The water coming out of the thermopot is bad. Thermopot pump does not work reason

Electric kettles - thermoses, or thermopots, serve regularly for 2 - 3 years, then they usually fail. The main reasons for this are: they stop boiling water, they don’t pour boiling water and because of water leakage. There is a lot of material on the Internet about repairing thermopots, but there are almost no diagrams. The article briefly describes models of thermopots, the diagrams of which are copied from products whose malfunctions the author encountered during repairs. The article provides examples of circuit solutions used in most models of modern thermopots, despite large number clones produced by various companies..

In the above diagrams, the designations of most parts correspond to those indicated on the boards. For different models of thermopots, the secondary power supply circuits and control units are very different. All thermopots have a container for boiling water made of stainless steel. Thermal electric heaters, heating elements, usually two of them, are fixed in its lower part for boiling and heating water, in this case they are located in one block, which has three terminals. At the bottom of the container there is a thermal switch for a temperature of 88 - 96 degrees C or a temperature sensor, which gives a signal to turn off the heating element of the boiler when the desired water temperature is reached. On the side wall of the container there is a thermal switch connected in series for a temperature of 102 - 110 degrees C and an FU fuse for 125 degrees C/10A, placed in a silicone tube. They turn off the power supply to the thermopot when the temperature of the boiling container increases due to lack of water or in the event of a short circuit. The same type of electric motors are used to supply hot water in thermopots. DC for voltage 12 V, with a centrifugal pump.

Most of the thermopot parts are located on two boards. The control board, on which the control buttons and LEDs are located, is located in the upper part of the case. The main board, on which most of the power connectors, control units, relays, sources and secondary voltage stabilizers are located, is located in the lower part of the case under the boiling water container. Both boards are connected to each other by wire harnesses with connectors.

The diagram of the Elenberg TN-6030 thermopot is shown in Fig. 1. Earlier, in 2014, the author posted it on the go-radio website, so a link to this site is provided. The TN-6030 circuit is quite simple and completely analog. A pulsating current constantly flows through the water heating element EK1 and the diode VD9 in only one direction, so the resistance of this heating element is two times less than a similar heating element of the same power in other models, where it is powered by alternating current. When the electric motor is turned on, a constant pulsating current of a different polarity, up to 150 mA, begins to flow through it and the VD10 diode, and through the EK1 heating element AC. Automatic switching on and off of the heating element for boiling water EK2 is carried out by thermal switch SF1. Forced switching on of the heating element EK2 for up to 2 minutes is carried out by contacts K1.1 of relay K1. A constant voltage of 14 V, stabilized by the chain R3 and VD6, is supplied to transistors VT1 - VT2 of the control stage of relay K1 from the diode bridge VD1 - VD4. Frequent malfunction This model of thermosweat is caused by burnout of the contacts of the thermal switch SF1, because all the current of the heating element EK2 passes through it. Replacing the thermal switch is not difficult; you just need to unscrew two screws on the flange and rearrange the two power connectors. Detailed videos of this replacement are available on the Internet.

Another malfunction is poor operation of the hot water supply pump. Its reason is an increase in friction on the rotor axis of an electric motor operating at elevated temperatures due to deterioration in the quality of the lubricant. The magnetic clutch of the pump consists of a magnetic disk mounted on the rotor shaft of the electric motor and a pump impeller mounted on the axle shaft in the cover of the pump housing. A magnetic disk is also fixed at the base of the impeller. A sealed gasket is installed between the two magnetic disks. Rice. 2.

The author lubricated the rotor support points at the ends of the electric motor housing with ordinary spindle oil. It helped for a couple of months. It is difficult to get to the front support point, I had to disassemble the pump and pour oil under the magnetic disk, and turn it with my finger, at this moment the electric motor is in a vertical position so that the oil flows into the right place. The remaining oil is poured over the edge. There is no need to remove the disk from the rotor axis; a couple of removals and it will not stay on the rotor axis. It’s easier to immediately replace the engine with the pump.

Water leaks in thermopots rarely occur, usually due to mechanical damage. One day, the cause of water appearing under the kettle turned out to be a barely noticeable crack in the upper part of the plastic case, under the lid, running along the rim of the container for boiling water. Steam penetrated into this gap, which then condensed onto inner surface the walls of the case, the plastic crumbled along the crack. That kettle was beyond repair.

The diagram of the Vitek VT-1188 thermopot is shown in Fig. 3. In this model, a secondary voltage of 12 - 14 V is supplied to the control units from transformer T1, installed at the bottom of the housing under the water tank, and from the rectifier bridge VD1 - VD4. A voltage of 5 V from the ic2 stabilizer is supplied to power the ic1 processor, which controls the entire operation of the thermopot. At the command of optocoupler ic3, processor ic1 should signal the activation of protection, SF1 or FU1, although it is not clear how - a buzzer is not installed in this model. At the bottom of the boiling tank there is an RT temperature sensor installed from two MF58 thermistors connected in parallel with a negative TKS in KD-3 housings. The boiler shutdown temperature is set manually using the sw2 button. Thermopots VT-1188 and VT-1187 do not have a heating element for heating water, which is why turning on and off the heating element for boiling, EK1 occurs more often than in other models. Therefore, in the VT-1188, the relay contacts burn out more often and the heating element burns out. The case of burnout of the relay mounting pin on the board is described in. If all these malfunctions occur, the kettle's display and pump motor work normally, but the water does not boil. If the relay contacts burn and stick, or transistor Q1 breaks down, the boiling mode may not turn off. When repairing these breakdowns, faulty parts are replaced.

Photo of the main board VT-1188. Rice. 4.

The VT-1191 thermopot diagram is shown in Fig. 5. The secondary voltage source for the control units is pulsed, made on the VIPer 12A microcircuit using a transformerless circuit. The constant voltage of 18 V at its output is filtered by capacitors EL3, C3 and inductor L2, then reduced by the zener diode ZD2 to 12 V. The control circuit operates on the ic1 processor, there are no markings on its body, there is only a label indicating the model of the thermopot. A voltage of 5 V is supplied to ic1 from the stabilizer on transistor Q4 and zener diode ZD3. The VT-1191 thermopot has two heating elements: EK1 for boiling and EK2 for heating water. Contacts K1,1 of relay K1 alternately connect the terminals of one of them to the network, depending on the voltage at pin No. 5 of ic1, which is supplied to the base of transistor Q1 through connector CN1, LED HL2 and R7. A small base current of transistor Q2 flows through thermal switch SF2, so SF2 is connected to the board and pin No. 4 of ic1 with a low-current connector. The electric motor is turned on by transistor Q3 when “+” appears at pin No. 3 of ic1. The malfunction of the thermopot was manifested in the fact that it did not boil or pour water, only the green HL3 indicator was on. The cause of the breakdown was the failure of the ic1 processor.

Fig.6 Photo of the main board VT-1191, fixed in the thermopot housing.

A lot of advice on repairing thermopots has already been given, but I’ll add two more:

1) Take photographs of the entire process of disassembling and repairing the kettle. This will then facilitate its subsequent assembly and especially the installation of power connectors. (Fig. 6).

2) If the housings of low-current connectors installed on boards wobble even slightly in their places, these housings must be glued to the board and the contacts must be soldered. Failure of connector contacts after repair and assembly of the thermopot can lead to new malfunctions.

References

“Repair of electric kettle relay Vitek VT-1188”
Radio magazine 2016-8-35.

A thermopot has many advantages, however, like a simple kettle, it can sometimes break. To repair a thermos kettle with your own hands, you should imagine how it works.

Device

All thermos heaters have a similar design and operating principle, differing only additional functions, as well as the material of manufacture. The working parts of the thermopot are enclosed in a housing, and in order to repair the thermopot, it will have to be removed. Water is poured into a stainless steel tank, in the bottom of which two heating elements are built. One of them produces the main heating to boiling water, and the second only heats the water. There is also a general conclusion. Each wire is covered with ceramic protection - “beads”. This prevents the wires from coming into contact with the metal container.

A cylindrical object can be seen on the side. This is a thermopot motor ( water pump), designed to supply water. In different models, the voltage drop across the motor ranges from 8 to 24 volts.

It is impossible not to notice the electronic board on which the circuit (time relay) is mounted, which is responsible for re-boiling. The circuit is also needed to convert voltage for the pump and relay. You can solder the detached contacts on the circuit with your own hands, thus repairing them.

In addition to the main board, the thermopot has a control board. With its help, the water supply and reheating buttons operate, and red and LED indicators are connected to it, indicating which mode the thermopot is in.

The thermal switch is of great importance in all heating devices. It is installed in the bottom and side of the water tank. In case the thermal switch does not work, a thermal fuse is also provided. This allows you to prevent overheating and damage to the thermopot if it is turned on empty.

Knowing the location of all the main parts of the thermopot, identifying the problem and making repairs is much easier. It’s even better to study the diagram to understand what is connected and what parts can be changed. In some cases, repairs do not make sense, and even specialists will not undertake them.

We disassemble the thermopot

It’s worth noting right away that it’s easiest to remove it with your own hands. top part thermos heater. To disassemble the thermopot, you need to find and unscrew the screws located at the bottom of the device. After this, the housing can be easily removed. First you need to visually inspect the board. It happens that a crack is discovered in the solder joint, and the soldered element falls off. In this case, you should use a soldering iron to secure everything as it was.

Be sure to inspect the thermal switch located in the bottom. Its condition is checked with an ohmmeter. The working device has almost zero resistance. The non-working part must be replaced with a new one. And then the question becomes where to buy the necessary spare part. Often this can only be done through online stores.

To remove the pump if it malfunctions, you need to disconnect the supply tube from it and unscrew the bolts. Sometimes cleaning the impeller and magnet with a regular napkin gives results. In some cases, repairs will no longer help, and you will have to resort to replacing the thermopot.

How to fix some problems

Let's look at what malfunctions a thermopot can have and how to fix them yourself.

The indicator panel does not turn on and the device does not work at all. In this case, you should check all wires, all connections, as well as the fuse and thermal regulator. If there are several reasons, then repairs will be more difficult to complete.
Only the reboil button works. The main first boiling is not carried out. In this case, check the temperature switch located in the bottom.
The first boiling works, but when boiling again, the thermopot does not turn on. You should inspect the circuit on the main board.
The water can only be heated; the thermopot does not boil. Most likely, the heating element has burned out or the contact has broken.
The water supply function has stopped working. There is a problem with the pump's power supply. Quite often, the additional heating coil also burns out, after which voltage is no longer supplied to the motor.

If the heating element spirals are burnt out, then it is not economically feasible to repair the thermopot. Firstly, it is difficult to disassemble the tank, and secondly, the cost of insulation and high-resistance wires is quite high.

When the repair is completed, it is necessary to check the electrical safety of the device. To do this, it is necessary to measure the resistance between the plug contacts and the tank, as well as between the plug contacts and the outer casing. Resistance must be endless.

Thermopot is a duo of a thermos and an electric kettle, which is designed to store water at a constant temperature (close to boiling). This is achieved by automatically reheating the liquid when it cools below a predetermined level. The process occurs continuously as long as there is liquid in the kettle, or until it is forcibly disconnected from electrical network. But, like any other electrical appliance, this equipment also fails. However, don’t get upset and immediately take it to the service center. If the damage is not very serious, then it is quite possible to repair the thermostat yourself.

Operating principle of the thermopot

To understand the causes of breakdowns and have a better idea of how to repair a thermopot, you should familiarize yourself with the principle of its operation. First, the device boils water, like a regular kettle, and then the control module of the device comes into action, which, through a thermostat, monitors the set temperature. minimum temperature liquid and, as soon as it drops below normal, immediately starts re-boiling. For heating, the thermopot uses a second heating element, which is always less powerful than the main one, since its functioning is very fleeting.

Due to the large dimensions and considerable weight of the thermopot, for pouring boiling water into a cup a built-in pump is provided. It can be powered by electricity, like Marta products. This pump allows you to configure auto-filling via the control module. There is also a mechanical (manual) pump, like the MAGNIT RTP-002, then the liquid is pumped into the mug manually through a special spout. Many models (for example: Vitek vt 1187 gy, Saturn ST-EK8032, Mystery MTP-2403 and Bravo TA-65 S thermos kettle) have both types of pumps.

In addition to the above parts (control module, thermostat, two heating elements and a pump), the circuit must include thermostat(sometimes two, as with products from Maxwell and Scarlett) and thermal fuse. Their main task is to prevent overheating and fire of the device. For correct operation of the electric pump and control module, a power supply with step-down transformer.

Mostly all thermopots work according to the same general scheme and they differ only in small details. For example, some models are equipped with an auto-on timer. IN budget options There may be no low-power heating element (as in products from Vitek and Magnit). But there are thermopots (for example, the Polaris PWP 4012D thermos kettle) that combine almost all useful functions.

Disassembling the thermopot

To quickly find and fix faults, the thermopot needs to be disassembled. And since all models have a similar structure, there is a common algorithm of actions. Dismantling the device is not difficult; to do this, just follow the following instructions:

disconnect the device from the mains and empty the water from it;
remove the screws at the bottom;
remove the clamps from the ring and unscrew the loosened screws;
remove the pallet;
dismantle the pump, first disconnecting the hoses from it;
remove the thermopot cover to make it easier to install the device on the table upside down;
unscrew printed circuit board and move it to the side so that it does not interfere;
Unscrew the screws hidden under the board gasket;
remove the bottom along with the tray;
unscrew another 8 screws holding the protective cover;
remove the cover and remove the heater.

Advice! To ensure that assembling the thermopot after repair does not cause problems, you should record the location of the wires and parts on the camera.

Typical breakdowns and their elimination

For devices manufactured according to the same design, they are characterized by typical faults. How to find and eliminate them will be described in pictures below.

Doesn't turn on

If the device does not turn on, then the problem is in violation of electrical circuit contacts. The only question is where the break occurred. You need to start checking with the power cord. If it is unusable, replace the wire with a new one. Then all connections of both thermal switches must be checked. Perhaps an emergency trip occurred, and due to a faulty thermostat, the contacts did not return to place. Also, the connection at the thermal fuse may not be restored. To check, you need to disconnect the questionable part and short-circuit the wires directly. If this works, the defective part is replaced with a new one.

Constantly boils water

A situation where the water constantly boils and the device does not turn off can only occur with the most budget models with one thermostat. It is because of its breakdown that the thermopot does not turn off after boiling. Here you should immediately, without any checks, change the thermal switch. Good and reliable samples always have a backup thermostat. And some manufacturers install additional control in the form of a thermal fuse, which will protect you if for some reason both protections do not work and the kettle constantly boils water.

Shuts off before boiling

Usually this only happens with devices that have been in operation for more than one year. This is due to loss of its properties by a bimetallic plate in the thermostat, which over time begins to respond to a lower temperature than planned. To correct the situation, you can try to temporarily bend the contacts at the plate. A the best solution The thermal switch will be replaced.

The fact that the thermopot has stopped boiling water may be to blame banal scale. As it settles in a thick layer on the heating element, it reduces its thermal conductivity. The heating element gradually begins to overheat. At a certain point, the thermostat sees this as a fire threat and opens electrical circuit moments before the water boils. You can get rid of scale on heating elements by simply boiling the solution citric acid. If this does not help, you will have to disconnect the heater and clean it with a knife.

Important! The thermopot may also not boil water due to a leak in the flask. Even a few drops of liquid can cause overheating. The search for cracks is carried out visually, and it is more reliable to eliminate them in a workshop.

Other causes of breakdowns may be bad contacts. In this case, you should check all connections to the wires of the heating element and thermal switch. If necessary, the contacts are resoldered.

Water supply button does not work

If the water supply button does not work, there may be several reasons. First of all, this could happen due to blockage in the system. Garbage most often consists of scale particles that settle on the walls of tubes and hoses, gradually reducing their clearance. This ultimately leads to the pump not pumping water.

For descaling You also need to use citric acid or vinegar by boiling water with them in the apparatus. In the case of insoluble debris, you will have to complete disassembly pump and the entire water system. To do this, you need to disconnect all the hoses and blow them out. The pump itself should be disassembled as follows:

disconnect it from the device body;
unscrew the impeller and clean the scale from it;
remove dirt from the magnet.

Advice! If after cleaning the pump still does not pump, this may mean that the winding on the motor has burned out. And it is better and more reliable to fix such breakdowns in the service.

The liquid filling button does not work even if bad contacts on the key itself or at the junction of the wires with the electric pump. To eliminate it, you need to check the entire circuit for breaks. If the second heating element fails, voltage is no longer supplied to the electric pump motor.

Important! If the thermopot has only one electric pump and the water supply does not work, then first of all you need to check the serviceability of the outlet and the presence of electricity in the house.

Doesn't heat water when the light is on

When the device does not heat water when the indicator is on, the first thing to do is check the heating element. But if the heater is working properly, then the reason may lie in the electrical circuit. That is, the thermopot does not heat the water, but the light comes on if there is a fuse in the circuit after the indicator that has blown. To fix the problem, the faulty part must be replaced.

Other faults

If the thermal kettle operates for a long time or incorrectly, other problems may occur.

Reboil doesn't work- the reason must be sought in the additional heater and control module.
There is no main boil, whereas the re-boil button works– The thermostat should be checked.
The thermopot only works for heating, but does not boil - the culprit is a burnt-out main heating element.

Prevention

In order for the thermal kettle to work for many years and to be constantly in good condition, preventive maintenance should be carried out regularly.

Bimonthly boil citric acid solution or vinegar. After this, rinse the flask thoroughly under running water.
Once every six months is preferable disassemble the device to remove all internal debris and mechanically clean out sediment that the acid could not cope with. Along the way, you need to check all contacts for integrity.

Advice! If the upcoming work causes uncertainty or difficulties, then you can watch the corresponding video or use the services of a qualified craftsman.

The thermopot will serve for many years without serious disruptions in operation when used according to the instructions, careful handling and periodic maintenance.

The most reliable thermopots

Thermopot Kitfort KT-2504 on Yandex Market

Thermopot Kitfort KT-2503 on Yandex Market

Thermopot Polaris PWP 5010 on Yandex Market

Thermopot Great Rivers Tea-8 on Yandex Market

Thermopot Kitfort KT-2502 on Yandex Market

Dmitry Ivanov: Hello. There is such a problem. Thermopot After it was filled with water TO LEVEL and turned on, it began to boil. And then every 40-50 minutes it starts to boil again. What could it be???

first _ second: How many volts is the motor?

Vyacheslav Kablaev: I really liked the video! All in simple language and volumetric. And it’s clearer this way, even to the stupid me. Thank you! My + and subscription!

Aidar Khuzin: Hello, low pressure, what can I do? Washing didn't help(

Gray Fox: Hello, I have such a problem, the heating coil burned out, I took it apart somewhere, removed a couple of turns, twisted it, it started working, but... after boiling, the heating turns on and immediately lights up. The lock does not allow water to be poured, what is the reason?

Otto Dietrich: I press the Block button, then pour water. The pump jerks, the block button turns off. What could it be

Urzhum: Apparently the bottom of the owner's thermopot scooped up water in the sink. They turned it on without waiting for the water to dry. As a result, the transistor short circuits and fails. The instructions must be read at least once from cover to cover, there is a warning about what to avoid. Many have not had a single breakdown even after 7 years of operation. The coating peels off over time - because it is poured cold water into the hot bowl of the machine. There is zero attention to this, the mesh filter delays the delamination, it must be monitored and removed from the mesh.

Nader Ibeidou: Very useful video…..thank you very much

Tanks are not afraid of dirt.: Hello. I have a Chinese thermopot from METRO-Cash&Carry, no name, some kind for sale only in Metro. 4.2 l with electric pump. Recently, after filling the mug with boiling water, the boiling heater began to turn on for a few seconds. What could it be? Have you encountered such a defect?

Sergey: My scheme is bloated. I came up with a new one and made it https://files.icq.net/get/0ZZySij86dZ3S5mqoqfPum59f431b71ab

Vakha Patiyev: hello, I have the same problem, can it be solved, what do you think? That is, it boils but does not supply water, please look and if possible, answer [email protected] something like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkpIl6GvEyQ

Damir Akhmetov: Hello Oleg, tell me. The thermopod is a new Chinese-made model “Tiffany”, it has a “water supply” button. But there is no “reconnection” at all.. there is a place on the board.. but there is no button itself.. is this how life should be or what do you say? ??

MoOvik: By the way, while doing this, I changed the diodes from 1000V to 400V, the rest of the characteristics are the same, what are the consequences?

MoOvik: but I didn’t have a tester nearby, I watched you check the motor and it started and now I have a 12V power supply from the kettle))

Sony Bravia:!!! I have a similar Panasonic NC-EM40P thermopot, it stopped boiling water and only works in heating mode. I rang the contacts of the heating element at 3:30, yellow - orange are ringing, but yellow - red are not. I tried to find it in workshops, but there’s nothing at all anywhere, probably they don’t supply heating elements, now I’m racking my brains about what to do, it’s a pity to throw it away. Maybe you can tell me something?..

Mohd Rizal kamal: Hi there, can someone speak in english.. i would like to know how did you test the dynamo(pump)? …are u using battery or using electric?

Sony Bravia:!!! 5:12 Mine’s inner covering has also peeled off, and now the heating element has also burned out, I don’t know where to get it... (((

Pyotr Starygin: Hello, please tell me, the heating boils and does not turn off

Andrey Malinovsky: Can you tell me what the operating voltage is for the pump motor?

Kirill Stadnik: On the contrary, it pumps without interruption - what do you recommend?

How to repair a thermopot with your own hands

Surely, in many people’s kitchens you can find not a simple electric kettle, but a thermos or a so-called “thermal pot”.

Advantages and Disadvantages

In addition, a thermopot can save not only your time (you don’t need to wait for the water to heat up), but also electricity (you don’t have to turn on the electrical appliance every time someone in the household wants to drink hot tea or brew porridge or other food).

A large amount of liquid, four to five liters, takes longer to boil than in an electric kettle;

Causes of failure

From this video, you will learn what causes of failure of thermopots. We recommend viewing!

Vitek thermopot board

Repair of various thermopot parts

Power cord. To repair the power cord, you need to unscrew several screws to which the thermopot body is attached. There is a special block inside, and visually inspect all internal parts. We carefully separate the cord and check it with a tester; if it is faulty, we replace it;

Chip. An ordinary thermopot has two microcircuits: a power supply and a control one. We inspect them visually in order to identify swollen capacitors, burnt transistors, broken fuses, and other damage. In order to replace elements that have failed, it is necessary to use soldering; it does not restore contacts according to the methods presented. Initially, when repairing a microcircuit, you need to see if all the fuses are in place and whether they are intact. If you replace the fuse, but the thermostat also does not work, the cause of the failure consists of his electronic stuffing. Since there was a short circuit in it;

Capacitor. It is much easier to deal with a broken capacitor. Since they swell and are easily identified by appearance.

Diodes. It is much more difficult to determine the failure of diodes; the good news is that they break quite rarely. It is necessary to sample an element and call its sides to understand whether it is in working condition;

Board tracks. In order to bring the torn tracks on the board into working condition, they are lightly cleaned with sandpaper and a top layer of varnish is made from them. The shiny surface is combined and covered with a layer of solder;

Pump. Also, each device contains a special pump for supplying water, both automatically and manually.

Repair of Panasonic thermopot does not pump water

For a Vitek thermopot, a new pump costs about $30; an experienced electrician can easily determine which part is faulty. It is also necessary to check the suitability of the thermopot pump.

Repair of heating elements

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Based on materials from the site: http://tehnosektor.ru

Do-it-yourself thermopot repair does not pump the pump.

How to repair a thermopot with your own hands.

Today, in many areas of human activity, various technological devices occupy a priority place.

The cooking industry also has many technological innovations to make our lives easier.

Surely, in many people’s kitchens you can find not a simple electric kettle, but a thermos or a so-called “thermal pot.”

This word came from English language and literally translated means a temperature pot or thermos.

Advantages and disadvantages.

The main advantage of a thermopot over electric kettle is that you can not only boil water in it, but also store it, keeping it at a high temperature, like in a thermos.

You can set the temperature yourself.

Most models are equipped with four water heating modes.

It is able to maintain the temperature you need for several hours.

The water remains hot, as if it had just boiled, but if you need it, you can choose one with lower settings.

By purchasing a thermopot, you will always have water at the required temperature, for example, for brewing a cup of tea or cooking baby food for a child.

A large amount of liquid, four to five liters, will take longer to boil than in an electric kettle.

Its cost is several times more than a simple electric kettle.

Causes of failure.

From this video, you will learn what causes of failure of thermopots. We recommend viewing.

Despite the fact that such a device has excellent and robust design, they break quite often for a reason poor quality their electrical units.

Since the cost of a new kettle like this is not small, in many cases it is best to repair it yourself or by contacting a specialist and not overpay a significant amount of money to purchase a new kettle.

The main reasons why a thermopot may fail, as well as methods for eliminating them.

Lack of indication of the special thermopot control panel does not turn on.

It is necessary to check the integrity of all wires, and also check the operation of the thermal fuse and safety switch.

The thermopot's re-boil button does not execute the command and does not boil water when it is first turned on, or when water is poured into it. It is necessary to check the operation of the thermal switch located at the bottom of the tank.

The device does not work in all modes.

With this problem the electrical diagram forced boiling actually breaks such parts as a relay, a transistor or a rectifier.

Failure to operate the water supply lever. Most likely, the water supply motor or the rectifier diodes on the motor power supply circuit are faulty.

This is a list of the main thermopot malfunctions, which have a similar design.

Thermal heater board from Vitek.

Repair of various thermopot parts.

Power cord. To repair the power cord, you need to unscrew several screws to which the thermopot body is attached. There is a special block inside, and visually inspect all internal parts. We carefully separate the cord and check it with a tester; if it is faulty, we replace it.

Chip. An ordinary thermopot has two microcircuits: a power supply and a control one. We inspect them visually in order to identify swollen capacitors, burnt transistors, broken fuses, and other damage. In order to replace elements that have failed, it is necessary to use soldering; it does not restore contacts according to the methods presented. Initially, when repairing a microcircuit, you need to see if all the fuses are in place and whether they are intact. If you replace the fuse, but the thermostat also does not work, the cause of the failure consists in its electronic filling. Because there was a short circuit in it.

Capacitor. It is much easier to deal with a broken capacitor. Since they swell and are easily identified by appearance. Diodes. It is much more difficult to determine the failure of diodes; the good news is that they break quite rarely. It is necessary to sample the element and call its sides to understand whether it is in working condition.

Pump. Also, each device contains a special pump for supplying water, both automatically and manually. For a Vitek thermopot, a new pump costs about $30; an experienced electrician can easily determine which part is faulty. It is also necessary to check the suitability of the thermopot pump.

Repair of heating elements.

If heating elements break down, in almost all cases they must be replaced.

New heating elements start at $40.

The standard device contains several thermal switches.

One is designed to control water parameters, and the second serves to protect against turning on the thermopot if there is no water in it.

The thermal switch works in such a way that the surface of the tank and the flange are in contact.

To improve contact, a special lubricant is used, similar to that used in personal computers.

When a certain temperature of the switch is reached, its contacts close; as soon as the temperature decreases, their conductivity is restored.

These thermopot components can be easily found, since their description is written on the body and marked accordingly.

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Here. you can find a description of the portable gas heater for a tent.

But most often the manufacturer also adds an additional temperature fuse; it represents a small cylindrical part, which fits tightly to the wall on the bike.

It works exactly the same as a regular thermal switch.

In order to check the operation of the metal contact, it is necessary to perform a dial test by first making the working contacts short-circuited from the thermopot.

Repair tips.

The internal filling of most thermopots is slightly different from each other.

And the simplest models are easy to repair yourself.

Repair of the Vitek thermopot can be carried out according to standard schemes.

To repair this device, on our own it is necessary to soberly evaluate your knowledge and experience.

And do not try to solder microchips with an unsuitable soldering iron that require a hot air gun.

First you need to know the basic techniques for working with electrical components, which often do not tolerate static electricity and high temperatures.

In order to make repairs, you will need tweezers, a tester, a screwdriver with a voltage indicator, as well as a soldering iron and other tools.

How to repair a thermopot with your own hands.

All thermos-heaters have a similar design and operating principle, differing only in additional functions, as well as in the material of manufacture. The working parts of the thermopot are enclosed in a housing, and in order to repair the thermopot, it will have to be removed. Water is poured into a stainless steel tank, in the bottom of which two heating elements are built. One of them produces the main heating to boiling water, and the second only heats the water. There is also a general conclusion. Each wire is covered with ceramic protection - “beads”. This prevents the wires from coming into contact with the metal container.

A cylindrical object can be seen on the side. This is a thermopot motor (water pump) designed to supply water. In different models, the voltage drop across the motor ranges from 8 to 24 volts.

Knowing the location of all the main parts of the thermopot, identifying the problem and making repairs is much easier.

It’s even better to study the diagram to understand what is connected and what parts can be changed. In some cases, repairs do not make sense, and even specialists will not undertake them.

Let's disassemble the thermopot.

It’s worth noting right away that it’s easiest to remove the top part of the thermos-heater with your own hands. To disassemble the thermopot, you need to find and unscrew the screws located at the bottom of the device. After this, the housing can be easily removed. First you need to visually inspect the board. It happens that a crack is discovered in the solder joint, and the soldered element falls off. In this case, you should use a soldering iron to secure everything as it was.

Be sure to inspect the thermal switch located in the bottom. Its condition is checked with an ohmmeter.

Do-it-yourself thermopot repair

The working device has almost zero resistance. The non-working part must be replaced with a new one. And then the question becomes where to buy the necessary spare part. Often this can only be done through online stores.

How to fix some problems.

Let's look at what malfunctions a thermopot can have and how to fix them yourself.

The indicator panel does not turn on and the device does not work at all. In this case, you should check all wires, all connections, as well as the fuse and thermal regulator. If there are several reasons, then repairs will be more difficult to complete.

Only the reboil button works. The main first boiling is not carried out. In this case, check the temperature switch located in the bottom.

The first boiling works, but when boiling again, the thermopot does not turn on. You should inspect the circuit on the main board.

The water can only be heated; the thermopot does not boil. Most likely, the heating element has burned out or the contact has broken.

The water supply function has stopped working. There is a problem with the pump's power supply. Quite often, the additional heating coil also burns out, after which voltage is no longer supplied to the motor.

Why does the water supply in the thermopot not work?

All home appliances created to provide comfort to the user. Getting used to convenient exploitation, we become upset when any feature does not function. Quite often, the thermopot's pump does not work. As a result, water enters the cup manually. It seems that the equipment generally works, but a minor breakdown makes it difficult to use the device. Today we will figure out why the water supply in the thermopot does not work.

What to do if the pump does not pump.

Work begins with dismantling the bottom cover of the device. Usually it is attached to several bolts that need to be removed. Then you should disassemble the pump; it will be more convenient to do this if you remove the supply tube. Next you need to check the condition of the connecting tubes. Namely, are they clogged with scale? If necessary, remove them and clean them.

The next step is to remove the magnet from the engine. All parts must be thoroughly cleaned to remove scale and debris. This is best done with a napkin or cloth. When disassembling the pump and engine, do not forget to leave the gaskets intact. They will be useful when assembling the device.

After these simple steps, the thermopot should supply water again. If the problem persists, you will most likely need to replace parts.

The pump does not work and the temperature is not maintained.

If the breakdown is complex, then look for the cause of the malfunction in the heating element. Most often this indicates overheating of the heating element. In this case, work begins with dismantling the top cover. Next we perform the following steps.

Turn the thermopot over and remove the support ring. To do this you will need a screwdriver and a little effort.

3. All the insides of the thermopot are hidden under the lid. We need to remove the upper part of the equipment body.

5. The next step is to remove the heating element. It is important to proceed carefully here. The contacts can be released using a socket wrench, and the heating element tie can be released using a Phillips screwdriver.

6. All that remains is to ring the heating element, replace it and make sure it is working.

Be careful when replacing the heating element. Their size may vary depending on the model. For example, there are heating elements of 150 or 160 mm. Therefore, before purchasing, you should clarify what size is needed for your thermopot.

Questions and answers.

Thermopot is a modern household appliance to heat the water poured into it and keep it hot. The device is indispensable where you need to gradually consume hot water for a long time. But with frequent use, breakdowns are possible (for example, control systems, pumps, etc.). In this article we will look at repairing a thermopot pump with our own hands.

General thermopot device

Its capacity is usually 3-5 liters. For coffee breaks at large conferences, thermal pots with a capacity of 6, 8 and 10 liters are used. The thermopot is not much more complicated than a kettle. The main components of the device are located inside the plastic case:

Flask. Made from stainless steel or special strengthened glass. There is a heating element at the bottom of the flask. It has the shape of a spiral or is built into the bottom of the vessel. The top of the flask is closed with a sealed lid;
There is a hot water pouring unit at the front. It consists of a tube that goes down to the bottom of the flask, filters and a spout under which cups are placed;
Electric pump. This is a mini compressor that pumps water out through a spout;
Hand pump. Many models are equipped with a manual pump in addition to the electric one or as the main pump;
Power unit. This unit provides power to the electric heater, and also converts alternating mains voltage of 220 to low-voltage direct current to power the pump and control system;
Control and indication system. The electronic unit controls: allows you to set and maintain the required water temperature, unlock the pump, and controls its operation. The unit shows on the display the current operating mode of the device and the water temperature.

Advantages and disadvantages

The presence of a spout makes it possible not to tilt the device to pour water. This eliminates the risk of tip-overs and hot water spills, which can cause severe burns. Thermopot provides much more high level safer than a kettle or thermos. This makes it indispensable for use by children, the sick and the elderly. In addition, most models are equipped with a system for blocking the water supply when accidentally pressed.

Figure 1 Thermopot. General view

Water can be boiled in advance and set to maintain the desired temperature. At the same time, energy consumption is minimal. Typically, several heating modes are supported - one hour, three, six and nine hours. This way you can prepare in advance for a coffee break during a meeting or conference, and at home boil water for the whole day during the cheap tariff.

The device also has disadvantages. Boiling water takes much longer than in an ordinary teapot. If the water in the flask runs out, you will again have to wait a long time for a new portion of hot water. For conferences, in this case, they usually provide several thermopots or add hot water boiled in a regular kettle to them.

Why do you need a pump in a thermopot?

A pump, or pomp, is needed to supply water through the spout. After the lid has been sealed and the water has been heated to the required temperature, you must press the unlock button. The Lock LED turns off and the Power key can be pressed. The pump begins to pump water that flows out of the spout. As soon as the user releases the key, the pump turns off and the water supply stops. After a few seconds, the interlock is activated, again locking the motor switching circuit. The control system of advanced models includes a water level sensor. If the water in the flask runs out, the pump turns off.

Many models are equipped with backup hand pump in case of power outage. It is a corrugated tank located under the top cover of the device.

Its structure and principle of operation

An electric pump consists of an electric motor and the pump itself mounted on its operating shaft - a chamber with an impeller, inlet and outlet pipes. When the engine is turned on, the impeller begins to rotate and distill water from the inlet pipe going into the flask into the outlet pipe going to the spout. In some models, there is a filter in front of the pump that traps mechanical inclusions, such as, for example, tea leaves that have fallen into the flask. Its condition must also be checked, washed or replaced if necessary.

A hand pump is a corrugated plastic cylinder. In the list of spare parts it is listed as “ air pump" This pump only works when the lid of the thermopot is closed, when the flask is a sealed volume. When you press the large button on the lid, the cylinder contracts and forces air into the top of the flask. Overpressure displaces a portion of water through the nozzles into the spout. When the manual feed button is released, the elasticity of the cylinder and the pressure in the flask return the manual pump to its original position. The pump is ready for the next cycle.

Causes of electric pump breakdowns

Important! Before you start troubleshooting, you need to take care of your safety. When disassembling the device, it should be unplugged and the hot water should be drained.

Common causes of malfunctions are as follows:

Control system malfunction.
The thermopot pump does not work.
The impeller chamber is dirty.

If - the problem is not necessarily in the pump. Before disassembling the assembly, you need to make sure that sufficient voltage is supplied to the motor contacts. This can be done with a tester (multimeter). There is another option. The motor contacts are supplied with a constant voltage of 12 volts from another source, such as a car battery. If the engine starts to rotate, there is a problem in the control system, and you need to further diagnose it.

If the device does not have a standby heating function, you should check the condition of the power supply rectifier diodes.

If there is such a function, you need to check the resistance of the pilot heating coil; it could fail (burn out). The engine is powered through it.

If the engine itself is working properly, then you can carry out minor repairs to the thermopot pump yourself.

The reasons for a hand pump not working may be the following:

Violation of the integrity of the corrugated plastic cylinder.
Wear of the silicone gasket of the top cover.

These faults are detected by external inspection and do not require diagnostic tools or disassembly of the device. But to replace faulty parts, you will have to disassemble the thermal sweat cover in the first case, and the thermal sweat body in the second.

How to repair a thermopot pump with your own hands?

If the other systems are checked and it is determined that the thermopot pump is not working, then a major disassembly of the device will be necessary - the pump is hidden deep in its depths. After all the bottom parts are dismantled, you can see the pump. When the thermopot does not pump, the pump can be repaired with your own hands

Figure 2 Pump after removing the bottom. Pipes and contacts are visible (right)

The sequence of actions for disassembling the unit is as follows:

Disconnect the inlet and outlet pipes. If they are filled with scale, the pump does not pump water well. They should be cleaned, washed and blown out.
Unscrew the screws securing the electric motor housing to the pump chamber.

Figure 3 Beginning to disassemble the pump

Carefully separate the pump chamber with impeller and the motor housing. In this case, you need to treat the silicone gasket with care. If it is worn out or damaged, it must be replaced with a good one.
There may be scale in the chamber that interferes with the rotation of the impeller. It must be carefully removed with a plastic or wooden spatula. The use of sharp metal objects is not recommended as they may damage the camera body.

Figure 4 Scale in the chamber

After dismantling the impeller, the magnet recessed in the chamber body becomes visible, which is also susceptible to scale deposits. It must be cleaned with care. You can do this with a screwdriver, but it is safer to use a plastic or wooden spatula.

Figure 5 Scale prevents the impeller from rotating

Figure 6 Cleaning the magnet from dirt

After cleaning the pump parts from scale, you should carefully reassemble it in the reverse order of disassembly. Particular attention should be paid to uniform tightening of the screws securing the electric motor to the pump housing and even laying of the gasket.

After assembly, you need to perform a test run. If the pump still does not work, it will have to be replaced. The engine is manufactured non-separable and cannot be repaired.

What to do if the hand pump does not work? It is much simpler. Actually, it consists of a single part - a corrugated cylinder. If it is worn out and leaky, it stops performing its functions and pumping air into the flask.

Figure 7 Dirty hand pump

In this case, it needs to be replaced. To replace it, you will have to remove the cover of the thermopot and disassemble it. On some models, the hand pump is pressed against a top cover secured with several screws. These screws will have to be unscrewed. On other models, the cover holding the hand pump cylinder is secured with latches. They must be pressed out with a thin screwdriver, being careful. If the latches break, you will have to change the entire cover, and it costs from one and a half to two and a half thousand rubles.

Figure 8 Spare part for hand pump

The hand pump may not pump water in another case - if the silicone gasket of the thermopot lid is leaking. In this case, the air pumped by the button comes out freely, and water is not supplied through the spout. In this case, the gasket will need to be replaced. To do this you will need to disassemble the case. In some models, the gasket can be carefully lifted with a spatula or a thin screwdriver. On others you have to remove the flask.