Hello. Today I want to talk about how I made a cutting machine out of an angle grinder I didn’t need. I often have to cut pipes. Especially profile ones. Anyone who has done this knows that cutting a profile pipe straight with an angle grinder is quite difficult. This takes a lot of time - you have to use a square to draw each side at a right angle, then carefully cut one edge at a time. And yet, it happens that one side turns out to be half a millimeter shorter, and then, during welding, the thin metal of the wall in this place begins to burn due to a loose fit. Ideally, you can cut straight in just one cut. And for this you need a cutting machine.
I had an angle grinder "DWT ws-180s" that I didn't need. They gave it to me free of charge due to a malfunction - the rotor impeller came off and the angle grinder jammed. The owner wanted to throw it away and offered to give it to me for spare parts for free. I repaired the rotor, replaced the brushes and bearings.
But it turned out that I didn’t need such an angle grinder. It is very heavy and massive for the 180th lap. There is enough power there for the 230th (2200 W), but for some reason the manufacturer equipped it with protection specifically for the 180th circle. That's why it hung in my workshop for several years, unclaimed - I have a lighter "180". I was going to remake the protection for the 230th circle (then it will be useful for working on concrete, for example), but I never got around to it!)))). After all, I also have a 230...
And so the idea came to me to buy a bed for it and make a stationary cutting machine. But having examined the purchased options, I discovered that they, for the most part, do not have sufficient rigidity, and therefore accuracy! Therefore, I came to the conclusion that I need to do it myself.
What I needed:
1. The actual angle grinder.
2. Steel angle 50 by 50 and 40 by 40.
3. Trimming water pipe DU32-3.5
4. Cutting a water pipe DU-25
5. Bearing 6202 (2 pcs)
6. Support bearing.
7. M14 hairpin.
8. Profile pipes 15 by 15, 20 by 20, 25 by 25
9. Bolts and nuts M6, M8, M14.
10. Tin scraps.
So, to begin with, I decided to assemble the angle grinder mount. In purchased versions designed for various angle grinders, fastening is carried out by three long bolts with lock nuts, which affects rigidity. In addition, having secured the angle grinder in three points, it has to be positioned vertically, which slightly “steals” the cutting depth - as a rule, the gearbox housing is slightly elongated in front. Therefore, I decided to fasten it horizontally, at two points, with a tight fit of the frame to the gearbox.. The disadvantage of this fastening is that it only fits one model of angle grinder. But I decided to ignore this, figuring that if I had to replace the angle grinder, I would simply weld a new mount.))))
I cut two pieces of 50 angle:
I drilled holes in them with a diameter of 14 mm:
And screwed it to the gearbox using the handle attachment points:
At the same time, I did not have M14 bolts, and I temporarily replaced them with trimmed studs with nuts. In order to tighten and hold them, I had to cut slots for a screwdriver:
After that, I welded the corners together directly on the grinder, then removed them and welded them tightly:
Next I started making the carriage. For this I needed a piece of thick-walled 32-gauge pipe. Since I needed to cut evenly, and I didn’t have a cutting machine at hand yet, I used wide masking tape as a marking:
After that, I cut out a piece of DU-25 pipe, 20 mm shorter than 32:
Put one inside the other:
I scored on both sides on the 202nd bearing:
And tightened it with an M14 stud, using washers and nuts:
Then I cut out a piece of the corner and grabbed it to the pipe. At the same time, he burned it with an electrode outer pipe so as to weld it from the inside:
Now we need to make stands for attaching the carriage. I made them from the same corner 50. To make them the same, I tightened them with a clamp, and in this position I cut and drilled holes:
Next, I assembled and welded the entire mounting structure of the carriage:
I made the rods that will be attached to the angle grinder carriage from a thick-walled profile pipe 20 by 20. Optimal length I calculated them experimentally, laying out a diagram of the future machine from pipes and bars:
All that remains is to cut and weld everything together:
At this stage I “tried on” the grinder:
Now it's the table's turn. I made it from a sheet of steel, 4 mm thick, measuring 60 by 60 cm:
I attached the entire structure to this sheet:
I made two square frames from a 15 by 15 profile pipe, measuring 50 by 50 cm. At the same time, in the pipe, at the bends, I cut only three walls, leaving the fourth.
After that I welded it in the corners vertical racks from the same pipe, and attached my structure to the resulting parallelepiped.
At this stage, it became necessary to set a right angle between the cutting wheel and the table. As I already said, I excluded all adjustments for the sake of rigidity (read: accuracy) of the design. My plans were to simply bend the rods and then strengthen them in the desired position by welding corners to them as reinforcement. But, when I tried to bend them first with two montages... (Oooh! What an optimist I am!)))). Then with a crowbar! (The result is the same)..... I realized that there is no need to strengthen the structure!! Two thick-walled profile pipes short in length, and, moreover, welded at the ends to the corners with seams 5 cm long on each side, they give incredible rigidity! ...
I was able to bend it only by inserting a two-meter (!) pipe between them, with a cross-section of 60 by 20. (Fortunately, there is just 60 mm between the rods.
So, the vertical is set! Now I cut through the table:
After that, I widened and lengthened the slot with a small grinder. (In case of installing, for example, a circle on wood.)
By the way...Initially I had the idea to make a “2 in 1”. That is, provide for the possibility of turning the table with the grinder down in order to obtain a circular saw! And I even started to implement it. For example, I boiled, melted and cleaned the heads of all the mounting bolts on the reverse side to get a smooth circular table:
For the same reason, I made symmetrical holes for the fastening bolts with which the table is attached to the “parallelepiped”... But the euphoria from the fact that “I came up with a cool idea” passed, and I realized that I was just “fallen” and was not chasing practicality , and for “it turned out great.”))))))
But in reality I WILL NOT USE THIS!!! After all, I have a circular. And, in any case, it is better than one made from an angle grinder! In addition, when working with wood with a circular saw, it is good to place this machine next to a wood circle for trimming. Instead of turning the table over for each board...
In general, I threw away this stupid idea....
..
Next I started building a support for the workpiece. I applied the square to the circle, drew a line at a right angle, and secured a 40 by 40 stop angle along it.
After that, I unscrewed the corner and, using its holes, this time applying a 45-degree square, drilled a hole in the table.
I forgot to take a photo, but I think it’s clear here... Now, to cut it at 45, you need to remove one bolt, turn the corner and secure it in another hole.
Next stage. I started assembling the tool vise. After all, you can accurately cut only a well-fixed workpiece. I cut out a piece of pipe 20 by 20.
I inserted a piece of M14 stud inside and tightened it with nuts. At the same time, I took one long connecting nut:
I welded it.
And I processed it with a grinder, giving it the outer dimensions of the pipe:
Then I cooked some more, where there was not enough and processed it further. (did not take photos).
Then I cut out a piece of the 25 pipe (the 20 fits into it easily and quite tightly) and welded a piece of strip across it so that I could drill holes and fix it to the table. This will be the guide:
I made a hole at the edge of the stud and made a handwheel there.
Next, I attached a corner with a hole to the edge of the table and assembled the vice. I screwed the stud into the pipe with a welded nut, put a guide on it, and passed it all through the stop angle, placing a support bearing, which is fixed with a cottered nut: In short, you’ll understand from the photo:
I made the handwheel handle from a furniture bolt and put a metal tube on it.
I made a wide stop at the end. And this is how the tool vise turned out:
When the handwheel rotates, the pipe with the welded nut comes out of the guide and tightly presses the workpiece against the stop. The only inconvenience is that you need to rotate to the left.))). But more reliable than an eccentric clamp.
Next, I started making the protective casing. As I already said, the casing on the angle grinder was for the 180th circle, and I decided to use the 230th. (There is enough power. The speed is also suitable.). In addition, since I need accuracy, I will cut with thick circles (2.6 or 3 mm). Because the thinner ones wobble a little when pressed. And therefore the number of sparks will be incredible!!! Therefore, I decided to make the most closed casing and attach it directly to the frame.
First I made a template out of cardboard.
A pendulum saw is a power tool for doing wood and metal work with your own hands. The device provides fast and accurate cutting of workpieces. Many people believe that a pendulum saw and a reciprocating saw are identical units. In fact, there are certain differences between them.
The saw performs reciprocating movements during operation. The saber works exactly the same way.
A cutting pendulum electric saw is a fairly compact machine in size, where the cutting tool is a disk and is mounted vertically on a special pendulum.
The size of the device may vary depending on the model and power. The pendulum provides the ability to raise and lower cutting blade when working on metal or wood.
The assortment is extensive, which allows the buyer to choose such popular saws as Makita, Zubr, PM 400, etc.
Device Features
Drawing typical device saws
- Circular and pendulum saws have approximately the same principle of operation;
- The main difference between the devices is that with a disk cutting tool and the motor are fixed motionless, while with a pendulum device they rise and fall due to the pendulum;
- The cutting pendulum installation provides a high-precision cut at a right angle;
- Additionally, tools such as PM 400, PM 55, Interskol, Zubr, Makita, KD 300, PM 70 and other representatives of the pendulum saw segment are capable of cutting at an angle;
- Often, a cutting system for cutting wood or metal includes an abrasive disc;
- The use of appropriate disks allows you to work efficiently. To process a particular product, you simply need to replace the blade;
- The blade can also be universal, allowing you to cut all kinds of workpieces with one disc;
- A modern cutting pendulum electric saw for cutting workpieces is distinguished by the fact that the cutting blade and disk can be replaced in the shortest possible time. This is what distinguishes the leaders of the segment in the person of PM 70, PM 55, KD 300, Zubr, Makita, Interskol, PM 400, etc.;
- Each cutting tool must be equipped with protection systems. This is because the rotating cutting blade is potentially dangerous;
- By choosing the desired size of the device, you can cut workpieces at home;
- Manufacturers offer both household and industrial models.
Despite its fairly significant advantages, the pendulum cutting saw has several disadvantages.
- For sawing, you have to apply significant force, as when using a grinder.
- A cutting saw has certain restrictions on the width of the material being cut.
- The device is not very productive, so it is often used as an auxiliary equipment in factories or home workshops.
Approximate price of devices for home use- from 12 to 40 thousand rubles.
How it works
To cut materials, you need to know exactly how a pendulum-type electric saw functions.
- A pendulum saw can safely be called a circular saw. Here the circular machine is installed on a special frame;
- The machine operates from the mains;
- Factory models may be equipped with special turning circles, due to which the device is used as a miter box. This function cannot be called necessary, but sometimes its relevance is in demand;
- The electric cutting saw received its name due to the fact that the cutting blade is lowered by hand along a pendulum path onto the workpiece, and when the cutting is finished, it rises to its original position;
- Depending on what blade is used, the size and power of the device, a factory-made or home-made electric saw can cut metal, wood, tiles, porcelain, plastic, glass, etc.;
- Cutting discs are used to cut metal. They can be borrowed from an angle grinder;
- If it is wood, a circular blade is used.
Reciprocating saw
In home workshops, grinders, circular saws, pendulum saws, and reciprocating saws are widely used. They all have their own design and technical features.
So that you don’t have any problems finding the differences between a pendulum and a reciprocating saw, let’s clarify some things.
- A home reciprocating saw is great for the job;
- Like a pendulum saw, a reciprocating saw can be equipped with special blades for wood or metal, or with universal cutting tools;
- The reciprocating electric saw is distinguished by its reciprocating movements;
- The device is compact in size and can be conveniently used in a home workshop;
- The reciprocating saw is a great alternative hand hacksaw, which has certain limitations and difficulties in operation;
- The main disadvantage that a reciprocating saw has is vibration during operation. Particularly noticeable vibrations occur when working on thick wood or metal.
DIY pendulum machine
When there are various devices on the market and a completely reasonable question arises about the relevance of homemade saws.
A homemade saw usually has small size structure, shaft, using a compact attachment assembled with your own hands. You can make the device from a grinder, an electric drill, or just an electric motor.
Some manage to create a worthy alternative to Makita and Zubr saws. Wood and metal cutting homemade devices often surpasses factory models. To achieve what you want, you will need to select drawings, take a motor from an angle grinder, electric drill or other device, watch a video and photo of a manual for assembling the unit.
- First you need to take an electric motor. The first homemade installation may well be an attachment to an electric drill. Experts advise using an electric motor from a grinder for cutting in a home workshop for a pendulum saw.
- From the angle grinder engine, rotation can be transmitted to the spindle using belt drives. Perfect for these purposes homemade design based on a V-belt.
- If an attachment to an electric drill is not your option, then build a frame from metal to fix the future pendulum device. Square metal is used.
- On one side, the spindle housing is welded to the metal frame, and on the other there will be a platform for installing the grinder engine. Don't forget about the shaft size. Correctly choosing the shaft size is extremely important for the device to turn out correctly. Typically, the shaft size is indicated in the drawings, on the basis of which homemade pendulum saws are assembled.
- Be sure to make a groove in the frame necessary for the passage of the saw's rolling axis. For these purposes, again using a grinder, cut a piece of pipe.
- When welding the frame, make sure that the rolling axis, the grinder motor and the spindle are parallel.
- Consider the issue of a protective casing, which is usually made of sheet metal. A drive handle is installed on the belt casing.
A pendulum saw for metal, in fact, is a cutting machine whose tasks include: cutting pipes, profiles, metal corners, at various angles. The machine is a rigidly fixed frame, with a pendulum mechanism, which allows cutting to exactly the size and intended angle. Mainly on the market Makita tools are presented, which guarantees high quality and efficiency, but there are also products from less famous manufacturers.
Device
Pendulum feed mechanism cutting tool involves a top-down working movement, through mechanical or manual control. One of the advantages pendulum machine is also a change in the cutting angle, up to 45 degrees from the normal. The working part of the machine is a circular saw; depending on the type, the machine can be single- or double-headed, depending on the number of cutting saws.
Circular saw located on pendulum mechanism can be driven either manually by an employee or automatically.
The machine is often installed graduated dials, for additional control of cutting accuracy, for example, a Makita LC1230 machine, in this case the cutting angle is changed by turning the handle.
Advantages and disadvantages
When fully equipped, the pendulum saw is absolutely safe and comfortable to use. The dust collector collects abrasive elements and metal particles. The clamp for securing the workpiece holds the part to be sawn and prevents the blade from skewing.
Advantages of pendulum cutting machines:
Disadvantages: the only disadvantage of this type of machines is their high cost in professional performance. Yes, a pendulum saw Makita costs from 10 thousand rubles. But at the same time, Makita tools are most valued by our industrialists. Makita produces power tools and components, the same saw blades, High Quality and different prices, from household models to highly professional equipment.
Assembly saws
A special subtype of pendulum cutting machines is characterized by a simplified design and increased mobility. Assembly machines do not have a mechanism for turning the saw itself and cut the workpiece only along the normal.
The device in this case simplified as much as possible, saw, pendulum, bed. Discs for cutting metal are usually abrasive; carbide is less commonly used.
The drive on a disk, in professional cutting machines, is usually belt driven, this allows you to reduce the load on the engine and avoid sudden jerks.
Due to the lack of hard fastening the pendulum and the workpiece, when working with cutting-off assembly machines, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances:
- Use a clamp to secure the workpiece while cutting.
- At the moment of starting, the torque of the disk gives a strong push to the saw, take this into account.
- When cutting with a mounting machine, a burr is formed on the workpiece, which must subsequently be removed.
Making a pendulum machine with your own hands
To do this, it is enough to make a frame from a channel and an angle; you can use a regular circular saw as a working tool, securing it to the frame.
Open the bed, it’s quite simple to do, install two channels - paws, connecting them in pairs. Weld the base of the pendulum to them. Often, a solid metal plate 12 mm thick is used as the base; in this case, the hole for the saw blade is simply cut or drilled. Need a drilling machine.
After this, it is necessary to make cages for bearings for the pendulum; for this, it is best to contact a turning shop. After turning, welding will be required.
Also, when creating parts for the rotary machine and pendulum, you will need milling machine and drilling.
Don’t forget about casings; for their manufacture it is best to use sheet metal 0.8–1 mm thick. Cutting is done according to ready-made patterns, after which it is tacked by spot welding.
During processing and workpieces the following were used:
- Gas cutter, cutting base metal, pendulum and frame blanks.
- Screw-cutting lathe for turning fingers and clips.
- Milling machine for processing the edges of workpieces and milling part of the pendulum parts.
- Drilling machine.
- Welding transformer.
Overall it turns out that the price self-made the frame for the pendulum saw is large, the forces of an entire mechanical repair shop will be required. In some cases it's worth it, sometimes not. The price is too high.
Sometimes it's easier and more efficient to buy a ready-made tool. This will save time and money.
Cutting tool
The saw uses as a cutting tool circular saws, abrasive wheels of various diameters and seats. In this case it is necessary See the saw's operating manual; the recommended blade parameters are indicated there. Thus, the Makita LC1230 saw uses a disk with a diameter of 12, with an inch fit, 25.4 mm and a number of teeth of 60 for cutting. It could be saw blade Makita, 305x25.4x60, for example, Makita B-29393. Discs from other manufacturers that are suitable for technical specifications. Cutting is usually done with carbide-tipped discs at the ends of the disc teeth.
Exploitation
Before using the machine must be installed on a raised table or workbench, this is necessary for the comfort of its use. It is also necessary to make room for cutting, carrying material and storing workpieces.
The Makita LC1230 saw is compact, it requires a small area for installation, but do not forget about moving the material and workpieces, as a result work zone cut-off saw is a rectangle of 2x4 meters. With a material length of 2–3 meters.
Cutting with a pendulum saw is not a difficult task, but nevertheless requires attentiveness and accuracy. Yes, special danger represent sparks and hot metal particles flying from under the saw. Partially, the collar installed on the saw body saves you from them. But nevertheless, we should not forget about personal protective equipment.
— necessary tool to process this material.
Since the metal is very durable, not every saw can handle it.
The pendulum saw is popular because it gets the job done efficiently, whether you bought it from a store or homemade it. If the price of a suitable saw does not suit you, then you can make the tool yourself.
Assembling a saw with your own hands is not difficult: in the article you will learn about its main functions and how to make it.
Saw features
A homemade pendulum saw is suitable for processing any metal elements and structures, creating workpieces, etc.
Most often it is used for cutting products, because... This is precisely its key purpose.
The only negative is that the price of pendulum saws is quite high, and therefore not everyone can afford them.
However, it is possible to assemble the instrument with your own hands - it is not so easy, but quite possible.
The homemade model has the same principle of operation, which is described below.
A pendulum saw for working on metal is also called a miter saw.
This is a type of circular apparatus, it operates using electric current and is mounted on a frame.
Factory models are equipped with a special turntable, thanks to which the saw can function not only as a cutter, but also as a miter box.
If you only need the cutting function, then homemade model You don’t have to make a circle, so assembling the saw will cost you less and will be somewhat easier to do.
The name of the saw comes from its functions: during operation, it makes pendulum movements - the cutting mechanism moves alternately up and down, making cutting movements on the metal.
While the machine is operating, the cutting circle is lowered onto the workpiece, and after the work is completed, it must be raised to its original position.
If you assemble a pendulum saw, you can use it to cut not only metal workpieces, but also glass, porcelain, wood, and make tiles the size you need, etc.
However, for cutting different materials There are different tools required that the saw should be equipped with.
Makita models have a wide functional range, but a homemade model often does not have such parts and is suitable for working mainly with metal.
However, if you often work with other materials, you can make or purchase necessary equipment, to cutting saw was more functional, especially since it was not at all difficult to do.
Most of the tools you need to work with products will not cost you much: for example, to cut wood you will need a disc circular saw, and for ordinary metal processing will do a disk that previously belonged to a grinder.
Therefore, converting a saw is very simple: by replacing the blade from a machine for working with metal, you will get a machine for working with wood, etc.
Changing disks and other elements is very simple. Once you assemble the saw with your own hands, this will not be a problem for you.
The advantages of this type of saw include the ability to create a high-quality and precise cut, which is not always possible when working with other tools. However, you should not compare a saw made by yourself with tools from well-known manufacturers, for example, Makita.
An even cut is obtained due to the fact that the cutting saw has a powerful drive, as well as cutting wheel which rotates at high speed.
Another advantage is that these metal saws are safe when working with your own hands: the abrasive wheel of the device is covered with a special housing that protects from sparks and chips that may get in during operation.
Thanks to high power and the rotation speed of the wheel, the work happens faster than when using other tools, which means the energy consumption required for cutting metal will be much lower.
Finally, pendulum saws are more functional - they can handle hardware at different angles up to 45 degrees.
If you decide to buy a ready-made tool, the price will depend on several factors: firstly, the size of the product and its power.
The price is also influenced by the manufacturer, for example, Makita models are high quality, but not too cheap.
Saws designed for processing thick and large parts are very bulky and heavy.
It is very difficult to move such a tool; as a rule, it is placed in a garage or workshop, where there is a three-phase grounded outlet that is necessary for work.
Compact saws are easier to work with: they can be carried around the area or taken with you to the right place. However, they are not suitable for processing massive products. Usually they make this particular version of the tool with their own hands.
How to make a saw?
If you need a saw, but the price quoted by the seller is prohibitive, then it’s time to think about making a tool with your own hands.
A saw designed for metal work will require a more powerful electric motor, such as the Makita models, which will also be useful if you plan to cut thick trees.
In cases where a more powerful tool is required, it is best to make a pendulum frame. Pendulum variations are not only more powerful, but also very effective.
In order for the frame of the device to be stable, it is necessary to use steel rather than wooden corners for its manufacture.
The frame is the base on which all cutting and rotating mechanisms are installed, so make sure that it is strong.
Before you start assembling the saw with your own hands, look at the diagrams with its structure: you can focus, for example, on a machine from Makita, because it is a high-quality and functional device for metal processing.
Each homemade cutting saw must be mounted on some stable surface, usually a table.
It is necessary that it be properly fixed, because if it wobbles, it can not only ruin your workpiece, but also be dangerous for the master.
The tool table must be special, and it is also better to make it yourself. For the bed you can use old table from the kitchen, either metal or wooden trestles.
If you choose trestles, then they need to be connected using a board with a cross-section of 50 mm. The tabletop needs to be installed on top of the resulting base.
The tabletop can be made from metal plates 4 mm wide. You will need two of them to work. Or you can use thick beams that need to be connected with a plywood jumper.
When connecting materials, be sure to leave a gap of at least 10 mm between them.
The most important thing when working is that the edges of the plate are set parallel to each other, otherwise the miter saw will not be able to function correctly.
When attaching the tool to the tabletop, the saw should be in the center of the gap, and sheets should be located on its two sides. You need to make holes in the table into which the saw will be fixed.
After installing it, you need to secure the motor so that the miter saw can operate. If you have made a small saw, the easiest way is to attach it to the motor axle.
However, the tool is not suitable for cutting thick metal, so if you understand that low power will not be enough for your work, then immediately make a more powerful tool.
As a transmission mechanism for homemade saw You can use a spindle from a bicycle. It includes bearings and a shaft, which you will also need in your work.
You can cut the spindle off the bike using a hacksaw. You need to install a sprocket on the bicycle shaft. The best part for this is a part belonging to the D6 or D8 motor.
In order for it to fit tightly to the shaft, you need to make a bushing for the transition.
The circular saw must be attached to the spindle, however, before you do this, you need to decide on the diameter of the device.
The diameter of the bushing must also match the diameter of the other parts so that they all fit tightly together.
A plate with a thickness of at least 5 mm must also be installed on the spindle housing. The sprocket is attached to the shaft, which has a homemade saw.
The sprocket should be 2.5 times the size of the spindle.
The saw chain is put on the body last, after all other parts are correctly installed and secured.
The price of the parts that a cutting saw requires will be much lower than the price of a finished saw, for example, from Makita.
The tools you will need are:
- table;
- several plates;
- several beams and lintels;
- old bicycle spindle;
- bushing for transition;
- star;
- chain;
Some of these tools you probably already have in your garage, while others can be obtained very cheaply.
If you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to purchase a ready-made tool.
Moreover, the price of some Makita models is quite reasonable, and at the same time they have wide functionality.
Before purchasing a metal cutting saw, research what is on the market and read about the different models of tools.
It is better to choose an already proven device, for example, a Makita saw, which has long proven itself on the market. The price of both circular and pendulum saws is quite affordable for a person with an average income.
It is useful to replenish the arsenal of metal-cutting machines in a home workshop with a pendulum saw. You can fix it on a workbench, next to a bench vice in which the workpiece is clamped. The working tool of the saw is an abrasive disc. He can handle steel bars, angles, pipes, sheets and even Metlakh tiles, porcelain and glass, hardened to any hardness, and the cut surface is quite clear. If you replace the disk with a saw with small tooth, then you can saw wood, plywood or plastic, while a diamond blade will make it possible to process stones.
To secure the workpiece, it is convenient to use a rotary vice; in this case, cutting can be done at an angle, which is very convenient when preparing parts for welding.
Various attachments to the saw allow you to make shallow cuts and grooves and even turn it into a regular “circular saw”.
For such a saw you will need single phase electric motor with a power of 340 W (from an electric sharpener) or three-phase type AOL 21-2 with a power of 400 W and a rotation speed of 2800 rpm. The rotation is transmitted to the machine spindle by a V-belt type A-I018 from a GAZ-24 car.
1 - electric motor, 2 - support, 3 - tool protective casing, 4 - tool (abrasive disc), 5 - belt protective casing, 6 - A-1018 V-belt, 7 - M8X14 mm screw, 8 - drive pulley (D 16) , 9 - belt casing cover (steel), 1C - driven pulley (D 16), 11 - spacer sleeve (steel), 12 - washer (steel), 13 - pendulum feed handle, 14 - bolt M6X12 mm, 15 - screw M5 X10 mm, 16 - shaft (steel), 17 - cover (D 16), 18 - cover (D 16), 19 - sleeve (steel), 20 - washer (steel), 21 - nut (steel), 22 - ball bearing No. 203. 23 - body (steel), 24 - boss (steel), 25 - M6X8 mm screw. 26 - M8 X 16 mm screw, 27 - boss (steel), 28 - frame (steel), 20 - M6X16 mm bolt, 30 - 1/2"" pipe (steel), 31 - axle (steel), 32 - bushing (steel), 33 - washer, 34 - M10 nut, 35 - plate (steel), 36 - intermediate housing (D 16).
The basis of the saw is a square-section spinal frame, to which the spindle body is welded on one side, and on the other, a plate for installing the motor. A 1/2" pipe is passed through the groove in the frame - it is the body of the saw's swing axis. Carrying out welding work, make sure that the axis of the motor shaft, the spindle shaft and the swing axis of the saw are strictly parallel. After welding, be sure to straighten the frame, clean the welds and paint it with nitro enamel with a preliminary primer.
The belt casing and abrasive disc casing are made of 2 mm thick sheet steel. It is best to weld workpieces from the inside using a fillet weld. The belt casing is screwed directly to the engine and frame, to which the abrasive disc casing is also screwed. The drive handle is located on the removable belt housing cover.
Before assembly, fill the spindle bearings with CIATIM-221 grease. Insert felt rings soaked in liquid lubricant into the bearing grooves.
When the saw is assembled, the motor must outweigh the spindle and be located below, between the supports, otherwise, when the saw is turned on, the abrasive may hit the workpiece and crumble.
Rice. 2 Pendulum saw accessories:
A - for cutting grooves:
1 - belt drive casing, 2 - bracket, 3 - work table fixed in a vice;
B - for cutting sheet material:
1 - belt drive casing, 2 - folding table, 3 - hinge, 4, 5 - brackets.
When working on a pendulum saw, you must strictly follow safety regulations. The power cable must be protected from mechanical damage by a steel flexible hose, which can be taken from a shower hose. The electric motor, as well as the saw itself, must be reliably grounded. Secure the working tool to the shaft only with a nut with a left-hand thread. Operating a saw without safety glasses is dangerous.
If the drive belt becomes loose during operation of the device, it must be tightened, for which it is enough to lay a plate of the required thickness between the frame plate and the engine.
V. ZAYTSEV, design engineer
"Modelist-Constructor" 1985, No. 12
