Construction of a country house from timber. Construction of a country house from timber

I spent a long time studying the Internet on the subject of how to build an inexpensive warm house. The most tempting were wooden ones, the kind they build in Western Europe and Canada for summer living. Having studied the question, it turned out that such houses are perfect for our winter. But here a dilemma arose: which house is better made of timber or frame? After reading the Internet, I called a friend from Canada, he is engaged in the construction of frame houses from timber, and received clear advice - I need to build a wooden frame house from timber. It's cheap, fast and economical. The choice was made, the same friend helped develop the project, all I had to do was draw up an estimate, and construction began at the end of August.

I’ll start in order: at the beginning of the summer of 2010, I purchased a plot of land and had a desire to build a house and move to a quiet suburb. I want to say in advance that the construction was delayed and the foundation poured in October 2010 stood for almost two years and only in the summer of 2012 we continued work. Below are photographs of a timber frame house taken during the work process.

Project of a timber frame house

Having already left half of the construction behind, I can say with confidence that it is easier to calculate all the dimensions in advance and foresee the occurrence of possible problems on paper, without further suffering on the construction site by adjusting materials. And there is no difficulty in finding finished project frame house made of timber on the Internet, something special can be ordered from the appropriate organization. Don’t save money, it will come back to you with no problems at the construction site and a beautiful frame country house made of timber.

First floor layout:

Second floor:

This is what the dacha plot looks like before construction begins. Everything on it is the same as on our project of a frame house made of timber. Markings were made for the place where the water supply system enters the house and the place where the sewer system leads to our septic tank. Very important point Don’t forget to do all this at once and the price of a timber frame house will be much lower when the work is carried out before the foundation is poured.

We have a strip house 600 mm deep and 300 mm wide, the house is light and does not carry the same load on the foundation as a brick one, so it could be done on stilts - it is a little cheaper, but I decided not to save money on making a strip house, it is more reliable.

This is what blocks of 12 mm reinforcement look like - the basis of our foundation.

12 mm reinforcement was taken as the basis. Triangular blocks were assembled from it and filled with concrete to ground level.

We pour concrete into the formwork.

The next stage is laying concrete blocks, making three rows.

Passages between our rooms and ventilation passages, or vents, I think that’s what they are called scientifically, begin to emerge. This is how frame houses are built from timber with your own hands.

The costs at this stage of construction of our frame house are:

Septic tank, overflow, two wells with four rings each (material and work). 29,000 rubles.

Installation of sewerage from the house to the septic tank (material and work). 6500 rubles

Foundation materials (rebar, concrete, blocks, cement and sand). 70,000 rubles.

Work on pouring the foundation. 70,000 rubles.

At the first stage it was spent. 175,500 rubles.

Prices 2010.

DIY timber frame house, continued 2012, June

After a long break, I am starting again to build a country frame house from timber, fortunately the foundation has managed to stand, almost two years have passed. I purchased timber and purchased 20 cubic meters of lumber; according to the estimate, this should have been enough to build a frame without rafters. very carefully, for this I even had to buy a device to measure the moisture content of wood. It’s not so easy to buy a normal tree in our forest-rich country. The quality of the wood leaves much to be desired, this applies to both humidity and discrepancies in size. So we had to visit a huge number of warehouses and check literally every one for humidity, but in the end, 20 cubic meters of dry wood were purchased.

So, the foundation was left in this condition for a year and a half, and we continue the construction of a turnkey timber frame house.

The first day.

We proceed to the bottom trim, coat the top of the foundation with bitumen mastic - the sticky thing doesn’t really get dirty, then you can’t wash it off and cover it with TechnoNIKOL waterproofing. In the future, this should prevent rotting of the wooden base of the prefabricated timber frame house.

Almost 20 cubic meters of lumber were purchased, which, according to calculations, should have been enough for the frame of the box, without rafters.

Let's start with the bottom trim.

The lower frame is supplied with timber 200/200 for external walls and 200/100 for internal partitions.

Before laying the entire beam on the strapping, we coat it with Velux fire-bioprotectant; we also had one can of Senezh, that was also wasted.

Total for lubrication bottom trim 15 liters of fire and bioprotection were used.

This is what building a frame house from timber with your own hands looks like, the end of the first day of work.

Second day.
We install the first rack.

We place 200/200 timber on the main (corner) posts.

Second and third pillars.

All posts of a frame country house made of timber are 200/200 mm.

A little more and the frame of the walls on the first floor is ready.

On the intermediate walls there are 100/200 timber, in 1 meter increments, depending on the location of the windows and internal walls there are larger or smaller gaps.

We connect the timber into corners 105/90 mm.

The supports for the floor joists on the first and second floors are 185/50 brackets, 2 mm thick, galvanized steel.

We install the 200/200 racks on dowels, which are sawn from rake cuttings.

Result of the third day: construction - the frame of the first floor is 70% ready

We spent the entire fourth day working on the bay window and finishing it.

They put a partition in the corridor and a partition between the walls of two rooms on the first floor.

About a third of the second floor was covered with logs.

Well, a few more photos of a frame house made of timber, components and general views:

Gradually we replace some of the temporary jibs with permanent ones.

Connection of timber on a bay window.

The following fasteners were purchased and have not yet been completely used up:

Nails 80, 100, 150 and 200 mm, 10 kg of each type.

Yellow self-tapping screws 5/50 11 kg.

Reinforced corners 105/105/90 350 pieces.

There are about 200 staples for the joists (aka beam supports).
They are available for 50th board and 100th timber, we use 10th board in the bay window area, there is a larger opening there and the joists are not made from 50/200 boards, but from 100/200 timber.

The fifth day is ahead...

It’s already clear that 2 200/200 beams and one cube of 50/200 board were missing, I’ll go buy more tomorrow. What will be the price of a frame house made of timber, additional costs appear.

Which house is better made of timber or frame?

I think I wasn’t the only one wondering which house is better made of timber or frame. No specialist can answer this question unequivocally; I decided for myself that a house is built to suit the specific needs and capabilities of a person. Definitely, a huge advantage of a frame house is its price, speed of construction and savings on heating. A wooden frame house made from timber also has its advantages - speed of construction and relative cheapness. True, a truly warm house will still be more expensive than a frame house, because the thermal conductivity of wood is three times less basalt wool or other modern insulation materials. The cost of a turnkey frame house is much less than a similar one made of timber, but it would be useful to pay attention to compliance with all construction standards. Considering the current situation in the construction market, I observe a blatant non-compliance with all the standards of the technical process, this is both non-compliance with GOSTs regarding wood moisture content, and the use of wood that does not correspond to its intended purpose. OSB boards. Only one conclusion arises - look for a bona fide contractor or build it yourself.

My opinion on the issue of choosing a house, be it brick, frame or made of timber, any house in which it is comfortable to live and has enough money to maintain it can be considered good.

Day five.

I bought the missing timber.
What's the problem when buying timber from different places - the size varies noticeably. In the first purchase, the timber was 190/190, now it is exactly 200/200.
There will be a lot of leveling later when finishing the interior...

So today we made the door openings.

All the windows of the frame house made of timber were cut off in height. True, for some reason it was a 50/200 mm board instead of a 100/200 mm timber. I'll find out tomorrow.

Racks have been installed in the hallway.
Beam 100/150 mm.
The corridor is wide, almost 3 meters. On the second floor, part of the corridor will turn into a room.

They laid joists for the second floor.
Again, the board is 50/200. In the bay window area 100/200 mm.
In the background you can see the window opening in the bathroom.

They installed jibs on the corner posts in the rooms.

And logs in the corridor area.

Total: frame of the first floor and 2 floors, completed in 5 working days.

So, day 6.

We go out to the second floor. The 150/25 board, which is actually lathing, was lifted from the first floor to the second. Because you have to walk on something.
Then it will move to the third floor and then to the roof and become, in fact, a sheathing. We install 200/200 pillars on the second floor.

Let's continue...

We cover the piping of the second floor.

And a few photos directly from the second floor.

Closely placed racks are load-bearing (the rack above the rack and additional racks that will contain windows)

Upper frame of the second floor.

That's it, the sixth day of construction is completed...

Frame house made of timber photo of the second floor

In the photographs you can see the almost completely finished frame of the house. On the seventh and eighth days it rained for half a day, the pace of construction has slowed down, but nevertheless we are moving. I think in another day the roof will be ready.

We placed racks in the corridor:

Photo of a frame house made of timber, this is what the partitions between rooms look like.

Part of the room with a bay window:

The bay window itself has not yet been connected, there is a lot of fuss with it, I can tell right away.
For those who have a bay window in their project, please note that assembling its frame is a creative activity but can increase the price of a frame house made of timber...
Although this is not a reason to refuse it. We lay the floor joists between the second floor and the attic.

First, we drill a bracket to the joist using 5/50 self-tapping screws (yellow!):

And we put it in a pre-marked place.
Since our attic is not residential, no one will walk in it much, we use a 50/10 mm board here.
The length of the opening is 3.40 meters. The lag laying step is 60 cm.

And yet they laid out two spans:

We assembled the bay window frame:

Day 9 of building a frame house from timber with your own hands.
We lost at least 1 day due to rain.

Today I bought another cube of wood, there wasn’t enough for racks and joists.

I've run out of mounting brackets and 100 nails, I'll go shopping tomorrow. By the way, a reinforced fastening angle, 105/105/90, in our Shchelkovo region costs no less than 40 rubles. per piece, from the manufacturer, 17 rubles.
I have to go to Mytishchi tomorrow, it’s not a budget overpayment.

We cover the frame with fire-bioprotection with a tinting effect.
By the way, I really don’t recommend taking a colorless one - you’ll be tortured to remember where you painted it and where you didn’t.

We go out onto the roof, lay the same 25/150 board on the floor, which will then be used for the sheathing.

We cover all the rafter boards, counter-battens and sheathings with fire and biological protection on the ground - it’s easier and costs less.
2 hours - and the first rafters are standing :)

We continue - the ridge and a couple more rafters:

Well, and a traditional wreath on the first rafter.

Work continues on the rafter system:

And immediately we sew up the pediment with a 25/150 board

And we proceed to covering the house with the same inch:

Your daughter will grow up and say, “Remember, dad, how I helped you build your house?” :)

On the second floor this happens using a three-section staircase with a total length of 6.80 meters.

In the meantime, the rafters were covered with waterproofing and lathing was laid:

This is what the house looks like in August 2012.
We are waiting for metal tiles and windows.

The greenish color is not a glitch of your monitor, it is the treatment of the boards with a bioprotective preparation.

We wrap the house in a windproof membrane. We use Tyvek Housewarp.

In the meantime, the roof was delivered.

Grand Line, velor, color RR-32

Ridge, wide lower valleys, upper valley overlays, cornice strips:

The weather is certainly brutal... Rain alternates with frosts...

The installation of the roof took 10 days.

Here is the result:

Price of a timber frame house at the time of construction

So, from timber:

Prices 2010:

Overflow septic tank, consisting of two wells with 4 rings each - RUB 29,000. along with work.

Laying a sewer pipe from the house to the septic tank - 6,500 rubles. (work and the pipe itself).

Materials for the foundation (concrete, reinforcement, blocks, sand and cement) - RUB 70,000.

Foundation work - 70,000 rubles.

Zero cycle total: RUB 175,500.

Prices for 2012:

Construction of walls, rafter system, roofing and its installation - 670,000 rubles.

Which house is better made of timber or frame - your own, of course.

We begin the 2013 construction season with the order and installation of windows, approximately at the beginning of February.

After purchase suburban area For a summer residence, the question of how to build a country house with your own hands definitely becomes relevant. Well, building it yourself is quite possible, unless, of course, you are planning a huge “palace” that requires the involvement of construction equipment and a team of professionals.

Usually compact buildings are chosen for a dacha, but, nevertheless, the house must have everything necessary for rest - rooms, kitchen, veranda. The latter will become a favorite place for an evening pastime all family. It is very important to make the country house cozy and comfortable, so you need to think through all the nuances of its arrangement.

The optimal material for a country house building is wood, and the principle of construction is a frame structure.

Of course, the first thing that will need to be done is to decide on the location and size of the building, draw up a project, and plan further work.

Proe ct of a small country house

The size of the future house largely depends on the area of ​​the summer cottage, the number of family members and the financial capabilities of the owners. If you plan correctly, draw up a successful project and choose inexpensive but high-quality material for construction, you can save space, money and work time.

Most often, a country house has a size of 5.0 × 6.0 or 4.0 × 6.0 m. Larger buildings are erected much less frequently, and mainly in cases where they are planned to be used year-round. But this, most likely, will not be a country house, but a full-fledged country house.

The layout of the house may have to be carried out on the basis of requirements that can be established by the board of the gardening association, therefore, when purchasing, you need to find out about such nuances in advance. The following distances are most often required:

• The house must be installed at a distance of 3 meters from the border of the neighboring plot, and from the fence separating the plot from the general passage (street) - 5 meters.
• In order to ensure fire safety, a stone house is placed at a distance of at least six meters from another stone building, and ten meters from a wooden one. If the house is wooden, then it should be installed at a distance of no closer than 15 meters from another wooden building.
• So that the house does not block neighboring buildings from sunlight, if it is placed on the eastern, southern or western side of the site, it is located at a distance from another residential building at least equal to its height.

Usually for installation country house the highest is selected place in the area where Water will not collect when snow melts or from heavy rains. Increased humidity under the house will never benefit any building material, but it will always have a negative impact on the overall strength and durability of the structure.

Most often, the following construction technologies are chosen for the construction of country houses: frame-panel construction, log houses, walls made of blocks or bricks.

For summer cottages, designs of one-story houses with closed or open verandas or terraces are predominantly chosen. Often the structure has attic space, used for storing garden tools and other things that seem unnecessary in everyday use, but which can always be useful in the country. However, it also happens that in some projects there are no attic floor beams at all, and then the roof slopes simultaneously serve as a ceiling.

If the family is large, and the area of ​​the plot is not as large as we would like, then you can plan a two-story house that takes up very little space at the base. In this case, the first floor can be used as a living room, terrace and kitchen, and on the second floor you can arrange cozy sleeping areas for the whole family.

Not at all necessary in a dacha building, build a full second floor, since its role can be perfectly fulfilled by an attic superstructure. Finishing her off natural materials, you can create a wonderful healthy country atmosphere there.

Country houses are mainly used in the warm season, starting with the arrival of spring and ending in autumn. Therefore, they do not require enhanced insulation of walls and roofs, but devices for heating the premises must still be provided - in case of cold nights or drops in temperature during unstable weather. Typically, electrical appliances are used as heaters, for example, convectors or infrared film emitters, but sometimes owners even prefer to install fireplaces or cast iron heating and cooking stoves.

By the way, if you plan to build a real fireplace or brick oven, then they must be included in the draft being compiled.

There are also ready-made options country houses, sold complete in disassembled form, which just need to be delivered to the site and assembled. Any such set of parts must be accompanied by detailed instructions, which outline the procedure for carrying out work, basic technological methods and connection diagrams of individual elements and assemblies.

For the owner of the site, who has basic skills construction work, it won’t be too difficult to assemble such a country house yourself. The main advantage of this option is that the kit often already includes everything necessary for the building’s electrical network, its ventilation system, and even for installing the water supply.

Video: a small, neat country house that lives up to its name

What type of house to choose?

Having decided on the approximate plan of the future house, you need to choose the material for its construction. This choice will determine not only the appearance of the building itself, but also the comfort of staying in it, as well as the costs of its construction.

• The traditional material for a country house is wood, which will create a favorable microclimate in it, filling it with the smells of the forest. Wooden house can be erected using a frame method, from timber or logs. The disadvantage of wooden buildings is considered to be the high fire hazard of the material.

However, wooden houses have always been built, and many of them have stood for centuries. Today, there are special fire-retardant impregnations on sale that significantly reduce the risk of fire in wooden buildings. And in general - the most important thing here is not the material, but the human factor - it is people’s neglect of basic fire safety requirements that in the overwhelming majority of cases becomes the cause of fire.

• Construction brick building will cost much more, but it can be called with greater justification a full-fledged home, which can be used not only in the summer, but also, if necessary, in the winter, if you install a stove in it. Brick buildings are much less susceptible to fire and, with high-quality masonry, will last a very long time. Their disadvantages include a more complex and lengthy construction process, requiring special skills, and the high price of materials.

• Very often when building a country house they are used different materials. For example, a house is built from wood, but on a foundation made of concrete, brick or blocks.

This option can be called optimal, since a foundation made of moisture-resistant materials will create optimal conditions for the construction of walls made of wood, thus it will become a reliable foundation for the house.

It is this last option that is worth considering, since it is the most popular of all types of country houses.

Stages of construction of a country house

Materials for building a country house

If you don’t want to bother with calculations, then it’s better to purchase a prefabricated ready-made model of a house that has a certain area, for which you only need to prepare a place.

In all other cases, you will need to purchase building materials. Their type, size, volume, total number - all depending on the size of the planned building, which is determined by the project.

Prices different kinds timber

Foundation material

For any type of foundation you will need the following materials:

— sand, crushed stone, cement;

- third-grade board and timber for formwork;

- brick or concrete blocks;

— waterproofing material (roofing felt);

— expanded clay of the middle fraction.

Wall and roof material

Since wood was chosen for the construction of the walls, other materials will be selected based on this:

- bars and boards different sizes, depending on design parameters;

- fastening elements - nails, self-tapping screws, bolts, studs;

- corners of different configurations, metal plates - for fastening nodes;

— vapor barrier film;

— insulation — mineral wool, ecowool or expanded clay;

— to cover the roof, it is better to choose a lightweight material — ondulin or corrugated sheeting.

Once the installation location for the future house has been determined and the materials have been purchased, you can proceed to laying out the foundation. True, first you will have to decide on its type.

Country house foundation

Even when erecting such a small and light building as a wooden country house, you cannot do without a foundation. In this case, one of two types is ideal for these purposes - a columnar and strip foundation. Which one to choose depends on the preferences of the builder.

• A column foundation will be a less expensive option, as it will allow you to seriously save on building materials. In addition, such a foundation can be completed independently, without outside help, which will also save some money.

You can find out in detail how to build it correctly by following this link to the corresponding page of our portal.

• To create a strip foundation you will need not only large quantity materials, but also a fairly long period. This is not surprising - a trench will need to be dug along the entire perimeter of the future house, waterproof it, install a reinforcement structure, build formwork and fill the foundation pit with concrete. And after that, whether you like it or not, it will take another month until the filled tape completely hardens and gains brand strength.

However, strip foundations are still very popular among individual developers. This option is convenient because it allows you to make a basement under the house, however, to do this, the foundation walls will have to be raised above the soil surface by 700 ÷ 800 mm.

is described in detail in the article, which can be found on our portal by following the link provided. If a columnar foundation is selected, then it is recommended to remove the top layer of soil by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm from the site, which will be located under the house and around it by 500 ÷ 600 mm. Then pour a 30 ÷ 40 mm layer of sand into the resulting pit, which should be compacted. A layer is laid on top of the sand cushion mid-fraction

Fine expanded clay is an excellent rodent repellent To protect the house from the penetration of large rodents or other uninvited guests from the animal world, it is advisable to close the space under the house metal mesh

with cells no larger than 10 mm.

A frame house can be placed on either a columnar or strip foundation. Construction always starts from the foundation, which must be reliably waterproofed two or three layers of laid roofing material.

• If the project includes a veranda, you must immediately separate its zone, over which a roof will be erected, but there will be no solid walls. To support the roof over the veranda, you can use the racks of the general wall frame. Another option - veranda will be attached to the house separately.
• Without exception, all wooden workpieces must be treated with antiseptic compounds and fire retardants. These impregnations will increase the resistance of wood to fire, to decay, will prevent the appearance of insect nests or colonies of microflora representatives - mold or fungus.

• After the workpieces have received proper preparation and have completely dried, during construction, a lower frame (crown) is first made, which will be laid on the foundation and will subsequently be used to install the floor.

In order for the floor to be reliable, it is necessary to use high-quality timber of the required cross-section for the frame. If funds allow, it is better to choose wooden elements not according to the “lower limit” of dimensions, but by putting a certain margin in their cross-section.

The table shows the optimal dimensions of timber for a frame house:

• The frame support beams are mounted on crown bars located along the perimeter of the foundation, at a distance of 600 ÷ 700 mm from each other. They are secured using corners or by inserting. If the elements are large in cross-section, they can additionally be fastened with metal brackets.

• When the lower frame with support beams is ready, the wall frames are made. They can be assembled separately, and then lifted and secured to the frame strapping bars when finished.

Another option is to lift the frame directly into place. For example, if a house is being built independently, without helpers, then it will be very difficult to lift the finished frame from the tent alone to the height of the frame, install it evenly and temporarily fix it until it is finally secured. This means that each of the bars will have to be placed separately.

• The size of the bars for the wall frame posts must be at least 100x100 mm, but it can also be mounted from boards with a cross-section of at least 50x150 mm.

The bars are secured to the lower frame using powerful corners that can hold them in a vertical position. It is best to use self-tapping screws rather than nails for fastening - the difference in price is not so significant, but the quality and reliability of the assembly is incomparably higher.

• When installing vertical racks, you need to immediately mark the location of the openings for windows and doors. It is best to leave the area where they are to be installed free in the frame, and install the part of the wall with the window opening separately.

Then, when the upper strapping block is installed and secured to all other vertical posts, the area with the window opening is secured to the space left for it.

• All four walls are assembled in the same way. At the corners, the side posts are fastened together with corners, or instead of two separate ones, one common corner post is mounted. It is recommended to support it with diagonal struts on both sides - they will add rigidity to the entire wall structure.

• The doorway is installed in the frame immediately. It is reinforced with an additional rack, since a door suspended on hinges has a certain weight, which must be calmly supported by both the reinforced opening and the entire wall frame.

• If you plan to sheathe the frame from the outside with clapboard, then this is the next step. The sheathing will give the structure additional rigidity, which will allow the installation of the attic floor to continue and

Installation of the floor can be carried out immediately after the outer wall cladding, but only if the roof will be covered on the same day. It is highly undesirable for your freshly laid flooring to get wet if it rains unexpectedly at night. Therefore, it is better to first resolve the issue with the roof, and then calmly deal with all other construction activities inside the house.

Roof construction and roofing

Types of rafter systems

A few words need to be said about the types of rafter systems, since, moving on to the construction of the roof, it is necessary to have a general idea about this, to know which design is best to choose.

There are two types of rafter systems - hanging and layered.

Hanging system

The hanging rafter system is distinguished by the fact that it is installed only on external load-bearing walls ah and has no other supports. It is perfect for erecting over a small country house building. In order to lighten the load on the wooden walls and on the foundation, hanging rafters are fastened with ties.

The hanging structure itself consists of a transverse beam, which also performs an overlapping function, and can simultaneously serve as a frame for lining the ceiling, as well as rafter legs that form the roof slopes.

Layered system

A layered system is installed if the house, in addition to external walls, has internal permanent partitions that will become additional support points. This scheme can also be used when constructing the roof of a country house, if it has a large area and its rooms are separated by walls built on the foundation.

When installing this system, the load on the load-bearing side walls becomes weaker, so it will be possible to use fewer retaining elements. It is perfect for attic structures that will be used as living quarters.

Floor beams

The beams are laid exactly above the vertical posts of the wall frame. In order for them to fit tightly on the upper strapping belt, grooves are cut out at their edges. The size of the grooves can be calculated based on the formula shown in the figure.

The beams are secured to the frame structure of the walls using nails or self-tapping screws, and in addition they are sometimes fixed on both sides with metal corners.

Having completed the installation of the ceiling beams, you can proceed to building the roof truss system. For safety reasons, temporary plank flooring is laid on the floor beams to ensure comfortable movement along the attic plane during installation of the rafters.

Installation of the rafter system

The roof truss system can be mounted using different sequences of fastening its elements:

• First option. It is necessary to fasten the outer pairs of rafter legs on the ground, then lift them onto the harness and install them ready-made on the gable walls of the house. And then connect them with a ridge beam, and mount the remaining pairs of rafters on it.
• Second option. To begin, install the middle posts along the gables, then fasten them with a ridge beam or board, onto which the rafters are then attached.
• Third option. In this case, pairs of rafter legs in their upper part are attached to each other with a ridge plate, and their lower side is fixed to the wall frame, which in this embodiment will act as a mauerlat.

The cross-section of beams or logs used for rafter legs must be strictly maintained - depending on the rafter length between two support points, and depending on the step between adjacent pairs of rafters

It should be noted that the attachment point for the rafters in its lower part will depend on the angle at which they are fastened to the ridge and how long they are.

If the rafter is long enough and protrudes beyond the load-bearing walls, then a notch is cut out on it, with which it will be installed on the strapping beam (). An example of such a notch is shown in the picture:

If the rafter ends at the edge of the load-bearing wall, then its lower edge is cut at a right angle to the Mauerlat, and the leg itself can be fixed to it using a special fastening plate, a sliding support, an angle, a bracket, nails or long screws.

If the house is very small, then after securing the rafters to the frame, tying them with ridge beams or boards, you most likely will not have to install additional supporting elements.

Detailed information about the exact details can be obtained from a special publication on our portal by following the recommended link:

For installation of additional reinforcing elements of the rafter system, the material can be selected in accordance with the recommendations indicated in the table:

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Rafter fasteners

Roofing system

After the rafters and additional elements will form the roof slopes, you can proceed to the installation of the subsystem for the roof deck.

• The first thing that needs to be done on the outside of the roof, after installing the rafters, is to lay a vapor barrier film, securing it first with staples and then with counter-lattice strips on the rafters.

The film is laid perpendicular to the rafters, starting from the lower eaves of the roof. The overlap between two adjacent strips must be at least 200 mm.

• The main batten is mounted perpendicular to the counter-lattice, onto which the roofing material will be attached. The installation step of the guides depends on the type and size of the sheets of roofing material.

If you choose to cover the roof soft roof, then instead of sheathing slats, the slopes are covered completely - with plywood, and then with waterproofing sheets of roofing material, which is overlapped by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm and glued together with bitumen mastic. Another option is to use soft bitumen decorative tiles, which are laid using a similar technology.

• For wooden houses the following are most often used: roofing materials(depending on the steepness of the roof slope).
  

• The selected roofing material is laid and secured onto the prepared base. The work starts from the cornice, and if the first row is laid from right to left, then all other rows are installed according to the same pattern.

Some types of roofing materials have a strictly specified installation pattern in direction, which cannot be changed. This must be indicated in the instructions supplied with them.

Also, for any type of sheet roofing material, the amount of overlap in the direction of the slope (usually 150 ÷ ​​200 mm) and the number of waves (relief protrusions) in the horizontal direction along the roof are determined.

• Almost all roofing materials are secured to the sheathing using special nails or self-tapping screws with waterproofing gaskets.

• It is very important to correctly select and secure the ridge elements of the roof, otherwise it will leak at the first rain. Typically, the ridge element is selected from the same material as the covering of the roof slopes.
• Next comes finishing eaves overhang roofs - this can be done with wooden or plastic lining. Sometimes special plastic elements - soffits - are used for these purposes.

• Then elements of the roof drainage system are installed on the wind board - funnels, gutters on brackets, pipes, etc.

• Next, the gable sides of the rafter system are sheathed. Most often, wooden or plastic lining or even planed boards.

For the lining, a special profile is fixed around the perimeter of the pediment triangle, into which the prepared panels, cut at the desired angle, will be installed. Installation is usually done symmetrically - from the middle post to one side and then the other - then the cladding will be smooth and neat.

By the way, install the lining, Besides, you can do it horizontally, in a herringbone pattern, or come up with a more complex pattern.

Detailed information about the technology can be found in the article posted on our website by clicking on link.

Now, having finished the external finishing of the roof and being confident that rain will no longer get inside the country house, you can move on to installing windows and doors, insulation, flooring and wall cladding.

Installation of windows and doors

• Window frames are mounted in the frame openings left for them and leveled. For preliminary fixation when placing the frame, spacers made of wooden blocks or slats are installed between it and the opening bars.

Then, after checking the correct installation, the frames are attached to the wall frame with metal strips. The remaining gaps between the frame and frame bars are filled polyurethane foam. After it dries, the excess is cut off, and platbands are installed around the windows on the outside of the wall, which will close the unsightly appearance of the gaps and give neatness. general appearance house.

• It is best to install the door together with the door frame, if it has sufficient rigidity. This will make it much easier to align the entire structure with the level in the wall doorway.

When exposing the door frame, if necessary, to achieve a clear vertical position, place wedges (inserts) from wooden slats. The door frame is secured to the frame in the same way as window frames, using metal strips, and the gap is filled with polyurethane foam.

Having installed all the windows and doors, you can proceed to installing the floor.

Installation and insulation of floors

To begin with, the temporary flooring from the boards (if there was one) is removed from the lower frame, and then you need to install the subfloor.

• To do this, cranial bars are nailed or screwed onto the frame supporting beams. They are necessary for laying transverse subfloor boards on them.

• Next, boards cut to exact size or plywood 8 ÷ 10 mm thick are laid on the skull blocks - this flooring will serve as a subfloor.
• The subfloor laid on top is closed hydro- paro— insulating film, which should cover both the load-bearing beams and the entire floor plane. Individual sheets of material are laid overlapping (by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm) and taped at the joints with waterproof tape.

• Next, insulation material is laid or poured onto the vapor barrier film. If you don’t want to have neighbors who like to live under the floor, then it is better to use expanded clay of medium or fine fraction, or ecowool, to insulate the floor - these toothy pests simply do not live in such materials.

• Another layer of film membrane is laid on top of the insulation, which is nailed to the supporting beams with staples. The installation principle is exactly the same as on a subfloor.

• The entire structure is then covered with thick plywood or wooden floorboards.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Measures for additional thermal insulation

When the floor is completely ready, the walls of the house are insulated and sheathed from the inside. If the building will be used only in the warm season, then the insulation will still not hurt - it will work as an insulator of the premises from heating in extreme heat. Therefore, it is recommended to lay a thermal insulation layer not only in the walls, but also in the ceiling, and if it is missing, place insulation along the internal slopes of the roof.

• First on all walls and ceiling beams vapor barrier material is fixed. Then the ceiling is covered with clapboard, plywood or plasterboard.
• After covering the ceiling, the walls are insulated. Insulation mats are laid between the frame posts. It is necessary to ensure that the mats fit as tightly as possible against the bars of the wall frame, so that there are no gaps left.

That is why mineral wool is most often used as insulation - after being tightly laid between the racks, it will straighten out, completely filling the entire space. The material is usually selected so that the thickness of the mats and the thickness of the frame posts are the same.

• After this, all walls are again covered with vapor barrier film.

• The next step is covering the walls with wooden paneling, plywood or. The latter, with subsequent decorative finishing walls, can be painted water-based paint or covered with wallpaper.

• Next, it is insulated attic floor, there is insulation - it is laid between the floor beams.

If the ceiling is sheathed on the side of the house with plasterboard or clapboard, then we must not forget that you cannot step on it, since the sheathing will not support the weight of a person. You must move carefully along the floor beams.

• If the attic is planned to be used for storing various garden supplies, then a flooring made of boards or plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm should be secured on top of the insulation on the floor beams.
• The finishing touches of the interior decoration will be the installation of platbands on windows and doors, ceiling and floor skirting boards and closing the corners with fittings.

Extensions to the house

The last stages of arranging a country house are installation work on the veranda and porch.

If a place is left in advance for the veranda on the frame lying on the foundation, then a board is laid on this space to cover the floor (material for open areas is used), a fence is installed and a canopy is mounted.

If the foundation is raised high enough above the ground, then a porch is also attached to it.

Building a country house with your own hands is a completely doable task, but it will be quite difficult to do without helpers. Therefore, it is best to seek help from a knowledgeable master who has experience in such work and will always give helpful advice and will show how to correctly install certain components in the structure of the house. You can “mobilize” your relatives and friends - it is possible that a knowledgeable person will be among them.

Video: building a country house using frame technology

Who doesn’t dream of building a small cozy home, in which you can relax comfortably and at the same time not save for it for several years? This is quite real, especially if you have encountered construction or renovation at least once in your life.

It doesn’t matter if there have been no such cases, our article will help anyone, even if you have never held a drill or hammer in your hands.

Preparatory work

The first step is to familiarize yourself with several rules, prepare a project for a country house made of timber and purchase building materials. In order not to get ahead of ourselves, we will divide this section into several parts.

For your information!
For example, we will consider a one-story house with dimensions of 4x5 meters, without an attic, but with access to the attic.
Ready-made projects of country houses made of timber are presented in this and other articles on our website.

Construction requirements

• The most important thing is to determine the location of the future building. It must be practical, in terms of accessibility, safe, in terms of protecting neighboring structures from possible fires, functional, in terms of providing all necessary communications.
  Some useful tips:
  • You should retreat at least 5 meters from the street.
  • The minimum distance from the fences of neighboring plots is 3 meters.
  • Nearby wooden buildings should be located at a distance of at least 15 meters.
• The next step is to conduct a soil analysis to identify its composition, the maximum level of freezing, as well as the presence of groundwater.
• Prepare a place on the site for storing building materials, including covered areas to protect the necessary tools from the rain.

Note!
It is better to route the wires of the carriers in a suspended state so that they do not lie on the ground.
This eliminates the possibility of accidental damage, as well as interaction of electricity with water.

Documentation preparation

• The first step is to indicate on paper the dimensions of the future structure. Since we have a house with one floor, it is enough to indicate the height of the load-bearing walls and the height of the roof, as well as the length and width, as a result we will have the total area of ​​the house. Do not forget that our structure is 4 meters long and 5 meters wide, and the height is 3 meters, that is, 20 square meters or 60 cubic meters.
• After placing the load-bearing walls on paper, you need to indicate the internal walls, dividing the room into 1-2 rooms. Since our house is small, one spacious room with a small partition is enough to create a kitchen area.
• The project should indicate all construction materials that will be used in the work processes.

Construction materials

We have decided that the building will be built from timber - an environmentally friendly material that is better suited for a country house than anyone else. As for the roof, metal tiles or ordinary corrugated sheets are suitable, so to speak, an economical option for a small building.

Concerning finishing materials, then it is best to use varnish or paint, which also have a positive effect on the strength of the structure, protecting the timber from abundant moisture. On the other hand, in order for the paint to stay on the wood for a long time, it needs to be thoroughly prepared and treated with protective agents.

Important!
The final price of construction largely depends on the type of timber chosen; it can be either profiled material or country houses can be easily built from laminated veneer lumber.
The latter option is more expensive, but less labor-intensive, so it’s up to you to decide based on your capabilities.

Required Tools

• Drill.
• Screwdriver.
• Hammer and mallet.
• Construction level and plumb line.
• Roulette.
• Hacksaw and jigsaw.
• Furniture stapler.
• Roller and brush for paint and varnish.

Foundation construction stage

After all the above procedures have been completed, materials and tools have been purchased, you can begin building the foundation. Typically, small country log houses do not put much strain on the soil, so if it does not consist of sand, then the most economical and practical base option is a columnar type.

It’s easy to make it yourself from any available materials:

• Initially, recesses are dug so that the base of the pits is located below the freezing level of the soil.

Note!
For convenience, it is better to dig a hole half a meter in diameter so that the finished post can be treated with hydrophobic material and then covered with soil.

• 10-15 cm of sand is poured into the bottom of the recess and compacted thoroughly.
• It is necessary to make formwork from available materials (plywood and boards), about 20-30 cm high above the soil level. The cross-section of the pillar is 15x15 cm.

• Now in a metal container (or on plastic film) you need to mix cement mortar, mix cement, crushed stone, sand and water to form a thick mixture.
• Pour the solution into the recess.
• Stick 3-4 reinforcement bars into the cement.
• After the solution has set (5-7 days in warm weather), it is necessary to cover it with bitumen.
• Now the hole is filled with soil.

Important!
The pillars should be located in increments of 1-1.5 meters, no more, but no less, although a large number of supports does not affect the technical part in any way, but only affects your budget.

• After all the supports are ready, it is necessary to check the horizontal plane of the base. If everything worked out without any significant differences (an error of 3-5 mm is acceptable), then a piece of roofing material is laid on the pillars.
• Now all that remains is the base, fastening the products with nails.

We build walls

When building country houses from profiled timber, to save money, it is enough to use products with a section of 10 by 10 cm, this is enough to withstand all kinds of loads.

• The first step is to lay out one row on the base.

• The next step is to lay the second row every meter.

Note!
The fasteners should be recessed 1-2 cm into the material so that it does not come into contact with the timber of the next row.

• It is better to start assembling from one corner, build two perpendicular walls, not forgetting about possible internal partitions. If your project has them, then additional grooves should be made in the timber and the internal walls should be laid simultaneously with the external ones.

• Window openings should be left empty until the house has completely settled, with a few exceptions - one row of timber should connect all sides of the window opening. This is necessary in order to avoid unevenness. The same goes for doorways.

Roof installation

When all the walls have been erected to the required height, you can begin installing the roof, one of the most critical moments.

The end result is directly related to the durability and reliability of the structure.

• Initially, horizontal logs are installed, playing the role of a ceiling.
• On them, in the center, vertical supports are attached (for a gable roof), the height of which should be equal to the intended height of the roof.

For your information!
In the case of other types of roofing, vertical supports are located depending on what kind of structure is planned.
For example, for a pitched roof they are attached strictly above the load-bearing wall.

• Now it’s time to install the rafters; they should be attached to metal corners and self-tapping screws. The distance between the posts is no more than 60 cm.

• The rafters should be secured together with several horizontal boards.
• From the inside, you need to stitch everything with windproof film; to do this, use a furniture stapler.

• All that remains is to fix the building material that you have chosen for the roof. If this is ordinary corrugated sheeting, then it can be fastened without preliminary drilling, using galvanized self-tapping screws with a drill.

In case you plan to use a country house all year round, you will need to secure another vapor barrier layer between the rafters on the outside.

Of course, it is better to build correctly right away than to redo it later. Well, if you do do any modifications, then do it thoughtfully so as not to turn the reconstruction into an endless process.

We first evaluate any structure by its appearance. And as often happens (this is especially true for country houses old building): the structure seems to be of good quality, but it looks unsightly. So what - break everything down and build again? Or should I try something less expensive? For example, apply techniques that allow you to create the optical effect of changing the size of an object in width and height, combining this with cosmetic finishing of the facade and minor design modifications ( rice. 1).

Rice. 1. A small modification to the house allows you to change the perception of the size of the object in terms of width and height.

This can be done by different orientations of the architectural elements of the building in the vertical and horizontal directions. Let’s say we need to “stretch” the roof in width, and “raise” the frame upward. To do this, we will “extend” the existing window in both directions (at the same time it will be lighter in the attic) and install a gable ebb (the protection of the facade from rain will improve). You can install a ridge ebb, which is also structurally justified. A attic window will improve the ventilation conditions of the attic and, to some extent, its lighting.

Thus, all these decorative innovations not only improve the appearance of the building, but also turn out to be functionally useful. On the contrary, the main facade of the log house should be made visually higher. The simplest solution is not to trim the corners with boards, but to paint them in a more bright hues. The actual height of the log house can also be disguised by planting trees and shrubs, as well as installing a fence of appropriate height.
There are many ways to influence the appearance of a building in the arsenal of designers and architects. You need to select the most effective and simple ones.

However, our main goal is to reduce construction errors to a minimum. Can this be achieved? Even if we have a whole statistical “bank” of errors, we will not be able to use this information effectively without an integrated approach. It is necessary to systematize errors, and on the basis of this, develop rules that should be followed during the construction process. In other words, it is necessary to regulate the requirements for each part of the building under construction. Following them will prevent serious mistakes and help you look “in the right place.” A list of such requirements can be formed not only based on building codes, but also on the basis of survey results, common sense considerations, taking into account the materials and tools used.

However, requirements are only half the battle. Another important component of success is the control system. After all, country houses are often built by non-professional builders. It is for them that they need a systematic approach that will allow them to build with high quality, quickly and without extra costs.

An example would be the construction of a country house from timber - the most common and relatively inexpensive material.

Foundation

The construction of any house begins with the foundation. The most common are shallow strip reinforced concrete foundations. They are simple and technologically advanced to manufacture, reliable, well protect the underground from cold, snow and wind, and are quite versatile for almost any type of soil.

IN cross section the foundation consists of underground and above-ground parts, which are poured with concrete separately. For example, when building on clay soils (in the Moscow region their area is about 70%), concrete for the base of the foundation is poured directly into a trench dug in the ground, and then the formwork panels are installed and the base is poured.

The arrangement of the foundation begins with its marking. Many developers at this stage “fence the garden”, believing that they cannot do without cast-offs. Of course, cast-offs are necessary when constructing large construction projects. However, when we are talking about a rectangle with dimensions of 6x9 m, shouldn't we mark it in a simpler way? And horizontal marks can be easily obtained using a hydraulic level without a level: after all, the area is insignificant. Casting means extra labor costs, additional costs of lumber, and subsequently - inconvenience and interference during the installation of formwork panels, as well as difficulties in maneuvering concrete trucks.

Rice. 2. Marking the foundation

Let's consider the most simple technology marking the strip foundation (Fig. 2). First, the basic position of the main angle is determined in the right place - in relation to the road, terrain, plan, etc. A peg is driven in at this place.

Then, using a triangle, a right angle is set from this point. Now, having the given dimensions of the sides of the foundation, it is not difficult to determine the position of all the corners. The accuracy of the work is checked by comparing the diagonals of the rectangle.

Pegs are driven in at the marked points. Then, according to the given width of the foundation strip, an internal rectangle is built and the pegs are driven in again. The position of the foundation for the veranda is also determined. Pegs are also driven in here. Thus, having driven in only 12 pegs, the work of marking the foundation can be considered completed.

After installing the pegs, an incision is made and the turf is removed along the contour of the foundation. To do this, take a board with a cross-section of 50x150 mm, first apply it to the outer pegs and, moving along the board, cut the turf with a shovel. Then the board is placed against the inner pegs and the turf is cut again.

They act similarly along the entire contour of the future building. All that remains is to remove the trimmed turf, after which the laying out of the foundation can be considered completely completed.

Such simplified markings make it possible to obtain the outline of the trench without precise millimeter measurements, the need for which may arise at subsequent stages of construction. After this, the excavation of the trench begins.

Some critics of strip foundations consider their main drawback to be the large volume of excavation work. However, this is not quite true. My colleagues and I have never used an excavator to remove soil. This is expensive, and the trench turns out to be extremely sloppy, which requires subsequent manual modification. In addition, the consumption of concrete increases. But for a house with dimensions of 6x9 m, we only need to select about 9 m3 of soil. A team of four people will do this (including markings and smoke breaks) in just half a day. I dare to say that drilling two or three dozen holes in clay for a columnar foundation, and even with a widening, is much more difficult. When removing soil from a trench for a strip foundation, vertical markings are simultaneously made: the depth of the trench and the height of the panels are determined. Measurements are made using stakes and a hydraulic level (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3. Vertical marking of the trench

A sand cushion is poured into the bottom of the dug trench in layers of 10-15 cm and compacted. Then the reinforcement is installed and concrete pouring begins.

There is no point in preparing concrete yourself. The concrete truck will bring it and pour it into the trench ready mixture. However, it will be necessary to make room for equipment to approach the trench in at least 2-3 places. If you pour it at one point, then the concrete will have to be pushed far with shovels, and the coarse aggregate (crushed stone) will settle in one place. Only the liquid part of the solution will reach remote parts of the trench.

After pouring concrete into the trench, you can start preparing reinforcement and making formwork panels. In the meantime, while the base concrete has not yet hardened, you need to insert pins into it every 1-1.5 m to connect the base of the foundation with the base. Reinforcing bars ø14-16 mm and 50 cm long are buried 30 cm into the concrete of the base.

In order for the foundation to work reliably, it must meet the following requirements:
- the foundation strip must have sufficient strength and stability;
- the foundation must provide the necessary underground ventilation;
- the surface of the base bed must be straight and located strictly in a horizontal plane;
- the walls and corners of the plinth must be strictly vertical;

The surface of the walls should not have peeling, chips, empty spaces, sinkholes, or open areas with reinforcement;
- the height of the base must be at least 50 cm.
All further actions should be aimed at meeting these requirements, and only then the list of errors when laying the foundation can be reduced or eliminated altogether.

To fill the base, you need to make and install shields. In the case under consideration, 42 m2 of external formwork panels and 30 m2 of internal panels will be required. External panels are subject to more stringent requirements, since they form the front part of the foundation. For them, it is advisable to use boards with a section of 50×150 mm, which were purchased for rafters. After dismantling the formwork panels, they are used for their intended purpose.

It makes sense to make internal panels (as experience suggests) from boards with a cross-section of 25×150 mm, which were purchased for sheathing. However, to ensure the strength of the formwork, they need to be knocked down in 2 layers.

Rice. 4. Manufacturing of formwork panels

In addition to the economical production of formwork panels, it is advisable to use a simplified scheme for installing and fastening formwork panels, which my colleagues and I have been using for quite a long time. Its essence is as follows. First, the outer panels are assembled (4 boards per panel). To have fewer gaps between the boards, you can use a simple method of joining the boards together using shovels (Fig. 4). Shield ties made of bars with a cross-section of 50×50 mm and a length of 80 cm are laid out on the ground. Boards with a cross-section of 50×150 mm are laid on them. The result is a shield 60 cm wide, which allows you to get a plinth of the desired height. The boards are pressed together with shovels and nailed to the ties. The boards are not nailed together at the ends of the shields. Locks will be placed there, which are nailed into place when installing the shields. The ends of the ties protruding at the top are used to place twisted wires.

Internal contour panels are made in the same way, but they are assembled from boards with a cross-section of 25x150 mm in two rows with a slight offset. Here, for assembly, instead of nails, it is advisable to use self-tapping screws. Before installation, finished panels are wrapped in roofing felt, since glassine and film tear when pouring concrete, forming unnecessary patterns on the surface of the concrete.

The main thing when assembling formwork- ensure its stable position at the time of pouring concrete. Insecurely fastened panels at the time of pouring can cause a lot of trouble. To prevent them from tipping over, various braces, stakes and stops are often used. As a result, material is wasted, work takes a lot of time, and the reliability of formwork installation leaves much to be desired. The most important thing is that the fastening elements take up a lot of space on both sides of the base, which interferes with work and complicates the movement of concrete trucks.

There is an alternative to such an irrational method of attaching formwork. To install and fasten the panels, reinforcing pins are used, which are inserted into the base of the foundation along its central axis. The formwork panels are secured to the pins with wire ties. As a result, the panels will be securely tied to the base of the foundation and firmly attached to it without external structures interfering with the work. The pins are installed at the corners of the foundation at the junction with the lintels, and in the spaces between them they are placed in increments of 1.0-1.5 m.

Let's look at the technology for installing panels with reinforcing pins in more detail.(Fig. 5). First, the inner contour of the shields is installed. It is placed taking into account the width of the base. Since the base of the foundation is slightly wider than the base (40 cm versus 25-30 cm), there is some space for arranging the panels. The panels are connected at the corners using locks and temporarily secured with scraps of lumber. Correct installation is checked by comparing the diagonals. The temporarily fastened inner formwork box serves as the basis for installing the outer contour.

Rice. 5 Formwork installation diagram

Then they act in this order. Spacers are placed on each pin, the position of the pins is marked on them (since you cannot place them exactly in the center), nails are hammered into the spacers according to the marks and they are bent around the pins. After this, wire is wound around the pins.

External shields are placed close to the spacers, and the ends of the wire are wound around the fastening nails (they are not bent yet). Both walls of the formwork are temporarily fixed, and 2-4 reinforcement rods ø12-16 mm are placed on the spacers.

The most important point is the formation of products. These structural elements determine the ventilation conditions for the underground. They are often formed using scraps of asbestos-cement pipes or wooden boxes are knocked together. The disadvantage of these methods is that if the shield is slightly deflected, a gap is formed between it and the liner, into which the concrete mixture immediately flows. As a result, work often goes down the drain.

We do things differently in our practice. We take a piece of timber with a cross-section of 150×150 mm or a piece of round timber ø130…150 mm, wrap it in 2-3 layers of roofing material and insert it between the panels. To make it easier to push out the insert and allow water to drain from the vent to the outside, we make the inner part of the insert smaller in cross-section. I note that in the future these plugs can be used to protect air vents in the winter.

To improve ventilation conditions, vents on opposite walls of the base must be placed co-ordinated. And to ensure that rodents are not interested in your underground, it is advisable to place a mesh with bent edges between the liner and the internal shield. After pouring the concrete, the underground will be reliably protected.

After installing the liners between the panels, the upper spacers should be inserted and secured with nails, which (together with the lower ones) determine the width of the base. The rods of the upper reinforcement belt of the plinth are also placed on these bars, which are secured with nails against lateral displacement at the time of concrete pouring. All that remains is to bend upward the nails with the wire wound on them, and the panels will be securely pulled to the reinforcing pins.

Vertical reinforcement elements may not be installed given the dimensions of the structure and the loading conditions of the foundation.

Now you need to set the height of pouring concrete into the form. To do this, set the filling height at the lowest point of the base. From this point, using a hydraulic level, other points are “beat off” along the entire contour of the foundation. Then nails are driven through the shields every 1.0-1.5 m, along the protruding ends of which the top of the base is rubbed.

After marking the concrete pouring level and installing the top twists, you should check everything thoroughly again (compare the diagonals, make sure the panels are installed vertically).

For rigidity, the inner and outer contours of the shields near the corners need to be tightened with overlays (Fig. 6). And if there are cracks at the bottom of the shields, they should be filled with sand.

Rice. 6. Formwork box

Unfortunately, not all concrete trucks unload concrete with pumps. Therefore, you should be well prepared for receiving concrete - clear the entrances and mixer stops for unloading. It may be necessary to make receiving trays. You can also make your own concrete.

Concrete must be poured in layers, carefully monitoring the position of the boards. Compaction of concrete is done with the help of vibrators, but you can do without them. Good results are also obtained by simply tapping the shields with the butt of an ax - then the surface of the base will be free of holes and flaws. But in the corners, to prevent the formation of chipped formations, the mass of concrete must be pierced with a piece of reinforcement (Fig. 7).

Rice. 7. Compacting concrete in corners

I note that with the traditional (using stakes and spacers) system of installing panels at the time of pouring concrete, troubles often arise. For example, the top or bottom of the shield may be partially deflected. This process can be stopped with various supports, but after the concrete hardens, swellings (“belly”) may form in this place, which will spoil appearance foundation. It's even worse when the concrete ends up on the ground.

If a deviation of the shield is detected, the supply of concrete should be immediately stopped and the solution should be thrown away from the emergency area with shovels. At this time, other craftsmen hammer in the stakes. Then a brace is inserted, one end is rested against the peg, and the other, together with the wedge, is brought under the shield (Fig. 8). The bottom of the shield is also fixed with an emphasis on the stake. After this, carefully tapping the wedge, raise the shield slightly. This operation is repeated several times until the formwork is completely restored.

Rice. 8. Straightening the formwork

If the bottom of the shield has come off, then they also drive a stake into the ground and install a spacer between it and the shield. After this, using the butt of an ax or a sledgehammer, the spacer is gradually driven into place and the “belly” is eliminated.

Concrete is a plastic material, and it is precisely this property that is used to restore formwork. However, this property of concrete must be taken into account. When the solution vibrates, significant expansion forces arise, and the mixer feeds concrete intensively. In this regard, I would like to draw the readers’ attention to a typical mistake when attaching boards, when the twisted wire is hooked onto the boards, and not onto the crossbar ties (Fig. 9). As a result, the boards move away from the bars and the shield deviates from the vertical.

Rice. 9. Shields cannot be mounted this way

When installing formwork using the method proposed above, some difficulties may arise. For example, when the pins and crossbar ties of the shields do not match (see Fig. 5). And this is natural, since it can be difficult to combine them. If the difference is large, then it is better to install additional ties. This means that you need to have a supply of the necessary material on hand, just in case.

The poured concrete is protected from cracking with sawdust, roofing felt or film and moistened with water. After the concrete has hardened, dismantling the formwork begins. There are different opinions on this issue. Some people think that this should be done after 2 weeks, others are convinced that the form cannot be disassembled until the concrete has gained full strength.

In my opinion, there is no need for a long curing period for concrete. It can be very difficult to tear off the boards (many of them split), and minor irregularities cannot be corrected. You can disassemble the formwork already on the third day. By this time, the concrete will have already gained 25% strength, and some irregularities will not be difficult to remove mechanically. At this time it is also convenient to repair various chips and sinks.

The finished foundation (Fig. 10) should be carefully inspected and the horizontality of the upper cut (viewpoint /) and the flatness of the plinth walls (viewpoint II) should be checked. If an instrumental control method is necessary, a tape measure, hydraulic level, plumb line, etc. are used.

Rice. 10. Foundation control

Preparation for installation of timber frame

Any construction project as a whole and each of its parts separately (foundation, walls, floors, roof) can be characterized using concepts such as verticality, perpendicularity, parallelism, flatness and straightness.

Most of these parameters are regulated building codes and rules. Unfortunately, amateur developers are not always guided by them, and sometimes are not even aware of the existence of relevant standards. However, this does not reduce the importance of the design requirements that are enshrined in these regulatory documents. Even for the reader uninitiated in the intricacies of construction, it is obvious what, for example, non-parallel walls or their different heights can lead to. Today we will talk about walls.

Natural moisture timber

More often country houses built from timber natural humidity. This material, which is much cheaper than profiled or laminated veneer lumber, allows you to build a warm and reliable house.

However, without knowledge of the basic rules for working with natural moisture timber, success in construction cannot be achieved.

The purchased timber should not be dried. It is necessary to build walls from it as quickly as possible, since when drying the material is greatly deformed: it bends, takes on a rhombic shape, or even worse - it is twisted by a “propeller”.

Some developers prefer to plan the timber, believing that this will allow them to avoid sheathing the walls later. Others believe that it is necessary to sheathe and insulate walls only on one side and plan only one edge of the timber. In my opinion, it is still better to sheathe the walls on both sides. In this case, there is no need to plan the timber and chamfer its edges.

However, if you decide to plan the timber, consider the following. The edge of a beam with a cross-section of 150×150 mm can be planed in 2 passes, since the working width of planes is limited. To ensure that there are no steps on the planed surface, the plane is first planed along the beam, and the second pass is made, holding the tool at an angle a = 25°-45° to the longitudinal axis ( rice, 11).

Rice. 11. Planing the edges of the timber. To ensure that there are no steps on the planed surface, the planer is first used to plan along the beam, and the second pass is made at an angle to the longitudinal axis.

The beams laid in the walls dry out. As a result, deep cracks are formed into which water gets in, which does not bode well for the structure. The most important thing is that as the beams dry out, they decrease in size. This property of wood must be seriously taken into account when constructing timber houses - shrinkage reaches 3-10% of the height of the walls.

Wall requirements. Walls are a fundamental part of the structure, which determines the living conditions in the house and its architectural appearance as a whole. In accordance with this, the following basic requirements can be presented to the walls.

1. The main overall dimensions of the walls must have an optimal ratio.
2. The walls must be straight, and the joints between them (corners) must be strictly vertical.
3. Opposite walls must have the same dimensions throughout their entire height.
4. The plane of the upper frame of the building must be strictly horizontal.

Of course, this is far from a complete list of requirements for walls in general and for timber frames in particular. However, in amateur construction, monitoring only these parameters gives good results.

Bottom trim and overlap

The lower trim should be reliably waterproofed from the foundation. Ruberoid is not the best choice for this. Over time, it dries out, the bitumen impregnation evaporates and the wood becomes practically defenseless. The following method of waterproofing is more reliable. The surface of the base is coated with bitumen mastic, and a layer of waterproofing is laid on it, which, thanks to the coating, is connected to concrete base no gaps. The beams of the lower trim are laid on this bedding, which are pre-treated with protective compounds ( rice. 12).

Rice. 12. Installation of the bottom trim and ceiling

Bioprotection of wooden structures- the most important construction operation. And here everything needs to be done right away to ensure the durability of the building. It is no secret that any antiseptics evaporate after a few years. Getting to the structural elements in order to reprocess them is difficult, if not impossible. In this regard, it is advisable to first saturate the material with an adhesive agent, and to prevent it from evaporating, cover the outside of the beam with bitumen mastic. The antiseptic penetrates deep into the wood, and the mastic protects it from evaporation. Floor beams are processed similarly.

After checking the diagonals, the laid lower trim is connected with staples ( see Fig. 12, Node B), and the position assembled structure marked on the waterproofing of the base. This is necessary to control the position of the frame on the foundation. For reliability, the harness can be attached to the base with crutches or long nails through plugs. There must be at least two such fastenings on one side. After installing the lower trim, the ceiling is installed. In construction practice, the following two structural schemes are most often used, one of which is the “beam-clag” scheme. In this option, beams are first laid, and logs are installed across them. The latter are placed more often than beams. Placed on edge, boards together with beams form a rigid structure capable of bearing specified loads. It is advisable to use this scheme if thin tongue-and-groove boards are intended to be used for the floor. With the “beams + joists” scheme, it is easier to solve issues of effective floor insulation, however, the consumption of lumber with this type of flooring increases.

It should be noted that in dacha construction, a floor plan consisting only of beams is much more often used, on which floor boards are laid. In this case, beams with a cross section of 100×200 mm are used as beams. Together with the cranial bars, such beams have sufficient load-bearing capacity and, just as importantly, due to their height, they also make it possible to effectively insulate the floor. When using thick floorboards, such beams can be spaced in increments of up to 1 m.

The beams should be laid so that there is a ventilation gap (2 cm) between their ends and the frame. This is done using gaskets, which are removed after fastening with staples (see Fig. 12, node B). The ends of the beams must be carefully treated with an antiseptic.

The technology for installing beams is simple. First, the outer beams are mounted and aligned in a horizontal plane. After this, a board is placed on edge between them and intermediate beams are installed on it. The work is usually monitored visually, and if necessary, a level is used. Technological flooring is laid on the beams.

Labour Organization

You need to prepare for assembling the box, since both the quality of construction and its pace depend on the organization of work. To ensure the work progresses, the beams are laid out in a stack at a distance of 5 m from the building on one or, better yet, both sides (Fig. 13). Inch boards are laid between the rows of beams. To do this, it is advisable to use material intended for subfloors.

Rice. 13. Organization of the workplace

Between the stack and the log house, work stations are equipped for marking the beams and cutting them. You can do it like this. At the required height (depending on the height of the worker), support boards are inserted between the rows of beams. The timber is carefully laid on them and marked using a template. Then the workpiece is transferred to the cutting site, the necessary operations are performed, after which, using a rope, the workpiece is lifted along the slopes onto the walls and laid.

To facilitate the ascent to the slopes, it is advisable to nail wedge-shaped stops. They will prevent the beam from sliding down uncontrollably, which can pose a serious danger to workers on the construction site. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to get by with little force. Even one person can lift the load if necessary, securing it with stops at intermediate points.

Marking the bars

This stage of work is very important, since the quality of further construction depends on the correct marking. Traditionally, marking is done using a tape measure. dimensions removed directly from the walls, and then grooves, tenons and other profiles are marked on the ground using a square.

For example, in the case under consideration, each crown consists of 7 beams from 3 to 6 m long. To assemble the box, hundreds of measurements must be taken. You can make your work easier and increase its accuracy if you use templates instead of measurements. Marking in this case is reduced to simply tracing the contours of the templates with a marker, which allows not only to reduce labor costs, but also to minimize measurement errors. When using templates, the blanks have identical dimensions, which ultimately makes it possible to achieve High Quality assembling the timber box.

Note that if you use traditional templates (one for two mirror-like workpieces), then for the construction of walls you will need 7 marking devices, which will inevitably clutter up the workspace (Fig. 14). This may be why many builders don’t like templates, despite the obvious advantages of using them. This means that you need to make sure that there are not too many marking devices.

Rice. 14. Schemes for cutting beams: 1.1′ - main beam of the longitudinal wall (right and left); 2.2′ - additional beams of the longitudinal wall (right and left extensions); 3 - marking holes; 4 - marks on the edges; 5 - parts of the workpiece to be removed; 6 - transverse wall template; 7 - partition beam; 8 - transverse wall beam; 9 - marking holes.

Rice. 5. Scheme for developing templates for longitudinal walls: 1 - main beam; 2 - additional beam; 3 1 partition; 4 - corner grooves; 5 - groove for the partition beam; 6 - longitudinal wall template; 7 - extras; a,d - cuts on the edges; b, c - marking holes.

Let's look at the principles of template development (Fig. 15). So, let’s say we have to assemble a lumber box with dimensions of 6x9 m. If we have standard lumber (6 m), this can be done, at first glance, without unnecessary waste. However, it is not. It is possible to assemble a crown 9 m long without loss of lumber only if you join pieces 6 m long and 3 m long end-to-end (this masonry is often called “brick”). However, this connection is rough construction error, since such a joint turns into a “cold bridge”.

The correct connection of “half-tree” beams with an overlap of 15...20 cm. But then the total length of the spliced ​​parts will not be 9 m, but 8.8 m. The joints are arranged in a checkerboard pattern, which should be taken into account when developing template profiles.

The internal wall (partition) should be positioned with some offset from the joint to the right or left. Thus, on one crown, long beams are laid on the left, and extensions on the right. On the next crown, installation begins in a similar order, but on the right.

Having determined the exact dimensions of the parts included in each crown, you can begin to detail the contours of the templates for the right and left versions.

Templates can be made from edged “inch” boards prepared for lathing. The surfaces of the boards should be pre-planed.

To mark the extensions, you can not make separate templates, but place them on the main templates by making 4 small cuts (“a” and “d”) on their edges and drilling two holes (“b” and “c”). Thanks to the through holes, the template becomes technologically “transparent” while actually being “opaque.” Thus, a typical technical contradiction can be resolved quite simply.

After marking the template, the shaded parts are cut out. The marking devices are ready.
As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from 7 to 3 (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse walls). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to prepare parts for transverse walls and partitions.

Moreover, only a partition installed asymmetrically forces you to make 2 longitudinal templates. With a symmetrical installation, one marking device would be enough.

When developing templates, it should be taken into account that on a construction site, marking devices can be rotated 180° relative to the longitudinal axis, and also moved along the longitudinal axis. It is strictly not recommended to rotate a long template 180° around the vertical axis, since it will be almost impossible to do this during work. Now let's look at how templates are used. To mark the first beam of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is laid on the beam and the end of the template on the left is outlined with a marker, then two grooves and, finally, a recess for the “half-tree” connection. The marked timber is transferred to the cutting site, where unnecessary fragments (it is better to shade them when marking) are cut out with a chain saw.

The same is done with the second beam. On the longitudinal wall, we need to make an “extension” for each full beam. To do this, place a template on the beam (position I in Fig. 14) and trace it. The sample for the “half-tree” connection at the end of the workpiece is marked with an awl, pricking the beam at points “c” and “b” (see Fig. 14, node A).

Then the template is shifted (position II in Fig. 14) and the contour is traced again. The timber with two marked additional parts is placed on pads in the cutting area. After cutting out the shaded areas, extensions are obtained for both longitudinal walls. Arrows in Fig. Figure 14 shows manipulations with the installation of additional parts in the walls.
Since the joints of the beams are staggered, the markings of the crown located above begin on the right side. Here the elements of the corner locks are already changing: if there was a groove on the longitudinal beam, and a tenon on the transverse beam, now everything should be the other way around.

However, how to mark parts with spikes? Should I make separate templates for them or make do with the marking devices that I already have? It is quite obvious that the tenon and groove are elements of the same unit, and therefore must correspond to each other in size and location, which means that a template with grooves can be used to construct tenon profiles on timber blanks. In Fig. 14 (node ​​B] shows a template for a transverse wall with a groove and parts with a tenon obtained using it. Moreover, to make the partition, holes are drilled in the template, which set the width of its tenon.

As for the size of the tenon, in no case should the tenon be allowed to fit tightly into the groove. The thorn will subsequently dry out, and as a result a channel will form, which will certainly turn into a “cold bridge.” Therefore, if the dimensions of the groove are 5x5 cm, then the tenon should have dimensions of 4.5x4.5 cm. The gap is filled with insulation.

Until now, speaking about marking, we assumed that the template profile was transferred to the upper edge of the beam. Various grooves and tenons are sawed from the side. This means that the horizontal markings need to be transferred to the vertical edge of the beam. This is done using squares. Accurate cuts are made using these markings.

Practical construction experience shows that it is unrealistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints. Therefore, mistakes often occur here when a tenon is marked instead of a groove, and vice versa. And this is no wonder if you do not use a system that makes marking grooves and tenons extremely simple. The diagram (Fig. 16) shows the walls with the designation of the serial number of the crown, the type of connecting elements at the ends of the blanks, and also indicates the positions of the openings in the wall. Such a diagram, which can be applied directly to the template, simplifies the organization of work and prevents marking errors.

Rice. 16. Scheme for marking corner joints of timber frames: 1 - joints of parts of longitudinal walls; 2 door openings

If you have an idea to build a house with your own hands, then the difficulty of choosing a material will be relevant.

The most budget option would be to build a house from timber. Despite the cheapness of this material, the house will be quite warm, durable and strong.

After studying the Internet, you will find that in most cases it is advised to choose timber with a cross-section of 150x150 mm.

But if you don’t want to attract additional labor, you can use lumber such as dry timber 150x100 mm, which after erection and shrinkage can be insulated with mineral wool. The house will not be inferior in thermal insulation to other buildings made of larger cross-section timber.

Construction stages and foundation construction

And so, the material has been purchased, we begin building the house:

• Initially, it is necessary to clear the space and level the area for the foundation;
• In accordance with the composition of the soil, determine the type of foundation (specialized reference literature will help with this).

The foundation can be piled, monolithic or strip, which is more often used, because wooden houses are relatively light.

After installing the foundation, the concrete should gain strength (3-4 weeks), then we proceed to laying the timber. Even before laying, it is necessary to prepare dowels (dowels) - this is what is used to fasten the timber laid in the crowns together. They are usually made from dense wood (larch).

If the beam size is 150x100 mm, dowels about 12 cm long are suitable. Also, the technology for laying timber requires laying inter-crown insulation. Usually these are rolled materials such as jute, you can also use tow or moss.

According to the advice of experts, you should use fresh red or peat moss that has been stored for no more than 3 weeks.

The first crown of the future house should be made of larch, which is not subject to rotting. For greater reliability, it can be treated with bitumen.

The beams of the first crown are fastened together using a technique known as “half a tree” - the ends of the beam are cut lengthwise and crosswise. It is also necessary to fasten such a knot using staples or nails.

Methods of attaching timber to the foundation

At the stage of pouring the base, bolts with curved or cone-shaped bases are installed in its top layer. The distance between such bolts should not exceed more than 0.5 m. There should be at least two bolts for each element of the first crown.

In the timber of the first crown, even before laying, it is necessary to drill holes for the studs located in the foundation.

Pre-cut roofing material is laid on top of the grillage, which acts as a waterproofing material.

After laying the first crown and securing it to the foundation studs using washers and locknuts, align the horizontal line so that the house turns out without distortions. It is also recommended to check the diagonals.

Having laid the first crown, we begin to build the walls.

To do this you will need a variety of tools:

Note!

• Gasoline or electric saw;
• Hand-held circular saw;
• Drill;
• Level;
• Roulette;
• Axe;
• Hammer;
• Screwdriver;
• Hammer;
• Plane.

You also need consumables - nails, self-tapping screws, inter-crown insulation, fire-retardant impregnations.

After preparing everyone necessary materials and tools, we begin to build the walls of your future home. The timber is laid in rows (crowns) until the wall reaches the required height.

After laying 4-5 crowns, jambs for door and window openings. At the next stage, the final construction of the walls under the roof takes place.

Construction of roof and floors

We strongly do not recommend saving on materials for roofing installation. This part at home maybe performed in several versions:

• Single-pitch;
• Gable;
• Hip;
• Tent;
• Half-hip;
• Multi-pincer;
• Vaulted and diamond roofing.

It all depends on your desire, Money and the complexity of the rafter system.

Note!

Floors and ceilings in the house are also an important stage of construction. When arranging them, they are mainly guided by personal preferences, but high-quality waterproofing is mandatory for any manufacturing option. This is especially true for basements and plinths.

Photo of a house made of timber with your own hands

Note!