Insulation for external wood. Instructions for insulating the walls of a wooden house from the inside

It is necessary to protect the walls from the cold. There is a large selection of materials for this. Insulation of the facades of private houses in regions where it is very cold is carried out with some materials, while others will be suitable in areas with constant precipitation. You will have to choose insulation depending on the conditions.

The process of insulating the facade of a house with polystyrene foam

By performing the work, we achieve solutions to the following tasks:

• protect walls from the effects of climate change;
• eliminate heat leakage from the house;
• increase resistance to temperature changes;
• close cold bridges and cracks.

If done correctly, it will allow you to maintain a constant temperature in the room, which will reduce heating costs.

Common types of insulation

To insulate the facade of a private house, you can take one type of material, or use combined thermal insulation. For example, when heat-insulating boards are covered with plaster on top, which will protect them from external influences.

To fasten the material, a reinforcing mesh is used.

Insulation materials

The following are used as insulation materials:

1. Mineral wool. Suitable for insulating external walls, especially for finishing facades wooden houses. Sold as tiles or mats. The density of the material is about 80 kg/m3, it has a thickness of 50 and 100 mm, dimensions - 50 by 100 cm and 60 by 120 cm. Such parameters can withstand temperature changes from + 35 to - 30˚ C, the material is non-flammable.

   Insulating a building with mineral wool slabs

2. Glass wool - it contains limestone, dolomite, sand, and other fillers. Tolerates mechanical loads and protects from bad weather. Disadvantage - heavy styling, hands and face need to be covered. There is a type that contains an additional layer of foil or fabric so that the particles do not separate from the base. The price of the material is relatively low.
   
3. Basalt wool is made from particles of basalt rocks that are connected to each other. Porous insulation can withstand temperatures up to +1000˚С, which means it is fire resistant. The cellular structure absorbs extraneous noise, and hydrophobic components help not absorb moisture. However, basalt wool contains phenol, which is harmful.
   
4. Slag wool is obtained as a result of processing waste from metallurgy and consists of pores. Has a high thermal insulation coefficient. The disadvantage is that it gets wet quickly, so it is not suitable for façade insulation. wooden house. It is best used for thermal insulation of panel walls.
   
5. Polystyrene foam is widely used for insulating the facades of wooden houses. One of quick ways thermal insulation, applicable to different types of walls. This lightweight material does not harbor microorganisms and does not deform. But it is easily flammable and emits harmful substances. There is foam impregnated with a special composition, it is better to work with it. There is also a risk that rodents will live in the foam, but with proper installation this is excluded. When buying polystyrene foam as a material for insulating the facades of private houses, choose high-density slabs, up to 5 cm thick. They come in three sizes: 50 x 100 cm, 100 x 100 cm and 200 x 100 cm.

   Installation of foam plastic sheets on the facade of the house

6. Ecowool. It contains paper waste, boric acid, and sodium tetraborate. Ecowool is used in rooms with high humidity. It absorbs moisture well, which, with good ventilation, releases into the atmosphere. Disadvantages - a gradual decrease in the level of thermal conductivity, a decrease in volume. This can be avoided by adding extra insulation.
   

Ecowool is installed using special equipment - an inflatable pneumatic device. In this case, you will need services for insulating the facades of private houses, which will be provided by specialists with experience in working with ecowool. After all, its installation depends on the state of the atmosphere in the area. With the dry method, dust may form; with the wet method, the material will take a long time to dry.

The latter method is more reliable: ecowool is evenly distributed and compacted, the level of sound and heat insulation of the building increases.
It is not recommended to use ecowool near fire, otherwise it will smolder.


Advantages of ecowool:

• its composition does not contain harmful substances;
• has increased ;
• low material consumption.

Expanded polystyrene or its other name - penoplex - is also used for finishing and insulating facades. The material is made of polystyrene foam. It has low moisture absorption, a smooth surface, strength, but has low adhesion. Watch video instructions for proper insulation facade of the house from the outside.

The procedure for insulating with mineral wool

Installation is carried out using the following technology:

• make sheathing and place hangers;
• for rigidity during laying of the material, profiles are used;
• the plates are tightly inserted into the cells of the frame and fixed with dowels and glue;
• carefully process the joints;
• performed .

Then the surface is plastered or covered with clapboard.

Ventilated and non-ventilated facades

The main feature of ventilated insulation is the presence between the wall and a ventilated gap in which air flows draw out the moisture formed on the walls. Sometimes a combined technology is used: the building is finished with large aerated concrete slabs, and then faced with the “wet” method with clinker tiles or artificial stone.

High-quality home insulation is the key to a comfortable life in the cold season. Therefore, to avoid being disturbed by frost in winter, you should think about the choice of material and insulation technology in advance. This applies to all cases, including insulating a wooden house from the outside. Let's consider what you should pay attention to when choosing a suitable material, as well as how to do everything you need yourself if we are talking about a building made of wood.

There are a lot of thermal insulation materials. Some of them are very popular among consumers, while others, on the contrary, are used quite rarely. Let's look at what characteristics determine popularity and which options are used most often:

• stone wool in slabs is a lightweight and convenient material that can be easily transported and can be cut even with a regular knife. These slabs are laid between the frame elements and then covered with a vapor barrier and waterproofing material from different sides. The main thing is not to compress or compact the mats while transporting them, as they are easily deformed;

• ecowool is a material created on the basis of cellulose, which is compressed and packaged. For insulation with its help, you can use two options. In the first case, I take the cotton wool out of the open package, knead it slightly, and press it into the walls. It is difficult to say unequivocally how good this method is. Some manufacturers claim that with such insulation you will not have problems for 10 to 20 years. Although it is impossible to completely deny the possibility of shrinkage and deterioration of the thermal insulation properties of the material. The second method is called wet, since ecowool is sprayed onto the walls, due to which the material adheres to the frame and the risk of subsidence is eliminated;
• polystyrene foam is a very common and cheap way to insulate a building. Its low cost is due to its fragility, brittleness, as well as the need to additionally cover it with a moisture-proof membrane in order to avoid the accumulation of condensation in the future. It is important that for insulation you need to buy only unpressed sheets of polystyrene foam;
• polyurethane foam is a material consisting of two separate components mixed together under the influence of high pressure. When it comes into contact with air, it behaves in the same way as regular polyurethane foam - it expands. Insulating a wooden house with polyurethane foam is quite effective and reduces heat loss to a minimum. In addition, it has the property of repelling water;
• insulation materials natural origin- these are various mixtures and slabs made from sawdust, straw, clay, etc. The cost of this method is low, but when choosing this option, you need to be prepared to tinker. One of the easy-to-use natural insulation materials is, perhaps, flax fibers.

Other materials used for external insulation of house walls

In addition to traditional materials, there are several more options that, although they have not yet gained such popularity, still often surpass the characteristics of those already considered.

1. Basalt slabs for. The price is the only drawback that can be found in this material. Despite its similarity with mineral wool, this material is many times superior to it in terms of technical indicators and characteristics. It provides excellent thermal insulation and at the same time is able to withstand heavy loads and temperature changes. Over time, it does not shrink and does not lose its characteristics. So its considerable cost, in comparison with other materials, can be called more than justified.
2. Penoplex is a material that is quickly gaining popularity, despite the fact that it has recently appeared on the market. The material is extruded polystyrene foam, characterized by low weight and good moisture resistance. This allows it to be used without laying additional waterproofing layers.
3. “Arctic” insulation consists of synthetic fibers that are bonded together under the influence of hot air. The material is excellent for use in the harshest weather conditions. This insulation is considered breathable and provides good thermoregulation both in winter and in winter. summer time.

Helpful advice! When working with any type of insulation material, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment to prevent fibers from entering the respiratory tract and on the skin, as this can cause irritation.

Advantages of external insulation of a wooden house over internal insulation

Choice the right way carrying out work on insulating a wooden house is the key to a quality result. Internal insulation of houses is used extremely rarely, since thick layer material will significantly reduce the area of ​​the room. In addition, insulating the walls in a wooden house from the inside will lead to the fact that the outer side of the walls will still be exposed to cold, which will lead to freezing of the wood.

Incorrectly carried out work and non-compliance with the insulation technology of a frame house can lead to the fact that the tree begins to rot from the inside and becomes favorable environment for the activity of fungi and mold. That is why the method is no less important than the choice of material suitable for this purpose.

But when insulating externally, it is also important to ensure that vapors can escape freely. Otherwise, the wood will deteriorate and it will be impossible to control the condition of the walls.

Features of the technology of facade insulation with mineral wool

When laying the thermal insulation layer, it is necessary to provide waterproofing to the walls. Glassine is excellent for this purpose. Despite its low cost, it does its job perfectly. Initially, you need to cut strips from it and secure them to the frame using a stapler. The step should not exceed 12 cm.

Glassine sheets are glued overlapping so that the overlap is about 10 cm. This helps prevent condensation from getting on the heat-insulating material.

Helpful advice! If, after insulating the house, you plan to cover it with siding, then you need to make sure that there is free space between it and the insulation (approximately 30-50 cm). This will not allow moisture to linger in the frame.

When the glassine is secured, you can proceed to laying the insulation. Minvata in in this case – great option, since it is not prone to fire and is easy to install. The main thing is that the thickness of mineral wool for insulating the walls is selected correctly. For temperate climate this figure should be 80-100 mm, and for regions with severe winters, material with a thickness of 150 mm can be used.

The technology for insulating facades with mineral wool provides for the following sequence of work:

• it is necessary to measure the distance between the posts;
• to the result obtained, add 5 cm to the allowance on each side;
• Using a sharp knife, we cut the mineral slabs for wall insulation to the required size and lay them on the wall on top of the waterproofing;
• The joints between the frame and the insulation are additionally covered with cut strips 3-4 cm wide.

A layer of vapor barrier material must be laid on top. Penophenol, which is attached to the frame using a construction stapler, is excellent. After this, all that remains is to cover the walls with siding or edged boards depending on your desire, the procedure for insulating a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool can be considered complete.

Helpful advice! Penophenol should be laid strictly in a horizontal direction, leaving 5 cm joints so that there is a foil part on the outside.

Facade insulation with extruded polystyrene foam: material features

Expanded polystyrene has an extremely low thermal conductivity, which allows it to be effectively used as a thermal insulation material, used for external cladding walls

Extruded polystyrene foam was first used in the USA, where it immediately gained popularity due to its characteristics. Its production involves mixing a special composition consisting of carbon dioxide and freon with granular polymer. The resulting mixture is fed under high temperature into a special apparatus called an extruder. Its task is to foam the composition and ensure high-quality mixing of all components.

The mixture obtained in the extruder is formed into slabs, which harden to form a lightweight and durable thermal insulation material. The advantages of this technology for insulating walls with penoplex from the outside include the low vapor permeability of the material, as well as durability and resistance to external factors.

According to manufacturers, the service life of this material can reach 50 years if the installation technology has been followed. In terms of its structure, polystyrene foam consists of 90% air, which is enclosed in cells.

Expanded polystyrene is always used specifically for external wall insulation, since the material has a considerable volume, and internal insulation of premises will lead to significant losses free space. If consider, standard thickness polystyrene foam for wall insulation 80-100 mm or 30-40 mm, laid in two layers, then such losses of usable space inside the house will be very noticeable.

At the same time, the effectiveness of this method should not be underestimated, since by using this heat insulator, savings of about 50% are achieved on heating costs. Although one cannot help but notice the rather high price for the work. Insulation of polystyrene foam walls from the outside, taking into account all the necessary finishing works, will cost from 1300 rubles per 1 m².

Helpful advice! In order to achieve the desired effect, it is necessary to carry out work at a temperature of at least 5ºC and in as dry air as possible.

Do-it-yourself technology for insulating facades with polystyrene foam

Like any work related to surface insulation, it all begins with preparing and cleaning the wall from dirt and any excess mortar. Protruding reinforcement elements and simply protrusions, which are not an architectural solution, can interfere. When all excess has been removed, it is necessary to seal all cracks and crevices and prime the surface.

When preparation is completed, it is necessary to install vertical sags. The easiest way to do this is with nylon cords, fixed in increments of 0.5-0.7 m. With their help, you can see if there are dips or bulges on the wall and, if necessary, add more glue. Sometimes you have to slightly change the shape of the slab using a special grater.

Helpful advice! To ensure that the final result looks aesthetically pleasing, check each laid element using a building level.

The technology of facade insulation with penoplex provides that the elements are fastened to a special glue mixture. It is prepared according to the instructions that come with it. It is important to use the prepared amount of solution within 1.5 hours if the ambient temperature is not too high. In hot weather, this period is reduced to 40-60 minutes.

Glue is applied to the slab along the edges, as well as in five places in the middle, regardless of the thickness of the penoplex chosen for insulating the walls. This ensures its reliable fastening to the wall surface. If you need to fix the thermal insulation material perfectly flat surface, then it is best to use a comb spatula to apply the solution.

If you need to lay not one, but two layers of polystyrene foam, the installation should be done in such a way that the seams do not coincide. In addition, you will need to seal all the cracks between the slabs using small pieces of the same material or its liquid form. It is not recommended to use polyurethane foam for this purpose. And if there are any discrepancies between the elements in the places where they should touch, then this can be eliminated using the same grater.

Finally, mechanical fixation of the insulation boards is also carried out to eliminate the risk of their detachment from the surface. At the rate of 5-6 fasteners per sheet, they are secured using disc-shaped dowels.

Technology of insulating a wooden house with polyurethane foam

Unlike expanded polystyrene, mineral wool and other popular insulation materials, the technology of spraying polyurethane foam involves a very complex procedure associated with the use expensive equipment. The thing is that in order for the coating to have the desired characteristics and be resistant to external factors, the mixture of solution components must be supplied under very high pressure.

Related article:

The main materials used for vapor barriers, their pros and cons. Features of installing vapor barriers inside and outside a wooden house.

However, such conditions are fully justified by the fact that the service life of such insulation is from 30 to 50 years. In addition, by choosing this option, you can provide your home not only with heat retention, but also with excellent sound insulation, which no other material used for insulation can boast of.

Another quality of polyurethane foam is its ability to take any shape, which makes it convenient to apply to the relief surfaces of walls and beams.

True, it will most likely not be possible to do all the work yourself, since purchasing expensive equipment is more than justified. It is much more rational to invite specialists for this.

Application of polyurethane foam to the external walls of the house is carried out as follows:

• at the agreed time, a team of professionals arrives at your home in a minibus, inside which is everything necessary equipment, as well as the components necessary for preparing the mixture;
• hoses are pulled to the places where spraying will be carried out, through which the finished mixture is supplied;
• an even layer of polyurethane foam is applied to the prepared wall surface;
• after hardening, all excess is removed and cleaned.

Like any other insulation, polyurethane foam lends itself perfectly to finishing. Using a reinforcing mesh, you can later apply plaster on top. And if you prepare the frame in advance, it is possible to cover it with siding.

Technology of insulating facades with foam plastic: features of fastening the material

Attaching foam elements to the wall is a task that requires attention if a choice is made in favor of this material. You should start by installing vertical canopies made of cord, which will help you position the first element evenly.

According to the technology of insulating a house with foam plastic from the outside, fastening is carried out using a special glue, which is applied to the foam element along the edges, as well as at five points inside. This ensures reliable fixation of the element. Thus, all the insulation is attached. And in order to provide additional strength, you can also use plastic dowels to secure the sheets with them.

The technology for insulating walls outside with polystyrene foam with your own hands is one of the simplest and most familiar, since this material is often used for a variety of construction work and everyone, one way or another, has come across it in everyday life. So the main task is to correctly select the thickness of the foam for insulating the walls outside a wooden house and securely fasten the material.

Obviously, it is impossible to lay the sheets in such a way as to avoid cracks and gaps. Therefore, they need to be sealed using. The next stage is plastering the surface and laying reinforced mesh. This will protect the wall from the destructive influence of external factors. However, one layer will not be enough; it is necessary to apply at least two layers of regular and one decorative plaster to give the building an aesthetic appearance.

How to insulate a log house yourself from the outside

Rigid tile materials are best suited for insulating timber houses, as they have sufficient density and are not subject to shrinkage over time. It is also important to choose the correct thickness of the insulation. So, for example, for walls 20 cm thick, a layer of thin material - 5 cm is enough. And if we are talking about insulating a house made of 150x150 timber from the outside, then it is better to give preference to insulating material 10 cm thick.

It is worth starting work by treating the surfaces with mastic, which repels water. After this, you need to install a wooden frame that will hold the insulation and become the basis for fixing the finishing material.

Helpful advice! All elements wooden frame It is imperative to treat it with antiseptic agents that prevent rotting and protect the wood from moisture.

For insulating a house made of timber, basalt wool is best suited, which is attached to the surface of the walls using self-tapping screws. Fasteners should be placed at the rate of 4-6 pieces per 1 m². A diffusion membrane must be laid on top, which acts as a waterproofing agent.

5 cm thick slats are nailed to the wooden frame. Their task is to create a ventilation gap that will not allow moisture to accumulate. And the finishing material is already attached to the slats themselves.

The cost of insulating a façade with different materials can vary greatly. Much depends on how serious the production of a particular insulation requires. And sometimes you have to take into account the need to purchase additional materials, for example, steam and waterproofing layers, if necessary.

For example, the price for facade insulation using polystyrene foam will be about 1600-2000 rubles per 1 m². But this is only if all the work is performed by a professional. If you do everything yourself, you can save a lot, because the cost of the most ordinary sheets does not exceed 30 rubles, although it happens that you need a more durable and thick material.

Insulation of the foundation slab: is it necessary?

Another way to insulate a house is to use modern materials to finish the foundation slab, which, like walls, often becomes a source of building freezing and over time can begin to collapse under the influence of external factors.
For many, the need to insulate the foundation slab is also justified by the opportunity to save significantly in the future, spending 1.5-2 times less resources on heating the house.

However, simply purchasing and attaching insulation will not be enough. It is necessary to ensure the full functioning of the system by considering a method for removing moisture and preventing the development of fungi, mold, and corrosive processes inside. This requires precise engineering calculations that will allow the point to be placed outside the contour of the main part of the building.

In addition, one cannot ignore such a phenomenon as soil heaving, which is typical for winter period and can create significant pressure on building elements located in the ground. Therefore, among the tasks that are set for the insulating material for the foundation slab is also protection from this kind of mechanical influences.

Restoration and insulation using Swedish technology: features of the method

Insulation of foundation slabs Swedish technology– one of the best foreign technologies that became available in our area not so long ago. Let's consider what are the advantages of this method and what are its main technologies:

• the methodology proposes the creation of a single robust construction, consisting of reinforced cast concrete equipped with stiffeners. Installation is carried out on special pillow, which is surrounded on all sides by polystyrene foam slabs;

• sand is poured under the bottom of the insulation, as well as on the sides of it;
• installation of a special system for collecting and discharging water into the drainage is provided;
• in order to reduce the load on drainage system, a blind area is provided;
• Inside the house, a heated floor system will be provided, which is built into the foundation at the stage of its construction.

It is interesting that in Sweden this technology has been used for more than half a century, but in Russia it began to be used no more than 10 years ago. But even during this short period, some features of this technology became obvious:

• This method is excellent for the construction of one-story and two-story houses. But if we are talking about the construction of tall buildings, then it will be necessary a large number of settlements, as well as permission from all official authorities;
• Even at the design stage, care must be taken to eliminate the risk of flooding of the building. For this purpose, sand bedding of the required height is installed. The necessary parameters can be determined by taking into account those statistical data that are considered official for a particular region;

• should be considered individual characteristics the area where construction is taking place and based on available data, use standard or enhanced drainage and waterproofing systems;
• if construction is to be done on soils in which sand predominates, then there is no need to install a water drainage system;
• as in all other cases when it comes to working with concrete, it is recommended to carry out all work in the warm season, since low temperatures significantly increase the risk that the resulting structure will not be strong enough in the end;
• Even if a team of specialists is involved in the work, the implementation of this technology takes time. This usually takes 3 to 4 weeks.

Interesting to know! Provided that all insulation work is carried out with high quality and a “warm floor” system is in place, even if the heating is completely turned off, the heat in the house will be maintained for 72 hours.

Choosing the right material for insulating the foundation slab

When deciding to use Swedish technology, you need to understand that not all materials that we are used to using as insulation are suitable for its implementation. First of all, let's look at those that are absolutely not suitable for this purpose:

1. Mineral wool and all its analogues. Not having sufficient rigidity and strength, they are also prone to absorbing water, which is unacceptable in such operating conditions.
2. Expanded clay and other granular materials. Their main problem is their inability to form a dense layer around the foundation, which causes them to leak moisture.
3. Foam polymers, which are created directly on construction sites. And although in this case there is no clear prohibition, such technology requires enormous experience and complex, expensive equipment. Although even the presence of these factors still cannot guarantee success.

Based on all of the above, it becomes obvious that the ideal option for insulating the foundation of a house from the outside is polystyrene foam. Its characteristics fully comply with all the requirements for the material to solve all the tasks.

Among these properties it is worth noting the following:

• the standard dimensions of each slab greatly facilitate the process of laying them, allowing calculations to be made based on available data, and ensuring high-quality and even joints;
• some manufacturers produce slabs equipped with special grooves on the sides, which additionally ensures the tightness of each joint;
• the material is very durable and absolutely impermeable to moisture;
• high thermal insulation properties allow for high-quality insulation without laying many layers of material or one, but too thick. One layer of slabs of standard thickness will be sufficient.

You can also insulate the blind area with extruded polystyrene foam, which will further reduce the overall heat loss of the building through the foundation and provide additional savings.

Technology of foundation insulation with extruded polystyrene foam

The process of insulating a foundation slab consists of several stages. Let's look at each of them, paying attention to the nuances of the work, as well as the difficulties that may arise during the installation process.

To carry out this type of work, the use of penoplex with a thickness of 10 cm is considered quite sufficient. The only requirement is that the material must be of high quality and purchased from a reputable manufacturer.

Helpful advice! When purchasing any building materials, including polystyrene foam boards, it is better to ask the seller for a certificate for the products offered. Before making a purchase, you must ensure that the product meets all specified standards.

Site preparation involves assessing the existing geological features of the site, as well as the type of soil that will have to be worked with. When digging a hole for the foundation, care must be taken to ensure that the bottom is as level as possible. To do this, at the final stage it is recommended to dig the hole manually.

A layer of sand is poured into the bottom of the pit, which must be compacted. Then temporary formwork is installed and the first layer of concrete is poured. At this stage, the use of any elements for reinforcement has not yet been provided.

After the first layer of concrete has hardened, polyurethane foam slabs are laid on top, which are placed in two layers in checkerboard pattern. All joints and seams must be sealed to eliminate the possibility of moisture getting into them. All this is covered on top with a layer of durable polyethylene film, laying it overlapping and carefully sealing the joints with tape.

All that remains is to fill the main part of the foundation, which requires the presence of reinforcing elements and is carried out in accordance with standard technology. After the concrete has completely hardened, polystyrene foam slabs are attached to all end parts using a special adhesive composition.

As you can see, the technology for insulating the foundation with extruded polystyrene foam is not too complicated if you familiarize yourself in advance with all the requirements for materials, as well as the procedure for carrying out the work.

The fact that external insulation of wooden houses is significantly more effective than internal insulation has been proven in practice more than once. Although much, of course, depends on the correct selection of thermal insulation material, and on compliance with all technology requirements. Fortunately, modern market is quite rich and is able to offer customers a wide selection of materials for thermal insulation of wooden houses.

Before you insulate wooden house outside, you need to choose all the materials wisely. A wooden building has its own characteristics. The first thing to remember is why wood continues to be so popular. There are several reasons for this:

• good thermal performance;
• ensuring a comfortable microclimate in the building;
• environmental friendliness;
• safety;
• ability to pass air (wood “breathes”).

The insulation of a wooden house from the outside should be chosen so that all materials do not reduce the beneficial properties of wood. But sometimes this can be difficult to do. To choose a good insulating material, you will need to spend your time and study basic information on the issue.

Pie wall

Before insulating a wooden house from the outside, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the composition of the wall. After this, you can begin to select all the necessary materials. The technology for insulating a wooden house from the outside requires the following layers:

• vapor barrier;
• insulation;
• waterproofing;
• external cladding.

Vapor barrier and waterproofing are required to protect the material from moisture. Many types of thermal insulation are destroyed or cease to perform their function when exposed to water.

Choice of insulation

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house from the outside? The most popular materials on construction market become:

• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• extruded polystyrene foam or Penoplex.

Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages that need to be considered before deciding how and with what to insulate your own home.

Styrofoam

Insulating a wooden house from the outside with your own hands in this case will be the cheapest option. It can be bought almost everywhere. There are different types depending on the strength. Polystyrene foam has good thermal insulation properties, but the disadvantages include:

• flammability;
• low strength;
• instability to mechanical damage.

Insulation for the walls of a wooden house of this type is not recommended for one reason: foam plastic practically does not allow air to pass through.

This means that all the beneficial properties of wood, for which it is so valued as a material for building cottages, come to naught. Insulating a wooden house with polystyrene foam is a rather pointless procedure. Yes, the room will be warm, but the temperature and humidity conditions will be disrupted due to lack of ventilation. Natural air exchange in the room is blocked, arrangement is required or air conditioning systems. Both options involve additional (and not small) costs, both during the construction process and during the operation of the building.

Also, polystyrene foam needs careful protection from moisture. Manufacturers claim that insulating wooden walls with foam does not absorb water, but this is not true. The polystyrene balls themselves are resistant to moisture, but it can accumulate in the space between them. Freezing water expands. The well-known law of physics does not apply here: water is the only substance that increases in volume as the temperature rises.

As water expands inside the material, pressure increases. This will eventually cause the foam to disintegrate into individual balls in the first or second winter. To replace external insulation you will have to put in a lot of effort and spend money.

Extruded polystyrene foam

To insulate the walls of a wooden house from the outside, you can consider using Penoplex. It is the closest relative of polystyrene foam, but lacks most of its disadvantages.

First of all, insulating wooden houses with such material is more durable. Penoplex is resistant to stress and mechanical damage. The second positive property is moisture resistance. The material is not afraid of moisture. This insulation for walls and ceilings can be used even without vapor barrier and waterproofing.
The advantages also include:

• high energy efficiency;
• ease of installation;
• ease of processing;
• safety and environmental friendliness.

It is not recommended to use Penoplex for outside houses, but it will be an ideal option for floors. This material is not afraid of stress. It's enough to do it on top cement screed thickness 30-50 mm. Can be used both for the floor of the first floor and for the attic floor. Also very often, polystyrene foam is purchased for insulating floors on the ground.

Mineral wool

What insulation is best to protect the walls of a building? The answer here will be clear. Both for an old wooden house and for a new one the best option will become mineral wool. It not only allows you to preserve the beneficial properties of wood, but also smoothes out its shortcomings.

If you insulate the outside walls of a wooden house with mineral wool, you can prevent fire. The bulk of materials from this group are non-flammable. This property distinguishes cotton wool from polystyrene foam and penoplex.

Insulating walls in a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool conducts air well. When using it, there is no need to resort to additional ventilation measures: with the right choice of finishing material, the walls will continue to “breathe”. But this very finishing needs to be given special attention, otherwise you can ruin everything at the last stage.

You can insulate the walls of a wooden house using different types material:

Vapor barrier and waterproofing

How to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside? It is important to firmly remember one thing: the vapor barrier is installed from the side warm air, and waterproofing on the cold side. Both external and internal material can be produced in the form of films and membranes. For a wooden building, it is recommended to choose the latter option. The films practically do not allow air to pass through, while the membranes “breathe”.

Before insulating an old wooden house from the outside, it is worth checking the condition of the walls, ceilings and roof, and, if necessary, strengthening them and protecting them from mold and mildew. A set of such measures will extend the service life of the building. Also, the insulated structure must be cleaned of dirt and dust.

Every person dreams of a warm home, so that even in the most severe frosts it would be comfortable to stay indoors. Therefore, the first question that faces the owners of their home is how to insulate the walls from the outside on their own. This is especially true for wooden buildings. In this article we will provide instructions according to which thermal insulation of frame and timber houses outside. And for more clear example you can watch the video.

There is a huge variety thermal insulation materials. Let us dwell on the choice of insulation for wooden houses, which are widely used by consumers.

Stone wool in slabs. This material is easy to cut even with a regular knife. Due to their light weight, the slabs are easy to transport even in a passenger car, especially if you need to insulate a small area. During installation stone wool laid in the gap between the frame posts, and then insulated with vapor barrier material on the inside and waterproofing material on the outside.

Attention! When transporting or installing, do not compress or compact the mats under any circumstances.

Ecowool. This is an environmentally friendly insulation material based on cellulose fibers. Available in slightly compressed packaging. There are two ways to insulate with this material:

• dry. To do this, the packaging with glass wool is opened, the material is kneaded and compacted into the walls. The disadvantage of this method is that over time the fibers can shrink, which will lead to heat loss. However, some manufacturers guarantee that this material will not settle for 10-20 years.
• wet. Ecowool is sprayed onto the walls and adheres to the building frame, so the material does not settle.

Styrofoam. One of the most budgetary types of insulation. This material does not absorb moisture, so it is not necessary to cover it with a moisture-proof membrane. However, when working with polystyrene foam, you need to be as careful as possible, as it can crumble and break.

Attention! As insulation, you need to purchase unpressed sheets of polystyrene foam.

Polyurethane foam. It is sold in the form of two-component substances that begin to foam when applied to walls when exposed to air. In operation, this material is similar to polyurethane foam. They fill the voids in the wall, and cut off the excess. The result is a monolithic layer of insulation that completely eliminates heat loss. Polyurethane foam has moisture-repellent properties.

Natural insulation. These include slabs made of sawdust or a mixture of clay and straw. Such materials are environmentally friendly and inexpensive, but their main disadvantage is the complexity of manufacturing. Flax fiber also natural insulation. It has antiseptic properties, preventing the formation of fungus and mold. It is easy to cut, install, does not cause allergies and is moisture resistant.

What is the best way to insulate walls?

The key to quality repairs is a well-thought-out work plan. Therefore, it is worth considering in advance how you will insulate the walls: from the inside or the outside. Internal insulation is rarely used, because because of it, the size of the rooms is significantly reduced. In addition, experts do not recommend insulating wooden houses in this way, because moisture will penetrate into the wood, from the street side. Because of this, mold and mildew may appear inside the structure, and the wood itself will begin to rot. In addition, it is necessary to buy a material that will match the properties of wood. Flax fiber is suitable for this, soft look Fiberboard, basalt and fiberglass materials.

With the external method of thermal insulation, a uniform layer of insulation is formed for the free escape of vapors. The insulation is less dense than wood, which causes steam to escape through the ventilation gap. The external method of thermal insulation is an ideal option for those who want to insulate old houses made of timber, which have lost their “marketable appearance” over time; after covering they will look like new. However, if you insulate the walls incorrectly, the wood will begin to deteriorate, and under the layer of exterior finishing, you will not be able to control the condition of the wood.

Insulating the walls of a frame house with mineral wool

Thermal insulation of a frame house begins with waterproofing. For this you can use glassine - cheap, but efficient material. It is cut into strips and stapled to the frame of the house, in increments of no more than 12 cm. Glassine sheets are glued with an overlap of up to 10 cm to protect the insulation from condensation.

Advice! If the frame of the house is covered with siding, then a distance of 30-50 mm should remain between it and the insulated facade so that moisture does not linger in the frame.

Then we lay a layer of insulation. Mineral wool is an excellent option for wall insulation. She doesn't call allergic reactions, has low flammability and high thermal conductivity; such slabs can be easily cut with a construction knife. The installation process is simple; first, measure the distances between the posts and add 5 cm on each side for allowances. We cut out the sheets of the required size and lay them on the waterproofing. We cover the joints between the frame and the insulation with a strip of mineral wool 3-4 cm wide.

We lay a layer of vapor barrier on top, for this we use penophenol. It needs to be shot to the building frame using a construction stapler. Penophenol is laid horizontally, leaving 5 cm joints with the foil part facing out. After this, we cover the walls of the house with edged boards or siding.

Insulating the walls of a frame house with foam plastic

In order to secure the foam to the wall, we first install vertical canopies made of cord. Then glue is applied to the foam sheets, along the edges and at five points inside, and fixed to the wall. This is how all the insulation is laid. Next you need to seal the cracks polyurethane foam. For additional strength, we fix the sheets with plastic dowels.

Attention! Polystyrene foam does not absorb moisture, so additional insulation is not needed in this case.

The outside walls need to be plastered, and before that you need to install reinforced mesh. The putty will help protect the structure from the influence of external factors, but it should be applied in two layers. After the surface has dried, you can apply a finishing layer of decorative plaster.

Insulating the walls of a timber house

External insulation of houses made of timber should be done with slab materials; they are more rigid and do not shrink over time. If you prefer basalt or fiberglass insulation, then you need to choose the right thickness. If the house is made of 15 cm timber, then the thickness of the heat insulator is 10 cm, and if the timber is 20 cm, then you can take a thinner material - 5 cm.

To begin with, the surface of the house is coated with waterproof mastic. Then a vertical wooden frame is installed, which must be coated with an antiseptic to prevent rotting. Then they attach it to basalt wool using self-tapping screws or umbrella dowels, 4-6 fasteners per 1 sq.m of insulation. A diffusion membrane is laid on top as a waterproofing agent. We nail 5 cm thick slats on top of the wooden frame, which will create a ventilation gap to remove moisture. Then we nail the profiles to the slats and install the siding, starting from the bottom, checking the horizontal installation with a level.

Thus, the choice of insulation depends on your personal preferences. And deciding whether to do internal or external thermal insulation depends on how the finishing will be done external walls. Well, if you want to ensure that even the most severe frosts do not bring you inconvenience, you can insulate the walls both inside and outside.

Insulating a house with mineral wool: video

Tree, as a construction material, characterized by low heat transfer. If you build the walls of a building in compliance with all technological standards, then additional insulation for the house will not be required. But another situation occurs more often - the walls of the home are cold, and the temperature inside the room is quite low. In this case it is required insulation of the facade of a wooden house. The procedure is implemented in several ways and using various building materials, which will be discussed in more detail below.

Figure 1. Facade of a wooden house.

Energy costs are constantly rising, and many owners of wooden houses are striving to reduce heating costs. And if there is demand, then there will be supply, so now manufacturers produce a wide range of different thermal insulation materials, each of which has both strengths and weaknesses. Do-it-yourself home decoration is a real task, but its implementation requires experience. If skills are not enough and a high-quality result is required, it is recommended to contact specialists. Let's find out which materials are best suited for home insulation.

Expanded polystyrene

This material is a low-flammable and self-extinguishing insulation material. By itself, it practically does not burn, but if another burning material is located nearby, the foam will begin to melt and release harmful gases. It is not recommended to insulate the external walls of wooden houses with it.

Expanded polystyrene thermal insulation, of course, is suitable, but it is better for insulating “wet” facades of a wooden house made of timber or logs. The material is made as follows: the granules are heated, they increase in volume, after which they are connected with an adhesive composition or under the influence of temperature.

The most popular brand of expanded polystyrene for external insulation is PSB-S-25, which has a thickness of 100 mm. If we consider the thermal insulation qualities, the material is similar to 50 cm brickwork. At the same time, sufficient vapor permeability is ensured - at wooden walls Moisture will not accumulate at home, serving as a favorable environment for the development of microorganisms. Expanded polystyrene often replaced polyurethane foam– more modern material, which is suitable for insulating complex geometric objects.

Mineral wool

This material is often available in the form mineral mats or slabs. For its manufacture, silicate alloys of rocks or sedimentary rocks are used, which are pressed.

Users highlight this material as one of the best for insulating wooden houses for the following reasons:

• it is not flammable (can withstand temperatures up to +600 degrees Celsius);
• does not undergo deformation during operation;
• characterized by high chemical resistance;
• mineral wool is a medium that is not afraid of rodents and insects.

Both domestic and foreign companies are involved in the production of the material, therefore specifications and sizes vary. And yet, there are certain disadvantages of mineral wool - it contains carcinogenic components, and the connecting substance is phenol mondehyde resin, that is, not the safest elements.

Slag wool

This material acts as a cheap alternative to glass wool. If you pay attention to the name, it becomes clear that the insulation is made from metallurgical waste.

The only advantage of slag wool is its low cost. And even the price does not make it popular, due to the large list of negative qualities.

Disadvantages of slag wool for external and internal insulation walls:

• melts at a temperature of +300 degrees Celsius, losing performance;
• low thermal conductivity coefficient;
• service life – no more than 10 years;
• high hygroscopicity - having absorbed a lot of moisture, the effectiveness of the material disappears;
• when paired with some other materials, a reaction begins that causes structures and utility networks to rust;
• fragility.

It seems that the use of slag wool is economical profitable solution, but professionals do not recommend it for external insulation due to significant disadvantages.

Glass wool

This is a type of mineral wool that has almost similar technical characteristics. The basis for its production is the waste generated during glass production. At the moment, glass wool for home insulation is not very popular, despite its availability and good thermal protection parameters.

Glass wool produced in mats is considered denser and stronger. It is suitable for both insulation and wind protection. Glass wool can be easily installed between the bars battens.

The low popularity of insulation is explained by the complexity installation work and fragility. In addition, it contains harmful components, which makes it non-ecological.

Ecowool

Ecowool is not only an insulating, but also a sound-proofing material, which is applied by spraying. It is made from recycled cellulose, to which borax and boric acid are additionally added (non-toxic and non-volatile components). Appearance insulation – gray powder.

This is an environmentally friendly material, without synthetic compounds, petroleum products and other elements in the composition that can release harmful substances. Ecowool, as noted earlier, is applied to the surface and fills all the pores and holes, resulting in the formation of a monolithic structure without joints.

Borax and boric acid added to ecowool are excellent antiseptics that prevent the development of biological life forms in the insulation. An important advantage of the material for insulating wooden houses is its non-flammability. Ecowool smolders, but does not ignite with an open flame.

Styrofoam

It is also called ordinary polystyrene foam - a material with low thermal conductivity, but absorbs moisture, which is considered a key disadvantage. Of course, they are insulated wooden buildings, but with additional waterproofing. In addition, the material easily deteriorates under external influences, requiring protection from soil pressure. To do this, it is covered from the outside with brickwork or quartz sand, which increases the final cost of insulation work. A more modern analogue of polystyrene foam is extruded polystyrene foam.

If you choose foam or extruded expanded polystyrene, preference is given to the second option, which is produced in the form of durable, frost-resistant slabs with low thermal conductivity. Its advantages also include low moisture permeability.

Penoplex

This is the name given to boards made from cellular polystyrene. It has a low percentage of moisture absorption and high heat saving. It is environmentally friendly and does not rot, however, organic solvents spoil its structure.

There are 4 types of material: foundation, wall, roof and comfort. Additionally, there is a particularly dense type of penoplex, which is used in industry. When insulating a wooden house with this material, you should strictly follow the technology. Namely, between insulation boards and the wall must leave a ventilation space. Therefore, the first step is to install a wooden sheathing, and only then penoplex. The final touch - installation siding or lining.

Windproof boards Izoplat

Plates Isoplat is the most effective and reliable way insulation. For their production, coniferous wood fiber is taken. No glue or chemical binders are added to the composition. This allows the material not to shrink and “work” throughout its entire service life, which reaches 50 years.

Important! The popularity of the slabs is explained by the ease of installation, naturalness and high class of insulation. 12 mm of material is comparable to 44 mm of solid wood. In addition, Isoplast is a “breathable” material, so when installing insulation there is no need to lay additional vapor barrier layer and worries about protection against fungus.

Installing the slabs is simple, and you can do it yourself without involving specialists. It is enough to press the material against the wall and hammer it in with nails, and then install a ventilated façade on top of it. However, compared to classic insulation materials, Izoplat slabs are more expensive.

Insulation with brickwork

Home construction, however, like house insulation– important tasks that require a responsible approach. Advances in technology give users the opportunity to choose from a variety of materials and approaches. So, often as frame insulation brickwork is used. This method has its own characteristics.

Brickwork itself is one of the options for cladding the structure. With its help, the appearance of the house is updated and it looks more respectable. The procedure is simple, but expensive - the wooden structure is insulated from the outside with brickwork. This method allows you to retain heat as much as possible and protect your home. It is important to leave approximately 25 cm between the brick and the house itself, which is enough for ventilation. Otherwise, the wood will begin to rot and rot over time.

Why is there a need for additional wall insulation?

If you follow all technological standards during the construction of a wooden house, it will not require additional insulation. If professional skills are not enough, then it will be difficult to adhere to all these rules.

In what situations is insulation required:

1. The walls are not thick enough. Some residents, trying to save money, use wooden materials small section. In such a house it will not be as comfortable as we would like, and savings will not be achieved, since the room will have to be heated better.
2. Blowing out the house. This point is explained by the unevenly distributed inter-crown insulation. For example, if a house made of timber is poorly caulked, then the temperature inside will often be insufficient.
3. Warped logs through which heat escapes. Wood – natural material, which can deform during drying, which is difficult to take into account during construction.
4. Shrinkage. During the first years after construction, wooden houses are almost always ventilated until the structure shrinks.
5. Uncalibrated materials are used. Often the logs are of inappropriate thickness compared to the joints of the crown, resulting in the formation of gaps through which heat escapes.

For this reason it is so often used thermal insulation external layer wooden house, that is, when the finished facade is insulated outside.

General arrangement of external insulation of a wooden house

If we consider the issue as a whole, then high-quality thermal insulation, in which condensation does not appear on the walls and insulation, is done using a ventilated facade. The materials used are different, but the design takes on the appearance of a “layer cake”.

The “pie” includes the following elements:

• load-bearing wooden wall;
• frame for insulation;
• thermal insulation and fasteners for it;
• windproof film or plate;
• lathing for external finishing;
• exterior finishing.

As noted earlier, a ventilation gap is created between the insulation and the finishing, which prevents condensation and dampness from appearing on the walls.

How to determine the required insulation thickness

The thickness of the insulation material depends on how thick the walls of the house are and what the average winter temperatures of the region in which it is built are. Often the heat-insulating layer is installed in 2 layers: the first – 100 mm, the second – 50 mm. The thickness can always be “increased”, but for this purpose additional lathing is fixed.

For determining insulation technologies and the required thickness of the insulation, there is a special formula: P = R*k, from which R is the coefficient of thermal resistance, and k is the thermal conductivity parameter of the insulation. There are more complex formulas and even calculators specifically designed for this purpose, which indicates the importance of the task. If the calculations are made incorrectly, then many problems are subsequently leveled out.

Tools for work

In addition to the insulation itself, a waterproofing film and a hydro- and windproof membrane, you will also need other tools.

What you need to prepare for insulation work:

1. Wooden block. With its help, the lathing and counter-lattice are installed.
2. Fasteners. This includes the screws necessary for assembling the frame and attaching the insulation. Additionally, a rondole is useful - a special washer used in conjunction with self-tapping screws.
3. Screwdriver. They tighten the fasteners and drill holes.
4. Wood saw. When assembling the frame, you will have to cut a lot of wood.
5. Knife for cutting insulation. The best option– a knife with a blade width of 25 mm.
6. Measuring instruments. To control the plane, a tape measure, level and construction cord are used.
7. Construction stapler. Needed to secure films.

These materials and tools are sufficient to carry out the work, but the list may vary depending on the insulation technology and the insulation materials used.

During the work, it is additionally recommended to insulate the foundation of the building. It is better to do this before you start insulating the external walls - the foundation is processed in advance, after which it is sheathed with felt or jute tow. Before starting to insulate the walls, it is recommended to apply an antiseptic to their surface for protective purposes.

All work related to insulation is best carried out in the summer, when the weather is dry and warm. If the structure is recently built, you need to wait 1 to 1.5 years, during which it shrinks.

All cracks in the structure must be caulked. In the summer, it is not difficult to find them - a lit candle is brought to the surface of the walls and if the flame “plays”, it means that the place is being ventilated. Tow, hemp or jute are suitable for filling cracks.

Curtain facade

It is also called ventilated, and it is considered the most in a modern way insulate the house. This design includes: frame, insulation and exterior finishing. It is mounted in such a way that there is a free ventilated space between the outer cladding and the insulation.

Materials

Concerning building materials, there are a lot of them, and which one is better or worse is discussed above.

During the work, the following tools are used:

1. Measuring equipment. It is recommended to use a rotary laser level and building level.
2. Hammer for preparing holes.
3. Bolt gun for installing façade anchors.
4. Impactless drill for installation of cladding elements.
5. Riveting tool - with its help the profiles are fixed to the bracket.
6. Tools for cutting and bending metal.
7. Clamps for securing the guides.

It is better to prepare all this in advance.

Facade preparation

At this stage the following tasks are solved:

1. The boundaries of construction work are indicated.
2. Scaffolding assembly.
3. Assessment of wall curvature. If the differences are no more than 90 mm, then the walls do not need to be leveled.
4. The façade is examined to determine the required insulation thickness and permissible load.
5. The surface is marked. First, horizontal (along the base) and vertical (along the edges of the wall) lines are set using a level. Mark the intermediate points where the fastening brackets will be located.

Insulation of wooden at home is not an easy task, involving several stages.

Vapor barrier and waterproofing

If the thermal insulation layer becomes saturated with moisture, it will lose its properties. For this reason, a vapor barrier material is installed on the inside of the facade, which regulates the passage of moisture. WITH outside a waterproof and windproof membrane is installed that allows moisture to pass out, but is itself waterproof from the outside. Its secondary task is to protect the insulation from blowing.

Installation of insulation frame

Brackets are installed at pre-designated points where the frame will be attached. For this purpose, take a drill and drill a hole in the wall for the anchor. Before inserting the bracket into it, the hole is cleared of debris and dust. The length of the element itself should be similar to the thickness of the insulation. A paronite gasket must be installed under each bracket to prevent heat loss.

Frame covering

Insulation cladding related to finishing the facade of a private home - the final task of installing a ventilated facade. A frame is placed on top of the insulating layer on the brackets. This method creates an air gap. The installation work itself is carried out using self-tapping screws. The facade system must be flat, so adjustment of the guides will be required. On top of them are placed elements for fastening the cladding - profiles, clamps or slides. The cladding is done from bottom to top, in rows.

Wet facade

This method has been relevant in Russia since the 70s of the last century. The design itself, like the previous analogue, is a “pie” of the following elements:

1. Thermal insulation in the form of glued to the walls thermal insulation layer - insulation. This layer is the main one.
2. A reinforcing layer necessary to ensure the strength characteristics of the cladding. Additionally facilitates the plastering procedure.
3. A protective layer that protects the insulation from external influences.
4. Decorative layer. With their help, the exterior of the house is given characteristic visual properties.

Each layer is assembled from various materials described above.

Preparation of materials

In order to carry out all construction work efficiently, it is recommended to use high quality tools and materials.

For arrangement wet facade you will need:

1. Base profile. Its width should be the same as that of the insulation. Fixed with dowel nails.
2. Primer. It will be needed to prepare the walls for the façade. Additionally, the type of primer that is applied to plastered surfaces will be useful, which will be done before decorating the surface.
3. Mushroom shaped dowels. They attach the insulation.
4. Glue. Used to create a thermal insulation layer. Selected depending on the insulation used.
5. Insulation. often assembled using mineral wool.
6. Plaster composition. It creates a protective and reinforced outer layer.
7. Reinforcement mesh. Typically, fiberglass construction is selected, distributed in roll form.
8. Decorative plaster. Thanks to it, a beautiful and bright appearance of the facade is obtained.
9. Facade paint.

The modern market offers kits that contain everything necessary materials and tools for arranging a wet facade. This is a convenient and profitable solution, but the components are not always suitable for a particular home.

Vapor barrier

When arranging a wet facade, it is recommended to lay vapor barrier films. It's about about multifunctional protective membranes that are mounted under various cladding. The task of such films is to screen moisture and condensation, while allowing air to pass through so that the walls have the opportunity to “breathe”. The material is placed between the mineral wool and the finishing material. Vapor barrier during house shrinkage does not move or deteriorate due to its high strength, reliably protecting the heat insulator from atmospheric influences.

Waterproofing

Before proceeding with the installation of a wet facade, the surface of the walls must first be carefully prepared and waterproofed, this is especially important in the base area. It is applied along the walls between the insulation and putty. Often wood is treated with special protective compounds and lay fiberglass. The functional task of waterproofing is to protect the walls of a building from the effects of rain, snow, and, in general, moisture.

Wall insulation

The main insulating material when installing a wet facade is mineral wool. This is a material with low specific gravity that can be mounted on any foundation and does not require additional reinforcement. Mineral wool is also characterized good property absorb noise. During its installation, a large amount of glue will be required, since the plates are attached to the coated surface. In the places where it is produced installation of electrical wiring, markings will be required so as not to damage the elements during laying of the slabs. It will take up to 3 days for the glue to dry completely. Adhesion is achieved in 1 day, after which, for additional strengthening, umbrella dowels are driven in.

Reinforcement

A reinforced base is necessary to securely secure the finishing layer. The material used is an alkali-resistant mesh with a fiberglass base and a special coating. It is installed on the glue, completely embedded in it. An ordinary mesh is not suitable without additional processing - it will lose its reinforcing properties after just a year of operation.

Reinforcement of walls is allowed 1-3 days after installation of thermal insulation. At this stage the following is done:

1. Window and door openings, joints and horizontal lintels, and external corners are processed. For this, an angle profile is used.
2. Apply a layer of 2-3 mm of glue to the insulation.
3. A fiberglass reinforcing mesh is embedded in the glue.
4. Additionally, an adhesive composition up to 2 mm thick is applied.

The next stage is finishing the walls.

Application of decorative plaster

It is permissible to begin this task no earlier than the reinforcing layer has dried. On average, you will have to wait from 3 to 7 days. Finishing refers to the application of decorative plaster to the reinforcing layer.

The following requirements apply to plaster:

• high vapor permeability;
• resistance to moisture and weathering;
• resistance to mechanical damage.

It is important to comply temperature conditions during work: from +5 to +30 degrees Celsius. The applied layer should not be exposed to sunlight.

Painting

This is the final stage of installing a wet facade. Painting not only transforms the appearance of the building, but also performs a protective function, protecting the walls from damage, moisture and rust. The facades are painted simply, which is done independently using a regular brush or spray gun.

Oil, acrylate paints or antiseptics are suitable for painting a wooden house. The advantage of the latter option is its high penetrating ability, reaching 7 mm. After painting the applied material must be allowed to dry. It is recommended to apply 2 layers and renew them every 6-10 years.

Conclusion

If you approach the issue of insulating a wooden house wisely, in compliance with all standards and technologies, it will turn out cozy and warm, providing comfortable living. As you can see, all the work is done independently, without the involvement of specialists, but it is important to correctly select the materials used. If you want to get a modern and high-quality home, it is recommended to pay attention to systems " smart House» , which are suitable for wooden structures.