Homemade camping table. Do-it-yourself folding table - step-by-step instructions for making and decorating simple camping and stationary models

For modern city apartments, folding furniture is very relevant, because it allows you to save money. free space and at the same time does not lose its functionality. The dining table is an integral attribute of any home. It should be large enough to seat the whole family and also accommodate guests. In the case of a dining room, the option of an extendable table will come in handy. When folded, it can be a small table for everyday use or just a nightstand.

Undoubtedly, collapsible table can be purchased at furniture stores or order, but this is quite expensive and can cause serious damage family budget. Why not do folding table with your own hands? Despite the fact that its mechanism is not easy, any man can still make such a piece of furniture. The main thing is desire and a little patience.

We decided to make kitchen table with your own hands? We advise you to take a closer look at the option of a folding bed. This dining table will fit perfectly into the interior of a city apartment and will not take up much space. Its mechanism, despite its apparent complexity, is very simple. The only thing that is really worth paying attention to is the manufacturing of parts.

Before you make a book table with your own hands, as in any other case of creation homemade furniture, prepare a drawing.

A homemade folding table consists of the following parts:

• A - tabletop, 700x670 mm (recommended material thickness - 20 mm, it can be MDF,
• Chipboard or hollow panels, at your discretion), 2 pcs.;
• B - lid, 700x200 mm (the material is the same as that used for countertops), 1 pc.;
• B - leg, 720x200 mm (tabletop material), 2 pcs.;
• G - drawer, 638x190 mm (tabletop material), 1 pc.;
• D - bottom shelf, 628x190 (tabletop material), 1 pc.;
• E, F - horizontal and vertical bars, 500x40x25 mm, E - 4 pcs., F - 2 pcs.;
• Z - movable leg, 720x40x25 mm, 2 pcs.;
• And - piano hinges, 4 pcs.

Scheme of work:

1. After the drawing of the book table is prepared and all the necessary parts are cut out, do not forget to treat them with melamine film. This will protect the saw cuts from moisture and protect you from the toxicity of the material.
2. Start assembly by connecting parts Z, G and E (movable leg and bars). To do this, it is best to use a connection with blind straight tenons. This design is equipped with an elastic band or a metal button at the end.
3. Connect parts B, D and E. These are the table top, the leg, the drawer and the bottom shelf.
4. Attach the cover to the legs (parts B and C). Here we recommend using round spikes.
   Attach piano hinges to the structure with a movable leg, then connect everything to the table leg.
5. Using the drawing, carry out all the work on both sides.
6. Now you can paint or varnish your dining table.

A table-book the size of “a very serious banquet table” has been made. As you can see, it's really not difficult.

Transformable folding table

The previous option is, of course, not the only one possible mechanism. The kitchen table can also be extendable. When a small table, through simple manipulations, is expanded to a large size.

Extendable table do-it-yourself ideal option for zealous owners

To make an extendable kitchen table with your own hands, you will definitely need drawings. They can be found on the Internet or in magazines (for those who are used to paper sources). The ones we offer will allow you to create a table with a tabletop 700x1200 mm when assembled, and 700x1670 mm when disassembled.

DIY table materials and tools:

• laminated chipboard;
• corner 50x50 (aluminum) 4 pcs.;
• guides 2 pcs.;
• legs (made of metal) 4 pcs., strong enough to support a large dining table;
• 6 locks (will be described further);
• screw (10 mm);
• self-tapping screws 20x4 and 16x3.
• a heat gun for gluing edges, but you can also use an iron;
• drill;
• jigsaw;
• milling cutter;
• level, roulette, etc.

Operating procedure:

1. Before making a folding table, prepare the necessary parts in accordance with the prepared drawings. The blanks should be cut and edged.

Nuance! A cut made with a router is better than a jigsaw or saw, however, in this case it is necessary to increase required dimensions by a couple of millimeters.

1. The next step is to prepare the moving mechanism. To start with outside corner, draw a line dividing its side exactly in half. This line will be needed in all corners.
2. Using a guide, mark the places where the corners and the guide are fastened.

1. Drill the required holes.

1. We fasten the structure of two corners and a guide with bolts.

1. Place the resulting structures in front of you with the moving parts of the guides inward. Now you need to drill 4 holes, in the moving parts of the guide from the outside, and in the fixed parts - from the inside.

1. Place the tabletop blanks on the table with the front side facing away from you, carefully aligning the edges. Place the resulting mechanisms on top with the movable part inward and align their centers with the joint of the table tops of the transformer table.

1. Screw the mechanism with self-tapping screws as follows: the moving part to one part of the tabletop, and the fixed part to the other.

1. Screw the clasps together, connecting the edges of the tabletops.

1. Separate the tabletops, place an insert between them and screw the missing parts of the locks to it. It should be possible for the locks to close without the insert and with the insert.
2. All that remains is to screw the legs and the transformer table with your own hands is ready.

Advice! It is recommended to cut off the sharp corners of metal corners for safety reasons.

You might be interested in the question of how to make a round-shaped transformer table. It all depends on the prepared drawings and your wishes. For example, you can make a round sliding table based on the same mechanism as in the previous version.

But there may be other more complex options.

In general, a round transformable table will fit perfectly into the interior of a city apartment, and such a wooden table will be an ideal addition to the living room of a country house.

Extendable table, option for a compact kitchen

How to make an extendable table for the kitchen with your own hands is no secret. But what if it is not possible or necessary to place such a table in the kitchen? In such cases, you can make a retractable table. It can be completely removed after it has fulfilled its role. This way you can save a huge amount of space in your kitchen. This option is simply irreplaceable for small kitchens.

However, a retractable table can be used for more than just meals. This great option auxiliary desktop surface (this option is widely used for computer desks).

Folding picnic table

The tables presented before are full-fledged pieces of furniture. However, compact tables are also needed in the country. Such a table should be easy to transport so that it can easily fit in the trunk passenger car along with the rest of the picnic supplies. Let's look at how to make a folding table - a suitcase.

Materials:

• plywood 50x60 cm;
• timber 30x30 cm, length 44 cm (4 pcs.);
• timber 30x30 cm, length 60 cm (2 pcs.);
• timber 30x30 cm, length 52 cm (4 pcs.) for legs;
• self-tapping screws, nails and furniture screws;
• a handle (you can use a handle from an old suitcase or buy a similar one), and also
• suitcase latches (2 pcs.);
• hinges 60 mm (2 pcs.).

Operating procedure:

1. Assemble 2 frames from plywood sheets and blocks. Secure all parts with self-tapping screws. Connect the frames together with loops.
2. Drill holes at equal distances for attaching the legs. Make similar ones on the legs. Considering that they will be attached with screws, the diameter of the holes should be slightly smaller size screws
3. Attach the handle and latches. The DIY folding table will be ready when you screw on the legs. To unfold it you need to unscrew the last ones.

As you understand, this is a draft version. It needs to be refined. First, sand all the parts, and then paint them in the desired color and varnish them.

A more complicated version is also possible. When the table legs are attached to folding design. In addition, the tabletop is made of slats, and its edges are trimmed with aluminum corners.

Of course, making such a folding table with your own hands is somewhat more difficult, and it will weigh more.

We looked at how to make a table - a book, a retractable table and a folding table with your own hands, options for tables for the kitchen and picnic. Which of our advice you will follow is up to you to decide.

The main thing is to carefully read the drawings and our instructions.

A table with your own hands can easily be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any accumulated experience in carpentry. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is quite simple and understandable.

For example, find a suitable finished model table for a kitchen that is extremely small in size does not always work. Purchasing custom-made solid wood furniture is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up the tools and construct your own “work” yourself, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.

In addition, there is often a desire to show your creative abilities in a summer cottage, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully arrange a veranda or gazebo suburban area. If you have it on hand suitable materials and tools, then you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use finished project and then get to work.

To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.

Tools for work

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required for the manufacture of any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.

You can use regular, traditional hand tools, which carpenters have always worked with. This list usually includes:

1. A plane used to level wood and cut parts to the required size.
2. Chisels for selecting various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
3. Saws different sizes and modifications that are used to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
4. Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
5. Screwdriver Set.
6. Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
7. Sandpaper for grinding.

Many of the tools can be replaced with more modern and convenient devices:

• An electric jigsaw will do all the work that the various saws mentioned above were previously used for.

• A sanding machine will help make surfaces smooth and polish them to a shine, eliminating the very tedious procedure of manual sandpaper.

• Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help to round sharp corners, will drill figured grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need it and have some experience, then you can use it to decorate the table with a relief pattern.

• will significantly speed up the work, since you won’t have to spend several minutes tightening each screw. In addition, during certain operations it is possible to install one of the milling cutters or ordinary drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).

• The construction level will help make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.

An easy-to-make table for a summer cottage

Necessary materials

For such a country house, having a tabletop size of 1680×850 mm, you will not need too much a large number of wooden blanks. You need to prepare the following:

1. Beam, cross-section - 750×100×50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
2. Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
3. Wood glue.
4. Board size:

• 1680×100×25 mm – 4 pcs. (longitudinal frame elements);
• 850×100×25 mm – 2 pcs. (transverse frame parts);
• 1580×100×25 mm – 2 pcs. (cladding boards for the side elements of the frame);
• 950×100×25 mm – 17 pcs. (boards for tabletops).

All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface. If you plan to “darken” the wood, then cover it with stain, and to reveal the textured pattern, carefully go over the top grinder. Fine-grit sandpaper will remove the stained, raised parts of the wood grain, making them lighter than the depressions.

Installation of a garden table

When all the parts for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to assembly.

• The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards measuring 1680x100x25 mm and two end boards 850x100x25 mm, laid out on a large table or on the floor. The location of the internal and external boards is marked on the end boards. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. It is imperative to accurately mark the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end board, especially if the connection will be made using the tie-in method.

The elements can be connected in different ways:

- with help steel angle- this is the simplest and reliable way;

- the insertion method is more the hard way, since it requires precise dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;

- “groove-tenon”, shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for novice craftsmen with no experience;

- connection with dowels is shown on fragment e) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be connected.

• All connections are usually made using glue. The only exception is the fastening of parts end-to-end with a metal corner.
• The frame must have perfectly aligned right angles, so after connecting all the elements, you need to carry out control using a construction angle and measuring and comparing the lengths of the diagonals.
• If parts are secured with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.

• When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, facing boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are attached to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their attachment also needs to be marked, since there should be a distance along their edges for mounting the legs. The facing boards are also installed with glue and fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should be recessed into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.

• The next stage is the transverse cladding of the tabletop with boards 950×100×25 mm. The place where they are attached must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The protrusion of the tabletop above the frame should be 25 mm on all four sides.

• Next, each of the boards is fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the table “box,” and the outer boards are also attached to the end sides. In order for the heads of the self-tapping screws to be recessed, recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled into the boards to a depth of 2–3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the self-tapping screws will be screwed. To avoid cracking of the boards when installation work, through holes must be drilled.

• After this, legs made of timber with a cross-section of 750×100×50 mm are attached to the edges of the longitudinal boards; they must exactly match the width of the tabletop.

• The legs can be secured to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the connection point. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and the nuts are tightened on them from inside the frame using a wrench.
• The final stage of manufacturing is sealing the heads of the screws with a mixture made from carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. Use this homemade putty to fill the recesses above the caps and level them well. After the glue has dried, the entire tabletop, and especially the areas covered with “plugs” of glue, must be sanded well.

• After this, the table can be varnished or painted water based. After waiting for the decorative or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in a country gazebo, on a veranda or terrace in a recreation area.

If desired, it would be easy to make a bench to go along with the table.

Small folding table for the kitchen

This small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.

1. Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally touched, so the table is quite safe for installation in a children's room.
2. The presence of a spacious double-sided bedside table will allow you to store various small items and small toys in it.
3. The table is equipped with a tabletop of sufficient size so that the child can do homework while sitting at it.
4. In addition, there is room on the tabletop for a laptop or books necessary for study.
5. If necessary, this small table can easily replace and ironing board, if you lay a soft cloth on its surface.

Considering all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.

Find out how, and also check out several models with detailed instructions, in a special article on our portal.

Necessary materials and parts for a folding table

To assemble such a convenient piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the parts that make it up. The list of necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:

The pictures show a drawing of a table that can be relied upon during the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.

To manufacture all the parts listed in the table, you will need modern electric tools that can bring the workpiece to professional perfection.

Find out how to do it with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.

Installation of a folding table-cabinet

Making a table starts with the most important and largest part - the table top. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and “mobile”, that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table can easily serve as a regular compact cabinet.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first step is to cut out blanks for the tabletop, measuring 600×600 and 600×475 mm, from plywood 25 mm thick, using a jigsaw or circular saw.
	Next, markings are made on the larger panel - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve correct form semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or make it yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope.
	Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done using a jigsaw or circular saw, installing the appropriate compass attachment on it.
	Next, a cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, or, if desired, even or rounded.
	The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will join the second part of the tabletop flat. Then its edges are processed in the same way.
	The next step is to place the two processed parts of the tabletop on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Markings are being made for installation furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the tabletop. Furniture hinges may have different shapes, so they should be placed in the marked place and outlined with a simple pencil. Then, using a router, special shaped grooves are made in the plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. The hinges are fixed into the finished holes using self-tapping screws.
	After connecting the two parts of the tabletop with hinges, in the middle of the panels, markings are made on their lower side to secure the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides should be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the junction of the two parts of the tabletop. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed with a milling cutter: 530×30 mm in size - 2 pieces, 530×20 mm - 2 pieces, 120×30 mm - 2 pieces, 122×30 mm - 1 piece, 120× 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122×20 mm - 1 pc. It is important to remember here that long slats should have one edge, and short elements There are 45˚ cuts on both sides so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed on top of the lower rails of the guides, are cut off from the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These cuts are necessary so that their angles do not interfere with the movement of the leg along the formed channel. Then, the parts are glued with wood glue to the marked area of ​​the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the tabletop. First, the longest slats measuring 530×20 mm are fixed with glue and then screwed with self-tapping screws; then a piece of 122×20 mm covers the channel. On top of the long and short fixed slats, second ones are glued, having the same length, but greater width; they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the table top and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the places where the screws are screwed in so that the top ones do not collide with those that secure the bottom slats. Four parts are fastened to the rectangular part of the tabletop in the same way. All elements must be processed until smooth and perfectly evenly fastened to each other, otherwise the leg will bump into obstacles and jam when moving.
	The leg is usually made using lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from a master or purchase it ready-made. As a last resort, you can make it square by treating the timber required height until smooth. Then, using a dowel and glue, a square plywood guide plate measuring 80x80x18 mm is attached to the upper end of the leg using a dowel and glue.
	Next, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, minor adjustments and modifications can be made.
	The finished tabletop is painted or coated with water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured pattern of the plywood. After this, the finished tabletop is put aside and proceed to the manufacture of the cabinet.
	The elements of the cabinet do not have complex configurations, therefore, to make them, it is enough to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table on an MDF panel or thick plywood and carefully cut them out using a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be processed smoothly with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy.
	If you plan to cover the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge tape, then this process is carried out using a conventional iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and ensures reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels.
	The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make shaped grooves into which furniture hinges will be installed and secured. The holes are made in the same way as in the countertop using a milling cutter, but in this case the milling cutter can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be placed at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before starting drilling, it is necessary to carry out careful markings. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet on which the door will be attached. Then the walls and doors are joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for the screws.
	In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. To do this, step back 50 mm from the edge of the panel and find a convenient height position, mark a point through which a through hole is drilled to secure the handle.
	All manufactured parts of the cabinet are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and brush. Paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but will also protect the material from negative influence specific kitchen humid environment.
	Next, you can proceed to assembling the bedside table. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be easily replaced with improvised devices. For example, you can carry out the assembly on a flat table, and for ease of installation of the cabinet, it is additionally installed on flat bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be done using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, the screw heads will have to be masked with various compounds after assembly. The assembly process proceeds as follows: - The bottom panel is placed on the stands. - One of the side panels is leveled on it and using a construction corner, and its location is marked with a pencil. -The location of the fastening parts is immediately marked on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing middle wall. - Then holes are drilled at the marked points on the bottom and the end sides of the side panels for installing dowels. - After this, before gluing the parts together, locations for installing shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, shelf support brackets are mounted in the marked places, for which holes are also drilled. - Next, dowels coated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, and the side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - Fixed shelves-lintels are mounted in the same way, simultaneously with the side walls.
	Before continuing work, you need to make sure that the glue is in assembled structure dried well. To make the cabinet stand more rigidly, it is laid on its side and pressed with clamps while it dries.
	While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the box can also be carried out using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and at the marked places, holes are drilled in their end for installing fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Next, the dowels are coated with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sides to the bottom.
	The sidewalls are screwed together using self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recommended to be recessed into the wood, and the holes to be sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another fastening option can be furniture corners, which are screwed from the inside to the sides with self-tapping screws. Each side will require two corners.
	When assembling the box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners using a construction angle and changing the diagonals, otherwise a skew may occur.
	If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the drawer, then first, the location of their attachment is determined on the sides of the drawers and on the inner walls of the cabinet. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, draw a line along which the guides will be fixed.
	Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the drawer. It is screwed from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. In addition to self-tapping screws, it is recommended to use glue to fasten the panel: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are tightened with four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue has dried in the center façade panel a hole is drilled through which the handle is screwed.
	Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - connecting the cabinet and the countertop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then secure it with screws that are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But first, the tabletop needs to be positioned correctly. Part of the channel located on the permanently installed tabletop panel should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the leg towards the table. The tabletop should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the drawer side by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and on the leg side by 120 mm.
	Having secured the tabletop, proceed to final installation and screwing the bedside table door onto self-tapping screws. Then the drawer is inserted, and the shelves are installed on the shelf supports.
	When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, you can choose other colors to decorate it, which will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room.
	When open, the table also does not take up much space and fits perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its “light” design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the tabletop makes it safe for children. Therefore, this table option can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms.

If there is a need to save money, or simply have a great desire to express yourself in carpentry, then do not delay self-made. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work is successfully completed.

For those who are confident in their abilities, we offer one more interesting option round table, which may well serve both at home and on the site.

Video: example of assembling a round table

And one more idea for a kitchen table, which, if not true, would also be within the power of a skilled owner to implement:

Video: lightweight kitchen table with collapsible design

Who among us doesn’t like to go fishing with family or friends, have a picnic, barbecue, or just relax in nature.

However, in addition to fishing rods, food, barbecue and tents, you need at least some kind of camp furniture - it’s uncomfortable to cook and sit on the bare ground.

And the main item needed for a picnic outside the city is a folding table.

Now it can be purchased at any tourist or fishing store, but why spend money if you can make a folding table yourself. Let's find out how to do this and what is needed for this.

Design Features

Without going into details, we can distinguish two types of camping tables – a table with folding legs and a suitcase table.

In the first option, when transporting or carrying the legs are retracted under the tabletop. Upon arrival, you just need to move the legs of the table to place it.

In the second option, the tabletop is something like a suitcase or chessboard- in the stowed position, the legs lie inside it, but in place they need to be taken out of the “suitcase”, connected to it and the table placed in the right place.

Both types have their advantages. A folding table is easier to make and literally takes seconds to set up. At the same time, the suitcase table is more convenient to carry and takes up less space, and, in addition, you can put dishes, skewers and other necessary things in it during transportation.

Wood, plastic or metal?

What material is best for making your own folding table for camping trips?

If ease of creation is your top priority and you don't have a wide range of tools or skills in working with plastics and metals, choose wood.

Timber, boards, chipboard, plywood - all this can be used to create a fairly simple folding table.

But a table made of wood, if its surface is not protected with varnishes and special coatings, will warp under the influence of dampness, sunlight and temperature changes and lose its attractive appearance. appearance.

Plastic and even metal can be used as material for legs and table tops. But here you may need those tools that cannot be found in every home. In addition, working with such materials is more difficult than with the same wood. But tables made of plastic are not subject to corrosion, and those made of metal are very strong and durable.

In order to make a collapsible or folding table, you need a set of enough simple tools, which can be found in any home or garage:

• Jigsaw (can be replaced with a circular saw or wood hacksaw);
• Electric drill for preparing holes for screws;
• Hammer and Phillips screwdriver;
• Tape measure, square, ruler, pencil and level.

Attention! remember, that cutting tools tools such as a circular saw or jigsaw are sources of increased danger! Observe all necessary safety precautions when working.

Folding picnic table

To make something simple and strong enough, you need the bare minimum of materials and fasteners:

• wooden boards, 20–40 millimeters thick. For the countertop, instead of boards, you can use a sheet of chipboard or plywood, approximately 10 millimeters thick;
• self-tapping screws, furniture bolts, and for each pair of legs the bolts must be different lengths, wing nuts for bolts;
• door handles for carrying the table and hooks.

First, cut from boards or sheets Chipboard table top the required sizes. If the tabletop is made up of several boards, assemble them together, lay them down and measure the length and width.

Stages of work

Step 1. Making the frame
Lay the boards for the frame on the tabletop; on each side, the frame should move 2–3 centimeters away from the edge of the tabletop. Using a jigsaw, cut the boards to the required dimensions, then lay them back on the tabletop, checking that the length and width of the frame match the drawing.

Outline the contours of the frame - use them to make holes in the tabletop for screws. Important!

Step 3. Assembling the frame and tabletop
Assemble the frame elements together, secure the stop bars and wooden supports, and use an electric drill to make four holes for the bolts. Use screws to secure the table top and frame.


Step 4: Table Legs
Lay out and cut out the table legs with a jigsaw. In the upper part, where they are fixed to the frame, the legs should be rounded, while in the lower part there should be a cut at a slight angle (15–20 degrees). Make holes for the bolts.

Step 5. Assembling the table
Connect the first pair of legs with a crossbar and secure to the frame with a bolt and wing nut. Repeat the same with the second pair. Check that the legs do not cling to each other when unfolding and folding the table. If they get stuck, treat the legs at the point of friction with sandpaper.

The folding table is ready. Additionally, you can attach a handle to it for easy carrying and hooks for hanging towels or barbecue equipment.

Suitcase table

To do camp table IR suitcase you will need large quantity materials and fasteners:

• sheet of plywood or chipboard for the lid. If they are not available, you can use boards;
• wooden beam for the legs and frame of the table top;
• hinges, door or suitcase handle, two latches;
• furniture bolts and wing nuts;
• self-screws.

Stages of work

Step 1. Take sheets of chipboard and cut out halves of the tabletop. Then saw off the frame bars to the required length and connect them to the tabletop halves with screws on all sides. Fasten the tabletop halves together using hinges.

Step 2. Cut four beams, which will be the legs of our table, make holes in them and in the frame for bolts, and make an indent so that the table legs are freely connected to the frame.

Step 3. Connect the legs and frame using furniture bolts and wing nuts.

Step 4. Attach a carrying handle to the frame. Don't forget to make two latches , so that the suitcase does not open during transportation.

Note! Before you start work, draw up a drawing of your table in several projections, calculate the dimensions of all the parts and how much material you will need. This way you will save yourself from mistakes, and you will not have to redo all the work again.

Protecting the camp table

A tree that is not protected by anything ages quickly enough: dampness, temperature changes that are inevitable in nature, sunlight and many other factors have a bad effect on the material and reduce the durability of the folding table.

Therefore, do not forget to treat all its surfaces, especially the countertop, which is most susceptible to harmful influences.

Use special antiseptic compounds and stain.

A final finish with varnish or paint will improve the appearance of the plywood or chipboard and make the camp table more beautiful.

How to make another version of a lightweight folding table, watch the video:

The whole multitude of tourism lovers are divided into two societies that do not understand each other. Some recognize only a comfortable holiday with learning environment in the conditions of many star hotels where all inclusive. For such, there are sites like this http://www.ally.com.ua/tours/hot/. Others prefer to visit everyone interesting places relying on their own efforts and often their own equipment to increase the comfort of travel. You can find many examples when the requirements for comfort are minimal. A good example is the painting by V. Perov “Hunters at a Rest”.

It is quite sufficient to sit on the grass and eat on a small table. But it’s hard to deny that a small camp folding tourist table didn’t hurt this company. Because in addition to good weather and a clean place, it is desirable to have it to increase the comfort of your stay. Therefore, it is actually easy to build a neat small camp folding table that suits you with your own hands, especially if you know how to hold a hammer, drill or screwdriver in your hands.

Of course to receive excellent result needs to be thought through the necessary system folding the table, materials used. In this case, you can implement it in the form of a suitcase, ensuring the packaging of its legs, or, conversely, ensuring that the tabletop is rolled up in the form of a roll.

I will give similar examples of the implementation of such designs of folding tourist tables.

Ready-made collapsible tourist table

Demonstration of the possibility of collapsing the tabletop after removing the legs on two crossbars secured with screws.

Disassembled tourist table.

The folding travel table is lightweight, compact and easy to assemble.

A good example of a table is shown in the video.

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Reading time ≈ 7 minutes

There are things that many of us are deprived of in everyday life, and not of our own free will, but due to the surrounding everyday life, and one of them is vacation. fresh air. I want to tell you how to make a folding picnic table with your own hands, which can be used not only in the forest, but also in the country. Below are drawings and supporting videos to help you with assembly.

Folding table

Where to begin

Of course, you need to start by assembling the necessary components in this case tools and materials.

Carpentry tools

Carpentry tool set

First, make sure you have all the carpentry tools needed to assemble your camp table. This is necessary, since all work may stall due to the inability to complete one or another operation. Therefore, you should prepare:

• manual circular saw and/or jigsaw;
• a screwdriver with different attachments (you can use an electric drill);
• a set of drills of different diameters;
• a set of chisels and a hammer;
• belt or disc sander. If it is not available, you can get by with sandpaper;
• construction angle with a measuring ruler;
• level (can be short);
• metric tape;
• burner (if necessary);
• a carpenter's pencil and a varnish brush (instead of a brush, some people use a piece of foam rubber).

Note. The selection of a tool may be different in one case or another. Firstly, drawings and design diagrams may differ significantly from each other. Secondly, carpenters have their own preferences - the same operation can be done with different tools.

We select the necessary materials

Moisture-resistant plywood FC

To make a folding table, you can use different material, therefore, the list contains all the blanks from which you have to make a choice:

• block for legs with cross section 20x45, 30x40 or 30x45 mm. Length 300-600mm - 4 blanks for legs;
• block 30×40 mm for fasteners and jumpers;
• board from 25×100 to 25×200 mm (for a plank tabletop);
• moisture-resistant or laminated plywood (for plywood countertops);
• PVA glue, dowels;
• wood varnish with stain;
• 2 screws with washers, nuts and lock nuts for moving support units, 2 studs, 6 washers and 8 nuts or 2 bolts, 6 washers and 4 nuts for attaching the legs to the tabletop;
• stainless steel screws for wood.

Assembly work

We will consider one of the assembly options with different tabletops (plank and plywood), and you simply choose for yourself what you consider necessary.

Table top and legs

Preparing the boards

In fact, you don’t even have to use new boards to make a folding countertop. Old, blackened, but trimmed ones are also suitable for this purpose, as long as they are not affected by fungus or shawl. If desired, the tabletop can be made of glued wood, but this is unlikely to be useful for a picnic. The boards should be sanded top and bottom and then cut to the required length. After this, process the top edge around the perimeter at an angle of 45⁰, as in the photo above or in the video clip below.

Video: Plank tabletop

But it is not at all necessary to make a tabletop from boards - it can be cut from plywood 10-12 mm thick, but choose moisture-resistant brands. Be sure to sand the cut panel around the perimeter so that there are no sharp edges. It is also advisable to round the corners, and this already applies to safety instructions.

Drawings of legs

The easiest way to make a folding table with your own hands is to make X-shaped legs that will not only unscrew from the tabletop, but also fold into a straight line underneath it. To do this, first of all, you should polish the bars, grinding off the edges, lay them one on top of the other, find the middle and drill a hole through two blanks at once. The diameter of the hole should match the nut and locknut bolt you will be using. Place washers under the bolt head and under the nut, and then tighten the structure so that the legs can move along this axis relative to each other. Make the second pair of legs in the same way.

Assembly of the structure

Elements for assembly

Details for assembling the table:

1. tabletop made of plywood or boards;
2. block for supporting the legs;
3. leg fastening block;
4. second support post;
5. main support post;
6. straps for the bundle;
7. rotary axis bolt with washers, nut and locknut;
8. nuts;
9. rotary axis of the main rack.

Important! First of all, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the drawing given above is designed for a plywood countertop. If it is plank, then between bars No. 2 and No. 3 you need to screw jumpers to stop the boards.

Now you need to decide on the length of the tabletop - it should correspond to the width of the trunk of your car, unless, of course, you plan to use your table only in the kitchen. If its width is set to about 400-450 mm, then optimal length each leg will be 310-360 mm, respectively (later you will understand why).

First, on the sides of the tabletop, stepping back from its edge no more than 25-30 mm, attach support No. 2 and main No. 3 bars. For fixation in this case, there are two options: they can be attached with dowels and PVA glue, or with stainless steel screws for wood through the body of the tabletop. At the same time, do not forget to take into account that the thrust bar must be at least 50 mm longer than the main one in each direction.

Now let's figure out how to do it correct connection legs with the main bar. To do this, round off the ends of the main support post No. 5 with a jigsaw and grind the edges so that you don’t get a splinter during use. Round off the second support post only with bottom side, and at the top you make a cut with a slope of 45⁰, so that the sharp end of the leg fits into the corner between the thrust block and the table top.

We continue to assemble the folding one and mount the swivel unit between bar No. 3 and post No. 5. As you probably guessed, you need to drill a hole through post No. 5, the diameter of which is equal to the stud, and in bar No. 3, make this hole 2-2.5 mm smaller. Now screw a locknut onto one end of the stud or use a bolt. Put a washer under the head, insert it into the hole in the leg, put the washer on the other side and screw on the nut (preferably with a lock nut) so that the bolt has a slight play in the hole.

Put on the washer and screw bolt No. 9 into the end hole of bar No. 3. But at the same time, it is better to do the final tightening of the bolt or stud into block No. 3 not through the head, but with an open-end wrench, pressing the nut with the lock nut against the block. Perform an identical operation from the other end of the tabletop and screw the strips for tie No. 6 on the sides (almost near the floor). This completes the assembly.

Video: One of the options for a folding table

Finishing

Prefabricated plank tabletop, varnished

Now all that remains is the face processing of the wood and here you can go in different ways, but this will also depend on the material from which the tabletop was made. The simplest option is to cover the lumber with stain, and after it dries, coat it with several layers of varnish. In addition, you can buy varnish with stain - here, too, only two or three layers will be enough. This is suitable for both plywood and solid wood.

Boards after firing

The most advanced way to design such furniture is to age the wood, and the easiest and cheapest way to do this is to fire it, but this is not for plywood, but for solid wood. Here you can use a hand torch, which is powered by gas canister. The flame, burning the fibers, emphasizes the structure of the wood (you can see an example in the top photo). After firing, the boards and bars are opened with colorless varnish, and when it dries and you go on a picnic, you will have appropriate place where to place food and drinks.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I want to say that someone is interested in a folding table-cabinet, which you can make with your own hands at home. But the point is that it's more complex design, besides, such a topic will take a separate article.