Caring for roses in autumn, preparing for winter. How to cover hybrid tea roses for the winter Protecting bush roses

HOW TO COVER ROSES CORRECTLY? COVERING ROSES... MASTER CLASS. To cover or not to cover? - this is the question that worries all owners of rose bushes in October. And if you cover, how, with what and, most importantly, when? Before covering, dig up the soil under the roses (on the bayonet of a shovel), trying not to damage the roots. Shoots of scrub and climbing roses need to be bent to the ground and laid on a layer of spruce branches. In order not to break powerful plants, the bushes are dug up on one side and laid, pinning the shoots to the ground. Then the bushes are hilled up - or rather, a mound of dry earth at least 30 cm high is added to the base of the bush. As a result, pruned hybrid tea roses and floribunda are almost completely covered with earth. U bush roses(after they have been bent to the ground) they spud the base of the bush, you can sprinkle the shoots with earth. Hilling helps to keep the plant large number buds, and in the spring you can use any pruning method. The air temperature under such a reliable earthen shelter (even in the absence of snow cover) remains significantly higher for some time than outside. True, you shouldn’t rush into hilling roses for the winter either. It's better to do this in two stages. From October 10–15, soil is lightly added to the base of the bushes to protect them from unexpected early frosts. And they finally spud up before the onset of constant cold weather. It is undesirable to use pure peat, sawdust or sand - they are very moisture-intensive and with sharp temperature fluctuations in winter an ice crust may form around the roses. From its pressure, cracks will appear on the plant bark, through which infection will penetrate. Hilling – best view protection of the root system. But - attention - the soil is not raked from the flower beds, as this would expose the roots of the plants, but is added (this can be compost, humus, or just loose soil). In addition, the soil between the rows can be covered with a layer of old straw manure, chopped bark or rotted leaves. When the ground freezes slightly (at middle lane, as a rule, at the end of October - in the first ten days of November), the roses are completely covered. It is better to do this in dry weather. One of the simplest materials used to cover roses is a layer of spruce branches or dry foliage at least 10 cm thick. However, it is reliable in relatively mild winters. If there is no spruce branches, you can use oak leaves and plant residues that do not rot over the winter. More reliable way covering roses - air-dry. Frames 50–60 cm high are installed above the bushes, any insulation material is laid on top and on the sides, for example, waterproofing paper, glassine, cardboard. Cover with plastic wrap. The end sides of the shelter are closed when the temperature drops below –10 C. This method is called air-dry because it protects the bushes from the penetration of excess moisture, and a layer of air protects the plants from hypothermia. This method is especially reliable in harsh snowy winters. But it can only be used by those who are constantly on their site or come here early spring: with air-dry cover, roses need to be ventilated periodically already in March. The main covering material is snow; it is this that will most reliably protect roses from frost. Everything else - spruce branches, foliage, lutrasil - serves only to detain him. At 25–30 degree frosts under a layer of snow of 50–70 cm, the temperature does not drop below –4–5 C. Therefore, the shoots are bent to the ground so that they are necessarily covered with snow. If there is little snow cover, you will have to add more snow. If snow does not fall for a very long time, then the roses may die, despite all the efforts made. But in those cases when a lot of snow falls from the very beginning of winter and it lies without melting until spring, modern garden roses can winter in the middle zone without any additional shelter. Cover roses gradually, and not in one step. After the first frosts, they are hilled up, and at a stable low temperature (-5 -7C) they are insulated with sawdust, peat and covered with healthy fallen leaves (preferably oak) and spruce branches. Use sharp pruning shears to trim the bushes. The height of the shoots after pruning should be no more than 40-50 cm. Remove all leaves from the shoots, cover them with earth and sprinkle with sand or peat. When persistent frosts occur (-5 -7C), cover them with dry leaves and spruce branches.

Who grows roses at their dacha or personal plot, he knows for sure that this capricious beauty, glorified by Antoine de Saint Exupéry in “The Little Prince,” really demands regular care, corresponding to the season. The stage of preparing rose bushes for winter, especially in regions with a harsh frosty climate, is an important task for both beginners and experienced gardeners. And there are no trifles in this.

Everything is important here: at what time, with what and how to cover the bushes of an adult rose, how and with what to feed these ornamental plants so that they do not freeze or get wet during the winter and prolonged spring, but are successfully reborn to your joy. Long-standing floriculture experience has developed completely clear and useful measures, which this article will introduce you to.

It is very important for novice gardeners not to overdo it and not to play it safe: do not rush as fast as you can at the first light frost to quickly cover the roses. Such panicky zeal can cause them direct harm, if not death. You need to skillfully transfer rose bushes into winter vegetation mode to get the best result.

Strange as it may sound, you need to start preparing roses for winter in hot July according to the principle: “Prepare the sleigh in summer.” In fact, this is due to the regime of feeding them this month only with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers.

The final mineral dressing should be potassium magnesia, which contains potassium, which is responsible for the development of the root system and the formation of wood skeletal branches, which accordingly prepare all shoots for the winter cold. In turn, magnesium helps the formation of leaf and flower buds, as well as shoots for the successful growing season of beautiful rose bushes next year.

Removing excess foliage

This artificial measure, which seems unnecessary at first glance, is, firstly, determined by the need to prepare the plants for a state of seasonal dormancy. Secondly, this is a sanitary measure against the emergence in the mass of leaves that have not completely fallen off of a favorable molding environment for rot and the development of harmful microbes and fungi. Thirdly, in the autumn crown of the rose there are already many leaves damaged by black spot or other infections.

By cutting off excess and defective leaves, we prevent future seasonal problems associated with common rose diseases, and we also make the process of wintering under cover safe and successful. Dispose of cut leaves by burning, preventing the spread of spores, microbes and viruses in the next season or significantly reducing their impact.

Important to know! In no case should you tear off excess leaves, which leads to injury to future buds and shoots, but cut them with clean and very sharp pruners or scissors, and for convenience, put them in a trash container immediately. Be sure to cut off underdeveloped inflorescences and fruits, thereby preventing them from rotting under cover.

If you have several bushes, and among them are climbing ones or a whole rose garden, then such a measure of preparation becomes too burdensome and almost impossible. Here it is important to distribute the forces and not put off pruning the leaves for one go; starting in September, carry out this sanitary pruning in a dosed manner. If it is not possible to completely trim all the leaves under the conditions of your rose garden, then you should first of all limit yourself to cutting out defective or diseased leaves. Those leaves that you do not have time to trim, spray with Bordeaux mixture, copper or iron sulfate, as well as the fungicide "Maxim". Treat the soil around the bushes with ash.

If the variety of rose bushes allows their branches to be bent to the ground, excluding upright hybrid tea varieties, then the pruning option loses its relevance. Such specimens are cut to a height of at least 50 centimeters so that they can be covered.

Before sheltering for the winter, the rose bushes are hilled up, or rather covered with a mound, so that during this cultivation the root system of the bush is not exposed. It is better to cover the top with spruce branches, but do not use sawdust, which draws out and retains excess moisture, which can cause the root collar of the bushes to become warm.

Climbing rose - pruning and bending

It is more appropriate to prune these varieties of roses in the spring. Weak and thin shoots should be cut shorter, and strong shoots should be cut to half their length. Leave the most powerful and healthy ones without pruning. This will make it possible to form a cascade crown, in which in the summer the entire bush will bloom on new shoots, and not just its upper part.

When pruning a climbing rose in autumn, preparing it for winter shelter, the bulk of the shoots should be preserved, which will allow the bushes to retain vegetative strength in the spring and quickly be reborn into a lush and flowering crown.

The process of working, and especially bending down to cover a climbing rose in winter, is dangerous - they have large, frequently spaced thorns. For this reason, your equipment should be reliable, from safety glasses to thick gloves, especially the rest of your clothing.

Amateurs may think that bending a rose bush means laying it completely on the ground. Not everything is so tough - it is enough to bend the entire bush by at least 1 meter. But, it is clear that this is also difficult to do right away due to the density and thickness of the main branches. You will have to accustom the climbing rose to a bent position, even for several weeks.

How to properly bend down climbing rose bushes

• Firstly, do not wait for stable sub-zero air temperatures, at which rose branches become fragile to break without support.
• Secondly, to gradually and gently bend down the main branches, use a strong cord, which is tied with one end to the top of the branches and the other end to the bottom of the trunk. Initially, stretch it as far as possible without breaking the bend of the branches, and then, even within one day, gradually shortening it by re-tying it.
• Thirdly, this process can be strengthened by placing boards on the bush, under the weight of which the rose branches bend to the desired angle of inclination.

Another thing is young bushes of climbing roses. It is enough to tie its shoots at a height of one meter with a rope and lay them out in a ring around the bush and then fix them, otherwise they will “spread”.

Important to know! To avoid damage to the branches being bent, they need to be tilted in the direction of the grafting site, as if “along the fur”.

Sufficiently bent bushes to continue the process of winter covering should be secured with arches of suitable material, or better yet, plastic ones flexible pipes, which are frost-resistant and suitable for repeated use. Due to their flexibility, they can cover the entire protected bush of any size.

Optimal for growing and covering for the winter are special support grids, which can be hung on special hooks on a wall or on a support pole. Such trellises make it possible in the fall to remove them together with the branches of the bush attached to them and, taking precautions against the bending of the skeletal branches, lay the grating down directly on the soil. Place it on the ground first wooden boards or spruce branches so that the branches do not touch the ground.

It is important to know that roses of any type and variety, if possible, would be better to bend to the ground rather than cut them.

Rodent protection. Like all plants sheltered for the winter, roses are subject to attack by rodents escaping under shelter from the cold, where they have “a table and a home.” The right “treat” for them may be burdock thorns, black root, but a more reliable one is the waterproof poisoned bait “Cyclone”

How and what to cover roses for the winter?

Finally, the bush is completely prepared for shelter, and all that remains is to wait for dry, cold weather, but not lower than 5 cold degrees C, in order to reduce the humidity of the protected object to a minimum. We emphasize that the indicated temperature is very comfortable for rose bushes, because at it hardening occurs.

Covering at warmer degrees can lead, with the arrival of seasonal thaws, to an increase in warm humidity and rotting and even death of plants.

Frame covering of roses for the winter

Nowadays, progress has reached the point that the market will offer you ready-made protective frames for any plants. It is enough to buy in a specialized store or order on the appropriate website with delivery via mail. For those who can and love to do everything with their own hands, there will definitely be means at hand to create this simple-to-make but very easy-to-use frame.

It can be made from thin metal-plastic pipe, very flexible and pliable, from which you can make two cross-connected “pins” of the required height, install them above the plant. Its four support tubes can be moved apart along the perimeter of the protected bush. All that remains is to wrap it in an insulating cloth, connect it at the side and tie it at the top, dig it in with earth around the perimeter and lay it with objects that fix it with their weight, better with stones or bricks.

We remind you once again that use as insulation sawdust absolutely not!

If the cover fabric does not allow itself to be tied at the top, it is better to make the top cover in the form of a conical “splash”, securely fasten it so that the wind does not blow it off and the snow accumulating on top does not fall through. The greenhouse effect under such a frame is created due to the internal insulated air mass.

Ruberoid, polyethylene film and other synthetic modern insulating materials are used for winter covering of plants in regions with severe frosty winters.

With proper shelter, they are able to protect even from severe and prolonged frosts, although they also have a dangerous drawback - they collect water condensation due to the greenhouse effect, which predisposes to rotting, and one cannot delay in ventilating through the ends during periods of thaw and early spring and gradual exit roses from the shelter so that they do not get burned in direct sunlight. Even during the first “walks” after opening, roses should be shaded while they adapt.

Winter covering of roses with spruce branches

Inexpensive and natural remedy To cover roses for the winter, some use spruce branches, under which a wire frame is also needed, which will become good remedy and snow retention and protection from its load. Snow is known to be an excellent insulating material.

Recently, nonwoven materials created on the basis of sized cellulose fibers have been widely used as both winter and greenhouse shelters. It's about about lutrasil or spunbond. Lightweight, transmitting light and to some extent air, these materials come in different densities, thin and thick.

With careful handling they can last up to five seasons. As a cover for roses, you should choose thick spunbond folded in two layers.

A valuable quality of non-woven fabric is its ability to prevent moisture from passing through from the outside, and internal evaporation freely penetrates outside, which eliminates the accumulation of condensation. The covering device not only breathes, but also does not isolate the plant from light - in the spring you can immediately open the plants that have wintered under it without fear of sunburn.

Cover nonwoven materials If necessary, you can have several bushes growing nearby at once. It is troublesome and responsible only to fix them in case of sharp winds and heavy snowfalls, but this can be done using the same “pins” made of a metal-plastic tube, having previously stitched them with strong twine before covering them so that the non-woven fabric does not fall through or tear, touching the cut branches of bushes roses

Even if you, our dear reader, are a novice gardener, these simple rules will help you take real care of your “pink” pets. There is confidence that the coming winter will be simple step life and growth and will not bring disappointments and mistakes. Good luck!

Dill spreads well by self-sowing, so many summer residents do not consider it necessary to sow this crop every year on their site. But everyone understands that dill is different from dill. And the greens of carefully grown dill in the garden are, as a rule, superior in taste and aroma to the greens of dill that grows on its own. In this article we will tell you how to have green dill in the beds in sufficient quantities with early spring until late autumn.

Among plants that boast variegated foliage, alpinia claims to be not only the rarest, but also the most original crop. It simultaneously reminds of bamboos and calathea arrowroots, and sometimes even of vriesea. True, it resembles the latter only in its inflorescences. Luxurious leaves, most often covered with variegated contrasting stripes, look so modern that it is impossible not to admire the beauty of their impeccable patterns and shine.

Vegetarian cabbage rolls from savoy cabbage with mushrooms - steamed cabbage rolls for dietary, vegetarian and Lenten menu. Stuffed cabbage rolls are incredibly tasty, very appetizing, and, if applicable to food, beautiful, unlike their counterparts from white cabbage, stewed in a Dutch oven or fried in a frying pan. Savoy cabbage is tastier than white cabbage, the head is loose, it is easier to separate it into individual leaves. The color of the leaves ranges from soft green to emerald.

IN winter time Every summer resident is looking forward to spring and is happy to open the season with the first plantings of flowers and vegetable crops for seedlings. But, unfortunately, the space on the windowsill is limited, and it is not always possible to place the required number of seedlings in cups in the apartment. In addition, some of the crops may simply not sprout, some will die... And for us, summer residents, no matter how much we plant, it’s not enough! Therefore, almost every gardener buys at least some seedlings.

Growing annuals in the garden has at least two advantages over growing perennial flowers. Firstly, most popular annual plants bloom profusely throughout the growing season. Secondly, many annuals sow freely and appear in the garden year after year with minimal participation from the grower. Which annuals can be planted only once, and then, following simple techniques, can be seen in the garden every season?

You can make jellied meat and meat salad with onions from pork knuckle. The shank, especially the hind shank, is a very tasty and affordable part of the pork carcass that you can feed small company. A 2 kg shank will make a bowl of meat salad and large plate aspic. There will still be some meat broth left over, which I advise you to use to cook cabbage soup or borscht. For this dish, we take a hind shank weighing from 1.7 to 2 kilograms; I advise you to ask the butcher for the meatiest one.

Eggplants require sunny but short days, medium-warm temperatures without sweltering heat, sufficient moisture, but without flooding the root system. It is quite difficult to provide such conditions in the open ground of most regions of Russia. That's why before eggplants grown only in protected soil conditions. With the development of selection, it became possible to grow eggplants in open ground not only in the southern regions, but also in the middle zone.

Among predator plants, sundew rightly claims to be the brightest and most expressive beauty. This plant attracts, first of all, its unusual textures and play of colors. But the feeding mechanism of this swamp and quite hardy miracle is so exotic that it is very easy to forget about sundews as plants, primarily ornamental ones. Sundews are quite demanding when it comes to humidity, but they are not that difficult to grow in ordinary living spaces.

Chocolate cake with custard made from simple and affordable ingredients turns out to be so delicious that rarely anyone limits themselves to just one piece. The sponge cakes are moist and feel like they are made from real dark chocolate, even though the recipe only calls for cocoa powder. The creamy custard is delicate and light and goes well with chocolate sponge cake. All this splendor of flavors is complemented by coconut flakes, a simple ingredient, but in this recipe, like a cherry on the cake, it comes in handy.

Although the calendar spring begins in March, it is very difficult to call this month spring. But May is already a real long-awaited spring, filled with aromas and the multicolor of awakened nature. Fresh young leaves on trees and bushes attract the eye, yearning for greenery during the long months of winter. In May, the parade of primroses continues in the garden, delighting with variegated foliage and flowering ornamental shrubs, perennials, conifers are renewed.

In the middle zone, the shape of the grapes suggests the possibility of shelter on winter period, which means the guideline should be to keep the head of the bush at soil level. Even further north on big harvest there is no need to count, but for such areas there are also pruning principles. The article discusses the sleeve-fan scheme for forming a grape bush, often used in the middle zone, and the cordon scheme, which has shown itself well in regions with a more severe climate.

Beef with eggplants with vegetable sauce in the oven is a simple, very tasty and not very high-calorie dish, which is quite relevant nowadays. The sauce is made from vegetables only, no flour, sugar, milk or cream. The meat is without fat, and yet it turns out juicy and tender. Can be replaced with chicken fillet or veal. The eggplants do not need to be fried first, just add a little salt to make them soft. I recommend preparing a light yogurt sauce for the finished dish.

Houseplants are much more dependent on fertilizing than garden plants. Thanks to feeding, they receive everything they need for growth and flowering. The substrate is depleted several months after transplantation. And if nutrients are not replenished, plants quickly begin to show signs of macro- and micronutrient deficiency. The leaves signal it first and most clearly. What elements will the leaves “tell” about the deficiency or excess of? indoor plants?

Duck with oranges in French - exquisite, juicy, with golden skin. This baked duck will decorate any festive table, and it is easy to prepare, although, compared to traditional fried chicken, it takes a little longer. To speed up the process and preserve the released juices, use a sleeve or a baking bag of a suitable size, remember that not every bag can fit a large duck! Serve the duck with the sauce and filling left over after baking.

Purslane is a well-known, widespread weed all over the world, which has a number of qualities for which all gardeners unanimously hate it. One of them is ineradicability. Purslane is so resilient that even one seed can be the beginning of this weed taking over an area. To remove purslane from the garden and garden, patience, knowledge and precision in carrying out measures to destroy it are required. In this article we will look at methods of combating purslane on the site.

Roses are my favorite flowers. The perfection of shape, delicate scent, exquisitely carved leaves, thin petals of various shades make roses the true queens of gardens.

And lovers of these noble beauties are not afraid of delicacy and whimsicality park roses, which grow and bloom only if carefully and proper care behind them, and overwinter in the open ground only if there is high-quality shelter.

The most important thing is if you want to admire abundant flowering your beauties all season long, and to keep them intact for years, you need to know how to cover roses for the winter correctly. This is what we will talk about.

At the same time, you need to understand that proper shelter for the winter alone will not ensure good health for your roses. For that. In order for the prose not only to successfully overwinter in the open ground, you need to choose a place for planting, regularly feed it, water it properly, prune it in spring and autumn, and prepare it for wintering.

In addition, you need to know exactly when to cover your roses. Then the flower will truly thank you, to the envy of all its neighbors.

Correct fit

Let's start with the most basic thing - choice right place for planting roses. This flower loves the sun and warmth very much, and cannot tolerate drafts at all, they are destructive for it. Accordingly, taking into account these preferences, you need to choose a place on the site - it should be well lit and protected from the wind.

The southern, south-eastern and south-western sides of the site are best suited - the roses will have enough light, they will be able to develop without harming themselves. And it will be quite easy to insulate roses in such areas.

It is advisable to plant roses in the spring, when the soil has warmed up sufficiently and the threat of spring frosts has passed. which are very sensitive at night, especially in the northern regions or the Volga region.

However, roses tolerate short frosts well, and they are not afraid of even a fairly strong drop in temperature, down to minus fifteen. Roses tolerate dampness much worse.

It is not advisable to plant roses in the fall, because they may not have time to take root before frost, and even winter covering with spruce branches or special covering material will not save them from death.

The hole for planting should be wide and deep enough - the rose has a powerful root system, and she needs a lot of space in order to feel good.

The soil should be fertile, light, loose and nutritious. It is necessary to include organic fertilizer, for example, manure. Unlike many other flowers, roses tolerate even fresh organic matter well.

The distance between rose bushes should be at least a meter - this flower loves space, and this circumstance must be taken into account when planting. In addition, it will be more convenient to cover roses for the winter if there is enough space between the plants.

After the seedling is planted in open ground, the rose bush itself will take about a year to form. The main thing for correct formation bush beautiful shape- this is regular pinching of shoots. more precisely, their tips. If pinched regularly, the bush will grow and take shape.

Some advise removing buds on young bushes so as not to weaken the plant. but personally I have never raised my hand to do this.

The first year the rose bush doesn't bloom very profusely, so I don't think a few flowers will do much to weaken the plant. But how much pleasure the first blossoming buds bring, how they delight gardeners!

Proper watering

Roses love abundant, but not very frequent watering with warm, settled water. It is advisable that water gets directly onto the roots; it is better to avoid getting water on the foliage.

Roses should be watered either in the morning, before the sun begins to get hot, or in the evening, after the heat subsides. If the sky is overcast, you can water the flowers at any time.

Before watering, the soil under the rose bushes needs to be slightly loosened so that a crust does not form - roses love it when oxygen flows freely to the roots. And water in loose soil will not stagnate; roses do not like this.

Stagnant water, like overwatering, is dangerous for roses because the roots can rot. Therefore, it is better to underfill the water than to overfill it.

You need to water roses about once a week, this is quite enough. If it rains, watering should, of course, be reduced.

Watering in autumn is different from summer. From about the end of August, watering should be reduced, because excess moisture promotes the appearance of new shoots, which will prevent the rose from overwintering well and will freeze, creating the risk of infection entering the bush.

When the shoots freeze, and then. directly in the shelter. during a thaw or closer to spring. are starting to thaw. the risk of disease and rotting of the bush is very high. Therefore, such a threat should be avoided.

If the autumn in your region is hot, then it is better to continue abundant watering. This will help the bush prepare for the winter.

Proper pruning

Pruning rose bushes is very important, including for good wintering, so you need to know how to do it.

The first pruning should be done in the spring, after removing the covering material, when the rose begins to wake up after wintering. All old, dry and frozen shoots should be cut out approximately up to the second bud.

In the spring, as soon as the sun begins to warm up, the rose actively grows - new shoots and buds appear, and the stem becomes stronger. therefore, you need to remove all thin, underdeveloped and weak shoots, and also cut out all the shoots that appeared on the stem below the grafting level. Otherwise, your rose will start to run wild.

Removing lower growth in spring - prerequisite to form a rose bush.

If you look closely, you'll notice that the leaves on these shoots resemble rosehip leaves rather than glossy, smooth pink leaves. Now, if this growth is not removed, the rose will begin to turn into a rose hip.

Around the same time, during the first pruning, the rose bush needs to be fed for the first time - with liquid mineral or organic fertilizer.

Pruning varies. and it depends on how the rose overwintered - if you see. If the bush feels bad, then the pruning should be strong, until the second bud - then the bush will renew itself faster and come to its senses.

If the shoots of the rose look good after covering, and the bush looks healthy, you can carry out light formative pruning in the spring, cutting off the shoots very little - with such pruning, at least 10 buds will remain on the stem.

If you don’t know what kind of pruning is best, do medium (moderate), you can’t go wrong - with such pruning, 5 - 7 buds remain on the shoot.

When the roses fade, the remaining flowers can be removed. It is not necessary to do this, there is no clear opinion on this matter, and discussions on this topic do not stop. Personally, I remove dried flowers, simply because the bush looks more aesthetically pleasing without them.
In autumn, roses do not require heavy pruning; you can simply cut off dry flowers, slightly shorten the branches and remove those shoots that grow inside the bush - they are not needed and only interfere with the formation of the bush.

Sheltering roses for the winter

Closer to the onset of cold weather, you should definitely take care of covering your roses.

IN recent years Many varieties of roses have been bred that can winter without shelter, but in our climate it is better not to take risks - roses may die if the winter is too cold. Allowing roses to winter without shelter, without fear of their death, is possible only in the southern regions of our country.

You need to cover roses around the end of October - beginning of November, when it is already quite cold. The roots begin to “fall asleep” at the end of September, and if you insulate them too early, they may “wake up”, but this is not necessary. Therefore, shelter must be timely.

There is also no need to “bundle” your roses too much - they may begin to rot, and this is much worse for roses than frost. Therefore, the question of how to cover roses must be approached very carefully.

First, just a few days before sheltering, the soil under the roses must be carefully dug up without damaging the roots. Then the water from the autumn rains will go inside and not ice up around the bushes.

The leaves at the bottom of the bushes should be removed, after which you need to add a little sand with ash or just dry, loose earth to the roots of the rose. All this needs to be done around the end of October.

Until the cold weather sets in, there is nothing else you need to do for now. When the sub-zero temperature lasts for about ten days, then you can start working on the shelter itself.

After this, the roses need to be hilled up to about 15-20 cm, and dry foliage should be sprinkled on top. The lashes should be tied and laid on polystyrene foam.

They can be covered with spruce branches on top, which are pressed to the ground with metal arches and covered with a special covering material. This will provide your roses with dry shelter.

If winters in your area are not very severe, then your roses can be covered simply with loose, dry (necessarily dry!) ​​soil, pouring it into a “slide” and gradually increasing the cone to about 15-20 cm.

This is quite enough to rose bushes felt comfortable in winter. You can cover the roses with peat according to the same scheme, pouring it in a cone to a height of up to 20 cm.

It is very important not to delay taking shelter in the spring. This needs to be done gradually, starting from the second ten days of March. By the beginning of April, all coverings should be removed, the soil should be removed from the roots, and after about a week you can begin to trim and feed the roses.