Many types of platbands are used in the interior. They differ in the material from which they are made, their shape, color and quality. Typically, either wooden or plastic platbands are used to frame doors or windows.
According to their shape, platbands can be divided:
- Flat - have a simple, uncomplicated appearance, and are most often used.
- Rounded – the frontal part of the frame has a rounded appearance.
- Curly - can combine various shapes. They look very unusual and quite attractive.
The material from which the planks are made can be very diverse:
- Wood is the most common material, as it is environmentally friendly and inexpensive.
- Plastic - made in any color and shape. The most durable material and quite easy to install.
- Metal - allows you to experiment with the most unusual patterns and create different shapes.
The frame is also classified according to the type of carving.
- Welted - the pattern is made across the entire area of the plank.
- Overlay – the finished pattern is nailed or glued to the finished background.
According to the method of mounting the platband, there are only two types.
- Overlays - mounted on the doorway.
- Telescopic - they have spouts that, during installation, are inserted into the holes of the door frame.
How to cut off a casing using a miter box
To work you will need the following tools:
- Miter box;
- Hacksaw;
- Crafting table.
A miter box is a tool that allows you to cut a product at any angle. It looks like a tray that is made of wood or a metal alloy, but most often it is made of plastic. On construction market you can find a simplified version of it, it will be needed for cutting at an angle of 45 degrees, but there are more complex designs, they are designed for cutting at 90 degree angles.
In such work, it is also important what cutting tool to use. Depending on what material the frame is made of, you need to choose a specific tool so as not to damage the product. For example, a hacksaw is suitable for cutting a metal strip, and it is also suitable for plastic framing. And for a wooden product you need to use a hacksaw. The accuracy of the cut and the quality of the work done depend on whether the correct tool is used when cutting.
The workbench will make your work easier in that everything necessary tools will be at hand.
In order for the plank to be cut correctly, you need to follow the step-by-step instructions with precision.
Step 1. The frame needs to be leaned against the doorway and marked required length, then cut off the excess part.
Step 2. We install the bar in the miter box in the position in which it will be attached to doorway. It needs to be pressed against the far side of the instrument.
Step 3. Cut the strip at an angle of 45 degrees.
Step 4. Using the same principle, we install the second counter plate and its mode to the far side of the tool.
To ensure the accuracy of the work done, before fastening, we join the two parts of the platbands, and if there are no gaps between them, you can begin to install them.
For a complete overview of this work, you can watch the video.
How to cut trims yourself without the help of a miter box
If you can’t use a miter box, you can make it yourself or do without it altogether.
To correctly cut the frame without using a special tool, you can use regular markings on the wall and still get a good result.
To work you will need:
- Pencil;
- Roulette;
- Ruler;
- Hacksaw.
To complete the work you need to follow the step-by-step instructions.
Step 1. We fit the plank to the wall where it will be attached, and draw a small line along it.
Step 2. Now you need to draw a line in exactly the same way, attaching the second casing to the place where the corner should be.
Step 3. When everything is drawn, you should get markings on the wall that look like two intersecting lines. The point where these lines intersect must be transferred alternately to two planks.
Step 4. The mark transferred to the frame will be the cutting line; to do this, draw a line from the mark to the other end and cut it off.
Step 5. We apply two parts of the plank to the wall to correct the angle if suddenly there is a mismatch.
To cut a corner using a homemade miter box, it is quite possible to draw it on cardboard, a board or a regular sheet of paper. To do this, you need to use a protractor to draw the angles at the desired degree. Use this homemade instrument in exactly the same way as purchased ones, namely, we align the platband parallel to the line with the desired degree and cut it off.
The main advantage of such a drawn tool is that you can draw an angle at absolutely any angle.
How to attach platbands yourself
When the corners of the platbands are cut off, you can attach them to the wall. It is recommended to do this with decorative nails with small heads, rather than glue, since glue is not durable. And if the frame needs to be replaced or removed for painting, it is much easier to do this with nails, and if the plank was attached with glue, then it can be easily damaged when removed.
There are only four ways to attach such a frame:
- Finishing nails
- Liquid nails.
- Self-tapping screws.
- Using clasps with latches.
Installation using finishing nails is the most common method. It is recommended to use nails 4 centimeters in length and no more than 1.5 millimeters in diameter. The holes are drilled at a distance of 5–7 centimeters, after which nails are driven into them, but not completely. Now you should remove the nail heads using side cutters and mask them with a wax pencil of the same color as the plank itself.
If the surface of the wall to which the frame will be attached is completely flat and the planks are made of MDF material then the method of fastening with liquid nails is suitable. To do this, you need to apply such nails to the underside of the plank and attach it to the wall, holding it in this state for some time. Then you should secure the frame with tape. This method is quite simple and its main advantage is that the front part will not be subject to mechanical stress. But removing it will require a lot of effort.
Advice! First attach the trim to the wall and mark it outside. Afterwards, you can remove the casing and stick masking tape along the contour - it will easily come off without leaving marks, even from the most capricious surfaces, but if liquid nails protrude somewhere, you won’t have to wipe the glue off the wall. It will be enough to simply peel off the tape.
To attach the platband with self-tapping screws, you need to make not very deep, but fairly wide holes in it. This will be necessary to ensure that the heads of the screws are not higher than the frame itself. To decorate the screws, you can purchase special caps for them in the same color as the strip itself. It is recommended to use self-tapping screws 2 centimeters in length and no more.
The door frame with latches resembles the letter “G” in appearance. It is extremely easy to attach, which is a plus. Its “beak” moves into the hole and snaps into place. The disadvantage of this fastening method is that it is not so easy to remove and when re-attached, the casing may delaminate and subsequently will not look beautiful.
All of the four proposed options for attaching the frame are not complicated; you just need to choose the one that is suitable specifically for the interior of the room. 
The quality of the ceiling finish greatly influences appearance premises. That’s why they try to do everything perfectly, or very close to it. The finishing touch to the design is ceiling plinth. They give the finish a finished and holistic look. The planks themselves smooth surfaces easy to install: using special glue white, but problems arise with the design of corners. Without knowing how to make the corner of a ceiling plinth correctly, a lot of material is spoiled. We’ll tell you how and with what to cut it in the corners.
What is it made of and what is it called?
The very first plinths on the ceiling were made of plaster. They were cast in special molds, then installed on the ceiling using mortar. Such figured decorations were called fillets. Today you can rarely see them: they are expensive, but in appearance they are almost no different from cheaper options. And this name is almost lost.
The most popular ceiling plinths today are made of polyurethane or polystyrene. They are inexpensive, look great, are easy to install, and have a wide range of profiles and patterns. The width can be from 5 mm to 250 mm. They are used in almost any room, decorated in any style. Exception - Most often used here wooden crafts— style dictates its conditions.
There is also a similar plastic finish. It is mainly installed in bathrooms. But even in damp rooms you can safely install polyurethane strips - they are not afraid of dampness.
You need to cut ceiling plinths in corners from any material using one of the methods described below. The only exception is plastic skirting boards: such a corner can only be created using ready-made corners.
What and how to cut
Working with skirting boards from different materials involves the use of different cutting tools. When working with wooden ceiling plinths, it is more convenient to use a wood saw. All others, including plastic, foam and other polymers, are better cut with a metal blade. This results in a smoother cut and less burr. Saws are usually used when working with a miter box.
When working with foam baseboards without special tools, cut them with a good stationery knife. Its blade is quite thin and even, the cut is smooth and not wrinkled. If you work with polyurethane or polystyrene with a saw, do not press hard: you can dent it.
In general, to get a little used to the tool and material, take a piece and practice on it: cutting, sawing, trimming. This way there will be fewer problems during work.
How to get the right angle
The most problems when working with ceiling skirting boards arise when decorating the corners. Since the surface of the products is complex, simply cutting at the desired angle will not work: it is also necessary to trim so that they fit together and, preferably, without large gaps. In fact, there are several ways to make the corner of the ceiling plinth ideal (or almost).
Using a miter box
If the corners and walls in the room are smooth, you can use a special carpentry tool- miter box. This is a gutter in the shape of an inverted letter “P”, in which lines are marked for cutting at an angle of 90° and 45°. The part to be cut is placed inside, and a saw is inserted into the guides. The part is held in place and cut at the required angle.
In the case of baseboards, not everything is so simple: they must simultaneously adhere to two surfaces, so they need to be pressed against one or the other wall of the miter box. When working with ceiling ones, they are pressed against the side closest to you.
The sequence of actions when finishing the outer corner is to make a cut at an angle of 45 degrees. Place the miter box in front of you. You try on how the plinth will be positioned, determining which part of it will be attached to the ceiling. In order not to get confused and to cut the ceiling plinth correctly, place the plank that will be located on the right on the right, and the one on the left on the left.
Press the part that ends up on the ceiling to the bottom of the miter box. The second side is closer to you and raised. You rest it on the wall of the device so that it does not wobble when cutting. That is, the front part of the plinth turns away from you. Make the cutting direction as shown in the photo below. By putting the two cut pieces together, you get a protruding corner - an outer or outer corner.
How to make an outer corner of a ceiling plinth using a chair
First place the sawn parts in place “dry”, without applying glue. If the geometry of the corner turns out to be not so ideal, you can correct it a little with a knife. It is easier to cover up small errors with special putty.
The situation with the inner corner of the ceiling plinth is very similar. First, try on which side will be on the ceiling, press this part to the bottom of the miter box, rest the second part on the wall closest to you and make cuts as shown in the photo below.
And again, first try it on without applying glue, and if necessary, adjust it slightly. Then apply a thin bead of glue to both surfaces that will be attached to the wall or ceiling.
Your version of how to use a miter box correctly is shown in the video.
How to make a corner of a ceiling plinth without a miter box
Few apartments or houses have angles exactly 90°. Small deviations can be easily corrected after trying on. But not always. Then you have to mark everything “in place” - under the ceiling.
You will need a finely outlined pencil (hard - it is not so visible on the ceiling, but leaves fairly clear marks close up), a small piece of plinth, a ruler and a good stationery knife if you are working with polyurethane (polystyrene) baguettes or a metal saw for working with other materials.
Place the plinth against the corner and draw along the outer edge with a pencil. Apply to the other side of the corner and also mark. You have a cross on the ceiling, the center of which marks the place where the ceiling plinth strips should meet (look at the photo). Having placed a piece of plinth in the corner that will be glued there and resting its end against the wall, transfer the mark to it.
How to make corners on ceiling plinths without using special tools
Now take a ruler and connect the edge of the baseboard with the marked mark. If you just put the plinth on the table and cut it along the line, the two parts in the corner still won’t fit together: it will get in the way inner part. It can be trimmed later by trying it on the ceiling. The second way is to install the piece that needs to be cut on the table with the part that will be on the ceiling. And cut along the line, but holding the knife at an angle of about 45°. You will still need to make adjustments, but much less (and less likely to make mistakes).
Repeat the same operation with the second bar. You attach it to the right wall, rest the end against the adjacent wall, mark the place where the cross is drawn, draw a line and then cut it off. Adjustment is carried out “dry” without applying glue.
You repeat exactly the same steps for the outer (protruding) corner. Now you know another way to make a corner of a ceiling plinth, without a chisel or other special devices.
Using decorative corners
There is another, simplest way. For skirting boards made of polyurethane or polystyrene, use ready-made, factory-made decorative corners. They are installed in a corner, and the strips are glued tightly to them. Trimming them if necessary is very simple: a few millimeters with an ordinary stationery knife.
How to join in corners
If the installation of the first corner is completed, you can assume that you have already learned how to do almost everything. “Almost”, because you still need to learn how to connect the corners and cut the planks to length. When some part has already been glued and there is a short distance left to the corner, how can you not make a mistake with the length? The answer is simple: leave a reserve.
At first, you can cut a piece 10-15 cm longer: you will have the opportunity to redo it several times if something doesn’t work out right away. Then you make an angle in the manner described above, try it on dry, adjust everything so that the result suits you. Only after this can you place the already cut strip in the corner and mark the place to which it can be shortened. You need to cut exactly 90°. It is not necessary to use a miter box. Just try to place the knife (hacksaw) perpendicular to the surface.
The ceiling plinth not only performs a decorative function, visually separating the walls from the ceiling, but can also hide the joints of various finishing materials ceiling and walls. Not every interior design involves the use of ceiling plinths, but most often general form the room seems incomplete without it. There is nothing complicated in attaching this element - fillets - almost all types of skirting boards are attached with glue. But the question of how to properly trim ceiling plinths in the corners of rooms can confuse many. After all, even in the very simple room There are internal corners where the ceiling plinth strips must be joined precisely and beautifully. And in a more complex configuration of the room, you will also have to join the skirting boards, making the outer corner. In this article we will look at various options how to cut a ceiling plinth using under hand tools and without them.
First, you need to figure out the question of how to cut the ceiling plinth; the answer to it depends on the material from which the fillet is made. On this moment We sell ceiling plinths made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), expanded polystyrene (foam), polyurethane and wood.
PVC ceiling skirting boards are the cheapest. They easily form dents and creases that cannot be removed, so the product has to be thrown away. Also, their disadvantage is electrostaticity - the ability to attract dust. You can cut them with a sharp construction knife or hacksaw.
Ceiling plinths made of polystyrene foam are also considered cheap. This material is very fragile and easily crumbles during processing, so it is necessary to cut polystyrene foam with a sharp knife or a hacksaw, without applying too much pressure.
Ceiling plinths made of extruded polystyrene foam A little more expensive than polystyrene foam, they are denser and more difficult to cut. However, they crumble less, so they are easier and more convenient to work with. Cut with a construction knife and a hacksaw for metal.
Ceiling plinths made of polyurethane are the most expensive at the moment. They are durable, elastic and moisture-resistant, easy to cut with a construction knife and do not crumble. The disadvantage of polyurethane skirting boards is their dependence on temperature changes. For example, over gas stove the polyurethane baseboard will acquire residual deformation and begin to crack slightly. If you try to process or cut such a skirting board, it may bend or deform in other ways.
Wooden ceiling plinths They are dense, heavy products that can only be cut with a hacksaw, preferably with small, frequent teeth. You can also use a metal blade.
Before moving on to listing the ways to correctly cut a ceiling plinth, I would like to note that it is possible not to cut the plinth with particular precision. Available for sale special corner elements , into which the edges of the plinth are inserted. IN in this case It is enough to cut the plinth strip at an angle of 90 °, and the corner element will hide all the flaws. But this method is not always used, since the dimensions of the corner elements are slightly larger than the baseboards themselves, so the corners in the room will stand out general background. Sometimes it can look clumsy. However, if the design of the room allows the use of corner elements for ceiling plinths, it makes sense to use them. Further instructions will be useful for those who still decide to precisely cut the baseboards to a given angle.
A miter box is a simple carpentry tool that allows you to cut the workpiece at the required angle. Most often it is a tray made of plastic, wood or metal with vertical slots for cutting at an angle of 90° and 45°. There are also more complex miter box designs - for cutting at angles of 90, 60 and 45 degrees. For more professional work, a miter box with a rotating mechanism is used, where the hacksaw can be fixed at any angle to the workpiece.
How to cut ceiling plinth using a miter box - inner corner:
- We apply the plinth to the ceiling and measure the required length.
- Then we install the plinth strip in the miter box so that the position coincides with the position of the plinth on the ceiling.
- The plinth strip should be pressed against the far wall of the miter box.
- We hold the plinth with our left hand.
- We choose the position of the hacksaw when the angle is 45 degrees and at the same time the handle of the hacksaw is as close as possible to the left hand.
- We cut the workpiece without putting excessive pressure on the saw.
- The next step is cutting the baseboard striker. We also install it to the far wall of the miter box.
- Press and hold with your right hand.
- We choose a position for the hacksaw when the angle is 45 degrees and the handle of the hacksaw approaches the right hand.
- Cut off the baseboard.
Next, we join the cut plinth strips and check the cutting accuracy. For more precise orientation, they also say that to perform internal corner It is necessary to start cutting from the front part of the baseboard. After cutting, wooden skirting boards will most likely have to be adjusted with a file.
How to cut a ceiling plinth using a miter box - outer corner:
- In order not to make a mistake with the dimensions, it is better to start by marking the inner corner, and then cut out the outer corner. Otherwise, there may be a situation where the bar may not be long enough.
- It is necessary to attach the plank to the ceiling and outline the dimensions.
- We install the ceiling plinth strip and press it against the nearest wall.
- We hold with our left hand and select a position for the hacksaw at an angle of 45 degrees, when the handle approaches the left hand.
- We cut off the workpiece.
- We install the counter plate to the nearest wall and hold it with our right hand.
- We install the hacksaw at an angle of 45 degrees, when the handle approaches the right hand.
- We cut off the workpiece and join the corner.
Trimming the workpiece using a miter box is only suitable if the angle between the walls is even - 90 degrees. If the accuracy leaves much to be desired, you will have to use other methods.
How to cut the corner of a ceiling plinth using markings on the ceiling
Marking the plinth on the ceiling also allows you to cut the corner smoothly and accurately. The only drawback of this method is that it is difficult and inconvenient to hold the plinth strip suspended during the cutting process. Otherwise, you can mark the angle for cutting in this way even more accurately than in other ways. When applying the plinth to the installation site, all flaws in the walls and deviations in the size of the angle are immediately taken into account.
Cutting the corner of the ceiling plinth:
- First of all, two blanks need to be cut at an angle of 90 degrees.
- Then we first apply one plank, resting its end against a perpendicular wall. We draw a line on the ceiling outlining the contour of the plinth.
- We remove this plank and attach a counter plank, also resting its end against the wall. We draw a line.
- The intersection point of the outlined lines will be the mark at which it is necessary to cut the baseboard.
- Again we apply each strip one by one and mark the cutting point on them.
- Draw a line from this point to the other edge of the plinth.
We cut the skirting boards along the marked lines, join them and apply them to the installation site. Please note that using this method it is more convenient to cut internal corners.
Something resembling a miter box can be made if you apply required angles cutting onto paper, cardboard or wood. You need to draw two parallel lines, determine the center, and then mark the necessary angles using a protractor. The advantage of this method is that you can set any angle, including more than 90 degrees. Of course, before cutting the corners of the ceiling plinth, you need to check the angle between the walls in advance using a corner and measure it with a protractor.
The technique for cutting a ceiling plinth using a painted miter box is exactly the same as using the miter box itself. We press the plinth strip against one of the parallel lines, then set the hacksaw at the desired angle, which has already been outlined, and cut it off.
Makeshift miter box tray with your own hands
Making a miter box with your own hands is also not difficult.
Method 1. You will need three wooden planks or boards, which must be knocked together into a U-shaped box. Then the necessary angles are marked on the walls of the box, and the cut is made with a hacksaw. The result should be a wooden miter box with grooves cut out in it.
Method 2. A combination of a makeshift miter box and a template with outlined lines. For ease of cutting, it is necessary to build something that will conveniently hold the ceiling plinth strip, since it is difficult to hold it suspended. It is enough to put together a corner from two wooden planks or boards. On paper you need to draw lines with angles for cutting at 45 degrees or any other. Then we apply the plinth blank to the corner, press it with our hand, as described in the technology for using a miter box, move the paper with the template under the edge where we are going to make the cut, and cut it off. During the cutting process, we focus on the line drawn on the paper.
Method 3. You can use anything as an improvised miter box, anything that forms a corner. For example, a table pushed against the wall.
Important! Please note the rule for taking measurements for cutting ceiling plinths. To mark an internal corner, you need to measure the length directly from the corner itself. To mark the outer corner, you need to be aware that the baseboard will protrude into the room at a distance equal to its width.
You should not fix the ceiling plinth strips before you have cut the counter strip and tried out their location. Only after the two strikers meet perfectly in the corner can you begin to attach them to the ceiling. Small flaws can be corrected with a file or nail file in the case of wooden and polyurethane skirting boards. To adjust the foam products, you will have to use a sharp knife.
If suddenly, even after adjusting the baseboards, a small gap remains between them, do not despair, it can be repaired with putty. Cutting the ceiling plinth yourself is not difficult. But in order not to spoil a lot of products, it is better to first practice on small pieces.
There are now more than enough tips on how to cut a baseboard at 45 degrees on the Internet, the only bad thing is that most of them are given by people who have never done this. Next, from a practical point of view, I will tell you how to cut skirting boards at the corners with your own hands in 3 options, and you will learn about both traditional methods and folk universal recipes.
The science of how to properly trim ceiling moldings in corners is not as complicated as it may seem.
A few words about tools and materials
Floor skirting boards are now made of wood or polyvinyl chloride (PVC), in other words, plastic. For ceiling fillets, the list is a little longer:
The range of ceiling plinths is much wider than that of the floor type.
- Polyurethane - these skirting boards have good elasticity and can bend around radial and other curved surfaces, but in any case they need to be trimmed to precise angles;
- Foam plastic - the simplest a budget option, the price of foam skirting boards is low and they are very easy to cut;
- PVC - the principle is the same as for floor skirting boards, but the lineup much wider;
- Wooden - similar to floor ones, only here there are also wide models;
- Gypsum - with the advent of polyurethane and foam plastic, gypsum ceiling fillets faded into the background, firstly, they are heavy, and secondly, fragile. But to be fair, they are worth mentioning.
Since it is impossible to correctly cut the ceiling plinth and its floor counterpart without a good tool, we will dwell on this issue in a little more detail.
The best, practically perfect tool for trimming any skirting boards and more - this Miter saw with a rotating stand. The high-speed disc makes smooth and precise cuts, and the bed in these units rotates to any angle. The only problem is the serious cost of this tool.
A miter saw is an almost ideal tool for cutting baseboards and more.
It is believed that one of the best hand tools for precision cutting of small blocks is a back saw. In principle, this is true, but I’ll tell you honestly, it’s not easy to find a really high-quality saw, even with the current assortment. If you decide to buy such a tool, then take a saw with a fine tooth.
Theoretically, foam and polyurethane can be cut with any sharp and durable knife. But at the same time you need to have a firm hand and at least a little experience in cutting foam. Plus, cutting wide fillets with a knife is very problematic.
Without experience, making a clear cut with a knife is very problematic.
Personally, if I don’t have a crosscut tool, I only use a hacksaw. It is suitable for cutting absolutely any material, from foam to wood. By the way, people often ask the question of how to cut a plastic baseboard for the floor, so take a hacksaw for metal and you definitely can’t go wrong.
For cutting skirting boards, a hacksaw is considered one of the best tools.
Three working methods for trimming skirting boards
For floor and ceiling skirting boards, the cutting instructions are almost the same. But if on the floor a crooked corner can be covered with something, then on the ceiling this is already a problem, so we will pay more attention to how to cut the ceiling plinths.
Method number 1. Classic miter box
The classic miter box is a U-shaped box with slots in the opposite sides. A piece of suitable size is inserted into this stock and sawed off with a hacksaw through the slots in the sides. The idea is not new, the tool is already several hundred years old, but despite its simplicity, not everyone knows how to correctly cut the corner of a ceiling plinth using such a miter box.
Not everyone knows how to cut a ceiling plinth in a corner using a classic miter box.
Tip: when trimming, ceiling plinths are applied to the side of the miter box that is closest to you, and floor plinths, on the contrary, should be applied to the side of the tool farthest from you. This is not a dogma, but it is much easier to work this way.
It is easier to work with floor plinths, since the miter box lies on a horizontal plane, it is easier for you to orient yourself in the position of the plinth. People most often make mistakes when cutting ceiling fillets; they simply insert them into the tool incorrectly. There is a simple but important rule here.
Important: the side of the ceiling fillet that touches the wall should be directed to the upper edge of the side of the miter box, and that part of the plinth that borders the ceiling should be placed on the bottom of the miter box.
As you know, a corner has 2 sides, so in order to make fewer mistakes, train yourself to place the bar that will be mounted on the right side of the corner in the miter box on the right, and the bar that is attached to the left in the miter box on the left. The intricacies of using a classic miter box are described in detail in the video in this article.
In addition to the classic U-shaped miter box, there are two more types of similar designs - a professional and a rotary tool. As for the professional option, only masters use it. The device is quite bulky, but it rotates at any angle and has a hacksaw that can be locked in the desired position.
Professional miter box with the ability to fix a hacksaw and workpiece.
The rotating device can easily be called a “pocket” miter box. The only advantage here is the ability to clearly fix the angle of rotation of the bar. On the one hand, it’s easy to work with - set the corner, apply it to the baseboard and cut it off. But on the other hand, you need to get used to such a tool; if you do not have experience working with a hacksaw, then you should not take a rotary miter box.
Advice: when choosing a classic U-shaped miter box, first of all, do not buy Chinese products. And secondly, try to buy models with the ability to rigidly fix the part inside; one of these models is shown in the photo below.
A miter box with the ability to fix the part inside is much more convenient to work with.
Method number 2. Trimming according to a template
Most often, both ceiling and floor skirting boards need to be cut at 45º. If there is no specialized tool nearby, then an improvised miter box can be drawn on a piece of notebook paper. From school course geometry, we know that the diagonal of any square in relation to the base has an inclination angle of 45º.
Next you need to draw a square and draw 2 diagonals in it - this will be the required 45º. All you have to do is correctly attach the plinth to the leaf and mark. True, in order to cut the plinth smoothly without guides, you need a good eye and a steady hand.
Method No. 3. Applied universal
Trimming at 45º is a common option, but what if you need a different angle and only have a hacksaw and a pencil? It turns out that there is a very simple way out of this situation. Plus, this method is universal, it is suitable for both external and internal corners.
Moreover, I can assure you that those angles that visually seem straight, in fact have deviations of a couple of degrees. As a result, you buy good tool, you cut off exactly 45º, and when joining, a gap appears between the baseboards. Here this problem disappears. And then, using an example, we will look at how to cut the ceiling plinth in the inner corner.
| Illustrations | Recommendations |
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Stage 1.
Take a fillet, place it on one side of the corner and use it to draw 2 lines, along the wall and along the ceiling.
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Stage 2. You do the same on adjacent side corner. |
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Stage 3. If you draw a diagonal from the intersection of the lines on the ceiling to the inner corner, you will get the desired cutting line. |
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Stage 4. Next, take the tool and cut along the finished markings. If you are comfortable with a hacksaw, then the baseboards should fit together perfectly. |
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. As I already mentioned, you can trim the outer corner using exactly the same technology. |
Important nuances
If you tried your best, but a small gap at the joint still “came out,” don’t be upset. In wooden fillets, such a gap can be easily covered with furniture wax. To fill a gap on baseboards made of polyurethane, foam, plastic or plaster, putty is perfect. Naturally, the color of the composition must match the color of the baseboard.
All cracks in the area of the ceiling fillets are sealed with putty.
Wide ceiling fillets are certainly beautiful, but they can only be mounted perfectly smooth walls. If the plane of the wall in relation to the ceiling is wavy, then it is better to buy narrow polyurethane fillets, they are elastic and will smooth out this drawback.
The most questions arise about how to cut wallpaper to fit the ceiling plinth. There is nothing complicated here: the wallpaper is glued with a slight overlap on the baseboards and when the wall is completely glued, take a large spatula, place it in the corner and cut off the excess along the blade with a knife.
But keep in mind - neither the knife nor the spatula can be removed from the wall until you have gone through the entire plane. That is, you put a spatula from the corner, cut the wallpaper along the length of the blade, and then, without lifting the blade from the wall, move and cut until you reach the next corner.
Conclusion
All three methods I described work; the choice depends on what tool you have and what your professional skills are. If after watching the video you still have questions, welcome to the comments, I’ll help in any way I can.
If you are not confident in your abilities, then for both floor and ceiling plinths there are joining elements that allow you to do without trimming.
