When they talk about installation according to the standard, they usually mean the installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST 30971. Or more precisely, its latest version from 2012, because the previous ones did not want to know anything about plastic windows. In the context of the standard, a number of recommendations are given, as well as requirements for the implementation of certain components. Many people will find the words rather blurry, but the pictures in the appendices are quite clear. Be that as it may, in practice no one installs PVC windows in accordance with GOST, strictly in accordance with the letter of the law. But some people do it because they know that they are insulated plastic slopes better than plaster, while others just save vapor barrier film at the expense of the customer. It is these two and similar cases that we must unmistakably distinguish if installers come to our house.
Installation options for PVC windows according to GOST 30971
Window installation
Requirements for the seam and fastening of the plastic window frame
In the initial chapters of the standard, along with certain characteristics and figures, instructions are given that indirectly hint at the fact that the installation of PVC windows is supposed to be done in Russia. What is it worth to even say that assembly seams are made from compounds that have not expired? Good, yes? Otherwise, we would now take expired foam somewhere in warehouses at a bargain price, and use it to carry out the entire installation. The seams themselves are divided into categories A, B and C. According to resistance to moisture penetration and maximum deformation.
What is more relevant for us is that the seams can be:
- Ordinary. These can withstand temperatures down to minus 30 degrees Celsius.
- Frost-resistant. This includes all other seams that are more resistant to cold weather.
It is clear that for most of our regions the first grade of installation is in no way suitable. The division is again based on the type of materials used. That is, when we take foam, we make sure that it withstands forty-degree frost. Further requirements are much more specific. Here are some of them:
According to GOST, the frame can be placed on anchors or dowels, but in the examples, anchor plates are used everywhere. These are thin pieces of flat steel profiles that easily bend to the shape of the opening and cling to the frame with one end and the wall with the other. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws and dowel-nails. Some call this approach a sham. Be that as it may, to prevent moisture from getting into the seam from the profile, PSUL is trimmed along the end of the frame.
In cases where fastening is carried out on anchors, the profile breaks through. It is important here to isolate the attachment points. Because according to GOST 30971, as we said above, polyurethane foam must be protected on all sides. Recall that the anchor plate goes to starting point parallel to the profile, so you can install a vapor barrier membrane under it, and cover it all with PSUL on top. In those cases where the steel axis goes straight into the wall, something else needs to be done. For example, prime the entire surface of the opening along with the holes for the anchors with waterproofing, and cover the holes in the profile silicone sealant, and from the inside of the seam. That is, the technology is becoming a little complicated, and everything ingenious, as we know, is simple. Therefore, our proposed method is not entirely correct.
Frame attachment
In any case, the builder's task is to insulate the seam. How he will do this is a purely personal problem for everyone. GOST gives only general recommendations on this score. And another burning topic is the problem of installation gaps. We already wrote in the topic about wooden houses that some foremen are literally fighting for every millimeter here. The point is that what more space around the perimeter of the frame, the more expensive the work, because building materials leaves more. Blowing also increases. At the same time, if the house is new and the gap is too small, then the window will simply crush during shrinkage. This is especially true for wooden walls. So there you go! GOST does not say a word about shrinkage or the degree of moisture of timber, but temperature fluctuations are widely played out. And this is how it happens...
Along the text, a crude drawing of disgusting quality is given, which shows two sizes. Just below is a table where it turns out that these are gaps depending on the material and color of the profile. In particular, for plastic these distances are slightly larger than for aluminum. Appendix B gives a completely ordinary formula, according to which, according to the idea, builders should check their assumptions about the size of the installation gaps around the perimeter of the frame. It multiplies the temperature difference with the coefficient of thermal expansion of the profile material (wood, steel, aluminum, PVC) and the length of the window. A correction factor is also introduced. For all materials except painted PVC (0.5), it is 0.4.
The result is a certain value that can be taken as the minimum installation gap. That is, you can sit down at home, calculate everything in advance, and when the installers bring the profile, you can surprise them (pleasantly or unpleasantly) with your knowledge of the issue. If the gaps are too high, then most likely the price will be high, but if they are too low, the window can be crushed in winter. And in any case, GOST does not take into account the shrinkage of the house. We focus on this.
The process of installing a plastic window frame into an opening
Please note that the linear dimensions of the window change depending on the temperature. This is most likely another reason for using anchor plates. In this case, they serve as springs, preventing deformations from causing significant damage. As for the anchors, they must be recessed into the frame. And that's why.
Let's say our frame is broken through at the attachment points. In summer, when temperatures are high, plastic expands rapidly. Its linear dimensions change faster than the wall. Consequently, if something connects these two elements, then deformations will occur in the profile. Please note that this cannot be said about foam; it holds along the entire perimeter, which blocks this factor. Thus, if anchors are used, they should not be rigidly connected to the profile.
We said this now because GOST is silent about it, and the need to drill the wall is already imminent. To mount the frame you will need wedges. GOST mentions spacer elements and says that they should be made of plastic or special hardwood, properly processed. As a result, it is much cheaper to buy mounting wedges in a store than to try to swim against the current. Before installation, the opening is thoroughly cleaned. GOST says that any interfering factors, including snow and ice, are removed. Irregularities are eliminated various compositions. There should be no defects larger than 1 cm in size.
Window frame perimeter
While the solution dries, the frame of the plastic window is prepared. To do this, two strips of vapor barrier membrane are glued along its perimeter. One for each side. If there is a window quarter, then a PSUL is mounted along its length with an indentation of 1 - 2 mm inward. We remind you that the membrane is glued with one edge under the anchor plates, which must be placed around the perimeter at a distance of no more than 70 cm with a distance of 10 - 12 cm from the corners.
Before installation, loose walls are primed with special mixtures or reinforced with film, and materials with strong water absorption are also treated accordingly. Mounting wedges are placed on the sides of the prepared base, approximately equal to the calculated gap. A plastic window frame is placed on them. The structure is symmetrical in the opening and leveled. Wedging begins, during which it is necessary to provide a calculated gap on each side of the frame.
The wedges themselves do not hold the profile; they are needed only at the installation stage. It is clear that if the temperature drops in the future, these elements will lose their load. Before foaming, the cleanliness of the opening is checked once again, and in place. The surface is moistened, after which the seam is blown in about two-thirds. In the future, polyurethane foam will expand and take up the entire space. When the composition has dried, the vapor barrier membrane along its edges is attached to the concrete base. No operations are performed with PSUL around the perimeter of the window quarter.
This creates a seam isolated from the street, and you can begin Finishing work. GOST 30971 contains several sketches of how to build slopes. According to one option, finishing is not done at all. The work of the master is limited to what we have already described. As for the slopes, it is proposed to make them from wood, plaster or drywall. PVC is not yet on this list, and everything made from sandwich panels is not regulated by the standard. But this made less polymers used in finishing. Because insulated and beautiful slopes are great, and PVC installation panels is much simpler than the plastering process.
That's all the installation of PVC windows according to GOST, about which there is so much gossip. Not a word about low tides at all. However, the procedure for installing them is extremely simple.
In this article:
In order for a PVC window to serve for a long time and properly, it is necessary to install it correctly. During installation, you must comply with the requirements of GOST and take into account the following factors: features of the walls in window opening, weight and size characteristics of the design and much more.
GOST requirements for the installation of metal-plastic systems
GOST has a list of requirements for the location of the frame and assembly seams, which are applied at the junction of the wall opening and the window block.
Rules for installing PVC windows according to GOST:
- The window system must be installed level. The permissible horizontal, vertical and frontal deviation should not be more than 3 mm. on the structure and 1.5 mm. on linear meter frames.
- The assembly seam must be three-layer. (GOST 30971-2002). For optimal steam and waterproofing, the width of the seam should vary from 15-18 cm from the corner. If this indicator is higher, then there is a risk of reducing the fastening strength, but if it is lower, the window may bend due to thermal expansion.
- In order for the window to be firmly fixed in the opening, it must be installed on support blocks, and spacer blocks must be fixed on the sides. Next, the frame is fixed using anchor dowels and special plates. The fastenings should be spaced at a distance of 700 mm. from each other. Compliance with the above requirements determines 80% consumer properties and metal quality plastic windows.
PVC window installation options
There are two options for installing plastic windows:
- with dismantling the window down to the smallest detail;
- without disassembling the window.
Without any knowledge, we can say that the second method will be simpler, but its use is limited by GOST requirements.
Technology for installing a plastic window with disassembly
GOST requirements state that the collapsible method must be used in cases of installing windows with large dimensions and at a significant height. This method consists of adding increased strength to the attachment points of the frame and walls. Let's look at the elements into which a plastic window is disassembled.
When using this method, the solid structure is disassembled as follows:
- The first thing you need to do is set aside the double-glazed windows, glazing beads and sashes, and the frame, in turn, needs to be attached to the wall. It must be remembered that the larger the frame, the longer the anchors will be, and the distance between them should, on the contrary, be smaller. If you take the average size between the anchors, it should be about half a meter.
- After the frame is properly attached to the wall, you can proceed to fastening the elements that were removed before installing the frame. After installing them in place, all that remains is to attach the ebb and slopes. It is best to connect the ebb tide to the stand profile.
Installing a plastic window without disassembling
This installation is designed for those window models that do not exceed 2 meters in height, and the building where it will be installed is no more than 12 floors. The biggest advantage of this installation is that the window does not need to be disassembled, and this will reduce the risk of incorrect installation of elements such as glazing beads or double-glazed windows.
Stages PVC window installation without disassembly:
1. If necessary, you need to dismantle the old window.
2. Next, the plastic window block is installed on special chopsticks. Then we align the window vertically and horizontally and, using wedges from the timber, fix the system in the wall opening.
3. Fasten window unit using fasteners. They must also meet the requirements of GOST 30971-2002 Appendix B.
4. We create an internal assembly seam that will protect the structure from excess moisture contained in the apartment.
5. Foam the assembly seam.
6. Close the seam with elastic tape. Then we screw it on starting profile to install slopes.
7. We cut out the slopes according to the given parameters and install them in the starting profile.
8. This completes the installation of the plastic window. We examined the installation of a PVC window in accordance with GOST with a vapor barrier for the installation seam inside the apartment.
Little things that require special attention
It is necessary to install a plastic window without disassembling it only with the shutters closed. If you say this in simple words, then the fittings must be adjusted before installing the window.
Don't neglect the stand profile! Without it, the risk of a cold bridge increases. This is also affected by an incorrectly positioned window.
If a collapsible window is being installed, then your attention must be concentrated on assembling the glazing beads and their fastening. Namely, when removing the glazing bead, the glass unit can be easily squeezed out, so during assembly you need to ensure that the glazing beads are tightly installed both from the outside and from the outside. inside.
How to make balcony glazing?
When using balcony glazing, you need to be especially careful, since the installation area will be large. Plus, on the balcony there will be a large load on individual window elements. The first step is to place in front of the balcony glazing powerful frame, which can support a heavy window frame.
Balcony designs of plastic windows can be completely different: hinged, sliding, blind with windows, etc.. If the balcony is small and winter time Since no one goes there, you can install lightweight sliders to save space. But, at the same time, you need to remember that they will allow the cold to pass through.
If you do warm loggia, then for this purpose it is better to install wide profiles and multi-chamber double-glazed windows. The mechanism of such windows will be tilt-and-turn, which will allow you to ventilate a warm balcony at any time.
With the emergence innovative technologies ordinary residents were given the opportunity to furnish their homes with greater comfort, coziness and warmth. Plastic windows play a significant role in this process. We can finally get rid of wooden windows, which dry out in the summer, dry out in the winter, do not retain heat well and become sources of drafts.
Double-glazed window modern type has absolutely no listed disadvantages. It is durable, strong, safe for the human body, and has a beautiful and attractive appearance. PVC windows long time will delight you with their functionality, but only with one condition: installation of double-glazed windows must be carried out in accordance with GOST and compliance with all the nuances and rules of installation technology. How to install plastic windows correctly if you have never done this before?
Trying to install double-glazed windows yourself is quite problematic, especially if you live in multi-storey building. This will require a mountaineer's skill, which you won't have. Therefore, the easiest way out is to hire specialists. But even if workers come to you who deserve numerous good reviews, who have recommendations, you should check that they are installing your window correctly. And for this you need to know the main points of installing plastic windows, which you must control on your part.
Window installation
The technology for installing a plastic window according to GOST involves step by step execution a number of measures and activities according to specified criteria, and in strict sequence each stage.
Installation of PVC windows according to GOST begins with dismantling an old window: workers must remove it completely, clean the opening down to brick or concrete base frames. Next, workers must prime the surface of the slopes, into which the new frame will fit.
Please note that when working, installers use a primer, but not water. The primer will ensure good adhesion of materials, which will then be used to isolate the resulting voids.
How is the special tape attached to the PVC frame? The compacted compressed tape is attached around the entire perimeter frames with outside. Its main purpose is to remove residual moisture that remains in the window opening. This device prevents the penetration of moisture in the opposite direction.
Then to the window frame attach diffusion tape. As a rule, she white, dense fabric structure on a rubber base. It adheres well to wall openings and also protects the seam from moisture.
After attaching all the tapes, the installers attach anchor plates to the frame. They are placed around the entire perimeter with a distance of 70 cm from each other. After this, the window block can be installed in the window opening.
Now the installation of a plastic window according to GOST moves to another stage, including fastening to window opening.
Important! The double-glazed window should not be placed on concrete, but on wooden blocks that are treated with an antiseptic composition. These pads help adjust the gaps between the frame and concrete slope. According to existing standards, the gap should not exceed 2 cm.
When the anchor plates are attached to the wall opening, the resulting gap must be fill with foam.
Foam is additional thermal insulation. It should fill all gaps and cracks to prevent excess moisture from entering. In addition, it is the polyurethane foam that helps reduce noise. After sealing the cracks from the inside with foam, the seams must be cover with dense diffuse tape.
Before installing the window sill, workers must use metallized tape, which takes part in the thermal insulation of the bottom seam.
Remember! Professional installers must lay protective tape along the outside area of the window, that is, from the street. A polyurethane foam from the facade it should not be visible at all.
Window sill fastening
- This final stage of installation of PVC windows.
Placed on a concrete base cement screed, which will help ensure the stability of the window sill. Only with this solution it will not sag and even can support a person's weight who wanted to sit down on a comfortable base.
Internal slopes are applied to the initial profile, and each subsequent step is carried out using measurements building level which helps monitor the frame tilt level. If it exceeds the norm even slightly, the window will not open or close well. Therefore, the construction crew must be closely monitored.
Installation of plastic windows in accordance with GOST 30971-2002 must be carried out in this sequence. And finally, we note that before releasing the workers and signing the work acceptance certificate, check the operation of the window, open and close the doors and make sure proper operation in all directions.
In conclusion, we suggest watching a video of what the installation of a plastic window should look like according to GOST:
If you have ever installed plastic windows, and the workers who served you performed the installation strictly according to the instructions and in accordance with GOST 30971-2002, leave your feedback in the comments.
Before moving on to issues directly related to the installation of windows, it is necessary to clearly define what regulatory documents regulate the performance of these types of work.
The following documents contain the most detailed description of window installation work and requirements for them:
- GOST 30674-99. Contains general information about "Window blocks from PVC profiles"and about the requirements for them. Almost nothing is said about the installation itself.
- GOST R52749-2007. Contains information about installing window units using PSUL (vapor-permeable self-expanding sealing tape).
- GOST 30971-2012. A revised and modernized standard, put into effect on January 1, 2014, instead of the outdated GOST 30971-2002, which in most cases was used previously.
At the end of the normative part, the following should be noted. Listed regulations, like most others not directly related to security, are valid, but not mandatory. However, following the GOST rules when installing window structures with your own hands, or when purchasing with installation, will allow you to achieve the quality of the work performed.
GOST 30971-2012 describes in sufficient detail the requirements for the construction and filling of seams, the size of window openings and gaps for installation, as well as types of fastening of structures. In addition, there are General requirements to the performance of work, preparation of the necessary documentation and minimum warranty obligations.
DIY installation instructions
Measurements
The width and height of the existing window opening are measured. The window dimensions are determined as follows:
- The width is equal to the measured width of the opening minus twice the width of the installation gap;
- Height is calculated in the same way. The minimum gap width according to GOST is 20 mm. In calculations, 25-30 mm is usually taken.
Quite often in brick houses The window opening is arranged using an external quarter. In this case, the measurement is taken from the outside.
- The width is equal to the resulting width between the quarters plus the value of the frame setting by a quarter (according to GOST - from 25 to 40 mm);
- The height is equal to the measured distance from low tide to the upper quarter with the addition of the value of the plant on the upper quarter (according to GOST, also from 25 to 40 mm.)
Fastening method (according to GOST)
- Directly through the frame in the plane in which installation is carried out. The most commonly used option, which requires preliminary dismantling of double-glazed windows from blind sashes and prefabricated swing sashes.
- Using reinforcement built into the frame during manufacture. The structure is assembled entirely, which requires skills and qualifications due to its considerable mass.
Preparing for installation
After manufacturing and delivery of window structures, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work, namely:
- clear a place in front of the window;
- remove furniture;
- cover walls, floors and all accessible structures with film or thick fabric;
- if necessary, remove the sashes from the frame (when installing through the frame);
- Fill (preferably one day before installation) the internal cavity of the stand profile with heat-insulating foam. This process, not mentioned in GOST and often not performed by builders, is carried out to prevent the formation of a cold bridge in the place where the profile is attached to the frame.
Installation of a window made of PVC profile
- Place wooden blocks or plastic backings from below on the end of the window opening.
- Install the frame or the entire assembly structure on them (depending on the type of fastening). The supports remain integral part design for greater reliability and stability.
- The pegs are driven in from the top side between the window and the wall. They secure the frame from the sides.
- Then you need to check the horizontality of the structure. If necessary, perform the necessary leveling by adding substrates.
- Check the verticality of the structure and make adjustments if necessary.
- Secure the frame in one of two ways:
- using a hammer drill to drill mounting holes in the wall through holes prepared in advance in the frame, followed by inserting and securing anchors. It must be remembered that you first need to drill the lower holes, securing the lower part of the structure; then drill and bait the middle and top part fastenings Finally, check the structure for verticality and horizontality and secure it completely;
- Having bent the fastening ears to fit them as tightly as possible to the wall, drill an anchor hole in the wall and secure the anchor. Also start from the bottom of the fastening structures, then move higher. If possible, it is necessary to check the correct position of window structures as often as possible.
Drain installation
Usually from the outside window design There is a groove for installing a drainage system. According to GOST requirements, it must be foamed during installation; additional fastening with screws is also allowed to create greater reliability of the structure.
Checking and assembling the window
After completing the installation of anchors and drainage, it is necessary to once again check the horizontal and vertical alignment of the installation. Then you need to assemble the structures (if necessary), which is performed in the reverse order of disassembly, with the installation of all fittings, handles, limiters, etc.
Filling gaps
The process occurs with the doors tightly closed and is almost always performed with polyurethane foam. It should be remembered that polyurethane foam is a proven material and has a long history of use, however, it also has certain disadvantages. In particular, it is not sufficiently resistant to exposure to open ultraviolet radiation and the external environment.
Therefore, to avoid possible gradual destruction of the insulation and subsequent freezing and fogging of windows, GOST prescribes mandatory insulation of the seam on all sides. To do this you need:
- From the inside, stick a waterproofing self-adhesive tape around the perimeter of the window (on the sides and top), which is vapor-tight and is used specifically for plastic windows. A foil strip is glued to the bottom, which will subsequently be located under the window sill board;
- With outside a membrane moisture-resistant and vapor-permeable adhesive strip (PSUL) capable of releasing steam to the outside must also be glued around the perimeter.
The mentioned materials are offered in a sufficient range on the building materials market. Their use will practically not increase the cost of work, but will significantly increase their quality, as well as the service life of the mounted structure.
The gap is directly filled onto the pre-wetted surface from the inside after bending the self-adhesive strips. For application, a regular gun and foam are used, intended for year-round use. GOST allows the use of ordinary foam, but such windows can be used at temperatures down to -30 degrees. Naturally, in almost all regions of Russia, windows with such seam insulation cannot be used.
Window sill installation
A fairly simple process consisting of adjusting (trimming if necessary) the window sill so that it fits exactly under the window frame with emphasis on the lining profile. GOST provides for its penetration onto walls - from 50 to 100 mm. Then the pegs are used to give the level at which it should be, and the cavity under it is sealed with mortar or foam.
Thus, the insulation must be somehow protected from the penetration of direct moisture or water vapor into it, and the moisture that does get into the insulation must be given the opportunity to evaporate outside so that none of the described problems threaten the installation seam. For this purpose, special vapor barrier and waterproofing vapor-permeable materials have been created, which we produce. The first ones are installed from inside the room and prevent the penetration of moisture contained in the room air into the installation seam, that is, to the insulation. The second ones are installed outside. These materials protect the insulation from the penetration of direct moisture (water) from the street. And also, which is very important, being vapor-permeable, they ventilate inner part installation seam, allowing it to breathe. Thus, condensed water or water vapor that got there from inside the wall (from its condensate plane) is removed from the seam. Stagnant processes inside the insulation are eliminated, figuratively speaking, it “breathes outward.” This is the mechanism of action of special materials to protect the main element of the assembly seam - insulation from the harmful effects of moisture.
However, moisture is not all that can affect the insulation and the entire installation seam. Let us dwell on two factors that have the most critical impact after humidity.
In second place is ultraviolet solar radiation. This radiation destroys the insulation ( polyurethane foam, is used in almost 100% of window installation cases) in a very short period of time. Thus, in the southern regions of Russia, the process of almost complete destruction of polyurethane foam can occur in a couple of months. IN middle lane it will take a year to a year and a half, depending on the direction of the world where the window structure is facing.
Conclusion - the insulation needs to be protected from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation. The problem is successfully solved by the same vapor-permeable waterproofing tape, which protects the insulation from direct impact water from the street side.
In third place is the linear expansion (movement) of the window structure due to temperature fluctuations (thermal expansion). And such movements are significant and can reach from 5 to 10, and in some cases even 15 percent of the width of the installation seam itself! In this case, the insulation does not suffer, since it is well resistant to deformation loads and, in addition, is glued to the wall and window frame. It is clear that the means of protecting it must be resistant to such colossal deformations.
Imagine, if you use a plaster solution or a solid sealant, at what moment it will collapse or come off the smooth plastic plane window frame? (GOST allows the use of certain types of acrylic sealants to protect the outer contour. These must be elastic (not dry completely), vapor-permeable materials with good adhesive abilities). Here again the same vapor-permeable waterproofing tape successfully solves the problem, since it is not afraid of movements of 15 or even 30 percent.
