need to be bent carefully and they are less soldered. To solder the frame you will need:

• A soldering iron of at least 65 W (preferably 100-150 W).
• 6% solution of orthophosphoric acid. Sold for soldering in radio stores and construction stores. Phosphoric acid is also available as food supplement E338 in the form of needle-shaped, colorless, hygroscopic crystals.
• Flux paste (gel for soldering), always with borax.
• Thin, 0.15-0.35 mm, bare copper wire. You can take strands from an electrical wire.
• Solder POS-30 or POS-40. They are refractory (that’s why you need a powerful soldering iron), but much stronger than POS-61 and other low-melting ones.

Note: phosphoric acid of medium strength does not emit highly toxic and/or caustic fumes. But all the same, when working with it you need to take precautions - wear safety glasses and gloves (household latex ones will do).

The key procedures for assembling a soldered frame are shown in Fig.

Soldering steel parts

The brazed steel frame is assembled in stages as follows:

• The ends of the linear blanks are kept in acid for 3-4 minutes (item 1), and then rinsed in water (item 2). You need at least 1 liter of water, and it must be changed after 4-5 washes.
• If the soldering is in the middle or the part is bent, soak a clean white rag in acid and wrap it around the soldering area. Hold for about half a minute, then rinse the rag in acid, wrap it around the soldering area again, and so on until total time the effect of acid on metal will not reach the same 3-4 minutes. After treatment with acid, the part is then washed under running water for 1-2 minutes.
• Without touching the treated areas with your bare fingers, the frame is completely assembled without soldering: the soldering areas are butt tight, but not tight, i.e. with gaps between turns of 1.5-2 mm, wrapped with copper wire, pos. 3 and 4, and apply 2-3 drops of flux paste to each joint. Soldering points on the cross parts of the parts are wrapped with 2-3 turns. copper wire crosswise and flux with 1-2 drops.
• Semi-dry, i.e. without a hanging drop of solder, use a soldering iron tip to heat the soldering areas until the flux spreads over all the cracks, pos. 5. There is no need to heat the flux until the flux boils and vapor appears. Also, the final result will be better if you heat the flux with a separate soldering iron with a dry bronze nickel-plated tip.
• Take a drop of solder, apply it to the soldering area (item 6) and heat until it flows everywhere, like flux before. The excess solder hanging below is carefully removed with a soldering iron tip. It is impossible to apply unmelted solder in the form of a flexible wire, and refractory solders are produced mainly in rods.

Fabric or twine?

Propylene packaging twine and paper tubes have good lighting properties. If the lampshade is made from woven twine or newspaper tubes, it will give an even, soft light, and complex cutting and sewing work will be eliminated. But the frame for a wicker lampshade must, firstly, have at least 10-12 ribs evenly spaced around the circumference.

Note: if the frame is of a simple shape, then only 3-4 ribs can be load-bearing (steel). Let the rest be made of straw; they are glued to the upper and lower hoops.

Secondly, to create rims at the top and bottom, respectively. The trains are either made double in height, with an interval of 2-3 cm, or strips of thin metal or hard plastic of the same width are attached to them. Headbands are needed for decorative reasons: a solid one is wrapped with twine or a tube, and if the headband is double, the weave can be made in a figure eight. All lateral surface braided like a basket.

Stained glass lampshade

Stained glass lampshades generate light flux mainly by refraction, so they are more suitable for the living room.

stained glass lampshades and lampshades

Stained glass fragments are made from rhinestones, faceted or cabochons. A stained glass lampshade is assembled on a heat-resistant frame (for example, a steel bucket) using the Tiffany technique. But compared to stained glass for a window or door, since the connections of the elements are not solid, but point-based, there are significant differences:

• Only strong, refractory solder is used, the same as for the lampshade frame, as well as flux and borax.
• Before soldering, the framing of rhinestones is made only from special copper foil - folia - 3-15 mm wide, depending on the width of the crystal rim.
• The protective film is removed from the foil immediately before applying it to the crystal; touch the outer (soldered) surface of the foil with bare hands it is forbidden!
• Also, you can’t put off soldering foil-wrapped rhinestones until tomorrow: the copper will have time to oxidize, and the joints will turn out to be fragile.
• Upon completion of soldering and thorough washing of flux residues (with a rag with alcohol; then with distilled water), the soldering is copper-plated by applying a thick blue solution of copper sulfate with a brush.
• The remaining vitriol is washed off under running water. You cannot rub with a brush or even cotton wool, because... The copper film on the solder is very thin.

A small surprise - about New Year's chandeliers and lampshades

New Year is coming, it's time to do Christmas decorations And holiday decorations. And - a New Year's chandelier. A chandelier? Yes. Remember how the festive mood drops if the overhead light is turned on in the room with the Christmas tree. No matter what, New Year’s lighting should correspond to the spirit of the holiday. Let's put off lighting technology until serious days; nothing from the festive light will happen to us in a few evenings. It's time for business, but it's also time for fun.

New Year's chandeliers

Typically, a New Year's chandelier is a Christmas wreath attached to the chandelier in the living room with light bulbs woven into it. But do electrical installation work at altitude in the pre-holiday bustle, even an experienced electrician would not need it. And what if the Christmas tree is in the nursery, where the chandelier is made of paper? Then you can at least buy inexpensive plastic blanks for Christmas tree balls, a garland with colorless light bulbs, stuff them into the balls, and hang such a heap (on the left in the figure) where it is more convenient.

If the design of an “everyday” chandelier is suitable, you can screw candle lamps into it and decorate it with the same balls or, for example, painted pine cones, on the right there. Or you can try a little and make a New Year's jasmine chandelier with your own hands, as in the video below. New Year is New Year, whatever you say.

We will need:
wire basket (wire flower pots are also suitable)
twine
ceiling mount for lamp
white paint in a can for painting metal
socket, electric wire and light bulb

Manufacturing Instructions DIY lampshade:

1. If there is a wire passing through the center of the bottom of the wire basket, then you will have to cut a piece from it exactly in the center so that you can later insert the socket with the light bulb. Once you've done this, use a hot glue gun to glue the ceiling light mount to the bottom of the basket. The glue will not perform load-bearing functions; it is only needed to keep the mount in the right place.

2. If necessary, paint the wire basket White color spray paint.

3. Wrap the basket with twine. Here you can give free rein to your imagination and wrap it the way you want. You need to wrap it tightly, “without holes.” This may take quite a long time.

4. When you come to the end, tie a loose knot of twine inside.

5.Insert the socket with the electric wire into the hole in the lamp mount and hang the lampshade, securing it to the ceiling.

6. Screw in the light bulb and enjoy your own creation!

Every housewife wants her home to be beautiful. Lamps and floor lamps, as a rule, are decoration of the room. But it’s not always possible to choose an option that suits the interior, so there’s nothing left to do but make a lampshade with your own hands. This does not require skill in craftsmanship, you just need to follow the step-by-step instructions. If you choose the right style and style of the product, it will transform the interior.

Disposable spoons

Before you make a lampshade for a floor lamp with your own hands, you can look at the finished products on the Internet. To make crafts, you can use a wide variety of materials in the form of paper, thread, fabric, disposable cups and spoons, and plastic bottles. Beads, beads, feathers, hand painting and dried flowers are suitable as decoration. Thus, you can update an ordinary floor lamp, table lamp, sconce or ceiling lamp .

A spoon lampshade will fit perfectly into the kitchen interior. The material for its manufacture is ordinary plastic spoons. A large plastic bottle is suitable as the frame of the product.

You need to prepare for work:

1. Five liter bottle.
2. Wire cutters.
3. Glue gun.
4. Cartridge with cord.

You can choose any color of the spoons if you wish. Their number depends on the size of the lampshade. The handles of the spoons must be cut off using wire cutters.

A plastic bottle will become a frame if you cut off its neck and bottom. Starting from the bottom of the frame, you need to glue the spoons. The parts should be turned with the convex side up and pressed tightly against each other. An overlap is made from the second row, so that the arrangement of the spoons resembles the scales of a fish. If the work is done carefully, you will get a very beautiful product.

When the lampshade is completely covered with parts, all that remains is to attach the socket with the cord and screw in the light bulb.

Plastic bottles

To make a lampshade, leaf-shaped parts are cut out of plastic bottles. Then all the details must be assembled into a composition. This an unusual product you can decorate a children's room, hallway, veranda or loggia. To work you need:

Cut leaves with cloves of any size from plastic bottles. To make the leaves curl a little, you need to carefully walk along their edges with a soldering iron, then draw the veins. Place a thread in the middle of the leaf and fuse it using a tool.

When all the parts are ready, soak the threads with acrylic varnish and let dry. Next, attach the leaves in a certain sequence to the frame using a glue gun. The frame can be anything, for example, rolled from wire and glued to the lampshade.

Lampshade made of threads

An excellent product can be made using thread, twine, jute rope or cord. This lampshade is ideal for a ceiling lamp or floor lamp. The craft will decorate your living room, hallway, kitchen or children's room. This is an excellent option for a summer veranda.

To make the product you need to prepare:

1. Rope or thick thread.
2. Inflatable silicone ball.
3. Scissors.
4. PVA glue.
5. Plastic cup.
6. Cartridge with cord.
7. Petrolatum.
8. Glue gun.

Lubricate the surface of the inflated ball with Vaseline. Soak the threads well in PVA glue and wrap them around the ball. If you want the lampshade to be not completely transparent, the threads should be wound more tightly. The workpiece must be dried for 24 hours.

Carefully lower the ball and pull it out of the thread frame. Thanks to Vaseline, the threads will not stick to the ball.

Next, cut off a small part from the top and bottom of the product. The top hole will be needed to install a cartridge with a cord. The lower, wider hole is designed to allow you to replace the light bulb.

It’s a good idea to decorate the finished lampshade with beads or coffee beans. Decorations are attached using a glue gun.

Fabric use

A lampshade made of fabric is excellent option for home or cottage. To sew it, you need to cut a strip of fabric and sew its edges on a sewing machine. Then gather the material into a ring, thread the cord through the top and pull it together to form assemblies. Place the workpiece onto a round frame.

Exist different ways making a frame for a lampshade with your own hands, master class with step by step instructions easy to find on the Internet. For example, make several rings from wire different sizes and connect them in ascending order from top to bottom.

As decoration finished product fringe, embroidery, bows, and beads are used. Similarly, you can make a lampshade with your own hands for a fabric chandelier.

Cardboard based

It is very easy to restore an old lampshade if you cover it with fabric yourself. To do this, you need to prepare material, supplemented with various decorative elements. A fabric product made from cardboard can be used to decorate a table lamp, sconce, chandelier or night light. The lampshade will turn out neat if, before covering the frame, the material is sheathed on a machine. For the workflow you need to prepare:

1. Textile.
2. Ruler.
3. Pencil.
4. Iron.
5. Pins.
6. Threads.
7. Cardboard.
8. Glue.

To begin with, you should prepare a cardboard pattern suitable for the frame. Then attach it to the fabric with pins and outline it with a pencil. It is recommended to leave a 2 cm indent from the outlined line, which will need to be folded inward. Next, remove the pattern and pins and sew the material on a machine.

Apply glue to a well-ironed fabric and dry it a little. Then glue the material to the frame. When the glue dries, the product can be used.

A self-made lampshade looks decent and does not require large financial expenses. The product is perfect for a gift, and its production will be a great option leisure activities.

Attention, TODAY only!

It is well known that any product made by human hands is much more interesting and beautiful than mass-produced products. This is precisely what explains the great demand all over the world for handmade products, which has appeared in recent years. Of course, you can purchase a finished piece of jewelry from a craftsman or order it according to your own sketch, but is it worth spending money on something that you can easily make yourself, receiving incredible pleasure from the process of work itself and, of course, from the finished result?

An excellent material for interior decor is rope made from natural fibers. Buying a rope made of hemp, jute or sisal today is not at all difficult and it is quite inexpensive, and you can make from it a huge number of necessary and very beautiful things that will decorate the interior of a living space, cafe or club. As an example, we can cite rope chandeliers - beautiful, light and invariably attracting attention. This chandelier will fit perfectly into an interior in a country or romantic style and can become a real highlight of the design.

Materials and tools

There are many options for chandeliers made from natural ropes. There are both complex designs, the creation of which requires certain skills and the use of many auxiliary materials, and very simple ones that anyone can make. One of the simplest lamps of this type is the “Spider” - a ceiling chandelier that will perfectly complement the interior in the industrial style.

For work we will need:

• or hemp, with a diameter of 20-30 mm;
• Two-core wire, for example ShVVP 2x0.5 mm;
• Lamp sockets, according to the number of lighting elements;
• Incandescent lamps 40-60 Watt;
• The base is from an old multi-arm chandelier or a self-made bowl made of wood with holes according to the number of “horns”.

Let's get started

The most difficult part of the job is placing the wire inside the rope or rope. Of course, we will not unravel the rope and braid it again with the guide inside. To place a wire in a rope, you just need to grab the ends and start rotating them in different directions. In this case, the strands diverge and it is quite possible to place a small cross-section of wire between them. After the wire is inside the rope, connect a cartridge to one end of each part. Our lamp will not have shades, so the sockets need to be decorated. One of the most simple options is to paint them in a color that matches the shade of the rope, but the most aesthetic option can be obtained by slightly unbraiding its ends and winding strands around the cartridge. In order for the winding to hold, it needs to be properly glued.

When all the elements are ready, you can start assembling a chandelier. We pass the wires through the holes in the base and connect them to the main cable through which power will be supplied to the chandelier. It is important to be especially careful here and observe polarity. All connections must be carefully insulated using electrical tape or. The ends of the ropes should not be thrown into the bowl in order to comply with the rules fire safety. Before fixing the chandelier to the ceiling, you can get a little creative by tying the ropes in picturesque knots.

The Spider chandelier is attached to the ceiling in several places - in the center, like a regular ceiling lamp, and also in the center of each individual rope element. To fix the product, you can buy self-tapping hooks. Separately, it is worth mentioning the lamps used with a rope chandelier. To avoid overheating, you should not use too powerful lamps - it is enough to take lighting fixtures of 40-60 watts. The now popular Edison incandescent lamps with unusual stylized glass bulbs and intricately arranged spirals look great with such a chandelier.

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