Auxiliary devices for gluing wood products
The use of wood glue is mandatory for most joints used during the manufacture of various wood products. The connection must dry under force, and the amount of force can be created and adjusted using special devices. The most widespread are clamps and clamps; they can be purchased ready-made or made independently. The second option, in our deep conviction, is preferable. Why? Firstly, something received “almost for nothing” is always much nicer for us than something bought in a store for relatively more money. Secondly, during manufacturing you can take into account your own needs to the maximum extent; it is very difficult to choose the desired option in a store.
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How to make wooden clamps
Clamps are very often used during the manufacture of individual small furniture parts. The advantages include ease of use and manufacture, reliability of fixation and small sizes. The disadvantages include the inability to work with parts that have large linear dimensions. This is especially true for clamps industrial production, find large clamps very difficult, they are only available in large specialized stores. Are there such stores in big cities, many craftsmen do not have the opportunity to often travel to the city in search of the right tools and accessories.
The solution is to make a clamp yourself, especially since the matter is not so complicated. To make it, you will need several blocks or slats of hardwood and a minimum set of carpentry tools.
The thickness of the bar is within 30 mm, the thickness of the slats is within 10 mm. Cut out the front stop of the clamp in the form of a hammer, a clamping element and a device for fastening the screw handle from the block. Make a ruler from a thin strip, firmly connect the front stop to the ruler into a tongue/groove, be sure to use wood glue. The other two parts should have holes in which the ruler can easily move. As a clamping device, you can use any metal bolt of a suitable diameter with a large thread. The larger the thread and the longer the thread section in the screw stop, the greater the force that can be created when clamping parts.
There is a huge amount various types clamps, we settled on the simplest and most reliable. Other special clamps should be manufactured only by those specialists who are engaged in production large quantity identical products. Then you need to have special clamps for clamping corner connections“mustache” and ordinary ones, for clamping very small elements of wooden structures, etc. For most craftsmen, it is enough to have simple clamps; with their help, you can make most carpentry joints.
How to make weims
A clamp is a device that can be used to make glued joints over large areas. They are used during the manufacture of windows and doors, furniture panels and other products with large overall dimensions. Industrial wires are quite practical, but they are not always available, and the price of these devices may scare off some consumers. We will tell you how to make a rim from metal and wood.
Simple metal wedge
You will need a corner measuring at least 50x50 mm, several bolts and threaded stops. A frame is made from the angle, drill holes on it symmetrically at regular intervals, stops will be fixed in these holes to adjust the length of the parts to be glued. The picture shows how to weld metal screw clamps. We used standard ones, but you can use large bolts with permanently welded nuts. To increase stability to the guides, you need to weld the footrests, make them from scraps of corner. The principle of operation is very simple - after installing the part to be glued using wrench you need to tighten the bolts. Do not forget to place spacers between the wooden product and the metal stops.
The advantage of such a clamp is that you can clamp different sizes wooden structures. The disadvantage is the unevenness of the pressure along the length. You need to make several pieces or use very strong and rigid gaskets in the form of metal channels or I-beams.
Wooden wedge
Even more simple design, it can be made in just a few hours from waste lumber. Manufacturing material - wooden blocks 50×80 mm, length depends on the expected length of the elements to be glued. Select the number of bars taking into account the width of the products; the distance between the bars should not be more than 20 centimeters. The figure shows the manufacturing diagram; we will only describe some of the features of using a homemade wooden wedge.
There are two options for clamping the product: metal screws or wooden wedges. In order to use the first option, you need to find or purchase metal screws separately, but we do not recommend bothering with it. Clamping works well with wooden wedges. To do this, you need to prepare them first; during manufacturing, do not make the wedge angle very large - it will be difficult to hammer in and the risk of the clamps spontaneously falling out will increase.
Insert the part into the made fixture, using slats or boards of various widths, first reduce the gap between the part and top bar vaims. Drive wedges into the small gap formed between them. If you wish, you can slightly improve the device we offer. To do this, you should vertical racks drill through holes at regular intervals, they will make it possible to automatically adjust the gap between the workpiece and the upper horizontal bar, the wedges will be easier to select, and the fixation will be more stable. Another, simplest, clamping method is to use rubber bands and wrap them around the parts with tension.
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Any frame - large or small - has a “strict” design: it places serious demands on the squareness of the corners and their careful execution and connection. To simplify production and obtain quality frames with less labor, the French magazine "System D" offers two simple and convenient devices, which you can make yourself: a tablet for sawing bars or baguettes and a press for gluing workpieces.
Angle - not by eye
When making frame blanks, the most difficult thing is to cut them strictly at an angle of 45°. The tablet is designed to help, which will serve as a good addition to a small circular saw or a jigsaw and will replace the traditional device - a miter box, which is used when working with a hand hacksaw.
The tablet consists of a small wooden shield– a base and two thrust slats installed strictly at an angle of 90° to each other. The base of the tablet is a hardwood board with a thickness of 25 mm and dimensions of approximately 400x250 mm. Instead, furniture board or chipboard can be used.
A small cut is made on one side of the base - a gap into which the saw blade or jigsaw blade. On both sides of the cut, with an indentation equal to its width, two thrust bars are attached, the opposite ends of which are sawed off strictly at an angle of 45°. That's the whole tablet device. It is convenient to use it on a saw table, on which two parallel grooves are milled for this purpose, and two corresponding guides are attached to the bottom of the table. Thanks to them, the tablet can slide with slight friction along the guide grooves, strictly maintaining the direction of its feeding.
1 - base; 2 - guides; 3 – cut; 4 – thrust bars; 5 - screws
1 - tie with holes; 2 — locking square; 3 - protective gasket
The picture shows how the tablet with the frame blank is installed and how it is fed for sawing when the tablet moves along the guide grooves towards the saw.
In order to cut a baguette onto one side of the frame, you need to mark it inner dimensions pencil. The baguette is then pressed (from the outside) against the corresponding stop block so that the length mark is opposite the slot. Now, when the tablet moves towards the saw blade, the baguette is cut at an angle of 45° automatically. The ends of all other slats forming the frame are cut in the same way.
Gluing press
However, preparing the frame parts is still half the battle. The next task is to securely glue them together. A very simple press for assembling them will help out here. It consists of four ties - wooden slats made of hard wood with a cross section of 30x30 mm, with holes drilled in them with a diameter of 4 mm. The couplers are connected in pairs with each other using a loop - a connecting bar with dimensions of 100x30x30 mm and bolts and nuts (flush). In addition to the ties, four fixing angles are made. They are cut from hardwood blocks 30 mm thick. Each clamp has a spike at the bottom - a screwed-in screw with a diameter of 4 mm, with a cut off head.
1 — couplers (perforated slats); 2 - connecting loop; 3 — clamping angles; 4 - clamp
In order to activate the press, the ties are placed on a flat surface (table) in the shape of the letter X. Depending on the size of the frame, clamps are inserted into the corresponding holes in the ties. All that remains is to apply glue to the joints of the baguette slats to be joined “on the miter” and place them in the clamps. Now you only need one single clamp. With its help, the connecting bars of the ties are pulled together, and therefore the baguette ends in the clamps, ensuring their tight connection and holding them in the desired position until the glue sets.
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Clamps are an indispensable assistant every carpenter. It is difficult to imagine a master who is able to do his work without these devices. There are quite a few types of clamps and clamps, and manufacturers never cease to look for new solutions to make their tools even more convenient, functional and adapted to specific carpentry tasks.
In our material we will talk in detail about the main types of wood clamps: we will tell you what they are made of and how they work various models clamps, consider the advantages and disadvantages of each of them, and give useful tips on how to choose a clamp for specific carpentry tasks.
G-clamps
Design Features. G-shaped clamps, also often called C-shaped, are the most versatile and widespread type of carpentry clamps. The basis of the design is a cast or forged bracket with a movable clamping screw.
Advantages. L-shaped clamps are lightweight, easy to use, provide high clamping force, and have no backlash in the jaws.
Flaws. Suitable for joining workpieces of small thickness.
Application area. G-shaped clamps are used in cases where it is necessary to apply the same compression force to surfaces that are parallel to each other. IN carpentry C-clamps are used mainly when gluing wood.
F-clamps
Design Features. The clamp consists of a guide rail on which movable and fixed jaws are fixed. The movable clamp, sliding along the guide, has a set screw that allows you to adjust the desired grip length and prevents the clamp from loosening. The jaws are equipped with pads to protect the fixed surfaces.
Advantages. The main advantage of F-shaped clamps is their versatility. The adjustable grip length makes it possible to firmly and firmly fix workpieces of various thicknesses.
Flaws. It is not always convenient to work with an F-shaped clamp, because... To manipulate the tool you have to use both hands.
Application area. Used for fixation wooden products and blanks of various thicknesses.
End clamps
Design Features. The end clamp consists of a cast or forged base-bracket with three clamping screws.
Advantages. A simple and affordable design for solving specific carpentry tasks: a clamp with a T-shaped profile is used to clamp edges and ends.
Flaws. Despite all its functionality, managing an end clamp is not so easy: fixing an edge, simultaneously holding a clamp and tightening three clamps is not always convenient alone.
Application area. Clamping of edges and end elements of wooden products.
Angle clamps
Design Features. Clamps for corner joints can come in a variety of designs. A typical design consists of a body, one or two screw clamps with clamping heels.
Advantages. A simple and compact device for fixing workpieces at right angles. Such clamps are often supplemented with special holes for fastening to a workbench.
Flaws. Limited opportunities when working with large wooden elements.
Application area. Clamps for gluing and fixing wood at right angles. Creating miter connections.
Quick-release (automatic) clamps
Design Features. The typical design of a quick-release clamp consists of a metal tire and two plastic jaws (movable and fixed). The moving part is pressed using a special lever mechanism. The lightweight and durable body of quick-release clamps is made of glass fiber reinforced plastic composites. This allows automatic clamping to be used in almost any environment.
Advantages. One-handed options are perhaps the most convenient and ergonomic type of clamps. How to use such clamps is intuitive: all manipulations are performed with one hand, while the other holds the part. Even the smallest quick-release clamps have enormous clamping force.
Most lever models have a transformable design that expands the capabilities of the tool. For example, on some models you can turn the jaws in opposite directions to work sideways, which is very convenient when disassembling tenon joints. Two quick clamps can be easily rearranged into one long one by interlocking the protrusions on the fixed jaws.
Flaws. High-quality automatic clamps are quite expensive, and almost all budget analogues are not highly reliable.
Application area. Quick-release clamps are used for all types of carpentry work: from fixing small parts to gluing large panels.
Spring clamps
Design features. Clamps with unregulated clamping force, working on the principle of clothespins. A popular variation of the classic spring clamp are designs with variable clamping width.
Advantages. The clamps are lightweight and convenient; all manipulations when working with them are performed with one hand. They provide a stable, powerful clamping force. Optimal for delicate fixation of glued parts.
Flaws. Small grip depth.
Application area. A universal device for gluing and fixing oversized parts.
Band clamps
Design Features. The band clamp consists of a durable synthetic band and a tension block. The package usually includes plastic elements for adjusting corners.
Advantages. Provides gentle clamping of corners and curves without distortions, which is very important at the gluing stage. Allows you to work with products of any size: from small frames to large cabinets. The use of plastic corner elements ensures uniform pressure when gluing corners and miter joints.
Application area. Selection of band type clamps – best option for complex carpentry tasks: clamping large diameter rounds, fixing polygonal joints, etc.
Pipe clamps
Today I want to talk about how you can make your own device that will help you glue a photo frame...
To begin with, I suggest you watch the video of this homemade product:
So, if you want to make a beautiful wooden photo frame, or if your frame is broken and you want to fix it by gluing, then this article is just for you...
In order to make a frame, when gluing, you need to hold all 4 wooden rivers strictly at an angle of 90 degrees long time... Doing this with your hands is very inconvenient and extremely tiring, so in this article I will tell you how you can make a device so that the frame glues itself without your participation...
So, let's begin...
For this we will need:
- two ropes (“closed” - that is, “rings”);
- neck from a multi-liter bottle;
- steel wire in the shape of a snake;
To begin with, we make four slits in the neck and one or two holes in the side...
So, after you have coated the frame with glue, you need to fix it... To do this, put one of the ropes on one edge of the frame, then twist it and put it on the opposite corner of the frame...
We perform the same operation with the remaining corners of the frame and with the second rope... The result is the following design:
Next, carefully insert the ropes into the slots that we made earlier in the neck...
Next, using a snake wire, carefully push the ropes through the neck...
Now you need to tighten the ropes with rotating movements of the wire and, to fix it, insert the edges of the wire into the holes in the side of the neck as shown in the photo...
That's all!!! Our device for fixing glued photo frames is ready!!! Now you can calmly go about your business, knowing that the frame is sealed neatly at the right angle... Good luck!!!
Product distortions will be eliminated thanks to the correct working methods and devices.
You only have a few minutes to assemble the project pieces, line up the edges, and tighten the clamps. By the way, are you sure that all the angles are right? Using the right tools and accessories, as well as several useful tips, you'll be able to achieve perfect results every time without any fuss.
Assembly accuracy depends on the squareness of the parts, so before you start processing parts, make sure that your equipment (saw, planer, planer and other machines) is set up correctly. Then prepare a flat and clean surface for assembly. work surface. For successful work, master one or more proven techniques to help avoid distortions.
One part aligns with another
Dry assemble the box and rock it from side to side to make sure the bottom is inserted into the tongues to ensure a square assembly.
If all the parts in your project originally had right angles, they will align with each other when assembled, provided that the clamps are installed correctly. As shown in top photo, The hangers of the crossbars, cut exactly at right angles, automatically level the frame. The trick is to direct the compression force of the clamps perpendicular to the edges of the parts. If the clamp is placed at an angle, the pressure may cause it to become distorted.
Another way to make the assembly self-leveling is to have the plywood bottom or back panel fit snugly into the tongues or grooves to keep the box or body square (photo A).
Do you need gaps around the bottom or panels to compensate for seasonal humidity fluctuations?
To assemble a box with a bottom, insert the assembly template into it and secure it with clamps. The pressure of the clamps is distributed by pressure bars installed next to the connections, and not on top of them.
Make a simple assembly template that fits snugly into the drawer opening (photo B), and make cutouts on its corners so that it does not stick to the parts.
When assembling drawers where straight tenons protrude slightly at the corners, use spacers or pressure blocks as shown in (photo B), so that the jaws of the clamps do not touch the joints. This method is also useful when assembling dovetail joints.
According to the template
For precise alignment and fixation simple connections end-to-end it is convenient to use a metal mounting square (photo C), which holds the parts at right angles to each other and prevents them from moving. If you prefer homemade devices, make your own mounting brackets of any size (photoD). Quick tip! No mounting brackets? There is a way to ensure that the parts of a butt joint remain stationary when gluing. Apply glue to the end of one piece first, then press both pieces together, rubbing them together to distribute the glue. Separate them for 10-15 seconds, let the glue dry a little and become more viscous and sticky, and then rub the parts together again. Increasing the viscosity of the glue will help avoid shifting of parts when installing clamps.
This mounting bracket, thanks to its rounded outer corner fits tightly to both parts being glued.
When determining the dimensions of a homemade mounting square, make cutouts in it that match the jaws of the clamps you have.
Other homemade leveling devices are clamping bars or strips of arbitrary sizes with cutouts that hold parts in the desired position and at the same time distribute the pressure of the clamps (photo E). Prism bars with V-shaped grooves will help to tightly tighten the parts of the corner joints.
Cutouts in the clamping bars prevent the parts from shifting, and prism bars, tightened diagonally with clamps, compress the parts together.
The steel band of this clamp distributes pressure to all four corners, tightly tightening the joints of the jammed parts.
Some clamping fixtures Thanks to the design features, they help ensure the squareness of the gluing. For example, a band clamp with four corner blocks (photoF) and four-way screw clamp for frame assembly (photoG) Allows you to align all four corners at the same time.
Four-way screw clamps, commonly used for gluing frames, can be used in pairs to assemble drawers. Metal corner pieces help achieve squareness.
Compare the lengths of diagonals without measuring them with a tape measure
Even without a square that you can trust, you can check the squareness of the assembly by comparing the distances between opposite corners. If the diagonals are equal (and the opposite pieces are also the same length), you can be sure that all the angles are right. If clamps interfere with measurements using a tape measure, or if you are gluing several identical products, try a different method. Cut two thin slats from the scraps. The length of each of them should be more than half the length of the diagonals. Then cut one end of each strip at an angle of about 30°. Pressing the bevels against opposite inside corners of the assembly, fold the slats together and secure them with a clamp. Then use the same straightening rod to measure the other diagonal to ensure the assembly is square. To correct the distortion, use a long clamp to carefully tighten opposite corners along a longer diagonal.
