Remontant strawberries: planting and care, cultivation and diseases. Spring protection of garden plants from pests and diseases

Growing remontant strawberries has its own rules and nuances. Caring for it requires a competent approach and constant work. All efforts will pay off in that the berries can be picked several times a year, and the bushes will not lose their ability to bear fruit for 3-4 years, which is considered a very high indicator.

Types of remontant strawberries

Remontant strawberry varieties can be grouped into several types.

• Long daylight varieties (LDC)– this group includes those that form flowers and set berries only when the daylight hours are at least 10 hours. The first flowers and ovaries appear in mid-June, and the berries become ripe in late June - early July. The second wave of flowering occurs in mid-August, and berries can be collected almost throughout September. The berries are large, the pulp is aromatic and sweet. The disadvantage of this type of strawberry is that it becomes very depleted over the course of a year, which is why it does not overwinter well, and sometimes requires a complete renewal in the next season. Caring for it involves constant feeding and monitoring the growth of the mustache.
• Day Neutral Varieties (NDN)– these varieties bear fruit no matter how long the day is. On one plantation you can simultaneously see flowers, ovaries, green and red berries. This type of strawberry is more suitable for fruiting all year round, and if care is regular, then the harvest from one bush can be harvested for at least three years. The main modern varieties belong specifically to this type of strawberry.

Strawberries also differ in that some varieties produce mustaches, while others do not. In the former, reproduction can occur due to the separation and transplantation of rosettes formed at the ends of the whiskers. The latter reproduce by dividing the bushes, on which several divisions are formed with a separate growth point.

The varieties of strawberries that form mustaches also differ from each other: in some, most of the berries are set on mother plants, while in others, on daughter rosettes. The care for these varieties is different - in some the whiskers are removed, which increases fruiting, while in others it is not.

When planting remontant strawberries, you must take a responsible approach to choosing a variety, taking into account all its features, so as not to make mistakes in growing and caring for it.

Methods for propagating remontant strawberries

There are several ways to propagate remontant strawberries:

• seeds;
• rosettes formed on the tendrils produced by the mother plant;
• by dividing the bush (more often used in those varieties that do not have mustaches).

The method of propagation by seeds is more labor-intensive, and you may not be able to wait for berries next year. But it is suitable if you want to plant a new variety on your site.

Propagation by means of mustaches and dividing the bush is effective; it allows you to quickly rejuvenate the garden bed completely, plant bushes in places where the strawberries have not overwintered, and get a harvest this year.

To collect berries all year round, it is recommended to plant several types of strawberries in one area: regular ones, which bear fruit in early summer, varieties of the NSD group and several bushes of the DSD group. Berries will be on your table from the first days of June until the end of September.

Propagation by seeds

When propagating remontant strawberries by seeds, use. The time for sowing seeds is February or the first days of March.

You can choose more late date, but then the seedlings will have to be planted in the summer, and in hot weather it will be necessary painstaking care: frequent watering, protection from the scorching sun, spraying. The survival rate of seedlings will not be one hundred percent.

If you were late with sowing seeds in February, then it is better to grow the seedlings in the summer and plant them in the garden in early September, but not later.

Sowing seeds

Seeds are sown in loose, moist soil, sprinkled with dry soil and covered with cellophane. Place on a sunny windowsill - the place should be warm. At a temperature of about +20°, the first shoots will appear in three weeks.

The cellophane is immediately removed, the container with the seedlings is transferred to a cooler place, but the lighting should be bright. It is advisable to install additional lighting, then the bushes will not stretch out.

Seedling care

Caring for seedlings is simple:

• watering;
• lighting control - it should be at least 10 hours a day;
• ventilation of the room.

At this stage, strawberries grow slowly; picking is carried out no earlier than after two months.

When the seedlings have 4-5 true leaves, they need to be transplanted into separate cups. For good development of the root system, a glass volume of 200 ml is sufficient.

When transplanting, seedlings should not be deepened. The growing point should be at ground level.

After picking, caring for the seedlings should continue in the same way as before.

Planting in the garden

Young strawberries are planted in the garden when the weather is consistently warm - without night frosts and cold morning fogs. IN middle lane this time falls in mid-May, in more northern regions - at the beginning of June.

Before planting, be sure to accustom the strawberries to the sun's rays. They start with several hours, increasing the hardening time daily.

When replanting, you must ensure that the center of the bush (heart) is not buried. It should not rise above ground level either, because this will lead to the roots drying out and the seedling dying.

At spring planting The berries may begin to set this year, but only closer to autumn.

Planting of bushes is carried out according to the pattern 25x25 cm in checkerboard pattern, while only 4 rows of strawberries are possible in one bed.

Can be planted in rows in two lines. Leave 20 cm between bushes in a line, and 60 cm between rows.

Reproduction by mustache

After the strawberries bear fruit for the first time in a season, the most powerful tendrils are left, and all the rest are cut off. When several rosettes form on the tendrils, choose the largest one, which is usually located closer to the mother plant. All others are removed so that they do not take away some of the nutrients.

When roots appear on the rosettes, they are buried in the ground, but not separated from the main bush. This can be done only in August, two weeks before transplantation to a permanent place.

At autumn transplant young bushes quickly take root and adapt to new conditions. They produce berries as early as next summer, and harvesting occurs all year round without interruption.

Dividing strawberry bushes

For division, choose a large healthy bush, in which several divisions with separate growth points are noticeably visible. It is advisable that the strawberries be 2 or 3 years old. The bush is carefully dug up and divided using a sharp, clean knife. Those parts that have good roots - at least three of them - are transplanted to a new place.

When dividing a bush, berries will form on it the very next year, regardless of what time of year the division was carried out.

Selecting a location and preparing the bed

In order for the yield to be high all year round, and caring for strawberries to be easy, you need to choose a suitable place for it. Strawberries prefer loose, light soils containing sand. The soil is preferably slightly acidic or neutral. The area should be illuminated by the sun all day. Strawberries will not grow on heavy, highly acidic soils, even if proper care is provided.

Although strawberries moisture-loving plant and the largest number of ovaries is formed with sufficient watering; it does not tolerate stagnation of water and dies.

Place for strawberries is prepared in advance. If planting is planned in the spring, then the bed is prepared in the fall; if the seedlings are planted in September, then the bed should be taken care of in May:

1. the bed is cleared of weeds, their roots are selected;
2. contribute organic fertilizers: for 1 m2, one bucket of well-rotted manure or decomposed compost and half a bucket of ash is enough;
3. digging is carried out using a full bayonet shovel;
4. To prevent weeds from growing in the garden bed in the summer, it is covered with black agrofibre and left there until planting begins.

15-20 days before planting is planned, a complex of mineral fertilizers is applied. You can buy it ready-made, or you can make it yourself using just two ingredients.

• potassium sulfate – 1 tablespoon;
• superphosphate - 2 tablespoons.

Caring for remontant strawberries

Care remontant strawberries more labor-intensive than usual. It includes many mandatory events.

• Frequent watering to keep the soil moist.
• Loosening the soil as soon as it dries out a little after watering.
• Removing the whiskers if they do not produce berries and there are no plans to reproduce by daughter rosettes.
• Mulching with hay, straw, grass clippings, sawdust or pine needles will reduce the frequency of watering, the need for loosening will disappear, and the berries will not be splashed with soil after rains.
• In order for remontant strawberries to bear fruit all year round, they must be fed frequently. Fertilizers are applied after the first harvest, and the next time - when new flower stalks appear. Fertilizing with mullein infusion (1:10) or bird droppings (1:20) has worked well.
• The foliage of remontant strawberries is not removed after the first fruiting. Only those leaves that have begun to dry out, are covered in spots, or are heavily thickening the plantings are trimmed.
• The leaves are cut off in the fall after the last berries have been collected and the foliage has begun to dry out. In regions with cold winters, it is better to postpone this procedure to the spring and remove the leaves after the last snow has melted.
• In cold winters, it is advisable to cover the beds with white agrofibre, but it must be removed at the first warming.

Conclusion

With proper constant care, remontant strawberries bear fruit regularly, but their lifespan does not exceed three years, and plantings require renewal. Autumn is best for planting, because at this time most of the seedlings take root, and the next season, in the second half of summer, you can already pick berries.

On French the word "remontant" means "to rise again" or "to bloom again." Remontant varieties of berries are distinguished by their ability to bloom and delight with fruits throughout the season. This property is inherent in raspberries, strawberries, wild strawberries and even citrus crops. Gardeners are in particular demand for remontant strawberries, which bear fruit twice during the growing season. And here they are easy to understand: who doesn’t like a double harvest of their favorite berry?

Strawberries of this variety differ from others in that already after the first fruiting, buds are laid and new berries are formed, which will become the next full-fledged harvest. But nothing happens for nothing. Due to their fertility, remontant strawberries have higher requirements for self-care, soil quality and watering, which must be done more often, unlike ordinary garden strawberries. However, if you calculate the average number of berries per bush, then remontant strawberries are inferior to more traditional garden ones.

But as practice shows, gardeners have an irresistible desire to harvest strawberries out of season, so they are ready to lovingly care for remontant strawberries. Growing this variety can provide the owner with a harvest of strawberries from mid-spring to late autumn.

Remontant strawberries, when compared with garden ones, have weaker foliage and smaller size berries.

The reason for this is the overload of the harvest, because the plant is subject to serious stress, yielding crops twice a season. Judging by observations, the first batch of fruits produced turns out to be much less productive than the next. Typically the ratio is between 30 and 70%, with 30% being the first harvest.

It also happens that some bushes of this strawberry die after the first batch of harvest. At best conditions A remontant strawberry bush can last 3 years.

In order for the second harvest to be as rich as possible, it is necessary to be able to properly limit the initial one. For these purposes, flower stalks are pruned.

How to plant remontant strawberries

People who are attracted to growing remontant strawberries should know that planting and care are carried out in a certain way.

As usual, the first step is to choose the variety you want. This can only be done by sampling the berries, so you should grow several at once, and then make the final choice.

For planting remontant strawberries, the most suitable soil is the one used for growing vegetable crops. To prepare such soil, you need to add 750 ml of water to 1 kg of soil mixture, and then mix thoroughly (there should be no lumps), then its moisture content will be 70-80%.

The next step is to fill a dense container (10-15 cm in diameter) with pre-prepared soil, leaving about 3 cm of space on top.

Strawberry seeds are scattered on top, then they should be sprinkled with dry soil and sprinkled with water from a spray bottle. In order for as many sprouts as possible to appear, the seeds must be exposed to sunlight.

The containers must be covered with a transparent polyethylene film on top and placed in a warm place. At the end of 3 weeks, the first shoots will appear; they require periodic watering.

It is customary to plant seedlings of remontant strawberries on beds that have been cleared of weeds in advance, loosened and fertilized in early May. This is done as follows: a hole is dug in the garden bed, it is watered with water, the roots are sprinkled with a special preparation and planted in the hole. The soil near the seedlings should be well compacted.

Caring for blooming strawberries

Growing remontant strawberries involves performing some simple steps. For example, a gardener must know when to prune and how to care for remontant strawberries. But in order to provide the roots with much-needed air exchange, you should constantly loosen the soil near the bushes. You need to add soil periodically to keep the roots from becoming exposed. This variety of strawberries needs to be watered not only with a watering can, but also with a ladle.

When the bushes bloom, they must be fertilized with minerals intended for strawberries and an infusion of bird droppings.

It is recommended to constantly weed. If berries are found lying on the ground, they must be lifted using a special wire support. Regular cutting of the tendrils helps to increase the size of the berries.

If aphids are found on strawberries, they are fought with a special solution, the ingredients of which are several cloves of garlic and 3 liters of water. This solution needs to be infused for a week, after which the bushes are treated with a spray bottle.

To get rid of unnecessary attention to your wasp berries, cups of sweet compote are placed around.

When planting in the fall, tearing off the first-order tendrils from the bushes is highly not recommended. Instead, they should be rooted in disposable plastic cups filled with earth. The cups are collected at the end of the season, then they are separated from the mother plant and planted in the garden. The distance between the bushes should be about 20 cm. They need to be watered very little. Remontant strawberries should survive the first frosts, after which all leaves from the bushes are cut off, and the bushes themselves are covered with something non-woven.

Strawberries are the oldest berry; archaeologists find traces of them in sediments that are more than 60 million years old. But it became a garden crop only in the 15th century; before that, people were content with a generous forest harvest. And modern breeders have made the dream of our ancestors a reality - they have developed remontant varieties of strawberries, the fruiting of which lasts from early summer until late autumn, due to which they are distinguished by impressive yields. Remontant strawberries are incredibly popular among gardeners, but if you decide to grow this berry in your garden, you need to prepare for the need to carefully care for it, because the plant requires a lot of attention. Let's take a closer look at the rules for planting and caring for remontant strawberries.

Strawberries of remontant varieties differ from their forest relatives, first of all, by an increased fruiting period. That is, as soon as one fruiting cycle ends, it is immediately replaced by the next. Thanks to the efforts of breeders, wild strawberries have acquired many beneficial properties, which facilitate the procedure of its cultivation, but at the same time they managed to leave unchanged the taste and aroma inherent in the wild berry.

Among the advantages of remontant strawberries are:

1. High yields. Modern varieties begin to bear fruit 2 weeks earlier than classic ones, and thanks to their frost resistance, they yield until late autumn.
2. Cold resistance. Even if the inflorescences are damaged due to frost, new ones will quickly grow in their place.
3. Large fruit size, compared to wild berries.
4. Taste and color variety. There are varieties with yellow or white berries.
5. Disease resistance and insect pests.

But these varieties also have their own disadvantages, which are associated with the difficulties of caring for them:

1. The berry will produce a large harvest only in the first few years, then it will begin to deplete. In order for the plant to constantly actively bear fruit, it replantation required every 2-3 years.
2. Remontant varieties are more demanding of moisture, nutrition and lighting. With absence necessary conditions, the fruits will become smaller and yields will decrease.
3. Such strawberries grown only by seedlings.

Thus, remontant varieties of strawberries bring a lot of trouble to gardeners, but they are more than compensated by the advantages of the plant. Growing berries has specific characteristics, so before you start growing them in your garden, it is necessary to gain knowledge about planting and proper care of these varieties of strawberries.

Rules for planting in open ground

Sowing of remontant strawberries begins early - at the end of February, or in the first week of March. It is carried out as follows:

1. Pour into seedling container loose soil and pour water over it.
2. Spread the seeds evenly over the surface and press lightly into the ground with your fingers. There is no need to fill it with earth.
3. Cover the container with glass to create a greenhouse effect and place it on the windowsill.
4. Moisten the soil periodically from a spray bottle and lift the glass for ventilation.

Strawberry seeds take a long time to hatch - from 20 to 30 days. When the sprouts hatch and 3 leaves appear on them, the seedlings need to be plucked.

Plant strawberries on open ground you can immediately, as soon as the night frosts stop.

The plant is capricious regarding its planting location. If cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage or potatoes were previously grown in this place, then the berries will not grow there. It is better to choose an area where beans, garlic, dill or parsley previously grew. Also, the soil after bulbous flowers - tulips, hyacinths, crocuses - will contribute to a rich harvest of berries.

Most in the best possible way planting is considered to be a two-line bush plant. It will relieve thickening and protect the plant from fungal infections.. With this method, a distance of 30 cm is left between two lines in the tape, and 70 cm between the tapes themselves. In rows, the bushes are planted at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other.

The combined planting method, when strawberries are alternated with other crops, is also popular among gardeners. Most often, garlic acts as its neighbor, which protects strawberries from the invasion of slugs.

The technology for directly planting bushes in the ground includes the following steps:

1. Loosen the soil in the garden bed and form holes in it 25 cm wide, long and deep.
2. Thoroughly water the holes water.
3. Apply fertilizer to the soil. On a bucket of soil, take a bucket of compost mixed with vermicompost in the amount of 2 liters. You can also add 2 cups of ash there.
4. Plant the seedlings. Spread the roots, they are buried vertically. In this case, the apical bud is located strictly above the surface.
5. Water the planted bushes water.
6. Mulch the ground thin layer . To do this, use dried grass, pine needles, compost, but not straw, it is too hard for young plants.

That's it, most of the work is done. Now all that remains is to create conditions for active fruiting with the help of proper care.

Features of growing and caring for remontant varieties of strawberries

Plant care includes the following components:

• watering and fertilizing;
• weeding;
• mulching;
• protection from diseases and insects;
• planting too dense plantings.

Watering is especially important at the stage of bush development, so in the absence of rain, strawberries need regular watering throughout the summer.

During the flowering period, watering should be more abundant than during the fruiting period. If you pour the plant while the berries are ripening, they will be unsweetened.

Due to long-term fruiting, remontant strawberries need feeding more than other varieties. Until the green berries appear, bushes are fed with infused slurry (1:8). Ash is also added there - 250 g per 10 liters. To fertilize a 5-meter row you will need 10 liters of fertilizer.

Next time you can feed the plants when they begin to bloom en masse. Treatment with boron, manganese and zinc (2 g of each substance per 10 liters of water) will improve fruit set and increase fruit weight. Spraying is carried out only in the evening.

Mulching will greatly help simplify caring for strawberries. For adult plants, straw or rotted sawdust is used for this purpose.

Using mulch provides many benefits:

• retains moisture in the ground, which reduces the number of waterings;
• provides air access to the roots of the plant, so there is no need to constantly loosen the soil;
• holds back weed growth;
• protects berries from decay.

It is also important to protect strawberries from diseases. Most often, this plant is subject to the following diseases: powdery mildew, gray rot and late blight.

For plant prevention sprayed with Bordeaux mixture or garlic infusion. It is also necessary to regularly clear the bushes of old leaves.

Common pests on strawberries include slugs and snails.. From them, the plant needs to be sprinkled with a mixture of tobacco dust and ash (1:1), or dry superphosphate should be spread around the bed.

Slugs damage remontant strawberries

All of these activities provide the basic care that any plant needs. But remontant strawberries also have their own specific requirements.

Pruning bushes in autumn and preparing plants for winter

In the fall, after the end of the fruiting period, strawberries are pruned. Foliage, tendrils and rosettes rob the plant of the strength it needs to accumulate for the next flowering. Therefore, if you want to get a good harvest next year, this procedure is necessary.

You need to trim the leaves immediately after harvesting the last harvest, so that by winter the bushes have time to acquire fresh leaves, which will act as a natural heat insulator. If you missed the moment and new leaves do not have time to grow before the onset of cold weather, it is better to leave the old foliage and cancel the pruning.

Leaves and tendrils are cut off at the very base so that harmful insects do not appear in their remains. Send the cut parts of the plant to compost pit, just carefully inspect them for pests or diseases; they may need to be burned.

After pruning the planting, you need to preventive measures treat with insecticides. And so that new foliage has time to grow before winter, the plants must be watered regularly. You can also feed the roots with organic fertilizers.

In the central and northern regions, beds are insulated for the winter using a layer of manure or fallen leaves, at least 5 cm thick. But better protection snow is a relief from cold weather for strawberries. To make its layer thicker, place tree branches between the beds. They retain snow well and form high snowdrifts.

These are the main points regarding the cultivation of remontant strawberries. After studying them, all that remains is to choose for yourself specific varieties, which, according to currently, a lot has been brought out.

The best varieties of remontant strawberries

Arapaho

American variety. The first harvest is late June - mid-July, and from the second half of July the second flowering period begins. The second time it bears fruit until the end of September. High-yielding variety - up to 300 g of berries are collected from one bush. The fruit size is medium (10 g), round in shape, bright red in color. The berries have a sweet and sour taste and delicate juicy pulp, the smell is weak. This variety has no a large number of mustache and high resistance to cold.

Bordurella

Strawberries come from France. It blooms for the first time at the end of May, the second time at the end of July. Fruits until the beginning of frost. Good yield (300 g per bush). The fruits are medium-sized, shiny, bright red. Few whiskers are formed.

Remontantnaya Crimean

A variety bred in Simferopol. It has average yields, but very large berries. In the first harvest it reaches 40 g. Fruits are round, dark rich shade, with juicy and sweet pulp. The variety is resistant to gray mold disease.

Temptation

This variety is distinguished by its large fruit size. Their average weight is 15-20 g, but reaches up to 35 g. Fruiting lasts from the end of May until the first frost. The berries are incredibly sweet, with a dense texture and bright aroma. It is highly decorative due to its elongated peduncles and is suitable for growing in pots on window sills or insulated balconies.

Rapella

The most popular variety in Europe. Bred by Dutch breeders. In the first harvest, the berries reach a weight of 20 g. The pulp has a dessert taste, dark red. The main advantage of the variety is resistance to late blight.

Diva F1

It has powerful bushes with high peduncles, which simplifies harvesting. The berries are very beautiful - large, correct form, noble scarlet shade. They have an excellent sugary taste and high transportability. The variety is winter-hardy.

Super-production

Another variety of American origin. Its main advantage is resistance to disease powdery mildew and spotting. It has a fairly large berry size - up to 25g. The fruits are conical in shape and have a sweet and sour taste. Frost resistance is high.

Evie 2

One of the favorite varieties of gardeners. Incredibly high-yielding - from 10 sq.m.. The fruits are large, spherical in shape, and are considered the most delicious and juicy of all remontant varieties.

Whichever of the existing remontant varieties you choose, with the right agricultural technology, the plant will provide you delicious berries throughout almost the entire summer and autumn. Besides, these varieties are very similar in taste to wild berries , therefore, with a little effort, you will arrange a real forest clearing on your site.

For good fruiting of strawberries, year-round care for this crop is required. After harvesting, strawberry bushes require special care to restore. With proper preventive maintenance, strawberries increase fruiting by at least 15-30 percent.

The fruits become larger, juicier and sweeter. Any variety of simple or remontant strawberry is grateful for care, and berries grown with your own hands are strikingly different from store-bought ones.

How to properly care for strawberries after fruiting

Care after picking berries in July

In July, after fruiting of strawberries, care corresponding to this period is carried out, these are:

• mustache trimming,
• dried leaves,
• weeding,
• feeding,
• hilling strawberries.

In July, after picking berries, the plants begin to grow new leaves, form new horns, the growth of tendrils with lateral rosettes intensifies, and new flower buds are laid.

First, the beds are weeded. Excess tendrils and dried leaves are removed. Reddened leaves are removed first. You cannot tear off the foliage and mustache, you can only cut it, otherwise the bush will be damaged and will hurt.

For pruning, use sharp scissors or pruning shears. It is better to burn old leaves to prevent the proliferation of pests. If young leaves curl or take on a corrugated shape, this is an indicator of strawberry mite infestation and the plants should be treated with acaricidal preparations.

If the central leaves turn yellow and the petioles are thickened and short, this is a sign of a nematode. At the same time, the plant is dug up, treated with boiling water and removed from the site.

After pruning, old mulch is removed from the beds. The soil around the strawberries is loosened, fertilized, and watered.

The row spacing is loosened to a depth of 10 centimeters. Around the plants, loosening is carried out to a depth of 5 centimeters. The bushes are sprucing up.

In this case, the roots must be completely covered, and top part the bush should remain above the ground. This is especially true for plants that have been growing for several years, since they root system begins to protrude above the ground.

Taken for feeding mineral fertilizers with an admixture of microelements. There are about 30 grams of fertilizer per square meter. A special fertilizer for garden strawberries, Fertika, ammophoska, is suitable for this.

Fertilizers containing potassium chloride cannot be used, as it slows down growth and impairs fruiting. Fertilizers are embedded in the soil to a depth of about 6 centimeters.

In addition to these fertilizers, you can use last year's humus. It crumbles on top. It will improve the soil structure and make it more fertile.

You can also fertilize the beds with diluted chicken droppings(15 parts water and 1 part litter). When feeding, we must not forget that this solution should not get on the foliage, otherwise burns will appear on the plants, which provokes the development of diseases. A high concentration of the solution can completely destroy the bush. That's why this type fertilizing is not used so often.

In dry weather, the beds are watered. Soil moisture should be maintained until the end of the season. Watering is done once a week with a bucket per square meter.

For better effect Drip irrigation can be used. This type of watering will allow you to receive the right amount of moisture and at the same time the plants will not rot, since the soil will not become waterlogged.

The soil around the bushes is mulched with chopped grass, peat, and straw.

Caring for strawberries in August

To get a bountiful strawberry harvest next year proper care is required. The last month of summer is best suited for this.

Care includes:

• pruning leaves,
• mustache transplant,
• preparing plants for winter.

Old leaves are cut off. If varieties grow in groups, they are processed first early varieties. Then come the middle and late varieties, this will allow you to evenly care for the plants and will not allow them to outgrow, which leads to the threat of infection with diseases and pests.

The mustache is cut off at a distance of 10 centimeters from the base of the bush. After pruning, young foliage and the core (horns) remain on the bush.

The mustaches with new rosettes and young roots are planted to form young bushes. For this purpose, the strongest specimens are selected, and the weak ones are removed.

For better yield, after harvesting, the strongest tendril remains on the bush. A new mother bush will grow from it to replace the old one. This operation is performed every three years.

And the spots are treated with therapeutic and preventive spraying of strawberries.

For spraying the following preparations are used: Karbofos or Actellik, this is protection against weevils and strawberry mites; Azocene and Topaz are used for the prevention and control of powdery mildew; one percent lime solution and copper sulfate saves bushes and berries from rot and spotting.

Feeding the bushes during this period increases the degree of frost resistance of the plant and promotes the formation of flower buds.

Feeding with fertilizers

For fertilizers, fertilizers with nitrogen are used (a strong urea solution is not suitable).
Complex mineral fertilizers should include: 1 part nitrogen, 2 parts phosphorus, 4 parts potassium. IN ready-made version, it could be: Fusco, Autumn, Autumn. All these preparations contain other beneficial substances in addition to the base.

The Autumn fertilizer does not contain nitrogen, which allows it to be used even at a later period, but this preparation contains all the elements that are necessary for the growth and good fruiting of strawberries.

Suitable organic fertilizers include: peat, horse manure in granules, humus, bone meal.

Bird droppings are not used to avoid excess nitrogen.

Mineral and organic fertilizers should not be mixed. In rare cases, when the soil is depleted, mineral and organic fertilizers are applied over the entire area of ​​the beds. If the strawberry planting area is quite large, this mixture can also be used.

After feeding, the plants are covered with mulch, and for wintering the bushes are covered with leaves, pine needles, potato tops, and straw. Dry weather is chosen for shelter, otherwise the layer may cake and cause the formation of pests and diseases inside the layer or lead to root rot.

The layer of mulch protecting plants from frost should be at least 7 centimeters. In addition to mulch, non-woven material, such as spunbond, is used.

Caring for remontant strawberries after picking berries

Remontant strawberries differ from standard varieties in that they produce several harvests per year. Proper care not only guarantees bountiful harvests, but also the formation of new bushes, which allows you to quickly grow this variety on the site.

To get the second and third good result, flower stalks must be thinned out.

After each fruiting, reddened and diseased leaves are removed from the bushes. The first order whiskers remain on the mother bush. It is best to root them in prepared cups for further planting. After the end of the season, the cups are collected, the tendrils are cut off from the main bush and they can be planted in prepared beds.

When caring for remontant strawberries, watering should be done more often than when watering standard varieties, but less abundantly. For irrigation, it is better to use heated water. The soil should be moist, but not waterlogged, otherwise the strawberry root system may begin to rot.

Remontant varieties of strawberries are demanding of fertilizers and must be constantly supplied with potassium and nitrogen. When preparing the soil for planting new plants, phosphorus fertilizers are added.

After collecting the last autumn harvest it is necessary to cut off all the foliage and flower stalks from the plants and cover the bushes with a special non-woven material, which will protect plants from frost.

Remontant strawberries, in comparison with simple varieties, have a short life span and after two years the plants must be replaced by new ones. Some varieties do not produce whiskers and are easier to care for, but they use seeds to propagate them, which complicates the breeding process.

July and August are suitable for renewing strawberry plantations. By autumn the bushes take root and easily endure the winter.

In preparation for winter, flower stalks and leaves are torn off from the mother bushes. The bushes are earthed up so that the roots are covered with soil. But the core must remain open, otherwise it will begin to rot. The prepared beds are covered with leaves and grass.

Repair strawberry except standard method can grow on trellises, columns, and tunnels.

To protect plants, protective plants, such as corn, are planted on trellises on both sides of the strawberries, which remain overwinter and additionally save the strawberries from freezing.

After the last fruiting, the strawberries are covered with breathable non-woven material, which saves the plantings from freezing. When grown in tunnels, fruiting lasts until the first frost.

During the warm period of Indian summer, the covering material is raised on one side for air circulation. Even when temperatures drop under the material, strawberries fully ripen and do not lose their taste.

And remontant, and this especially applies to the period after fruiting, as the plants become depleted, grow and may begin to hurt.

With careful and careful care, the yield increases, the size of the berries of even small varieties becomes larger, the fruits are saturated with moisture and sweetness.

And in every region, even quite cool ones, you can choose suitable option, which will delight you with a tasty and aromatic harvest.

Every gardener grows not only vegetables on his plot. Here you can find both fruits and berries. Such favorite crops include strawberries. Adults and children admire its taste. And you also need to grow it correctly, because if it doesn’t have enough nutrients, it won’t produce good harvest. Let's look at how strawberries should be cared for after fruiting.

Characteristic

Everyone knows strawberries. This plant can be recognized by its appearance:

• low-growing bushes, the height of which does not exceed 35 cm;
• straight stems with slight fluff;
• during flowering, white buds with 5 petals are formed;
• The fruits have a bright red color and a delicious aroma.

There are a large number of varieties. They all have their own ripening period. The earliest of these occurs in May and can last until early autumn.

So that the plant gives big harvest, you need to properly care for it. The main stages of preparation include:

• watering;
• weeding;
• hilling;
• loosening;
• feeding

But what about plants from which you have harvested the entire harvest? Under no circumstances should you throw them here. It is necessary to carry out further care for strawberries in the summer, after fruiting. And our task is to find out how this is done.

Happy moving

The main thing you can do with a plant after harvesting is to replant it. First you must prepare right place under the berries. It must meet the following requirements:

• the soil is well-groomed, dug, fertilized;
• The place where onions, legumes or garlic grew is ideal;
• Use organic matter, such as bird droppings or humus, to fertilize your garden beds.

You can replant the shoots that the berry produces. It is better to dig up old bushes and throw them away. It is recommended to carry out the procedure on a cloudy day, when there is no strong sun. If the weather is clear, it is better to postpone the transplant until the evening. Moisten the transplanted bushes well.

If you think that caring for strawberries after fruiting ends here, then you are deeply mistaken. It's still just beginning.

Sanitation of bushes

As you know, the most popular berry in the countryside is considered garden strawberry. Care after fruiting will help restore the plant's strength for next year. During this period, active leaf growth begins. At this time, we begin to think about the future harvest and do everything according to our instructions. After picking the berries, if there is no need to replant the plants, you need to hygienic treatment By to the following principle. The very first step is to weed the berry beds to remove weeds. Remove everything well and loosen the soil.

1. You need to cut out all the tendrils and old leaves. At the same time, leave the young shoots that managed to emerge.
2. Be sure to clear the berry soil of dry leaves. Serious carriers of infections and various diseases may remain on it.
3. If you notice that young shoots have taken on a painful appearance, do not rush to get rid of them. You can try treating strawberries with colloidal sulfur.
4. The next important step is to loosen the beds. This cannot be done in the immediate vicinity of the bushes, since their root system is located on the surface. The soil must be loosened thoroughly, between the rows, to a depth of about 15 cm.

You and I gradually found out what it means to care for strawberries after fruiting. Pruning bushes is included in the list of measures. Don't be afraid to do this procedure. The berries will not suffer from this, but will only benefit and produce a good harvest in the new season.

Nutrition

Basic care for strawberries after fruiting includes feeding the bushes with various fertilizers. First of all, you need to add mineral preparations. For each square meter beds need 30-40 grams of substances. Ideal for special ready-made mixtures preparations that are made specifically for berries. In addition, use:

• ammophoska, it contains such necessary substances as phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium;
• humus;
• compost.

The only enemy of strawberries is chlorine. Avoid fertilizers that contain this substance. But after applying fertilizers, you need to thoroughly moisten the soil.

Watering according to all rules

Let's move on to the next procedure, which is part of the basic care of strawberries after fruiting. Ganichkina, a well-known agricultural technician, recommends paying special attention to watering. She gives some advice on this matter:

1. Moisten the soil after each application of fertilizer. This will help nutrients quickly dissolve and absorb into the ground.
2. To prevent a crust from forming on the soil, sprinkle the bed with peat.
3. It is necessary to keep the soil moist throughout the season. Under no circumstances should you flood the bushes so that they do not begin to rot.
4. Humidification should be carried out as needed. Watering should be plentiful. Superficial moisturizing will do no good.
5. After each watering, loosen the soil, weed out weeds and be sure to remove the tendrils. Strawberry bushes should not waste their strength and juices on them.

Preparing for the autumn-winter period

You have already spent a lot of time and effort on all the care for your strawberries after fruiting. And most importantly, you don’t need to stop there. An important period lies ahead. Autumn and winter are the main enemies of berries. So that you can see the plants in good health in the new season, make preparations:

1. In autumn, you can stop moistening the soil. But don't stop at weed and weed control.
2. Cover all bushes with a layer of straw. It will protect the plants from future frosts.
3. The rows between the strawberries can be lined with grass. It will not only warm you up, but also act as fertilizer in early spring.

We have looked at how to care for standard plant varieties. It is worth paying attention to repairers.

From May to November

Modern breeders offer gardeners the most interesting varieties. One of these is the remontant berry. With its help, you can harvest several times a season. To have a lot of berries, you need to carry out proper care for remontant strawberries after the first fruiting. It is as follows:

1. Constantly loosen the bushes so that the roots remain in the ground.
2. After you have harvested the first harvest of ripe berries, feed the bushes with mineral fertilizers.
3. Water as needed.
4. To prevent the berries from spoiling, keep the bed covered with a special black material. Moisture passes through it well and is very difficult - various insects and weeds.

Now you know how to properly care for strawberries. The quality and quantity of tasty and aromatic berries depends on these important procedures.