wearing mustaches in the 19th century by civilians and got the best answer
Answer from And you don't know... how?)[guru]
“Here you will find a wonderful mustache, indescribable by no pen, by no brush, a mustache to which the better half of life is dedicated, an object of long vigils during the day and night, a mustache on which the most delicious perfumes and aromas have poured out and which have anointed all the most precious and rare varieties of lipsticks, mustaches that are wrapped at night with thin vellum paper, mustaches ... which are envied by those passing by.
N. V. Gogol "Nevsky Prospekt".
Peter I introduced a special tax on beards, thereby banishing the signs of Russian conservatism from public consciousness.
The Eastern Church declared the shaving of beards a pagan custom. In 1551, at a meeting of the church council, the Russian clergy declared that "without a beard one cannot enter the kingdom of heaven."
During the time of Elizabeth Petrovna, there was a dictate of Paris in the field of fashion. The Empress, giving preference to everything French, continued to collect taxes for wearing a beard.
Only Catherine II, having ascended the throne in 1762, abolished the duty, but with a caveat: government officials, military and courtiers had to leave their faces “barefoot”.
In the 19th century Russian emperors repeatedly addressed the topic of the beard.
As before, the nobility, officials and students had to shave their beards. Only officers of some military branches were allowed to let go of their mustaches. During the foreign campaign of the Russian army in 1813-1814. many military men acquired this decoration, although since 1812 only hussars and uhlans had the right to wear them. A mustache at that time was considered a non-statutory element, but the authorities looked at it through their fingers, only soldiers, even retired ones, were required to shave their beards.
In the 19th century , following the European fashion, sideburns became popular in Russia, they were called with us: side ears, burds, cheek-bards.
In the reign of Nicholas I, the state again returned to polling beards and mustaches.
With a passion for Byron's work, young people began to appear in high-society salons with some carelessness in their clothes, "an unkempt beard that grew as if by itself, due to the forgetfulness of a grieving martyr" adorned their faces. At this time, the beard is perceived as a challenge to society, disagreement with the desire of the authorities to cut everyone with the same brush. The introduction of rules of court behavior, new uniforms, and even the facial hair of a man, everything was regulated by relevant orders, determined by ministries and departments.
Under Nicholas I, wearing a mustache was the privilege of some military men, while persons of other classes were, of course, forbidden; wearing a beard was allowed only to peasants and persons of free fortunes who had reached a more or less respectable age, and among the young it was recognized as a sign of freethinking. Such elders always looked askance. Officials of all civil departments were required to shave their entire faces smoothly; only those of them who had already risen somewhat in the hierarchical ladder could afford to wear short sideburns near their ears (favoris), and then only with the favorable indulgence of their superiors. (N. P. Vishnyakov)
Nicholas I, and his son Alexander II, wore sideburns and mustaches.
For representatives of the taxable estates, beards and mustaches were a matter of taste. So, a merchant and a peasant on the street could always be recognized by a bushy beard.
In the 1880-1890s. the fashion for beards and mustaches returns, most men, including government officials, along with sideburns also wear a beard, the attitude towards which has become more loyal.
The question of the beard since the 18th century. was constantly the subject of state decrees, Emperor Nicholas II completed this list, by personal example, like his father, Alexander III, who proved that a beard and mustache are a tribute to Russian traditions and customs.
In 1901, Junkers were allowed to wear beards.
In different human cultures that existed in different eras of the development of civilization, there were and are different traditions regarding the wearing of a beard. These traditions may be associated with the religious or social beliefs of mankind.
No matter how varied the reasons for growing a beard may be, it has always been believed that if a man has grown a beard, then he is ripe at least in order to openly express his beliefs. Growing a beard is hard, it takes patience. Even more patience requires caring for her. A beard is a subject of male pride.
Since ancient times, the beard has been a sign of masculinity, wisdom, strength and power. For a man whose beard was shaved, this was a disgrace. The beard was worn by the prophets, kings, apostles, patriarchs and even Jesus Christ himself.
The beard as a symbol has always been given great importance, history from antiquity to the present day has unfolded not around the economy, as Marx said, but around the beard. Ecumenical councils passed decrees on barbering, taxes were taken for wearing beards. There were times when it was dangerous for a man to walk around with a beard, and they could be executed for it. At other times, a similar effect was caused by the appearance of people without a beard.
ANCIENT WORLD
Initially, intended by nature for warming especially sensitive areas of the skin of the cheeks and chin, in the middle of the 1st millennium BC. the beard has become a means of adornment of the male face.
Among nomads, the beard has always been held in equal esteem. In Mesopotamia, a millennium BC, the Assyrians wore luxurious beards and used curling irons to create layered models.
The entire Ancient East, from the foothills of the Pamirs to the Sahara, was seized with a passion for wearing beards of impressive size. The length of the beard corresponded to the rank of the official. Ordinary Persian soldiers who opposed the phalanxes of Alexander the Great had beards up to the collarbone, high-ranking dignitaries covered their entire chest with hair. A similar fashion previously existed in Greece. The Spartans respected the beard so much that shaving it off was a punishment for the worst sin - cowardice.
ANCIENT EGYPT
In ancient Egypt, only the pharaoh had the right to wear a beard (as a sign of his ownership of the land), but his beard was artificial. All other men of Ancient Egypt were required to shave their beards.
The Egyptian pharaohs were considered the earthly incarnation of the god Horus and could only be men, so the female pharaoh Hatshepsut had to wear men's clothing and a fake beard during official ceremonies.
A false beard, like a wig, was made of wool or cut hair intertwined with gold threads and tied to the chin with a cord. This ceremonial beard could be shaped in different forms, but the most common was a pigtail, turned up at the end, similar to a cat's tail.
ANCIENT GREECE
In ancient Greece, a beard testified to a love of wisdom and philosophy. In ancient times, the Greeks had the shape of a beard as a sign of belonging to one or another philosophical school.
barbering
And suddenly people began to shave. It also happened in Ancient Greece. According to the legends, she did not grow up with the great conqueror Alexander the Great.
Alexander the Great
Without a beard, Alexander the Great ordered his soldiers to cut their beards, so that opponents could not grab onto it in battle. What tricks the great commander did not go to to hide his natural feature. Thus, thanks to Alexander the Great, the fashion for eternally young “youthful faces” spread in the ancient world. In ancient Greek society, growing a beard meant putting an end to the state in which a boy could legally become the object of sexual claims from elders. The presence of a beard was a criterion for dividing the participants in the Games into junior and senior. Only scientists and philosophers were allowed to wear a beard in Athens.
ANCIENT ROME
From Greece, the fashion for a “barefoot” face migrated to Ancient Rome. The first to organize a haircut was the Roman Emperor Nero.
Roman Emperor Nero
Youth, energy, liveliness, will, and not at all the burden of years, were valued by the citizens of these first republics in the history of Western European civilization. In the Roman Empire, a shaved face and a short haircut were among the signs of civilization and distinguished the Roman from the "wild" peoples. The ancient Romans generally considered bearded men to be barbarians.
ANCIENT ISRAEL
In ancient Israel, the question of whether or not to wear a beard at all was not even raised. It was believed that shaving a beard was unnatural. The fact is that in ancient times, in biblical times, Israel was surrounded by pagans, among whom all sorts of perversions were common - homosexuality, lesbianism, bestiality, human sacrifice, and other abominations. These peoples gradually degenerated and disappeared.
Therefore, the law of Moses provided for the death penalty for homosexuals, and a strict prohibition for men to wear women's clothes and shave their beards. Just like women wear men's.
Jews generally wore short hair (1 Cor. 11:14; Ezek. 44:20); the exception was Nazirites those who did not cut their hair according to a vow (Num. 6:5,9; Acts 18-18), or some individuals, such as Absalom (2 Sam. 14:26). The Nazarite vow included three important aspects - not to cut hair, not to drink wine, not to touch the dead.
The Bible also tells of Samson, who did not cut his hair and was strong and invincible until his hair was cut off (Book of Judges, chapter 17, verses 17-19).
BYZANTIUM
With the fall of the Roman Empire, the fashion for shaved faces also passed. The end of this tradition was put in the 2nd century by the Roman emperor Hadrian (76-138 AD), who used a beard to hide the flaws of his face.
Roman Emperor Hadrian
At the beginning of the 4th century, the attitude towards the beard changed again. Emperor Constantine the Great, who made Christianity equal among other religions of the Roman Empire, made barbering a duty. The Christians followed the imperial decree. The absence of a beard began to distinguish them from the bearded pagans and Jews.
Emperor Constantine the Great
But after the iconoclastic disputes of the 7th-9th centuries, the tradition of wearing beards reasserted itself.
From Byzantium, the fashion for beards came to Eastern Europe along with the adoption of Christianity. She was conceived as a reflection in the human face of God's face.
EUROPE
It is known that in the West, in Europe, many representatives of the Germanic tribes wore a beard. The Franks, on the other hand, were shaved. The rulers of the Carolingian dynasty, including Charlemagne, did not wear beards either. (on the miniatures of the 9th century, men constantly depict mustaches with a clean-shaven chin).
In France and central Europe, a wide beard came into fashion only at the turn of the millennium. According to written sources, it was easy to recognize a layman from a church clergyman by his clothes, beard and other signs of worldly life.
Christian Europe of the Middle Ages wore beards, although in their wearing, haircuts and hairstyles, the whims of fickle fashion were observed. At the beginning of the 11th century, all emperors are depicted with a beard, although of different lengths. So the German king Henry III was depicted on his gospels with a long full beard, on seals - with a short beard, and on some miniatures only with a mustache. An interesting fact is that Bishop Le Puy encouraged the Crusader soldiers besieging Antioch to shave their beards, fearing that in battle they could be confused with the enemy. And another bishop, Serlon of Seez, complained to the king that the laity did not shave their beards "for fear that their short stubble would prick their mistresses during kisses."
In the 12th century, in France and England, shaving of the beard, but leaving the mustache, spread at the court. According to the coronation rite, "emperors must be shaved" when the Pope kisses the emperor on the forehead, cheek and mouth. Why the custom of shaving the beard spread precisely in the 12th century is not exactly known. Perhaps this was due to the increased opposition to the Eastern Church, where there was a tradition of wearing a beard.
Shaving of beards and mustaches is introduced in civilized Europe simultaneously with the revival of classicism - in the Renaissance, i.e. The "bearded" Middle Ages was replaced by the "shaving" Renaissance, with its bare Protestantism.
In the following period, most of the men again had rich beards and long mustaches.
With the advent of the Baroque era, the beard fell out of fashion, from about 1680 the mustache also disappeared, and until the middle of the 19th century, the model of a clean-shaven male face completely prevailed.
After the revolution of 1848 in Europe, mustaches and beards again became a mass phenomenon.
From the second quarter of the 20th century, the opposite process took place: shaved faces became dominant in the appearance of men.
The alternation of periods of shaving and hairiness of male faces as a mass phenomenon of male fashion and male preferences can be considered in connection with a change in the male ideal prevailing in a given historical period. In an era dominated by the ideal of a masculine man, mustaches and beards are in fashion, since they are always perceived as the natural and most striking signs and symbols of masculinity.
Arrival of King Francis I in Italy in 1526
On the contrary, with the beginning of the transition of public consciousness to the feminine ideal of a man, the faces of men become shaved, male secondary sexual characteristics in the form of facial hair are removed. The prevailing trends are always typical of the general population, regardless of profession or social status. But there are always social strata that preserve the independence and continuity of the tradition of their appearance.
Among famous Europeans, beards were worn by: Francis I, Henry VIII, Charles IX, Karl Marx, Friedrich Engels, Victor Hugo, Charles Darwin, Claude Monet, Giuseppe Verdi, Jules Verne and others.
ANCIENT Rus'
Northern Slavs wore and honored beards from time immemorial, long before the adoption of Christianity. In Rus', it was believed that every man should have a beard, because. she was a sign of masculinity, wisdom and strength. They gave her a lot of attention, protected her, looked after her. It got to the point that if a person had an ugly tattered beard, then he was considered an inferior person. There was no worse insult than a spit in the beard.
True, some experts believe that South Slavic, pagan Rus (including Kievan Rus) was beardless, and its representatives were named "Khokhlov" (pointing to the difference between Ukrainians, Little Russians and Great Russians), and the Slavs of northern Rus' always grew their beards and were "katsapami"(corrupted word: yak tsap, i.e. goat)- To a shaved Ukrainian, a bearded Russian seemed like a goat. Scientists explain this difference between shaved Slavs and bearded simply by the climatic conditions of our country - in the north it is traditionally cold and the beard protects the face, and in the south it is hot.
The custom of wearing a beard did not have a religious cult among us until the 10th century. The beard was worn and honored without the participation of church authority. But since the tenth century, Rus' has been baptized. Following the example of the Byzantine clergy, in Rus' they accept the apology of the beard, pointing to the ancient biblical prophets and Christ with the apostles. Those. it so happened that the Orthodox Church further approved the folk tradition of wearing a beard and sanctified this custom, as a result of which the beard becomes a symbol of both the Russian faith and Russian nationality.
Like a real shrine, the beard was protected by the state. So, Yaroslav the Wise established a fine for damaging a beard. The old Russian princes, wanting to offend the ambassador, ordered him to shave his beard.
Even Ivan the Terrible used to say that shaving a beard is a sin that will not wash away the blood of all great martyrs. Previously, priests in Rus' refused to bless the beardless. And Patriarch Adrian said this: "God created man with a beard: only cats and dogs do not have it."
In "Russkaya Pravda" for "perspiring" a beard or mustache, in other words, for causing damage to them, a particularly high fine was due - 12 hryvnia - only three times less than the fine for killing a person.
The reason for cases of shaving the beard was often Sodomy or simply fornication, so shaving was expressly forbidden. The condemnation of shaving a beard and mustache was caused, in addition to adherence to antiquity, also by the fact that shaving beards and mustaches was associated with the vice of sodomy, the desire to give one's face a feminine appearance.
During the Time of Troubles and in the 17th century, shaving the beard was considered a Western custom and was associated with Catholicism. For example, False Dmitry I shaved. His lack of a beard was seen as a betrayal of the Orthodox faith and proof of imposture. When, during the time of Tsar Fyodor Alekseevich, the tendency to shave increased among the Russian boyars, the patriarch said in response to this: “Barbering is not only ugliness and dishonor, but a mortal sin.” By the way, in the Middle Ages, the belief was entrenched that if you meet a beardless man, then he is a rogue and a deceiver.
Peter's reforms
Peter I
Permanent wearing of a beard in Rus' was canceled only by Peter I. As you know, Tsar Peter decided to make Russia look like Holland or Germany in everything. Russian clothes and a beard were not to his liking. Returning in 1698 from a trip abroad to Moscow, the next day, at the solemn reception of the boyars in Preobrazhensky, Peter began to cut boyar beards and shorten long caftans. Barbering and wearing German dress were made compulsory.
Peter I issued a decree according to which he ordered everyone to shave (!) beards and wear (!) German dresses. On the chopping block, the tsar personally chopped the beards of the boyars with an ax.
Shaving a beard went against the traditional Orthodox ideas about male beauty and an image worthy of a person, so the innovation caused massive disapproval and protests. Peter I arranged the persecution of dissenters and up to the death penalty for disobedience to shave his beard. Our ancestors had to fight not for life, but to the death. Uprisings were raised throughout Siberia, which were subsequently suppressed by the troops. For rebellions and disobedience to the king, people were hanged, quartered, wheeled, burned at the stake and impaled.
As a result, seeing such resistance among the people, Peter I in 1705 replaced his law with another one “On shaving beards and mustaches of all ranks to people, except for priests and deacons, on taking duties from those who do not want to fulfill it, and on extradition to those who paid duty of signs ”, according to which a special fee was levied from men wearing a beard, and those who paid it were issued a specially minted bond - a beard sign.
Only Catherine II canceled the fee with a caveat: government officials, military and courtiers had to leave their faces “barefoot”.
In 1863, Alexander II abolished the "beard" bans.
Post-Petrine period
The question of the beard has been constantly the subject of state decrees since the 18th century. Emperor Alexander III put an end to this issue, by personal example, like his son Nicholas II, who proved that a beard and mustache are a tribute to Russian traditions and customs.
Since the time of Peter I, who planted in Russia customs alien to Orthodoxy, barbering has become so ingrained in Russia that today wearing a beard causes misunderstanding and disapproval. Often a person who maintains a Christian image may not be hired, requiring that he first shave. Given this sad circumstance, the spiritual fathers instruct Christians not to follow the whims of this world, but to be afraid of angering the Lord.
Due to the variety of beard types, it will not be difficult for a modern man to choose a model that will optimally match the features of his face and organically complement the overall style. Now the fashion for beards is free from conservatism and open to experimentation. But, nevertheless, there are classic types of haircuts, which are a stylistic guide and a starting point for the most daring experiments. In our experienced masters will select the shape of the beard that is best for you.
Three day stubble
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Stylish and bohemian look with the illusion of carelessness. The key word in this case is "with illusion". The line between sexual unshaven and untidy neglect is very thin. Such a beard requires careful care and constant maintenance: the hair on the cheekbones should be neatly trimmed, as well as on the neck.
The model that is most popular among modern men, largely due to the maximum of its naturalness and minimal control. Moreover, according to one study, these beards are preferred by most women.
The stubble covers the upper lip, chin, cheeks and neck. The optimal length is formed in 10-15 days. A short full beard makes it possible, without a doubt, to give the image of masculinity and maturity.
Once upon a time, wearing a long full beard was the prerogative of people of advanced age, now this model remains available for men of all age groups. A beard goes well with both a frilly hipster style and a strict classic look without any frills.
Evening beard
Ultra short beard. In fact, this is a one- or two-day stubble 0.5 - 1 mm long, with neatly shaved cheekbones and neck.
Goatee
This popular style consists of a mustache that goes down, surrounds the mouth and forms an elongated bun at the chin. The length of the beard itself can vary as desired.
Van Dyck
Model named after the Flemish painter Anthony van Dyck. An artist at the court of the English king Charles I introduced the fashion for wearing a curled mustache and a straight beard. Following the painter, such a model began to be worn first in England, and then throughout Europe. Now the name "French beard" is also assigned to it.
Mush
A small tuft of hair under the lower lip. The name comes from the French La mouche - a fly. The model became popular in Europe during the Baroque era (XVI and XVII centuries), in the circles of court youth. A small tuft of hair under the lower lip was neatly cut in the shape of a triangle, less often a crescent or a rectangle, often complemented by a small mustache.
Anchor
Anchor-shaped model. This is a variant of a short cut beard, slightly lengthening towards the chin, and thus forming a pointed end. The model is complemented by a strip of hair under the lip. A classic combination is an anchor beard and a pencil mustache.
Balbo
Today, few people will remember Italo Balbo, the military and political leader of Italy during the Mussolini era, but many people know the model of the beard he wore. In general terms, this is a variation of the anchor, but with longer bristles and a wide strip under the lower lip.
Brett or Hollywood beard
A model that became a popular trend in the 30s with the light hand of American actors. This is a beard of medium length, covering the chin and lower jaw, but not closing with sideburns.
Beard in the style of Nicholas II
A wedge-shaped beard combined with a thick, slightly curled mustache. The fashionable canon of the early 20th century was revived by the hipster culture 100 years later, at the beginning of the 21st century.
